EAGLE 2 INSTRUCTIONS Welcome to the sport of Radio Control flying! Congratulations on selecting the Mark II Eagle--today’s top trainer and all around sport model. Many new improvements make the Mark II even easier to build and fly than past versions of the Eagle. It may seem a bit early to speak of flying, but your successful first flight begins right here. Before starting assembly, please read carefully through this instruction booklet.
ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE THIS KIT 1 RADIO GUIDANCE SYSTEMS (3 to 4-CHANNEL REQUIRED) 1 .29 to .45 2-CYCLE OR .40 to .60 4-CYCLE R/C ENGINE NECESSARY TOOLS AND SUPPLIES. MISCELLANEOUS RUBBER BANDS, PLUS A BOX OF #64 RUBBER BANDS WAXED PAPER PROPELLER, FUEL TANK & TUBING TO SUIT ENGINE MODELING KNIFE AND RAZOR BLADES 1 2-1/4” CGP SNAP-ON SPINNER 1 2-1/4” WHEEL* SANDPAPER (ASSORTED GRITS, INCLUDING COARSE (80), MEDIUM (150) AND FINE (220-320) 2 2-1/2” WHEELS* SANDING BLOCK 1 2 OZ.
SELECTING RADIO CONTROL EQUIPMENT Your model was designed to use three or four- channel radio control equipment. In flight, the model is primarily controlled by using the ailerons and elevator (see sketch at left). One radio channel controls the ailerons. This is the primary turn control - it rolls the model. Another channel operates the elevator which controls pitch (climbing, level flight and descent). The third channel is for the engine throttle and controls the engine speed.
ENGINE, PROPELLER & ACCESSORIES Your plane flies well using any 2-cycle engine size from .35 to .45, or 4-cycle engine .45 to .61. The numbers .35 to .45 refer to the amount of space the piston moves through inside the cylinder of the engine. This space is called displacement; larger displacement generally means more power. If you live in a hot climate, or your flying field is approximately 3,000 feet or more above sea level, you should stay with a .45 engine.
INTRODUCTION HOW TO USE THE PLAN USING THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL The plan is used in several ways. The wings, stabilizer, and fin are assembled directly over the plan. Each wood part is matched over its corresponding location printed on the plan and pinned in place. To prevent ruining your plan from gluing your wings, etc. to it, cover the area you are working on with waxed paper. The paper the plan is printed on can expand or contract slightly with changes in temperature or humidity.
ADHESIVES The EAGLE II was designed for fast assembly using SUPER JET™ glue, which is a specially formulated cyanoacrylate adhesive CA that can firmly glue the plywood, hardwood, and balsa used in your model. WARNING Never use water THIN type CA glue for general construction of your model, especially for gluing plywood and hardwood parts. Thin CA's do not adequately bond these areas.
NOTE: In this kit version, D/C Sheets 5601, 5603, 5605, 5608 & 5609 have been replaced with D/C Sheet 5611, 5612 & 5613 (shown below) WOOD PARTS ABOUT THE WOOD IN THE KIT Be careful when removing parts (such as fuselage sides) from the die-cut sheets. Long parts are fragile until Super Jeted into a structural unit. If necessary, use a razor knife or razor saw to assist in the removal of parts from the sheet. Sometimes a little trimming and sanding can improve parts where desired.
TAIL ASSEMBLY 3. Make stab leading edge (LE.) from 1/4" x 1/2" balsa sticks. Cut balsa carefully to match with plan at center joint. Pin in position and glue to L.E. Joiner. Make stab T.E. from 1/4" x 1/2" balsa. Cut to match length shown on plan and glue to T.E. joiner. Complete stab outline by gluing die-cut balsa stab tips in place. 1. Set your flat warp-free pinning board on work bench. Tape Eagle plan so stabilizer (stab) is in position over pinning board.
Place elevator on top of T.E. and transfer hinge locations to elevator. 5. 6. Position balsa elevator against stab T.E. and mark elevator ends for match with stab tips. 7. Assemble the fin in the same manner as stab. Let dry. Cut elevator at marks to match stabilizer tips. 8. Mark hinge locations on fin and rudder. 9. Using the CG Center-Line Marker provided, mark center lines along edges of parts as shown. Tilt marker so guide pegs touch the wood, then lightly pass the marker back and forth.
