Specifications

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Stolen from traxxas forums - http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?8895582-E-Revo-FAQ-amp-

Tutorials

E-Revo FAQ & Tutorials

CONTENTS:

1. Chassis

2. Transmission

3. Drive shafts

4. Bulkheads

5. Shock towers

6. Differentials

7. Knuckles & suspension

8. Skid plates

9. Steering mechanism

10. Wheels and tires

11. EVX, EVX2 & MMM speed controller

12. Nimh Batteries

13. Titan & NeuCastle motors

14. V-twin concept

15. BL system upgrades

16. Lipo & A123 batteries

17. Chargers & balancers

1. Chassis

E-Revo & BL E-Revo

Stock E-revo uses a monocoque type molded chassis with integrated battery

compartments, greatly increasing the overall strength and rigidity of the truck. The

downside is that you are rather limited on the type and size of batteries that you can use.

7 cell side by side nimh packs fit fine, but you are restricted to 8000mah 2s, or 5000mah

3s lipo packs. In theory this sounds fine, but in reality if you are using a powerful BL

motor and esc setup, you are forced into buying pricey high spec packs made from

Enerland cells; you may not get such good results from over spec’d cheap Chinese cells

that perform well with stock electronics or lower powered BL systems. Although the

chassis is made from plastic so far there it has proven itself to be a quite robust design,

thanks largely to the clever and rather beautiful skid plate that runs the full length of the

chassis’ underside, tying it together with the bulks and skids. One potential weak area

that has become apparent is the rear portion of the chassis that links to the bulkheads is

prone to excessive flex if you jump the truck or bash hard. There is a fairly simple fix

for this though & requires minimal modification; a spare suspension tie-rod can be

bolted to the base of the wing mount & then bolted to a small plate attached over the

rear shock-tower, thus stiffening up the chassis greatly. Up-top, the esc and radio are

mounted on the battery compartments, a clever idea since there is plenty of room this

way, but locating the esc in the correct place is critical as the battery leads may not

reach if they are a little short. The BL Erevo has its MMM esc mounted in the best place

to ensure the battery wires will reach- there are dual input connectors for running a pair

of lipos in series ( no extra harness required ordinarily ). It is also worth noting that the

holes in the battery compartments for the battery wires to exit may not line up perfectly

with the battery leads, where they exit the lipo/ nimh packs, so a little light modification

may be required.

Summary of content (23 pages)

