Flowlight Booster Pump Instruction Manual

to get out of the way of flow. Do NOT turn it upside-down, or dirt may fall in when filter is

changed.

NOISE AND VIBRATION IN PIPES (pressure gauge vibrates extremely): One of four vanes

in the pump is broken. Pump head must be rebuilt -- See Rebuild/Exchange Service. There

should be almost no vibration of pressure gauge needle.

FILTER CLOGS FREQUENTLY: (1) INTAKE TOO CLOSE to bottom of well, stream, tank etc.

Raise it as high as feasible to reduce intake of dirt. (2) IMPROVE THE DEVELOPMENT of the

water source -- channel water into a settling tank, clean tank periodically. (3) Install a larger

filter, or plumb two filters parallel to each other.

CLOGGED INTAKE SCREEN: Safety screen is located at the pump intake. Remove large nut

(1300-series) or intake fitting (2500-series or Booster Pump) to inspect and clean screen. (1) IF

YOU DON'T HAVE A CARTRIDGE-TYPE FILTER, INSTALL ONE NOW! (2) If screen is

clogged with fibers from filter cartridge, use higher quality cartridges. (3) If screen is clogged

with rust deposits, replace iron pipe or fittings with plastic, copper or brass. (4) If mineral or

corrosion deposits are clogging screen, install filter as close as possible to pump intake. Ask

local water professionals what type of pipe is least susceptible to mineral accumulation and

corrosion in your area.

FILTER IS CLOGGED AND YOU DON'T HAVE REPLACEMENT: (1) IN-LINE FILTER:

Purchase common "Rust and Sediment" fiber-wound cartridge at local hardware store or

pump/well supplier. (2) 30" INTAKE FILTER: Obtain spares from your dealer, factory or

industrial suppliers. In emergency, purchase 3 ordinary 10" fiber filters (not paper) from local

source. Glue them end-to-end with epoxy and install. (3) TRY BACK-WASHING filter by

blasting it with pressure from the inside. For 30" intake filter, remove check valve and attach

garden hose adapter. Back-washing is effective on coarse, sandy material but is NOT effective

with clay, rust, very fine or sticky deposits.

PURCHASE SPARE FILTERS. NEVER RUN PUMP WITHOUT A FILTER!

LOW FLOW RATE -- PUMP TURNS FAST, DRAWS LOW CURRENT: Pump is worn out from

dirt, rust or other abrasive particles in water, or from cavitation, from running dry, or just from

age. REPLACE PUMP HEAD. See "Rebuild/Exchange Service".

BOOSTER PUMP TAKES LONG TIME TO REACH CUT-OFF PRESSURE: (1) If pump spins

fast, see above entry. (2) If pump rotation slows way down as pressure builds, wire is too small.

Consult low voltage wire size chart or ask your dealer for correct wire size.

LOW FLOW RATE -- PUMP TURNS SLOW, DRAWS HIGH CURRENT (may run hot, may

blow fuses): Pump is hard to turn due to: (1) EXCESSIVE VERTICAL LIFT, beyond system's

capacity: Trade pump head for lower volume model, or increase size of solar array if it will not

overpower the motor -- see Specifications Chart. (2) MISALIGNMENT: Pump plate was

removed from motor and not readjusted after assembly. See "CHANGING PUMP HEAD

POSITION", p.5. Check rubber shaft coupler for damage. (3) MINERAL DEPOSITS: Turn

shaft with two fingers. Will be hard to turn. Use vinegar, or whatever solution works to dissolve

the mineral deposits in your plumbing. Remove pipes from pump and allow solution to circulate

through pump by turning it backwards. If this doesn't work, or if pump has been damaged,

replace or rebuild.