Midi-Lathe Instruction Manual

VEE GROOVES

Cutting the vee groove demands much the same technique

as the bead, except the skew is hinged straight into the

workpiece without rotation (Fig. A27). Only one-half of the

vee is made at a time, and one, two, or more cuts may be

needed on each side to obtain the desired shape. As in all

cutting with the skew, the bevel next to the cut must be

used as a fulcrum. Be careful not to allow full edge of the

chisel to catch and cause a run. You can also make Vee

grooves with the toe of the skew, in the same manner as

squaring an end.

LONG CUTS

Convex or straight-tapered surfaces usually require long

cuts. With a convex surface, the method used in making

the finishing cut is shown in Fig. A28. Turn the gouge on

the tool rest so that it will be inclined toward the direction

that it will move. The grind is tangent to the workpiece, and

the center point of the cutting edge is the contact point

with the wood. As the cut progresses toward and around

the end of the curve, gradually raise the handle and swivel

it to the right (Fig. A29) to maintain the tangency between

the grind and the workpiece .

Figs. A30 and A31 show the cutting of a long taper with

a skew. The operation differs from smoothing a cylinder

only at the start of the cut. Make the starting cut with the

heel (Fig. A30) to prevent the tool from digging into the

workpiece. As the tool moves down the workpiece, pull the

chisel back to allow the center point of the cutting edge to

cut. However, you can make the full taper with the heel. Be

careful not to cut too deeply at the center of the taper. The

direction of cutting is always downhill.

Fig. A27

Fig. A31

Fig. A28

Fig. A29

Fig. A30

COVE CUTS

Second to forming a perfect bead, the cove or concave

cut is the most difficult to master. Make this cut with the

gouge, where the size of the tool depends on the size of

the cut. Push the gouge directly into the workpiece to

remove the surplus stock (Fig. A32).

Fig. A32