Installation Instructions

ACCLIMATE MOULDING:
DAKOTA™ moulding is for interior use only. Before you
begin, allow moulding to acclimate for at least 72 hours
in the room they will be installed. Do not store or install
DAKOTA™ moulding in environments where drastic, prolonged
uctuations in temperature and humidity occur; such as
3-season rooms or garages. If installing in a bathroom, avoid
direct contact with water and maintain proper ventilation to
avoid prolonged exposures of humidity to the moulding.
APPLYING MOULDING:
Install moulding piece-by-piece, working your way around
the room. Using a hammer or pneumatic brad nailer, fasten
moulding to wall every 9"— 12" with 1-1/2"— 2" brad nails.
Any nails in the nal 3" of a piece of moulding should be pre-
drilled and nailed by hand. Use a nail set to sink any nail heads
that may not have fully sunk into the moulding.
CUTTING MITERED CORNERS:
Most room corners are 90º, so most of your moulding cuts will
be made at a 45º angle. Always test t the moulding before
proceeding, as corners may not be square. If the corner is
not exactly 90º, re-cut both pieces to the same angle until
moulding meets correctly.
SPLICING TWO PIECES OF TRIM:
It is always preferable to use one piece of moulding to cover a
wall, but splicing may be necessary. When splicing, center the
splice on a wall stud. Cut both pieces of moulding to opposing
45° angles. Test t to wall to verify t, then apply glue to the
cut ends, pre-drill and nail the joint.
Wipe o excess glue immediately.
CUTTING CROWN CORNERS:
Crown Moulding does not lie ush against the wall, so cutting
the crown moulding will take time. When cutting a corner for
crown moulding, you can cut it two dierent ways:
1. Block the Moulding up on the fence
and the base of your miter saw and
cut at a 45° angle on both pieces
to form a corner. For best results,
make sure that the bottom of the
crown moulding is upside down (as
installed) on the miter saw.
2. Lay the crown moulding at on the base of the saw. You
will need to make a compound cut to get the pieces to
match. For a 90° corner, set the miter at 35.3° and the
bevel at 30.0°. It is best to cut from scrap to rst to verify
t. Adjust accordingly.
COPING A CROWN MOULDINGS:
Another way to create a corner on crown moulding is run one
piece straight into the corner and miter and cope the adjoining
piece. Use step 1 from above and cut at a 45° angle. Use a
pencil to mark along the front edge of the prole. Use this line
as a guide to cut with a coping saw at a 45° angle. This will
allow for a 90° angle to the moulding that should properly t
against the adjoining moulding.
MO ULDING
Installation instructions
- Fine tooth saw
(higher TPI is better)
- Miter box
- Tape measure
- Hammer
- Nail set
- Glue
- Goggles
- Brad nails
- Wood ller
- Level
- Pneumatic brad nailer*
- Compound miter saw with
80tpi blade or higher
- Coping saw**
HOW TO CALCULATE PROJECT: (HOW MUCH DO I NEED?)
Take careful measurements of the walls that you will be applying the moulding to. Round up each measurement to the nearest
foot. Add up all measurements and add 10% for waste on top of the total number for the correct amount of trim to purchase.
TOOLS NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION:
1) Cut moulding at 45° 2) Cope moulding with coping saw
45° Cut
90° Corner
45° Cut
Inside corner
Outside corner
*= Optional, **= for coping only.