INSTRUCTIONS Welcome to the carefree radio control experience that is Electra. With the flip of a switch you’re flying! No fuel or messy exhaust oil to clean. No adjustments to make on an engine. Electra performs like a thoroughbred but has a stable pony temperament. She is based on the proven and popular Gentle Lady sport sailplane, but has been modified for the higher performance demands of electric flight. Building is easy, but carefully FOLLOW THESE STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS to prevent simple mistakes.
NECESSARY TOOLS AND SUPPLIES ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE KIT MISCELLANEOUS RUBBER BANDS RADIO GUIDANCE SYSTEM (2-CHANNEL MINIMUM) 6 CELL 7.2 VOLT BATTERY PACK 2-OZ.
INTRODUCTION USING THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL The plan also shows the installation of a typical radio, battery and all remaining equipment and hardware needed to complete the model. By referring to the examples shown, you should be able to install your own radio, etc., even if it is not the same as what is shown on the plan. Before you start gluing and sanding, take some time becoming familiar with the plans and looking through this entire Instruction Booklet.
ADHESIVES & GLUING TECHNIQUES The ELECTRA was designed for fast assembly using SUPER JET™ CA (cyanoacrylate adhesive), which is specially formulated to firmly glue the plywood, hardwood, and balsa used in your model and to withstand vibration. However, there are times, such as when you are installing the stabilizer and fin on the fuselage and want more set-up time for careful alignment and positioning, when you should use JET EPOXY™.
In flight, the model is controlled by using the rudder and the elevator (see drawing). One radio channel controls the rudder, which is the primary turn control. It rolls, or "banks" the model. Another channel operates the elevator, which controls the pitch (climbing, level flight, and descent). The third channel is for the motor. The Turbo 550 Motor System is equipped with an in-line fuse.
WOOD PARTS ABOUT THE WOOD IN THE KIT Be careful when removing parts (such as fuselage sides) from the die-cut sheets. Long parts are fragile until Super Jeted into a structural unit. If necessary, use a razor knife or razor saw to assist in the removal of parts from the sheet. Sometimes a little trimming and sanding can improve parts, where desired. Save scrap until the model is completed, in case a part is missing or damaged. Also, scrap is used in some building steps.
DIE-CUT WOOD SHEETS SHEET 4001 WING RIBS 5/64 x 2-7/8” 2 REQ’D. SHEET 4002 WING RIBS 5/64 x 2-7/8” 2 REQ’D. SHEET 4003B FUSELAGE REAR SHEET 4003A FUSE REAR DOUBLER STAB TIPS FUSELAGE FRONT WING/TAIL GUSSETS STAB CENTER PLATFORM DORSAL FIN STAB L.E. JOINER SHEET 4004 5/64 x 2-7/8 x 18” FUSELAGE SIDE DOUBLER FIN BOTTOM SHEET 4006 2 REQ’D. REAR MOTOR MOUNT FORMER C FORMER B 3/16x 2-7/8 x 9-1/2” 1 REQ’D.
GLOSSARY OF MODELING TERMS RETRACTS: devices for extending and retracting the wheels on command ROLL: tilting of the plane as viewed from the front, controlled by the ailerons RUDDER: the moveable vertical tail of the plane, which controls yaw RX: radio receiver, the portion of the radio located inside the fuselage SERVO: the part of the airborne radio system that moves the control surfaces SHEAR WEB: wood sheeting that connects the top and bottom spars to stiffen the wing SHIM: a thin piece of wood inserte
TAIL CONSTRUCTION STAB TIPS WING & TAIL GUSSETS STAB CENTER PLATFORM DORSAL FIN STAB L.E. JOINER FIN BOTTOM 4. Still working over the plan, and using the technique shown above, cut 5/64 x 3/16” balsa sticks to form stab trussing. Trim carefully to size, so that each truss fits in place without forcing. SAVE THE SCRAP MATERIAL! 1. Collect the following items. (4) (1) (3) (1) (1) 3/16 x 3/8 x21” BALSA 1-3/4 SQ. x 21” BALSA 5/64 X 3/16 X 24” BALSA 1/2” SQ.
After gluing the fin and rudder pieces, allow to dry before continuing. 11. Carefully separate the stab from the elevator and the fin from the rudder. Gently sand to remove any rough spots from tack-cementing. TILT CENTERLINE MARKER SO PEGS TOUCH 8. Referring to the plan, mark the hinge locations on the fin T.E.
