Specifications

SECTION TEN
KEELS AND RUDDERS
There are basically two types of keels available on Clippers - fixed and swing keels.
SWING KEEL: If your new Clipper is equipped with a swing keel, there are a few procedures that
you should be familiar with as well as some maintenance tips. Your keel winch has a built in clutch
and is activated by attaching the handle. Merely tighten the handle on the exposed stud and the
winch is ready to crank up or down. If your boat is sitting on the trailer and you are ready to launch,
crank the winch until the keel is a couple of inches off of the trailer, and leave the handle in place. It
is a good idea to look under the boat the first few times until you are familiar with the amount of
effort necessary to raise the keel off the trailer. Note: Because of the mechanical advantage afforded
by the keel winch, it is possible to overcrank the winch and break the cable. A simple way of avoid-
ing this is to mark the cable with some paint when you have the keel at the correct height to clear
the trailer. If you find the winch slipping while the handle is in place, try cleaning the internal clutch
plates. This is easy to do and should remedy the situation.
After the boat is floated off the trailer, you are ready to lower the keel and insert the locking bolt. To
lock the keel in place, locate the locking bolt hole. It is a 3/8 inch hole on both sides of the keel
trunk, located just aft of the pivot bolt.
Sighting through the hole, you will be able to see daylight when the keel is lowered to just the exact
position. Because this was designed to be a snug fit, the keel will have to be in just the right posi-
tion for the bolt to go all the way through. The locking bolt is a 3/8 inch bolt with two large square
washers and two rubber gaskets. The gaskets go on both sides of the keel housing with the wash-
ers on the outside of them. This needs to be tightened with a wrench as it will leak if not. Note:
This locking bolt hole is located just above the waterline. If the bolt, gaskets and washers are not
installed or not tightened securely, water is going to come in the holes. If you are sailing in shallow
water and want the keel partially raised or don’t want to lock it in position (we do not recommend
this), you are going to have to plug the holes with corks or some other suitable alternative.
Additionally, if you sail with the locking bolt not in place, you will have to maintain tension on the keel
cable so the keel will not bang against the forward end of the keel trunk housing. Some times a
humming sound will be given off by the keel cable, in which case, ease off on the keel winch and let
the keel cable go slack.
To raise the keel, first remove pressure from the locking bolt by taking up on the keel cable. Be
careful you don’t overcrank the winch, because if you bend the locking pin, you may have trouble in
removing it. With pressure off of the locking bolt, it should slip right out and the keel is ready to raise
up to the hull. Again, be careful not to overcrank, as the keel begins to reach the bottom of the hull.
MAINTENANCE: Your retractable keel is cast iron and will rust. Most of this is just superficial and
can be knocked off with a wire brush and painted with an anti-rust paint. If your Clipper remains in
salt water for any length of time, the bottom, keel and rudder will eventually become fouled with
growth. Although fresh water will take longer to foul the bottom, fouling will eventually occur. We
cannot over emphasize the effect even a small amount of marine growth will have on your boat’s
performance. It is very significant! A protective coating of anti-fouling bottom paint (vinyl based)
should be used on the entire bottom. The keel should be thoroughly covered, along with the keel
cable and the inside of the keel cavity. If not, growth will collect on the inside of the keel cavity or on