PAGE 1
Stolen from traxxas forums - http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?8895582-E-Revo-FAQ-ampTutorials E-Revo FAQ & Tutorials CONTENTS: 1. Chassis 2. Transmission 3. Drive shafts 4. Bulkheads 5. Shock towers 6. Differentials 7. Knuckles & suspension 8. Skid plates 9. Steering mechanism 10. Wheels and tires 11. EVX, EVX2 & MMM speed controller 12. Nimh Batteries 13. Titan & NeuCastle motors 14. V-twin concept 15. BL system upgrades 16. Lipo & A123 batteries 17. Chargers & balancers 1.
PAGE 2
Conversion There are two options, the 2.5 and 3.3 spec revo chassis. The 3.3 would be favourable since the longer wheelbase makes for better handling, and more room to mount the electronics etc.
PAGE 3
and idler gears. The stock slipper uses small pegs inserted into the spur gear and a spring loaded pressure plate to control torque delivery; the problem is too much slippage causes the slipper pegs to melt, and the spur will just spin and spin, without sending any power to the wheels, or the slipper plate will overheat causing the spur gear to melt in the center. Simple solution is to tighten the slipper fully, though this does add more stress to the driveline resulting in broken driveshafts and diffs.
PAGE 4
present are the RC-Monster V2 hybrid diffs, that use 1/8scale buggy or truggy diffs, and fit in the stock bulkheads. You will also require dogbone cups that fit an 8mm output shaft, or the RCM adaptor that allows you to use the stock center shafts instead of dogbones. Another more complicated upgrade option is to modify ( dremel... ) the inside of the bulkheads to accept LOSI LST-2 or Muggy diffs- see the 'Truck Links' page for a link to some guides & examples. 7.
PAGE 5
tires tend to ‘balloon’ in diameter, which can cuase them to tear or fly apart, or at the very least cause loss of control. One solution is to use tire foams, and another is to belt the inside of the tire with thick duct tape (turn the tire inside out and run a couple of strips of tape around the tire, being careful not to overlap the edges which would cause imbalance). Traxxas themselves have introduced a 17mm hex and rims with the Revo Platinum, and this offers users yet another upgrade route.
PAGE 6
so choosing the best for your needs is somewhat tricky sometimes. In general, try to avoid cheap 6 cell shotgun or stick packs form Ebay, as these are assembled using thin tin strips to join the cells. Good quality brands are IB, EP and ENER-G, though there are many others. It is important not to overheat any battery, or to miss-treat it, as this can lead to ruptured cells or blown endcaps. Be sure to observe the correct polarity when building packs from scratch or adding cells to packs.
PAGE 7
wires from the esc to the motor around (outer two ideally, leaving the centre wire alone). You will need to use the same size pinion on both motors, and ensure the mesh is set correctly- use a piece of paper between the spur and pinion as you mesh them together, to prevent them binding too tightly. To get the best performance from a V-twin it is vital to use good batteries, this generally means a pair of 3cell (3s) lipos.
PAGE 8
The stock radio system does a reasonable job with the stock setup, but BL systems tend to create a lot of RF (radio frequency) electrical noise, and Am radios do not react well, with glitching and loss of range & control a common problem. Best solution is to upgrade to an FM radio at the least, or a digital radio is even better, budget permitting. 16. Lipo and A123 batteries Lipo = lithium polymer. They have a nominal (resting) voltage of 3.7v per cell, and a fully charged voltage of 4.
PAGE 9
packs vary, see below: EREVO BATTERY COMPARTMENT MEASUREMENTS A123 cells have a very high energy density like Lipo cells, but are inherently safer and 99% indestructible, so do not have to be used with an LVC (low voltage cut-off) device, and can be charged much quicker given the correct equipment is used. Their resting voltage is 3.4v, which makes a 5s configuration ideal for most applications that would normally use 12~14 Nimh cells, or 4s lipo.
PAGE 10
17. Chargers and balancers Its important to choose a good battery charger that is suitable for charging your type of batteries. Do not go cheap, as you will inevitably want to upgrade to a better & faster charger in a short space of time. Ideally, you will buy a charger that can handle both lithium based and Nimh cells, that way you are ready for a lipo or A123 upgrade in the future without having to buy a new charger.
PAGE 11
What capacity? Capacity is directly linked to runtime- the higher the capacity (measured in milli-amp hours, or Mah) the greater your runtime will be. Lipo cells in general are available upto about 5000mah in capacity, beyond this pairs of cells are used in parallel to increase the Mah, and therefore the runtime. The only downside is that larger Mah cells are also larger in size, and therefore weight (they are still only half the weight of Nimh cells it is worth noting however).
PAGE 12
that 10C packs will drop their voltage heavily when taxed to more than about 12-15C (the typical peak or burst rating of 10C packs). A 25C pack will happily deliver in excess of 35-40C bursts before its voltage output drops, so dont always assume a 10C 8000mah pack will be just as good as a 25C 5000mah pack in a high-drain application; that would be a false economy. For low drain setups however where runtime is more important than current output, you would be fine with the lower spec, higher capacity pack.
PAGE 13
topped up if they haven’t been used for a few days, as lipos do not self discharge half as quickly due to lower internal resistance and superior chemistry. What about series vs parallel? Lipos wired in series (+ to – ) will increase the total voltage. For example, two 2s lipos wired in series will create a 4s lipo. The mah capacity will remain the same.
PAGE 14
2.
PAGE 15
Which brand of esc is best? This used to be a tough call, but at present the Castle Creations MMM ( Mamba Monster (Max) ) is top dog in my opinion. It is a great esc, very smooth, great programming options, and very reliable. Team Tekin have the RX8 esc, aimed at the same kind of market as the MMM- 1:8 scale buggies & truggies, though it is slightly more expensive as Tekin is a racing team, so racing escs will always be aimed more specifically at racers willing to pay a bit more for what they use.
PAGE 16
1 = number of winds or turns, the fewer there are, the faster the motor is (higher kv rating (rpms/volt)). This also means the motor will draw more current, so beware. Y = type of wind. Motors are either Wye or Delta wound. Wye wound motors generate 1.73 times more torque than their Delta equivalent, but are also 1.73 times slower (1515 1 y = 2200kv, 1515 1 d = 4100kv). Longer motors will generate more torque in general, as will larger diameter ones.
PAGE 17
sooner rather than later. A high voltage setup can be just as fast as a low voltage one, generate the same amount of wheelie-popping power, but will also allow you to often use lower spec batteries for the same given power levels. That said, if you simply increase the voltage without changing the motor, there is a higher load on the motor and batteries, which will reduce your runtime.
PAGE 18
What gearing do I use? Gearing is made easy thanks to that nice bloke BrianG: http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_top_speed.html Assuming you are wanting a fun, controllable setup, aim for 40mph with your setup. There are options everything you need to input such as differential ratios, transmission ratios, tire size, voltage, and specific motors.
PAGE 19
can cause the plastic housing to melt; soldering most connections should only take a second or two, to get in there and out again. If you visit Youtube, there are many great tutorials showing how to solder, and how useful tips and info on selecting the right iron etc, so do yourself a favour and study them; in this game, it’s pretty much essential knowledge. Do I need a different radio? Yep.
PAGE 20
Do I need one for each battery? No. Since the LVC is connected between the rx and esc, you can only plug in one lvc device anyway; using a servo Y-harness to connect both lvcs to the rx will cause serious issues.
PAGE 21
Which brand? The most common and simple to install model is the Novak smartstop, in 2s, 3s and 4s flavour. Another good one is the True Rc ‘2s car lipo deep discharge protector’ that works in a similar way. A search of the airplane and heli websites will no doubt turn up other options, but you must be careful with some of them as they are not designed for vehicles that have a reverse throttle setting; this is very true of the Dimension Engineering LVCs. How do I connect it up? Very simple usually.
PAGE 22
4s lipo using a single battery input and dual 2s lipos in series. 4s lipo using a single battery inout and single 4s lipo. 4s2p lipo using a single battery input and a pair of 4s lipos in parallel. Can I use it with Nimhs or A123 batteries? Not required for Nimhs, and A123 type cells operate at a different voltage to lipos, 3.3/3.65v per cell rather than 3.7/4.2v per cell. This means the LVC will kick in much too soon.
PAGE 23
that lights up an LED when the voltage dips below 12v for a 4s lipo (3.0v per cell): BRC Hobbies lipo battey saver http://brchobbies.com/?page=shop&action=additem&item=78 There are also a few similar type items from Swang hobby, True RC and Maxamps: Hobby Hot voltage checkers http://www.hobbyhot.com/battery-accessories-checker-plugs-c-209.html TrueRC Voltage Checkers http://home.comcast.net/~truerc/du.