Eighteen easy-to-follow steps for the skilled carpenter Handy checklist lets you use the Crown Heritage catalog to choose your components STEP-BY-STEP Background information helps you understand the S T A I RWA Y C O N S T R U C T I O stairway construction process N Over sixty detailed illustrations STEP-BY-STEP S T A I RWA Y C CROWN HERITAGE PO BOX 130, NORTH WILKESBORO, NC 28659 WWW.CROWNHERITAGE.COM 800.745.5931 © COPYRIGHT 2005 (CH214/03.25.
ii i INTRODUCTION T H E C R O W N H INTRODUCTION W E R I T A G E CROWN HERITAGE? P ROMISE Many skilled amateur handymen, and even experienced professional contractors, are reluctant to tackle stairway construction. And yet, there are few other design elements that can rival a fine hardwood stairway in adding drama and value to the interior of a home. The instructions in this manual have been written in plain language.
iv iii INTRODUCTION S INTRODUCTION W T A I R W A Y BASICS H A T ’ S Y O U R STYLE? A stairway is made up of two basic elements. The first is the rough stair carriage that consists of a series of stringers that provide structural support, and basic elements such as treads and risers for moving people from one level to another. The second element is the balustrade that contributes safety as well as beauty.
vi v INTRODUCTION M O M P A R I S O N TABLE Hampton x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x Fittings (see Fig. i-4) are handrail parts used mainly, but not exclusively, in over-the-post installations. Fittings like the volute shown at the base of the handrail in Fig.
viii vii CONTENTS CONTENTS SECTION A: Layout and Construction of the Rough Stair Carriage SECTION B: Layout and Construction of the Balustrade Follow the seven steps in this section if you intend to design and build a stairway from scratch. If you are constructing a balustrade on an existing stairway or remodeling, review Section A, then go directly to Section B. Follow the twelve steps in this section to add the balustrade, the newels, balusters and handrail to your stairway. 1. . . STEP 3. . .
2 1 SECTION A S SECTION A T E P S A .1 A solid and durable stairway depends on its support system. In this section, you will learn how to plan and build the load-bearing structure that will become the means for moving people and objects from one level of your building to the next. Consult a qualified professional for loadbearing requirements. F I G .
4 3 SECTION A S SECTION A S T E P A.3 A.2 FIG. 2-1 - Cleats, ledgers and reinforced mounting points are required for sturdy installation Hangerboard secured to doubled rafter T E P S T E P A.2 – Install The Stringers S T E P A.3 – Brace and Block the Stringers Sturdiness and safety demand secure mounting of the stringers. Use of a cleat at the lower end and a plywood hangerboard at the upper end (see Fig. 2-1) are the best guarantee of this.
6 5 SECTION A S SECTION A S T E P A.4 A.5 S T E P A.4 – Install Skirt Board F I G . 4 - 1 - S k i r t b o a r d c a n e n h a n c e a s t a i r w ay S T E P A.5 – Install the Risers See StairNote Four: Why Use Skirt Boards? NOTE: Mitering a skirtboard is considered advanced carpentry. Another option is to cut them to the same pattern as the stringers, using a square cut.
8 7 SECTION A S SECTION A S T E P A.6 A.5 If the stairway is closed on both sides, the task of scribing both ends must be done on scraps and transferred to the actual risers. Rip all risers and scraps as described above. Cut all scraps 1/2 " shorter than the smallest inside dimension. Place a scrap riser across the stringers, butt one end against the skirt board, and scribe a line. Now do the same at the other end. Trim both ends to the scribe lines.
9 SECTION A S SECTION B S T E P B .1 a A.7 (Step A.6 cont.) Remove the entire assembly and attach the 1" x 4" cleat to the floor (see Fig. 6-3). Attach smaller cleats (approximately 11/4 " x 11/4 " stock) to the inside top edge of the riser. Space these small cleats so they will fall between the stringers. F I G .
12 11 SECTION B S S T E P B .1 a FIG. 8-3 - Adjusting baluster centerline for termination into a wall Half newel Now find the location of the first baluster on the tread. It will be on the baluster line, and the leading face of the baluster should be in line distance with thebetween face of the riser beneath centerpoints of run = balusters (and newels) throughout the tread (see Fig. 8-4). no. of balusters the overall run (see Fig.
14 13 SECTION B S SECTION B S T E P B .1 b T E P B.2 B.1b – Mark the Newel Positions B.2 – All About Newels F I G . 9 - 1 - Ty p i c a l p o s t - t o - p o s t n ew e l s Newels are the primary support members of the balustrade. They should be placed at each point of stairway transition: the beginning (“starting newel”), at landings and balconies, and/or at the intersection of baluster lines where the stairway changes direction.
16 15 SECTION B S SECTION B S T E P B.2a T E P B.2a Universal Newel (48" long with a 5" Top Block) Choose this newel for a starting newel or first floor newel when your rake rail height is less than 33". This newel also can be used for level run or balcony installations when a 5" top block newel is desired. Universal Newel (54" or 56" long with a 5" Top Block) Choose this newel when your rake rail height is 34" or higher.
