Instructions / Assembly

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A tree’s first few years are critical. Pruning then has a
profound effect on the ultimate size, shape, and health
of the mature tree.
Pruning When Planting
Shade trees are usually sold balled and burlapped, that
is, with most of their roots intact and surrounded by soil.
Such trees need little pruning when planted. Simply re-
move any twiggy growth that won’t be part of the tree’s
framework of branches. Container-grown trees need
almost no pruning, since none of their roots have been
removed. Prune only to remove dead or broken
branches. Plants that have been too long in the con-
tainer can form circling roots. Prune them; if left, they
could become girdling roots.
Bare-root trees (in which many of the roots have been
removed or damaged), may require some pruning
when planted, but the old practice of removing up
to one third of the stem and half of each branch has
been seriously questioned. Instead, prune any broken
branches or roots before planting. You may want to
SHADE TREES
Prune young shade trees to establish branch patterns that preserve
the natural habit of the tree. Certain trees – pin oaks, birches, poplars,
and the like form a single central trunk with clearly subsidiary side
branches. Any tendency of such trees to produce more than one lead-
er calls for removal of the weaker ones.