Use your CG Hinge Marker to mark the center of the wood surfaces to be joined. Carefully cut a slot approximately 1/2” deep and slightly wider than the hinge, using your favorite knife blade. After all slots have been made, mark the center of your hinge and insert a pin (see illus.) This will hold the hinge in place while sliding the matching part (aileron, etc.) onto the JET HINGE.
ASSEMBLING DIE-CUT BEVELING TOOLS (FROM 1/8” PLY) Wide Strip Narrow Strip 14a. First glue narrow strip to handle, keeping them square, as shown. Then glue wide strip to handle and narrow strip, again keeping things square. 15. Tape T.E. of elevator and rudder to work surface. Using appropriate beveling tool, sand LE. to center line. Turn parts over and repeat beveling for other side. “EA” Tool used for elevator (Later used for Ailerons 14b.
WING ASSEMBLY IMPORTANT! READ THIS BEFORE STARTING ASSEMBLY YOUR EAGLE'S WING CAN BE BUILT TWO WAYS Select The Wing That Fits Your Radio and Flying Requirements. "A" or "B" WING "C" WING For 4-CHANNEL FLYING For 3-CHANNEL FLYING "A" WING — Aileron Wing for Sport & Training "B" WING - More Aerobatic Aileron Wing High Dihedral Wing for Control Without Ailerons Because the "C" wing has greater dihedral angle, it inherently is more resistant to banking, and more responsive to being turned.
SINCE THE WING IS BUILT IN TWO HALVES, AND STEPS 2 TO 14 ARE REPEATED IN THE PROCESS, TWO CHECK BOXES ARE PROVIDED WITH EACH OF THESE STEPS, ONE FOR THE RIGHT WING HALF AND ONE FOR THE LEFT HALF. THE RIGHT WING HALF IS BUILT FIRST. Do not glue rib no. 2 at this time. Rib scrap wood 3. No notch here 1/8” ply T.E. brace Using no pins, set TRAILING EDGE (T.E.) in place on plan. IMPORTANT: The T.E. has no notch at one end — this unnotched end must be at the wing center as shown.
Flush Flush 7. Hold parts down flat when gluing Glue L.E. sheeting to L.E. and spar. Glue two rear sheeting halves together, and to spar and T.E. 5. Pin end of L.E. and spar in place as shown . Remove rib No. 2 and scrap shims. Slide front bottom sheet forward until it just touches the L.E, and align it with end of L.E. (Note wood grain direction). Gently hold sheet in position and mark spar location on both rear corners of sheet with your knife.
9. A doubled rib is necessary at the wing tip so that when you cover the wing, the tip rib won't bend. Glue two No. 4 ribs together: apply SUPER JET to one rib, stand them next to each other to check alignment, then press together. Do not glue any new ribs to the L.E. at this time. 12. 10. Glue double thickness rib No, 4 in place at wing tip, gluing to spar and T.E. only. Hold rib straight up until it sets. Working a few ribs at a time, apply SUPER JET to glue loose ribs to L.E. Gently squeeze LE.
15. With left wing still pinned down, position RIGHT WING in place next to it. Raise RIGHT WING tip and support it at 4th rib in from tip using dihedral gauges. NOTE: gauge ends are stamped, "A," "B" and "C." For "A" wing, gauge end "A" must be up. For "B" wing, remove shaded area of gauge (as shown at left). For "C" wing, gauge end "C" must be up. WEBS MUST BE INSTALLED BETWEEN ALL RIBS REFER TO PLAN FOR ALL WEB LOCATIONS. 13b.
Position “T2” stamp near spar. 18. 20. Apply two ribbons of SUPER JET to one side of both joiners, near the top and bottom, Position one end of joiner in place and swing the other end up against spars — hold momentarily. Repeat for other joiner — immediately reinstall clamps (from step 16) to hold both joiners tight on spars. Remove all clamps, etc. Try top sheeting in place, trimming to fit as required. Match edge of sheeting with center of rib No. 1. Glue in place.
24. 23a. Place wing over plan and mark T.E. for nylon aileron bearing locations. Using a razor knife, cut slot through T.E. center-line for each bearing glue tab. Cut 1-1/4" off wing tip end of ailerons, and glue to T.E. flush with end of T.E. as shown above. IMPORTANT: IN THE NEXT STEPS THE WING MUST BE TURNED BOTTOM SIDE UP. Cut a clearance slot 1/2" from center joint in wing T.E. and 1/2" from inner ends of T.E. inboard sections.