18 17 SECTION B S SECTION B S T E P B.2b B.2b B.2b – Over-the-Post Newels Over-the post newels are always capped by the handrail. The top of each newel features a short dowel, and the lower end of some starting newel models features a longer dowel for mounting the newel on a starting step. Square bottom newels are also available (see Fig. 9-3). Square bottom overthe-post newels are mounted like post-to-post newels. F I G .
20 19 SECTION B S SECTION B S T E P distance between centerpoints of run = balusters (and newels) throughout no. of balusters the overall run (see Fig. 8-6) B.2b FIG. 9-4 - Determining the length of a starting newel run – baluster square thickness 2 Starting fitting of rail 13/4" is the same as 10" – 7/8" = 91/8" 2 center 10" – Distance from starting fitting to top of tread distance from front + tread = edge of tread to overhang center of first baluster Vertical (see Fig.
22 21 SECTION B S SECTION B T E P B.3a FIG. 10-2 - Alternate newel installation on a starting step Construction adhesive S Install the wood screw end of the lag bolt into the hole using a ratchet or drill and socket. You may find it easier to lock two nuts together to make it easier to turn. The screw must penetrate the newel so that only 1" of the machine portion of the lag bolt is exposed at the bottom of the newel. Mount the tread to the starting step riser as you normally would.
24 23 SECTION B S SECTION B S T E P B.3b F I G . 1 0 - 3 - N ew e l i n s t a l l a t i o n o n a p l a i n t r e a d B.3b B.3b – lnstalling a Starting Newel in Over-the-Post or Post-to-Post Stairways with Plain Tread or Mitered Tread If the starting newel is to be draped, the greatest care should be taken to notch the square base of the newel and the tread nosing for a snug fit. This is why the treads have been dry fitted to this point.
26 25 SECTION B S SECTION B S T E P B.4 T E P B.5 S T E P B.4 – Install the Starting Step Go to Step B.5 when using plain tread for the first step. Apply adhesive to the floor cleat installed in Step A.6 and to the back edge of the starting step tread, and move the assembly into its final position. A few 8d finishing nails through the riser will hold it to the cleat while the adhesive sets. Where possible, use screws to attach the second riser to the back of the starting step tread. S T E P B.
28 27 SECTION B S SECTION B S T E P B.6 F I G . 1 3 - 1 - L a n d i n g n ew e l l o c a t i o n B.7 S T E P B.6 – Install the Landing Newel(s) S T E P B.7 – Install the Balcony Newel(s) The landing newel, like the starting newel, must be positioned on the baluster line (Step B.1a). When your stairway changes direction at a landing, the landing newel must be positioned at the intersection of two baluster lines (see Fig. 13-1).
30 29 SECTION B S T E P B.9a B.8 FIG. 15-1 - Installation of half newel T E P Now it is time to put your pitch block (see StairNote Three: How to Make a Pitch Block) to use in constructing the handrail. newel(s) in the run. Install as shown in Fig. 15-1, using In completing this step, remember that even the best carpenters do not attempt complex angle cuts in one step.
32 31 SECTION B S SECTION B S T E P B.9a FIG. 16-2 - Marking the gooseneck for trimming Rak e Run Rise Rise Mark the tangent (contact) point Rak e Run Align with rake and complete mark T E P B.9a GOOSENECK LANDING FITTINGS BALCONY GOOSENECK FITTINGS These fittings consist of a loose up easing and a transition piece that has an attached up easing on the upper end. Trim the transition up easing first just as described in the Starting Fitting section.
34 33 SECTION B S SECTION B S T E P B.9a T E P B.9b With the balcony assembly aligned as described above and resting on the blocks, the rail drop portion of the transition assembly will now be aligned with the rake balustrade centerline. Since a fitting of some sort is already attached to the lower end of the rake rail, it is necessary to determine the proper length of the rail and the correct angle to cut the up easing.
36 35 SECTION B S SECTION B S T E P T E P B .10 FIG. 17-1 - Crown System alignment { { B .10 S T E P B.10 – Install the Balusters Starting Fitting Balusters When using 11/4 " balusters and for 34" and 35" rake In Step B.1a, you marked the centerpoints of all the balusters on the baluster line. Now with newel(s) and handrail dry fitted, it is time to dry fit the balusters. See StairNote Ten: All About Balusters for a better understanding of baluster features.
38 37 SECTION B S SECTION B S T E P B .10 a FIG. 17-3 - Marking pin top baluster centerpoints on handrail B .10 b B.10a – Installing Pin Top Balusters B.10b – Installing Square Top Balusters Pin top balusters are designed to fit into a hole drilled in the underside of an unplowed rail. The object is to find the centerpoints for these holes on the underside of the rail and to be certain the balusters will be plumb.
