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ALBATROSS by CRASHTESTHOBBY.COM

The Albatross is a unique slow flyer designed to put its nose on the horizon and level its own wings without a pilot. It is

very quiet and designed to use inexpensive electronics. It is one of my favorite night planes and small park flyers

because it is quiet and easy to fly. The fuselage is a strong solid block of EPP foam which increases its durability. You

will cut holes in the EPP fuselage to install your radio rather than installing electronics in a hollow fuselage. We

recommend you build your Albatross with a pod mounted motor because it protects the prop and motor and leaves room

for a camera up front. The Albatross is available with ailerons for more advanced flying and FPV but don't underestimate

the stability and fun of the polyhedral wing.

Instructions included for the front mount and pod motor and the polyhedral and aileron wing

- The optional pod mount and/or aileron wings do not change the CG location.

- Laminate included only for the fuselage. The wing is NOT laminated.

- The aileron wing has the ailerons precut in the wing.

- Center of Gravity: 3.75” (9.5 cm) back on the wing.

- Elevator throws: 3/8” (1 cm) up/down. Rudder 1” (2.5 cm) left/right. Ailerons: 3/8" up/down.

- On the polyhedral wing the wing tip angle is up 5” to top of the foam on each wingtip.

- On the polyhedral wing the rudder servo is plugged into the aileron plug on the receiver.

- The aileron wing has each wing tip up 2.5" on each wingtip or 5" up on one tip when the other wing is flat.

- Front wing dowel is back 9” from the nose of the fuselage.

- The back wing dowel is ½” behind the back of the wing.

- Use six to eight #64 size rubber bands to secure the wing.

- Best flying weight: 19-27 oz (570-810 gm) Lighter always flies better!!!

- 2812 motor, 25A ESC, 2 (or 4 for wing with ailerons) mg90 servos.

- 1300 to 3000 mA 3S lipo battery recommended.

- Launch at 1/2 throttle and throttle up.

EQUIPMENT NEEDED

- All electronics and accessories as desired (motor, props, esc, transmitter, receiver and servos)

- Low-temperature hot glue gun (and low-temp rated glue)

- “Goop” brand glue, (Shoe Goo, or Quick Grip glue can also be used)

- Reinforced packing tape, preferably 2” Scotch Extreme Tape

- Metal straight edge

- Soldering iron (either adjustable-depth tip, or a wheel collar to restrict depth)

- Fine grit sand paper

- Pliers or side cutters

- Razor blade

- Electric drill and small bit

- Philips head screwdriver

- Iron for applying laminate (hobby iron is preferable, but clothing iron may be used)

- Velcro strip

Summary of content (14 pages)