So ailerons don’t fit tight after everything gets covered, gently sand both ends of aileron. The clearance is correct when you can fit each aileron in place with a piece of matchbook cover (about 1/32") at both ends. Place TE. on plan and mark hinge locations (three hinges per wing half). Transfer hinge locations to ailerons. 18 26. Temporarily fit ailerons in wing with hinges, checking for hinge alignment. 27. Using beveling tool "EA", bevel front edge of aileron to centerline.
28. 29. 30. Glue one end of 2½" wide nylon fabric to scrap wood. Let dry until the nylon is glued solidly to the balsa. 31. Apply a line of SUPER JET at center joint on wing bottom and stick one end of 2½" wide nylon to it. Let dry until the nylon is glued solidly to the balsa. 32. Apply a squiggle of glue to wing and pull nylon fabric into it. Rub nylon into glue with your finger (cover finger with plastic bag or similar). Lightly sand plastic wing tips to remove burrs from precut edges.
35. 33. Carefully position servo 1/2" behind bottom spar and mark size for opening. Repeat gluing procedure and apply nylon around L.E., across top of wing, around T.E. and finally overlapping where you started on wing bottom. After entire center joint has been wrapped with nylon, apply another coat of glue and force it down through the nylon. Let dry thoroughly. THIS COMPLETES THE "C" WING ASSEMBLY THE SERVO RAILS SHOWN IN THESE PHOTOS HAVE BEEN REPLACED WITH THE PLY MOUNTING TRAY (STEP 34).
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY 1. 2. 3. Carefully remove all fuselage (fuse) parts from die-cut plywood sheets. Lightly sand any rough edges. 3b. From 1/8"x1/2"x18" balsa, cut and glue strips to match formers as shown. Apply strips as shown. Note: Former "C" strip at bottom only. 4. Be sure sides are laid down left & right as shown.
5b. To prevent oil penetration, seal area around four holes as follows. Apply a bead of SUPER JET and smear it into the wood with your finger wrapped in plastic bag. Nose Doubler Flush Align Holes Engine Bearer SMALL TRIANGLE SHAPED PIECES SHOWN ABOVE HAVE BEEN ELIMiNATED FROM THE KIT, THEY ARE NOT NEEDED 6. Glue nose doublets to body sides, making sure to flush pans as shown Glue engine bearers solidly to fuse sides and edge of nose doublers (longest edge to be glued to fuse side).
7c. 8a. Keep edges aligned as you close plates and tape flanges together. Squeeze plates together using clamps. When dry, remove tapes and clamps. Set aside. 8c. insert top sheet under rubber band at former C, and work it towards tail, slipping it under bands as you go. 8d. Lock tabs at both ends of top sheet into corresponding notches in fuse sides. Position stab platform between fuse ends, and hold parts in place with rubber bands.
9. 10. Place fuse over TOP VIEW on plan sheet. Viewing from above, carefully align the fuse to match plan outline. If an area of the fuse is off, adjust that portion in the direction required. When satisfied with alignment, permanently glue sides, formers, and sheet parts in place. Apply a bead of SUPER JET along all joints inside and outside, or from both sides in the case of farmers — it will penetrate the joint and leave a slight reinforcing fillet. 24 11.
14. Remove hatch cover from fuse. Refer to plan for correct placement of ply tongue, then glue tongue to hatch cover. Try in place. Glue dashboard top to hatch supports and dashboard. 12b. 13. Tape hatch supports to both sides. 15. Place the landing gear (L.G.) mount on inside bottom of fuse. The cutouts at each end of mount must be positioned evenly over the slot in the fuse bottom, Glue mount in place. 16. The L.G. braces interlock with L.G. mount. Glue braces solidly to fuse sides and L.G. mount.
ENGINE INSTALLATION AND FUSE COMPLETION For clarity, the engine installation is shown in many small steps rather than a few general ones, It is not difficult — just thoroughly explained. NOTE: 4-Cycle engine installations are shown on next page. 1. Mount propeller and spinner (if used) on your engine. 2. Tape breakaway plate on engine bearers. IMPORTANT: The cut-out in the breakaway plate is purposely cut on an angle, The letter "R" on the breakaway must be on the Plight side as shown.
