Instructions / Assembly

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“There are many factors why plants are winter hardy. When artificial means are used to bring a plant through
winter, ofter they can conflict with some beneficial factors. For die-back-hardy woody plants, the simplest winter
protection technique is applying a few inches of mulch year round. This allows the plant in the autumn to grow
into its fullest state of natural dormancy. It prevents the soil from getting as cold as would in open ground. And it
allows the plant to break dormancy slower in the spring. Cutting back the canes only in the spring provides shade
to the lower branches and helps attract snow cover that insulates and guards against low temperature injury and
fluctuating temperatures.” ~ Will Radler Creator of the Knock Out
®
Rose
1. Fall rains usually do the job, but
if the weather has been dry, wa-
ter deeply (to a depth of at least
18 inches) after the first frost but
before the ground freezes. Many
folks like me that grew up in the
North forget about watering
through the winter. However, in
Texas before a hard frost watering
protects your roses.
2. In early to mid fall, when the
nights are getting regularly frosty,
you can use soil to cover the base
of the plant, above the bud union.
3. I prune my roses in the spring
however you can cut the canes
back to 3 or 4 feet high and tie
them together with string to pre-
vent winter winds from whipping
them around and damaging the
canes. In the spring you will be
prune them off but in warmer cli-
mates damaging parts of the canes
that are living is the perfect entry
point for disease and weakens the
plant. If you plan on mounding with
soil get new soil. I like Organic Me-
chanics soil because it is important
to know what kind of soil and run
off that you are putting in your
rose garden.
4. When the ground is thorough-
ly frozen, cover the mound with
a thick layer of mulch, such as
straw, leaves, or compost. This
yearI am going to just do as
Will Radler suggests.
FALL ROSE PRUNING | WINTERIZING YOUR ROSES