Installation Instructions
STEP ONE
STEP TWO
STEP THREE
STEP FOUR
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Continue fastening shiplap by leaving
approximately 1/32" (the thickness of
about 5 sheets of oce paper) between
the shiplap for expansion and contraction.
While working, check for level with a tape measure or level.
Secure shiplap by nailing close to the
edge of the tongue with 1-1/2" nishing
nails at an angle. If nailing by hand, pre-
drill pilot holes at a 45° angle before
installing the nail. Use a nail set to sink
in nails below the surface so that the nails will not interfere with
the upcoming shiplap.
Helpful Tip: Fast track your installation by renting or buying a nish
nailer and compressor from your local store.
Begin installation in one corner of the room. Apply construction
adhesive to the back of the shiplap panel. PL Premium (Sku
520-1998 & 520-2007) is recommended. Leave a minimum of
an 1/8" gap between the corner and the rst panel. The panel
should be installed with the grooved side toward the ground
and the tongue side toward the ceiling.
When installing shiplap perpendicular to wall framing, you can
secure the panel directly to the wall studs or wall sheeting. If
directly over framing, shiplap joints should be centered on wall
studs. Fasten shiplap to wall every 16".
If installing shiplap parallel to the wall framing, furring strips
must be added horizontally before the installation can begin.
Maximum on center spacing of studs / furring strips should be
no longer than 16" on center and the nal stud / furring strip
should be no more than 1" from the end of the panel.
When installing shiplap on a ceiling, 1/2" OSB should be used
as a structural backer before installation.
When installing shiplap on exterior or below grade walls, a vapor
barrier must be used.
Helpful Tip: To conceal seams between shiplap joints, a color
matched satin nish paint can be applied to walls prior to
installation.
1/32"
RECOMMENDED CUTTING
When cutting, the nished side should be face up. Slowly cut
with a 60 tooth carbide tip blade for a smooth edge nish.
BUTT JOINTS BETWEEN SHIPLAP ENDS
1/16"
Recommended: Paint cut ends with matching latex paint
Paint matches for all DAKOTA™ shiplap can be found at
your local
or online at . If installing
shiplap in a bathroom, butt joints must be covered with a latex
based paint. When shiplap is properly acclimated, a 1/16"gap
is recommended for all end-to-end butt joints to allow for
adequate expansion and contraction of shiplap.
Always leave an 1/8" gap between the top of the last panel
and the ceiling. Use DAKOTA™ moulding or boards to create
a decorative transition between your walls and ceilings. A
complete line of complementary mouldings and boards are
available in the Building Materials and Millwork Departments.
MOULDING AND BOARDS
MATERIAL CALCULATOR
Calculate the area of the wall being covered by multiplying
the width of the wall by the height of the wall. Use the square
footage per piece below to calculate the correct number of
boards.
Helpful tip: Add 10% of additional material for cuts.
8' Shiplap square footage = 4.63 sq. ft./piece
8' Skinny Shiplap Square footage = 3.2 sq. ft./piece
12' Shiplap square footage = 6.94 sq. ft./piece
12' Skinny Shiplap square footage = 4.81 sq. ft./piece
For example: 8'H X 12'W = 96 sq. ft. (area)
If using 8’ Shiplap, divide 96 by 4.63 = 20.74 pieces
20.74 X 1.1 (10% for cuts) = 22.8 pieces
22.8 round up to the next whole piece = 23 total pieces
CEILING TRANSITIONS
SHIPLAP
SHIPLAP & SKINNY SHIPLAP
Installation instructions
DAKOTA™ shiplap is for interior use only. Before you begin,
allow shiplap to acclimate for at least 72 hours in the room
it will be installed. Do not store or install DAKOTA™ shiplap
in environments where drastic, prolonged uctuations in
temperature and humidity occur; such as 3-season rooms or
garages. If installing in a bathroom, avoid direct contact with
water and maintain proper ventilation to avoid prolonged
exposures of humidity to the shiplap.
Planking Instructions on the back.