13. Next, cut 45º slots on each side of each hole to accommodate the hinge webs. NOTE: The CGM hinge slotting kit (Item # 600) is handy for this process. 17. Tape the T.E. of the elevator to the work surface. Using the beveling tool, sand the L.E. to the centerline. Then turn the parts over and bevel the other side. END VIEW THOUGH ELEVATOR SCRAP PLY Repeat this process for the rudder. When finished the pieces should look like the drawing below. WING SHIM 14.
WING CONSTRUCTION IMPORTANT: YOU WILL BE BUILDING A RIGHT AND THEN A LEFT WING. FOLLOW THE STEPS CAREFULLY TO AVOID CONFUSION. D/C SHT. 4001 D/C SHT. 4006 D/C SHT. 4002 D/C SHT. 4010 D/C SHT. 4012 D/C SHT. 4009 D/C SHT. 4008 D/C SHT. 4014 D/C SHT. 4013 1. Collect the following items: (2) D/C SHT. 4001 5/64” Balsa PT. Contains: WING RIBS (2) D/C SHT. 4002 5/64” Balsa PT. Contains: WING RIBS (1) D/C SHT. 4006 WING GUSSETS PT. (1) D/C SHT. 4008 1/16” Ply PT. Contains: POLYHEDRALJOINERS (1) D/C SHT.
REAR SPAR JOINER HAS TAPERED ENDS. 3. Align the notches in the wing trailing edge (T.E) with those shown on the plan. Using no glue, position the four #5 ribs as shown above. Hook each rib over the main spar and then over the rear spar, as you go. DO NOT GLUE THESE RIBS MATCH WING GAUGE POSITIONS TO PLAN NO NOTCH 6. Noting that the rear spar joiner has a tapered end, fit the front and rear spar joiners into position as shown.
Remove the sheet from the wing and, using a metal straight edge, carefully trim the sheeting so that, when the piece is laid flat, it just fits between the L.E. and the spar. Following the same procedure, trim and fit two more sheeting pieces for the bottom center section. 11. Using no glue, set ribs #7, 9,12, and 15 in their respective T.E. notches, hooking them over the spars as you go. Making sure the T.E. and the ribs are correctly aligned over the plan, pin in place.
REMOVABLE TIP OPTION fully groove the spars for the wire and for the brass tube. NOTE: The materials needed to make the wing tip removable are NOT INCLUDED in your kit. Necessary templates for this option are found in the upper right corner of the wing half of the plan. G. Tack-glue the WIRE to the OUTBOARD SPAR and the BRASS TUBE to the INBROARD SPAR. Plug the wing panels together and make certain the wing structures butt evenly at the polyhedral joint.
14. With the outboard panel still pinned down, raise the inboard panel and support it with the wing dihedral gauges under the first rib #5 location, as shown on the plan. 19. Set the outboard L.E. sheeting in place, aligning the inboard edge of the sheet with the joint between rib #6 and the #6a doubler. When correctly positioned, tape the sheeting to the L.E. IMPORTANT: The end of the gauge stamped “A” must be up. Hold the gauges firmly in place by tack-cementing, clothespins, etc.
20. Trim off excess spar material extending beyond the #15 ribs (wing tip ribs) 23. Raise up the right inboard panel, supporting it with the dihedral gauges at the outermost rib #5 position. 21. Glue trip strip to the #15 ribs, as shown. IMPORTANT! The ends stamped “B” must be up. Carve and sand balsa tri-strips, so that they match the top contour of the wing tip ribs. Examine the center joint for good fit and alignment of the L.E., the spars, the joiners, and the T.E.
25. When the glue has dried, remove all clamps from the spars. When the L.E. sheeting is dry, install the diecut, tapered center sheeting. Cut three 3-1/4” pieces of bottom sheeting from the remainder of the 1/16” balsa sheeting. From plain 1/16 x3 x 12” balsa, cut and fit the remaining rear sheeting piece. Trim to fit between the spars, just as was done in Step 7. When satisfied with the fit, glue in place. Remove all pins and gauges and complete the sheeting of the right wing.
29. Cut a piece of 3/4” wide nylon long enough to wrap completely around the wing with a small overlap. Apply a spot of Super Jet™ on the wing bottom at the center joint. Immediately stick one end of the nylon strip to the wing and let dry until it is firmly glued to the balsa. Before continueing, protect fingers with a plastic bag or plastic wrap. Starting with the bottom of the wing, apply a squiggle of glue along the wing joint and lay the nylon strip over it.
