Installation Instructions

When installing shiplap perpendicular to wall framing, you can
secure the panel directly to the wall studs or wall sheeting. If
directly over framing, shiplap joints should be centered on wall
studs. Fasten shiplap to wall every 16”.
If installing shiplap parallel to the wall framing, furring strips
must be added horizontally before the installation can begin.
Maximum on center spacing of studs / furring strips should be
no longer than 16" on center and the nal stud / furring strip
should be no more than 1" from the end of the panel.
When installing shiplap on a ceiling, 1/2" OSB should be used
as a structural backer before installation.
When installing shiplap on exterior or below grade walls, a vapor
barrier must be used.
Helpful Tip: To conceal seams between shiplap joints, a color
matched satin nish paint can be applied to walls prior to installation.
STEP ONE
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
STEP TWO
Begin installation in one corner of the room. Apply construction
adhesive to the back of the shiplap panel. PL Premium (Sku
520-1998 & 520-2007) is recommended. Leave a minimum of
an 1/8" gap between the corner and the rst panel. The panel
should be installed with the grooved side toward the ground
and the tongue side toward the ceiling.
STEP THREE
Secure shiplap by nailing close to the
edge of the tongue with 1-1/2” nishing
nails at an angle. If nailing by hand, pre-
drill pilot holes at a 45° angle before
installing the nail. Use a nail set to sink
in nails below the surface so that the nails will not interfere
with the upcoming shiplap.
Helpful Tip: Fast track your installation by renting a nish nailer and
compressor from your local Menard® store.
STEP FOUR
Continue fastening shiplap by leaving
approximately 1/32" (the thickness of
about 5 sheets of oce paper) between
the shiplap for expansion and contraction.
While working, check for level with a tape measure or level.
1/32"
RECOMMENDED CUTTING
When cutting, the nished side should be face up. Slowly cut
with a 60 tooth carbide tip blade for a smooth edge nish.
1/16"
Recommended: Paint cut ends with matching paint
When shiplap is properly acclimated, a 1/16” gap is
recommended for all end-to-end butt joints to allow for adequate
expansion and contraction of shiplap. The ends of the shiplap
can be painted prior to installation using a latex based paint with
a satin nish. Paint matches for all DAKOTA™ shiplap can be
found at your local or online at .com.
If installing shiplap in a bathroom, butt joints must be covered
with a latex based paint.
Use DAKOTA moulding or boards to create a decorative
transition between your walls and ceilings. A complete line
of complementary mouldings and boards are available in the
Millwork and Building Materials Departments.
MOULDING
MATERIAL CALCULATOR
Calculate the area of the wall being covered by multiplying the
width of the wall by the height of the wall. Use the multiplier
below to calculate the correct number of boards. Helpful tip:
Adding 10% of additional material recommended.
8' Shiplap multiplier = .212
12' Shiplap multiplier = .142
For example: 8'H x 12'W = 96 sq.ft. (area)
If using 8' boards, multiply 96 x .212 = 20.35 pieces.
20.35 x 1.1 (10% for framing)= 22.38 pieces
22.38 round up to the next whole piece = 23 total pieces
CEILING TRANSITIONS
SHIPLAP
Installation instructions
DAKOTA shiplap is for interior use only. Before you begin,
allow shiplap to acclimate for at least 72 hours in the room it
will be installed. Do not store or install DAKOTA shiplap
in environments where drastic, prolonged uctuations in
temperature and humidity occur; such as 3-season rooms or
garages. If installing in a bathroom, avoid direct contact with
water and maintain proper ventilation to avoid prolonged
exposures of humidity to the shiplap.
BUTT JOINTS BETWEEN SHIPLAP ENDS

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