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28 4a. Mark straight down through engine mounting holes onto breakaway plate. 4b. Remove engine and breakaway plate from fuse. Drill four 1/8" holes through breakaway at engine mounting hole locations (place scrap ply under parts when drilling to avoid splintering.) 5. Permanently install four blindnuts in bottom of break away using socket head screws (and washers) to pull blindnuts up into the screw holes as shown . Remove screws after seating blindnuts. 6a.
6b. Tape breakaway plate in position. At one of the locations marked in step 6a, drill a 1/8" hole straight down through it and engine bearer. Insert a #4-40 x 3/4" soc. head screw through hole. 6c. Continue this procedure, one hole and screw at a time, until all four screws are in place. 7. 8. Remove breakaway from fuse. Position hatch cover on fuse. Press hold-down against front of firewall and up against bottom of hatch cover as shown. "Straight action" end should point towards fuse bottom.
10a. Temporarily install wing hold-down dowels in fuse. Rubber band wing in place on fuse, making sure it is centered. Viewing model from rear, see if stab sets level with respect to wing. Sand stab platform area as may be necessary to provide a good level fit for stab. Do not alter the die-cut angle of the fuse sides. Center stab on fuse, measuring to obtain equal distance from side to side, and from nose of fuse to rear corner of each stab tip ( see dimension "C" in Final Assembly section). Pin in place.
13a. From the threaded end of two 10" rods, measure and cut one of the rods to 7" and the other rod to 4½". 13b. At cut end of rods, bend down about 1/4" making a square hook. 13c. Using the threaded end of a rod, file a slight recess 1" long at one end of each 5/16" square x 24" balsa pushrod . Drill a 1/16" diameter hole 1/4" deep at end of recess in both pushrods. Glue rods into balsa pushrods as shown.
CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS BOLT-ON WING OPTION Materials not included; Two 1/4"x 20 nylon wing bolts (CG #585) 1/4" dia x 3" wood dowel Two 1/2" x 5/8" x 2" hardwood blocks (fuselage mounting) Two 5/8" x1"x 1-5/8" balsa blocks (wing filler block) One 1/4x20 tap Klett Safety Driver (CG#610) NOTE: A Bolt-On wing looks neat and clean, but is more likely to be damaged in a crash than a rubber-banded wing.
FUSELAGE PROCEDURE 1. Position and glue two hardwood mounting blocks securely inside the fuselage as shown using Epoxy or Super Jet. Glue them well, these glue joints must be strong. 2. Drill a 1/4" diameter hole through former "B". Locate hole by holding drill up against bottom edge of cabin top doubler and then drill through former at a slight angle so hole matches downwards slant of dowel. 3.
ELECTRIC POWER OPTION ELECTRIC flying is clean and quiet. There is no messy engine exhaust oil so your model stays clean. The items below are available from Astro Flight Inc.
As the motor uses battery power the batteries will become warm. Cooling air enters through the firewall openings and exits the fuse tail end. In flight, this air movement will help cool the batteries.
OPTIONAL FLOAT INSTALLATION FLOATS make any large pond or lake your runway. Water flying adds a new dimension to your flying fun. CG Super Floats are recommended because they are easy to build and perform well. Floats can be added at a later time with little modification to your model. Superfloats(CG#296) Two 5/32" dia. x 36" wires (for struts) Finishing materials (see float instructions) CG "SUPER FLOATS.
GENERAL. Any irregularities in the wood surface will show on the covering, so a good covering job should be preceded by careful sanding, filling of nicks and dents [we recommend CGM Model Mate™ balsa filler), and then more sanding. For this final sanding, use fine sandpaper (240-320 grade) and a sanding block. The easiest way to finish your model is to cover it in one color of UltraCote and then apply trim in a second color, using either UltraCote or sticky-back UltraCote plus.
For best results, a darker color should go over a lighter one. Smaller designs should be positioned and tacked in place at one end. Then, work the iron down the rest of the design, smoothing out the design as you go. Larger designs (such as sunbursts) should be positioned and the widest end tacked down first. Then, working towards the narrow end, iron the design down.
COVERING THE TAIL COVERING THE FUSELAGE Following the same procedure as with the wing, cover the stabilizer/elevator and the fin/rudder. After covering over the hinge holes, immediately go back and slit the covering to open the holes where the hinges will be installed. For added realism, the cabin interior may be painted now. Use any of the paint materials recommended on the inside front cover of this book; even gray auto primer will do. Then proceed with covering the fuselage.