PAGE 1
ALBATROSS by CRASHTESTHOBBY.COM The Albatross is a unique slow flyer designed to put its nose on the horizon and level its own wings without a pilot. It is very quiet and designed to use inexpensive electronics. It is one of my favorite night planes and small park flyers because it is quiet and easy to fly. The fuselage is a strong solid block of EPP foam which increases its durability. You will cut holes in the EPP fuselage to install your radio rather than installing electronics in a hollow fuselage.
PAGE 2
FOAM PREPARATION 1. 2. Rub the EPP foam surfaces with another piece of EPP foam to get the melted fibers off. Use your fingernail to pick off any stubborn fibers. You can also use a disposable razor and shave the EPP foam to get the fibers off. Lay out the pieces and check the fit of the wing tips. Notice that the nose of the fuselage is cut at an angle, down and to the right. When the motor is nose mounted this will help compensate for the torque of the motor, and the lift created upon acceleration.
PAGE 3
6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. Install a carbon spar in the horizontal elevator to add strength and improve the function of the elevator. Cut a slit with a razor blade 2.5" back from the front of the horizontal tail that is 12" wide leaving 3" on each end uncut. Sand the flat carbon spar lightly so the CA glue will have a better grip. Press the 12 " spar into the slot making sure that it does not poke out the top or the bottom along its length.
PAGE 4
25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. Put hot glue in the slot, and then insert the spar. Fill in any gaps above the spar with hot glue, and smooth the surface. Use snips to cut off any excess spar sticking out on the sides. Measure where the center of the wing is, and place a mark on the leading and trailing edges of the wing at the center point. Glue the tongue depressors centered on top and bottom, on the leading and trailing edges of the wing.
PAGE 5
45. Use hot glue and glue the spars in the slots making sure they are touching each other and well glued to the wood brace. 46. Cut the ailerons in the center of the wing so there is a 1" gap on each side between the aileron and fuselage so there is room to attach the rubber bands to the rear dowel. This leaves the back trailing edge thicker for the rubber bands. 47.
PAGE 6
53. 54. 55. 56. 57. 58. 59. 60. 61. 62. Gently push the servo wire into the slit leaving the last 1" of the wire out of the center of the wing. Using hot glue or goop, glue in the servos and secure the wires where they come out in the center of the wing.
PAGE 7
67. 68. 69. 70. 71. 72. 73. 74. 75. 76. 77. 78. 79. 80. Press the wing dowel into the slit in the foam down 3/4" from the top of the fuselage. Use a Phillips screwdriver to STAB a vertical hole in the TOP of the fuselage behind the dowel. Some builders prefer to pre-drill a hole with a 3/8” bit. The hole needs to be at 90 degrees to the TOP of the fuselage and not tipped to one side. Press the sharpened end of the pod in the hole in the fuselage so it extends to the bottom of the fuselage.
PAGE 8
Build instructions for fuselage with nose mounted motor 81. 82. 83. 84. 85. 86. 87. 88. 89. 90. 91. Two layers of Formica plate will be glued on the front of the fuselage Put the hot glue on the foam first because the Formica plate causes the glue to cool too quickly. Set the hot glue gun to low temperature and glue a Formica plate on the upper nose section on the fuselage. Hold the Formica plate in place while the glue sets but glue the second Formica plate directly over the top before it cools.
PAGE 9
2. Hold your motor mounting base on the Formica plates, and use a pen to mark the holes for the screws. 93. Use a drill and a small bit to drill pilot holes in where you placed the marks. 94. Screw your motor mount base to the nose of the plane. Do not over-tighten the screws, as it may crack the Formica plates. Install the dowels that will hold the rubber bands that secure the wing. 95. Measure back 9" from the nose of the plane and cut a 3/4" deep slit on the top with a sharp razorblade. 96.
PAGE 10
4. Use your ruler to mark the center point at the front and back of the horizontal tail piece. Make a matching center mark on the top of the fuselage, just in front of the piece you just cut out. 105. Put hot glue on the recessed surface of the fuselage and place the horizontal tail piece in place. Make sure the center marks you measured match up. Use a square to make sure the tail piece is exactly perpendicular to the fuselage. 106.
PAGE 11
SERVOS & PUSH RODS 112. The servos should sit no more than 2” (0-5 cm) in front of the upright tail piece with the arms facing outwards, and the leads pointing towards the nose of the plane. 113. The servos can either be upright or laid on their side. Both methods work well. 114. Lay the servos in place and mark the fuselage in front and behind them for a pattern to cut on. 115. Use a straight edge and razor blade to cut across the fuselage at the front and back marks for the servo.
PAGE 12
2. Use a pointed blade or box knife to cut a slot completely through the elevator for the horn. Start just behind the hinge line. 123. Remove the extra tab that comes attached on the back of the horns. 124. Push the horn up through the bottom of the elevator so that the base is flat against the bottom of the elevator.
PAGE 13
5. The ESC and receiver can be laid flat or stood on their edge. 136. Adjust your soldering iron tip to the proper depth, and melt compartments for the ESC and Rx or you can cut them with a longer blade hobby knife. Make the size of the compartments tight so that the ESC or Receiver fit snugly. 137. Use your razor blade and a straight edge to cut slits for the leads between the electronics, so that they are buried at least flush with the top of the fuselage. 138.
PAGE 14
9. If the plane does not balance you can adjust the battery location or add weight to the nose or the tail of the plane until it balances correctly. Remember the CG is relative to the wing not the fuselage. 150. The wing will be held to the fuselage with 6-8 rubber bands. Not only is this an effective way to attach the two parts, but it allows for simple takedown, travel, and storage. Attaching the wing with pod mount and front mount motors shown below. SETTING TRIM/THROW & ELECTRONICS TESTING 151.