FUSELAGE CONTRUCTION D/C SHT. 4007 D/C SHT. 4003 D/C SHT. 4008 D/C SHT. 4004 D/C SHT. 4011 D/C SHT. 4005 D/C SHT. 4013 D/C SHT. 4006 1. Collect the following parts: MATCH TONGUE CORNERS (2) D/C SHT. 4003 Fuse Side PT. #3603 (2) D/C SHT. 4004 Fuse Doubler PT. #3604 (1) D/C SHT. 4005 Fuse Top PT. #3605 (1) D.C SHT. 4006 Dorsal Fin PT. #3606 (1) D/C SHT. 4007 Fuse Bottom PT. #3607 (1) D/C SHT. 4008 Ply PT. #3608 Containing: Former “A”, Rear Motor Mount, Polyhedral Joiners (1) D/C SHT. 4011 Ply PT.
When dry, gently slide the hatch away from the fuse bottom sheet. 6. Lay out the fuselage, as shown, so that there is a left and a right side. Temporarily position the front and rear doublers on each fuse side to check for fit. ALIGN HOLES 4. Position 1/8” square x 7-3/8” bass rails behind the hatch tongue and flush with the hatch sides. Glue in place. Positiion the 1/16” ply doubler at the end of the hatch, as shown. Glue in place.
Spread the fuse front apart and, with the doubler strips facing toward the front of the model, plug Former “B” into the holes in the fuse sides. STAB PLATFORM Now, with the doubler strips facing thr rear of the plane, insert Former “C”. POSITION SLOT ON LEFT SIDE NOTE: The v-cut tops of the formers face in toward each other. 10.
16. Place the battery hatch in the fuse bottom and position a nylon flat hold-down at the centerline of the fuse. The open-hole half of the fastener should rest on the battery hatch and the closehole half on the fuse rear bottom sheet. 13. Turn the fuse over and position the 1/16” ply front bottom sheet on the fuse sides, behind Former “A.” Tape the sheet in position and then glue the joints. When dry, remove the tape and apply the glue to the taped areas.
As was done with the threaded wires, bend down one end of each 4” wire. Again, make a recess in the wood and drill a hole at the end of the recess to accept the hooked end of the wire. 19. Take one of the two 10” threaded rods and mark 7-1/4” from the threaded end. Cut at the mark. Attach each wire to the other end of each balsa pushrod and secure, as before. Take the other threaded rod and cut to a length of 4-1/4”. On each of the rods, bend the cut down about 1/4”, as shown.
COVERING COVERING THE MODEL INTRODUCTION There are several ways to cover the frame of a model airplane. Years ago, the open framework of most airplanes was covered with a combination of tissue (or silk) and dope; the solid structures were painted. Today, most models are covered with polyester films that resemble either a painted finish or a fabric finish. These films are easy to apply and actually increase the strength of the aircraft.
tip will rise up about 1/4 from the flat surface. COVERING THE TAIL Cover all tail components (the stabilizer, the elevator, the fin, and the rudder), following the same procedure as with the wing. The component pieces should each be covered separately, before assembly. Then, the covering should be carefully removed from the areas to be glued, so that a strong WOOD-SURFACE-TOWOOD-SURFACE adhesion is achieved.
Finally, it’s a very good idea to permanently affix your name, address, phone number, AMA number and the word “REWARD” on your aircraft. Then, if your model should fly away for any reason, you’ll have a chance of getiing it back. Cover the hatch bottom, carefully sealing around the edges. Trim the covering even with the hatch bottom and remove the covering from the ventilation holes. APPLYING DECALS Apply covering to the solid bottom pieces, wrapping and sealing around the edges.
LANDING WHEEL OPTION 6. Taking care to avoid cutting the wood underneath, strip away the covering in the area of the stab that contacts the fuse. Be certain to leave at least 1/8” to 3/16” of covering firmly bonded to the stab center. NOTE: The materials needed for the landing wheel option are NOT INCLUDED in your kit. Refer to the inside cover of this manual for materials needed. Again making sure not to cut the wood below, remove covering on the fuse top in the area where the stab will sit.
MOTOR INSTALLATION IMPORTANT! PLEASE READ THIS SECTION BEFORE BEGINNING MOTOR & RADIO INSTALLATION. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE PRECAUTIONS CAN LEAD TO SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY TO YOURSELF OR OTHERS, AND CAN RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE. PROPELLER HAZARD! When switched on, the motor instantly reaches full power and maximum propeller RPM. An electric motor pulls more battery energy as its work load is increased.