WINDSHIELD CAUTION: FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY FLASHING 1) CAREFULLY REMOVE FLASHING AT BOTTOM OF WINDSHIELD SIDES. 2) TRIM SCRAP FROM FRONT OF WINDSHIELD BY CUTTING ON MARKED LINE. Apply covering first to the bottom and then to the sides of the fuse. Cover the top of the fuse last. 3) MAKE TWO VERTICAL CUTS AT MARKED LINES. 4) OPEN SACK SLIGHTLY, INSERT SCISSOR BLADE HALF WAY AND CUT ON LINE. REMOVE SCISSORS AND FINISH CUT FROM OTHER SIDE. ROUND OFF BOTTOM CORNER OF WIND SHIELD AT MASKED LINES.
SIDE WINDOWS Glue windshield in place, taking care to keep glue only on the edge of the plastic. After the SUPER JET has dried, a trace of white film may appear inside the windshield. Wipe off with a damp cloth. WINDOW GLUING FLANGE (SHOWN SHADED) Optional: Improve the appearance and strength by applying a strip of UltraStripe to the joint between the fuse and the windshield. Lightly sand window-gluing flange, in order to promote a good bond to fuse. Avoid scratching windows.
Insert formed wire maingear struts in fuse. Position nylon landing gear straps; then mark, drill, and mount with #2 x 5/16" screws (see sketches above and illustration on page 10). Press one of the four steel collars into the pocket in the nylon steering arm (side holes must be aligned). Thread #6-32 x 3/16" socket head screw in a few turns. Install nosegear strut in bearing and steering arm (refer to illustration on page 10). Tighten socket head screw with Alien wrench.
TREAT YOUR RADIO RIGHT - AND IT WILL DO THE SAME FOR YOU! by Hal deBolt Famous R/C Pioneer Today's RC systems are very well engineered and constructed. However, they will remain only as good as the way in which they are USED. Experience has shown us how to use them to perfection. Follow the proper rules religiously, and anyone can have success. CONNECTORS: In using connectors, never pull on the wires to disconnect; grasp the plugs instead. Clean them by dunking in solvent; dope thinner is fine.
RADIO PREPARATION & INSTALLATION 1. Before continuing, make sure each of the following items has been completed: Set RC airborne equipment temporarily in fuse (refer to plan for approximate location). a) Battery most forward. b) Receiver (Rx) next. c) Servos rearmost. d) For "A" or 'B" wing, install aileron servo in wing. Model is fully covered and painted wherever necessary. Control surfaces are hinged in place. Tail assembly is glued solidly to fuselage.
3. Radio Installation. YOUR TRANSMITTER (Tx) IS BUILT LIKE ONE OF THOSE SHOWN HERE. EACH SKETCH SHOWS HOW THE STICKS ARE MOVED TO CONTROL VARIOUS PARTS OF THE MODEL. A. Read and follow the instructions that came with your radio. B. If your batteries are dry cells, they should be fresh. If rechargeable nicads, they should be fully charged, C. Hook-up Radio and Try Operation. Refer to "Transmitter Function Sketch" below, and observe which servo wheels move when stick is moved for various controls.
4. Servo Arrangement. With throttle servo at forward position, place servo so output wheel is on same side as engine throttle arm. Rudder servo should be on side opposite to throttle servo so it can drive the nosegear steering arm in a nearly straight line. "REVERSE" SERVO CAN BE IDENTIFIED BY A DOT IN MOUNTING FLANGE AS SHOWN HERE, OR A DIFFERENT COLOR CASE OR MARKINGS. In radio sets without "servo reversing" feature, the rudder servo is usually a "reverse" servo.
6. Mounting The Control Horns and Pushrods. Rudder Horn (Small): Refer to fuse side view on plan for correct location. Tack-cement small horn on correct side of rudder. Drill through holes in horn, and mount nut plate on other side using screws as shown. Trim screws flush with nut plate. Remove covering from die-cut hole in fuse top (adjacent to dorsal fin) for rudder pushrod. Lay pushrod over pushrod views on plan, and make bends as required.
7. Mounting Servos Tape front end of rudder and elevator push rods up out of the way under cabin top doublers. Glue two ply braces to bottom of ply servo tray as shown. Insert the soft rubber gram mete into the mounting holes of your servos and tray. Correctly position servos in tray, Mark through the grommets for the location of the mounting screws. Remove the servos. With a 1/16" drill bit, drill holes in tray.
