Flowlight Booster Pump Instruction Manual

motor repair shop or bearing supplier. Rough commutator must be turned (resurfaced) on a

lathe. This may be done by a machine shop or electric motor shop. CORRECT THE CAUSE of

damage. If your water level is too unstable, contact your dealer or factory about a submersible

pump.

RUSTY BEARINGS: (1) PUMP HEAD: Steel ball bearing is visible at pump head shaft. Rust

caused by water drip or submersion. Pump head must be rebuilt to replace the bearing (see

Rebuild/Exchange). (2) MOTOR: Replace with DOUBLE SEALED "R8" bearing (front) and

"R6" (rear). These are common bearings available from automotive or electric motor suppliers,

or factory. Any mechanic can do this. (A puller tool or a press is needed for removal.)

PUMP FROZEN BY LOW TEMPERATURE: (It should blow fuse or breaker.) Allow it to thaw.

Observe/test performance. If damaged, replace or rebuild. Check all plumbing for damage and

leaks and protect from future freezing.

RUBBER SHAFT COUPLER FAILURE: MISALIGNMENT between pump and motor shaft due

to removal of pump plate from motor and reassembly without readjustment. See "CHANGING

PUMP HEAD POSITION" on p.5. Replace rubber "spider". Inspect metal coupler halves for

damage and replace if worn. These are common parts available from any electric motor shop,

machine shop, or heating/air conditioning supply, or from factory. Coupler parts will last

"forever" if alignment is correct.

MOTOR BRUSH PROBLEMS: Motor brushes are carbon rods that make electrical contact with

the spinning copper "commutator" on the motor shaft. The two brushes are accessible by the

plastic screws near the rear of motor. They MUST slide in and out very easily -- a spring

pushes them in as they wear. Brushes must be at least 3/8" long (longer on motor larger than

5” diameter). They generally last about 5 years, unless motor has been wet inside (see

"WATER DAMAGE"). Retighten plastic screws gently!

(1) WORN BRUSHES: Call dealer or factory for replacements.

(2) STICKING BRUSHES: Inspect inside each brush holder with flashlight. Clean if corroded

or dirty. If brushes still don't slide in/out without friction, sand down two of the long sides of

brush VERY slightly.

(3) BRUSH SPRINGS WEAK, wire looks overheated: Motor overheated (severe overload, lack

of fuse protection). Replace motor and correct the cause.

(4) BROKEN BRUSH HOLDER: Repair with epoxy, or replace (contact factory). Glue it to

motor shell with EPOXY PUTTY, carefully mixed. To insure proper position, remove rear plate

of motor to see that brush sets into perfect position as glue sets. Glue must be hard and strong.

(5) COMMUTATOR PROBLEMS may be caused by poor brush contact, overheating or water

damage: Com is visible thru brush holders or Booster Pump cooling slots. The wearing surface

should be smooth, with a uniform brown color. If it looks good, DO NOT sand it or do anything to

it. Commutator damage may require resurfacing on a lathe. A local electric motor repair shop or

automotive electric shop can perform these repairs.