NOTE: When handling the motor and switch harness, try to avoid bending the wires near the soldered connections. If handled carelessly, these joints can be broken. The following instructions are for installing the Turbo 550 motor. If using another motor, you may need to modify the installation according to the motor manufacturer’s instructions. 4. Insert the motor through from the rear of Former “A”, so that the motor front protrudes about 1-3/4” out from the front of the fuse.
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN PIN 7. Place the propeller on top of the backplate so that it lines up with the pin, as shown above. Place a large washer on top of the prop and then install, using a #4 x 1/2” machine screw. CAUTION: DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN, as this may cause the threads to strip out. ALLEN WRENCH 8. Align the spinner cone with the prop/backplate and press pins firmly into the holes. One way to do this is to have the cone pointing downward on a table and press until all pins are seated.
RADIO INSTALLATION TYPICAL RADIO EQUIPMENT LOCATION CONTROL HORNS ELEVATOR SERVO RUDDER SERVO MOTOR SERVO MINI-SNAPS (CLEVISES) ELEVATOR PUSHROD RUDDER PUSHROD RECEIVER (RX) RADIO BATERY PACK ON/OF SWITCH. IMPORTANT! Installation of the Turbo 550 motor and a typical radio system is described in this booklet. Depending on the equipment you are using, you may not be able to follow exactly these instructions.
ELEVATOR AND RUDDER SERVO INSTALLATION MOTOR SERVO INSTALLATION (3-CHANNEL) 1. Referring to the plan for proper location, insert the motor servo onto the fuse side with servo mounting tape. INVERTED FUSE 2. Remove the servo wheel and install the CGM pushrod connector, as shown. This device lets you easily adjust the motor pushrod movement. Remount the servo wheel with the pushrod connector in the approximate position shown on the fuse top view on the plan. 1.
RADIO SWITCH AND CHARGING JACK INSTALLATION SERVO MOVEMENTS 1. Position the radio switch (and optional charging jack) cover plates on the outside of the fuse. NOTE: In a 3-channel system installation, position these plates on the side opposite the motor servo. 2-CHANNEL Insert a pencil through the holes in the cover plates, to mark the location of all holes and openings. 2 STICKS CONTROL 1 STICK AND 1 SLIDING TAB OR BUTTON 2 SERVOS CONTROL 3 SERVOS 2.
BALANCING THE MODEL SETTING CONTROL SURFACES All pushrods must move freely, without binding. Adjust them, if necessary, for smooth operation. When setting the travel (movement of rudder or elevator), make certain that no servo is hooked to a pushrod in a manner that prevents the servo wheel from moving through its full range of motion. For example, if the servo motor “buzzes,” when moved to the ON position, the servo still has movement, but it is jammed against the limit position.
MOTOR & BATTERY MAINTENANCE & CHARGING At the very quick charge rate that is common with today’s field chargers, there is little room for error. When you over-charge a battery, the temperature rises quickly and there is potential for EXPLOSION, or at least battery damage (Figure B). There are numerous ways to prevent this. How you charge depends on the type of charger you use.
“TREAT YOUR RADIO RIGHT AND IT WILL DO THE SAME FOR YOU!” by Hal deBolt Today's RC systems are very well engineered and constructed. However, they will remain only as good as the way in which they are USED. Always follow the rules of proper usage and all manufacturer's instructions for your particular piece of equipment. TRANSMITTERS: Keep your transmitter clean and free from fuel residue and dirt. Battery condition and RF output should be monitored, and the system should be aligned and tuned annually.
FLYING THE ELECTRA Finally, make sure that everything on your aircraft is neatly and firmly in place-motor fastened down, servos snugged down, receiver and battery wrapped in foam rubber, etc. Prop and spinner must be tight. The receiver antenna must be extended, not coiled up inside the model. Nothing should be loose, or unfinished, or unchecked. LEARNING TO FLY Flying R/C is both fun and challenging. As with other portions of this book, the following section is meant to introduce you to the basics.
The Electra was designed for long, slow, relaxed flying - not loops or similar aerobatic maneuvers. Save that kind of lying for your next, higher performance sport plane. Practicing precise control and glide planning on the Electra is good preparation for the demands of advanced aerobatic flying. wind, with wing level. With practice, you will be able to plan your approaches to land just about where you want.
to fly a model when it is downwind, and if a mistake is made, the model will end up further downwind, making it more difficult to fly back to the field. To compensate for wind, continue to make upwind turns shallow, but make the downwind turns a little steeper. As you get used to the controls, you probably will notice the model turning somewhat to the left or right, or climbing or descending, without any stick pressure on your part.