8. Installing The Throttle Pushrod. Screw mini-snap on the extra-long remaining threaded rod. Carefully bend rod to fit curve of throttle pushrod as shown in fuse top view on plan. Cut a 10½" throttle pushrod guide tube from long nylon tube (remainder is steering pushrod guide tube).
10b. Hooking Up Aileron Pushrods ("A" or "B" Wing Only). Re-install aileron servo in wing. Tape ailerons in neutral position (so flat bottom of wing and ailerons are flush). Install horn brackets on aileron horns as shown. Install minisnaps on each 7" True 1/16" threaded rod, then connect minisnaps to horn brackets. Align each rod to its respective hole inservo wheel. Allow additional 5/16" past servo wheel holes, then cut and bend forward end of pushrods, same as elevator pushrod procedure. 11.
14. Setting Control Surfaces. CUT GAUGES FROM PLAN All pushrods must move freely, without binding; adjust il required for smooth operation. When selling control travel, be cautious that no servo is hooked to a control in a manner that prevents the servo wheel from moving through its complete range of rotation. For example, if the throttle servo "buzzes" when moved to "full-throttle" position, the servo still has movement left, but is jammed against the engine's full-throttle limit position.
SETTING UP YOUR ENGINE Do not attempt to fly your model until the engine runs dependably. It should idle without stopping and the transition through alt engine speeds should be smooth. WARNING! The turning propeller can cause serious injury, such as deep cuts. Never reach across the propeller! Avoid wearing loose clothing (such as neckties) or jewelry which could fall into the spinning propeller, Small children should not be allowed near a running engine for these reasons.
FIRST START ENGINE. SLOW SPEED MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT To start engine, first open 1/8 to 1/4 throttle. Prime with 4-6 drops of fuel in carb, attach glow plug and flip prop counterclockwise to start. Or use an electric starter that will spin the prop. Now reduce engine throttle to idle speed. If it will idle, wait for 10 seconds and hit full throttle. —If it speeds up very quick and dies-it's too lean. —If it sputters, hesitates and dies-it is too rich. WHEN ENGINE FIRES.
WHERE TO FLY Fly only in areas sanctioned for R/C and known to be free of radio interference. Ask your hobby dealer or other modelers if there is an R/C flying field that is used by a local R/C club. This is the ideal place to fly. If you don't know of an R/C club nearby, contact the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA), at the address on the front of this booklet, for information on a club in your area.
Check also to see that your nose wheel turns to the right when you give right rudder. Your throttle should open to permit full power when the stick or tab is moved forward or up. Make sure that everything is neatly and firmly in place—engine fastened down, servos snugged down, receiver and battery wrapped in foam rubber, tank properly supported, etc. Prop and spinner must be tight. Nothing should be loose, or unfinished, or unchecked. Receiver antenna must be extended, not coiled up inside the model.
FIRST FLIGHTS INTRODUCTION There is no way to fully explain the principals of flight and the techniques of flying in only a few pages. Entire books have been written about apparently simple subjects as the shape of the wing.
OVERSTRESSING THE AIRFRAME, Even world class aerobatic competition planes tan be overstressed. The Mirage is very strong but can be broken in flight by over-speeding and then jerking the controls. If you find yourself In a steep high-speed dive, immediately switch motor off, level the wings and gently pull the stick back (add up elevator) to recover. SPIRALS. As explained before, as you increase bank angle, you have to add back-stick (or "up") to keep flying level.
So many Tigers, so little time. THE TIGER 2 / TIGER 2 ARF WINGSPAN: WING AREA: FLYING WEIGHT: POWER: 61" 680 SQ." 4.75-5.25 LBS. .40-.46 2-CYCLE .48 4-CYCLE Tiger 2 Kit: $99.99 (Street Price) Tiger 2 ARF: $159.99 (Street Price) Kit includes complete hardware package and canopy. ARF also includes nylon engine mount, wheels, spinner and fuel tank. Tail-dragger accessories not included. WINGSPAN: WING AREA: FLYING WEIGHT: POWER: 70" 855 SQ." 6.5-7.5 LBS. .45-.65 2-CYCLE .65-.80 4-CYCLE Tiger 60 Kit: $109.
