Instructions for use

41
ENGLISH
Pull the saw out toward you, lower the saw head down toward the
workpiece, and slowly push the saw back to complete thecut.
Do not allow the saw to contact the top of the workpiece while pulling out.
The saw may run toward you, possibly causing personal injury or damage to
theworkpiece.
Mitre Crosscut (Fig. P)
The mitre angle is often 45° for making corners, but can be set anywhere
from zero to 50° left or 60° right. Proceed as for a straight verticalcrosscut.
When performing a mitre cut on workpieces wider than 51 x 105mm that
are shorter in length, always place the longer side against thefence.
Bevel Cut (Fig. A1, A2)
Bevel angles can be set from 49° right to 49° left and can be cut with the
mitre arm set between 50° left or 60° right. Refer to the Features and
Controls section for detailed instructions on the bevelsystem.
1. Loosen the bevel lock knob
31
, and move the saw to the left or right as
desired. It is necessary to move the fence
11
to allow clearance. Tighten
the fence adjustment knob
10
after positioning thefences.
2. Tighten the bevel lockfirmly.
At some extreme angles, the right or left side fence might have to be
removed. Refer to Fence Adjustment in the Adjustments section for
important information on adjusting the fences for certain bevelcuts.
To remove the left or right fence, unscrew the fence adjustment knob
10
several turns and slide the fenceout. The fence lanyard
36
prevents the
fence from being removed completely from the saw or being lost.
Once the bevel operations are completed, reposition the fences.
Quality of Cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables, such as the
material being cut, blade type, blade sharpness and rate ofcut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a
sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce
the desiredresults.

WARNING: Ensure that the material does not move or creep while
cutting; clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full
stop before raising arm. If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear
of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where
the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape
whenfinished.
Non-Through-Cutting (Grooving and Rabbeting)
Your saw is equipped with a grooving stop
28
, depth adjustment
screw
27
and wing nut
26
to allow for groovecutting. Instructions in the
Crosscuts, Bevel Cuts and Cutting Compound Miters sections are for cuts
made through the full thickness of the material. The saw can also perform
non-through cuts to form grooves or rabbets in thematerial.
Grooving (Fig. A1, A2)
Refer to Grooving Stop for detailed instructions for setting depth of cut. A
piece of scrap wood should be used to verify the desired depth of cut.
1. Hold the wood firmly on the table and against the fence
11
. Align
the cut area underneath the blade. Position the saw arm fully forward,
with blade in down position. Turn on the saw by squeezing the trigger
switch
22
shown in FigureA2. Smoothly, push saw arm rearward to cut
a groove through the workpiece.
2. Release the trigger switch with the saw arm down. When saw blade has
completely stopped, raise the saw arm. Always let the blade come to a
full stop before raising thearm.
3. To widen the groove, repeat steps 1–2 until the desired width
isobtained.
Clamping the Workpiece (Fig. B)

WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure
before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed. An
unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is attached to,
such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become
unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is
firmly bolted to a stable surface. Personal injury mayoccur.

WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of
the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to
the base of the saw – not to any other part of the work area. Ensure
the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of thesaw.

CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce
the risk of personal injury and workpiecedamage.
Use the material clamp
37
provided with your saw. The left or right fence
will slide from side to side to aid in clamping. Other aids such as spring
clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes and
shapes ofmaterial.
To Install Clamp
1. Insert it into the hole behind the fence. The clamp should be facing
toward the back of the mitre saw. The groove on the clamp rod should
be fully inserted into the base. Ensure this groove is fully inserted into
the base of the mitre saw. If the groove is visible, the clamp will not
besecure.
2. Rotate the clamp 180° toward the front of the mitresaw.
3. Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use the fine
adjust knob to firmly clamp theworkpiece.
NOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling.
ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK
THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH
THE ACTION OF THE SAW ORGUARDS.
Support for Long Pieces (Fig. D)
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONGPIECES.
For best results, use the DE7023-XJ or DE7033 leg stands
39
to extend
the table width of your saw. Support long workpieces using any
convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends
fromdropping.
Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes And Other
Four-Sided Projects (Fig. Q, R)
Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a “feel” for
your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one shown
in FigureQ.
Sketch 1 in FigureR shows a joint made with the bevel adjustment method.
The joint shown can be made using eithermethod.
• Using bevel adjustment:
- The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing a
90°corner.
- The mitre arm is locked in the zero position and the bevel
adjustment is locked at 45°.
- The wood is positioned with the broad flat side against the table
and the narrow edge against thefence.
• Using mitre adjustment:
- The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the broad
surface against thefence.
Cutting Trim Molding and Other Frames (Fig. R)
Sketch 2 in FigureR shows a joint made by setting the mitre arm at 45° to
mitre the two boards to form a 90° corner. To make this type of joint, set the
bevel adjustment to zero and the mitre arm to 45°. Once again, position
the wood with the broad flat side on the table and the narrow edge against
thefence.