Specifications

SECTION THREE
SPARS AND RIGGING
The rigging on your Clipper is of the highest quality stainless steel with swedged fittings. The stand-
ing rigging consists of a headstay, backstay, two upper shrouds and four lower shrouds (two lower
shrouds in the case of the Clipper 21). To raise and lower the mast, the forward lowers and the
headstay need only be disconnected. The remainder may be left connected for trailering, saving
time at your next stop.
The running rigging consists of two halyards, a main and a jib halyard for hoisting the sails. To sim-
plify setting up your boat to sail, leave the halyards tied to their respective cleats at the base of the
mast so they don’t become tangled.
MAINSHEET: The line from the mainsheet jam cleat and the block is
fastened to the lower side of the boom. The mainsheet jam cleat
fastens to the traveler in the cockpit. The traveler may remain
centered by use of the traveler control lines, while you are first
getting use to your new Clipper. After you have become proficient in handling your Clipper and you
feel like experimenting to gain more speed, you may start working with the traveler. Starting from
the centered position you will gradually pull the traveler to windward (toward the direction the wind is
coming from) in fairly light winds—say up to 8 or 10 knots. The 10 to 12 knot wind zone you will
probably find optimum performance with the traveler centered, but as the wind increases you can let
the traveler slide down to the leeward side.
JIB SHEETS: Attached to the clew (grommet at the lower trailing edge of the jib sail) and runs out-
side of all shrouds and lifelines and through the jib sheet blocks. Your halyards and sheets should
be checked also for broken or frayed sections. Your sheets and running rigging are dacron and
occasionally an end may fray. Put a piece of tape around the line several inches back from the
frayed section and trim with a sharp knife. Use a candle or lighter to burn the end. When the dacron
melts, it will never fray again.
SPARS: Your spar (mast) is of the highest quality anodized aluminum and requires no painting.
Soap and water on the shrouds and mast along with a bronze wool pad will remove the surface dirt
and oxidation. A good automotive past wax can help keep your spar looking like new for quite some
time, otherwise eventually the surface will begin to break down and oxidize. Keeping the halyards
tied away from the mast at rest will not only eliminate a lot of noise, but it will also keep the anodized
surface from becoming marred.
It is a good idea to periodically check all nuts, bolts, cotter pins, sheaves and rivets on your mast for
signs of wear. Make sure the spreader tips are well taped to protect against sail wear. All blocks,
turnbuckles and sheaves should be lubricated periodically with a light oil or grease such as WD-40.
STEPPING
YOUR MAST:
1. Hook up upper shrouds, aft lower shrouds and backstay. On the 21, hook up only the uppers, low-
ers and backstay.
2. Set mast in mast carrier and secure the base of the mast in the mast step with the bolt provided.
Note: If your mast carrier has two height positions be sure it is as high as it will go.
3. Check all shrouds to see they aren’t caught or tangled.