Flowlight Booster Pump Instruction Manual

PUMP CYCLES ON AND OFF ABOUT EVERY 20 MINUTES: MOTOR IS OVERHEATING.

Thermal switch on back of motor is working. (1) HIGH CURRENT DRAW: See above. (2) NO

VENTILATION: Motor must have FREE AIR FLOW to prevent overheating. Do not wrap with

insulation. (4) Motor is exposed to sun or other heat source -- keep it cool. (5) BAD THERMAL

SWITCH: Motor should shut off at approximately 140 degrees F. If motor smells or is too hot to

hold your hand on for 3 seconds, replace thermal switch and check for overheat damage. If

motor is not getting so hot (you can hold your hand on it for 5 seconds) replace thermal switch.

NOTE ON BOOSTER PUMP: STANDARD MODEL may overheat if run continuously (periods

over 20 minutes) at pressures exceeding 50 PSI. This may happen while running irrigation.

Observe pressure gauge and open valve(s) for higher flow so that pressure drops below 50 PSI,

or reduce your pressure switch setting. The thermal switch protects the motor from damage.

BOOSTER PUMP CYCLES ON AND OFF EVERY FEW SECONDS (PRESSURIZING

SYSTEM): PRESSURE TANK MUST be used with system. Pre-charge tank via air fitting to 2

PSI less than cut-in pressure (that's 28 PSI air in a 30-50 system). Turn power off and release

water pressure before setting pre-charge. Modern "captive air" tank will not need pre-charging

again. GALVANIZED TANK (without air bladder) MUST BE RECHARGED with air about once

per year as air dissolves into water. Use tire pump or compressor.

BOOSTER PUMP TURNS ON PERIODICALLY WHEN NO WATER IS BEING USED. (1)

Water is leaking somewhere after the check valve (check valve must be installed at pump

outlet). (2) Check valve leaks internally. Foot valve, if present, also leaks.

LOW FLOW RATE -- PUMP TURNS SLOW, MOTOR COOL: (1) Voltage at motor measures

lower than voltage at source: WIRE IS UNDERSIZED. Consult wire size chart or ask your

dealer. (2) See next entry.

SLOWPUMP RUNS TOO SLOW OR STALLS IN LOW LIGHT (Array-Direct, Non-Battery

System): (1) Solar array or wire is undersized. (2) Linear current booster or similar matching

devices needed to prevent stalling when array current is less than pump requires. Contact

dealer or factory. (3) Current booster not "tuned" properly (if it has an adjustment). Set

screwdriver adjustment for peak performance in LOW LIGHT conditions. See current booster

instructions. (4) Pump may be drawing too much current -- Test: Connect pump to battery(s) of

proper voltage. Measure current draw (amps) and flow rate. Check against chart (Watts = Volts

X Amps). See "Low Flow Rate/Slow/High Current" above, if not close to specifications.

PUMP WON'T TURN, shaft coupler can't be turned by hand. Should blow fuse or breaker: (1)

After a period of disuse or storage, parts may lock up. Grab shaft coupler lightly with pliers and

try turning it backwards. (2) Debris jammed in pump. Disconnect plumbing, pour water into

outlet, and run pump IN REVERSE (by reversing polarity). Watch for debris exiting inlet. Check

performance -- damage is likely. (3) See "Pump Frozen".

PUMP JAMS, MAKES CRUNCHING NOISES, black material in outlet: Internal parts are

broken, either by debris in pump, severe freezing, external shock or just bad luck. See

"Rebuild/Exchange Service".

WATER DAMAGE: MOTOR SUBMERGED OR DRIPPED ON. Inspect brushes and

commutator. If in very poor condition, motor may be beyond repair. Contact factory. If motor

was not run wet for very long, it may need only new bearings, available from factory or from any