40 39 SECTION B S SECTION B S T E P B .10 c B .10 c B.10c – Installing Forged Iron F I G . 1 7 - 6 - Fo r g e d i r o n c r e a t i v e s a m p l e s T E P Here’s your chance to be creative. Our forged iron stairways may be designed to your preference. Feel free to “mix and match” balusters that appeal to you. Almost any combination is acceptable. Our graceful “belly balusters” are specially designed for balconies.
42 41 SECTION B S SECTION B S T E P B .10 c FIG. 17-8 - Setting a square baluster in a round hole B .10 c If you use shoes, you may decide to drill a round hole and not chisel it square. This hole will be the size of the diagonal measurement of the baluster and will be hidden by the shoe (some shoes have set screws to hold them in place). We recommend using epoxy in the hole.
44 43 SECTION B S SECTION B S T E P B .11 a B .11 S T E P B.11 – Complete the Balustrade Assembly B.l1a – Stairways with Pin Top Balusters At this point, all of the components of the balustrade system have been trimmed and fitted, and are ready for final assembly. Treads and newels have been permanently mounted, and the handrail and balusters have been dry fitted. The next (and final) step in the process is applying finishing materials. You may wish to integrate Step B.11 and Step B.
46 45 SECTION B S SECTION B S T E P B .11 b B .1 2 B.11b – Stairways with Square Top Balusters FIG. 18-2 - Installing square top balusters Toenail the baluster in place Trim and install fillet between baluster locations T E P Begin by permanently installing the handrail. Use carpenter’s glue on all joints, carefully wiping away any excess to avoid finishing difficulties. Sand away smudges and pencil marks and complete light finish sanding in areas that will become hard to reach after assembly.
48 47 APPENDIX 1 B E N D I N G R APPENDIX 1 B A I L 2" x 6" 6" Mark the rail centerline 6" Read all instructions carefully before starting. S T E P 3: Constructing the Bending Rail The following procedures provide guidance for assembling curved balustrades and balcony handrails. The inside of the bending mold should be covered with wax paper or plastic to prevent the glue from sticking to the mold. A I L FIG.
50 49 APPENDIX 1 B E N D I N G R APPENDIX 2 T A I L INSTALL ATION R O U B L E S H O O T I N G REFERENCE Normally bending rails may be removed from the bending guides in 24 to 48 hours. Extra drying time is recommended when the rail is bent to a tight radius. Unclamp the rail and F I G . A 2 - 1 - U s e o f 9 0 ˚ u p e a s i n g w i t h u n i q u e n ew e l l o c a t i o n PROBLEM: remove the bending guides. Separate the rail from the bending mold.
52 51 APPENDIX 2 T APPENDIX 2 T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G REFERENCE R O U B L E S H O O T I N G REFERENCE FIG. A2-3 - Use of an overeasing at the balcony FIG. A2-5 - Use of level rail on a landing PROBLEM: PROBLEM: Instead of a standard gooseneck, an overeasing is desired at A section of level rail is needed on an intermediate landing. 'A' (balcony newel) the balcony.
54 53 APPENDIX 3 H I A R D W A R E APPENDIX 3 H N S T A L L A T I O N INSTRUCTIONS FIG. A3-1 - Drilling holes in the rail 1/4" Hole 3/8" Hole 1" Hole 3001 Rail Bolt Installation Instructions 3076 Baluster Fasteners Installation Instructions Tools Needed: • Reversible Drill • Box end wrench - 1/2 " • Drill bits - 1/4 ", 3/8 " & 1" Tools Needed: • Drill bit - 1/4” • Reversible Drill Optional tool: • #3088 Dowel Driver - very helpful • Hammer 1.
56 55 APPENDIX 3 H A R D W A R E I APPENDIX 4 T N S T A L L A T I O N INSTRUCTIONS Tools Needed: • Socket wrench • Drill bits - 1/4 ", 7/16 " & 1" • Reversible Drill 1" Reveal Connecting Handrail to Newel Post (see Fig. A3-5) 1" FIG. A3-6 - Connecting a post to a riser P R O M E N A D E SERIES 3078 Rail & Post Fastener Installation FIG. A3-5 - Connecting a handrail to a newel post H E 1. Trim the handrail to the needed length. Mark the center end of the handrail for a 1/4 " pilot hole.
58 57 APPENDIX 4 T H E P APPENDIX 4 T R O M E N A D E SERIES WARNING: Although the Promenade Series is designed for exterior use, any wood is subject to weather damage if not properly sealed. To preserve the beauty of your Promenade balustrade, it is critical to adequately seal all ends of the rail, newels and balusters that may be exposed to the elements. Sealing is achieved by using careful measurement, cutting for precise fit and applying a good quality wood sealer.
60 59 APPENDIX 4 T H E P APPENDIX 5 S R O M E N A D E SERIES P H E R E R U L E TABLE WARNING: Prior to painting or finishing the completed balustrade, verify all exposed ends of newels, balusters, and railings are adequately sealed. Complete sealing is necessary to protect the wood from weather damage. After finishing the handrail section, the assembly can be attached to the newel posts using two lag bolts and washers from inside the newel post box.
NOTES NOTES
