Specifications

Copyright © 1997 By Corsair Marine Page 24 CORSAIR MARINE, Inc.
To fold, disconnect the shrouds from the float chainplates
(not required with F-24). The shrouds are then retained to
the float by the Link Plates with rotating masts, which give
just enough slack to fold, while preventing the mast from
falling should the mast raising wires be forgotten.
The F-31 fixed mast version will require that the shrouds
be completely disconnected from the float, and they can then
be secured to the mast with velcro straps. This stops them
from flopping around. An alternative is to attach them to the
float deck just behind the forward beams. This keeps them
from moving, yet allows the float to fold up.
Before folding, first check to see no one is on the side
being folded, and then undo the beam bolts. The beams on
the side first released may spring about 12" into the air as the
last bolt is undone. Hold the top of the beam and lift upward
to fold, TAKING CARE NOT TO LET THE FLOAT SWING
IN TOO FAST AGAINST THE CENTER HULL which could
damage the stops. You will have to slow it slightly. Insert the
beam locking pin. If the float does not fold in fully, the usual
cause is the wingnet catching on the aft corner of the cabin
side rail. To correct, just push the wingnet down under the
cabin side rail.
WARNING
Take great care while folded in winds of 25 knots
or
more.
A combination of a high cross wind and a fast,
tight turn,
may be sufficient to overcome the folded
stability of bigger designs,
resulting in a roll over.
Now fold the second side. You may find this initially more
difficult, as the boat is heeled this way, due to the first float
folded lifting that side. Crew weight on the already folded side
will help by levelling the boat out more. Lift, and once again
don’t let the float come in too fast once it starts moving. Insert
the beam locking pin.
If anything seems hard or difficult when folding, STOP
and see if anything is misaligned, or snagged. A common
error is to try and fold without disconnecting the shrouds. The
beam won't budge, so remember to check this.
Raise the daggerboard and rudder, and cleat both in the
up position. You are now ready for the trailer.
If there is a cross wind at the ramp, then a Side
Guide Rail should be fitted to the leeward side of the
trailer. This will prevent the boat swinging sideways
and off the trailer.
Back the trailer down into the water until the water
reaches the forward inward bend of the trailer side
members and the float supports are just visible above
water level. Don’t submerge the trailer any further than
this. Gently guide the boat into the center and pull up as
far as it will go. Take care here, that it comes on straight,
and avoid pulling it over the center hull side supports,
as this can damage the Log paddlewheel sender unit
on the bottom of the hull (gets expensive to replace).
A side line from the windward aft cleat may also be
helpful in cross winds to prevent the stern swinging too
far sideways.
If motoring onto the trailer, leave the daggerboard
down until the last minute - otherwise any crosswind
makes it very difficult to keep on center. Once fully on,
connect the trailer winch hook, and winch on the
remaining few feet.
The boat can now be pulled from the water, and
when on level ground remember to check that it is fully
winched on. Once out of the water there always tends
to be some slack in the winch wire. Tie an extra safety
line from the bow eye down to the winch post, ready for
de-rigging.
DE-RIGGING
Remove the bow line, separate the two lines, and
use as the side tie-downs. Fit the aft mast support and
the trailer lights.
Remove the jib and fold. The jib sheets can be
stowed in the anchor well ready for instant use next
time. If possible, the jib can be stowed inside one of the
F-28 Shroud disconnected, and being restrained by link to give just
enough slack for folding. Mast raising wires must be fitted prior to
disconnecting shroud (can be seen in background).