Energy Guide
3
Sill Plate
You are likely to have a gap in your basement where the sill plate rests on the top of the concrete foundation. If you have
an unfinished basement, these gaps will be evident. If you have a finished basement with a dropped ceiling, you may still
be able to remove the ceiling tiles to access the sill plate and the foundation.
1. Using GREAT STUFF
™
Gaps & Cracks Insulating Foam Sealant, insert the straw
into the gap and slowly fill the void.
2. Continue to move the can as you foam.
Rim Joist
The rim joist caps the end of the floor joists, forming a box. This is the area where the
siding typically ends, which is why it is a primary source of air infiltration into the house. To identify the rim joist, look up
to where the basement wall meets the basement ceiling. The rim joist may already be insulated with fiberglass batt insula-
tion, or it may not be insulated at all. In either case, the rim joist should be air sealed and insulated with GREAT STUFF
™
Gaps & Cracks.
1. Use a ladder to investigate what the area looks like at the end of each floor joist.
Remove any existing insulation from the rim joist area.
2. If batt insulation will be used at the rim joist, use GREAT STUFF™ Gaps & Cracks
to seal the four intersecting edges of each rim joist “box.”
3. A better insulation option is to cut pieces of foam board, such as STYROFOAM™
Brand Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) Foam Insulation up to 2 inches thick or
THERMAX
™
Insulation up to 4 inches thick, to fit in each rim joist “box.” In the
U.S., STYROFOAM™ and THERMAX™ thicknesses greater than 2 inches and
4 inches respectively, require a thermal barrier over the exposed insulation.
In Canada, ALL exposed foam requires a thermal barrier unless it is a finished
ceiling. After installing the foam board, use GREAT STUFF
™
Gaps & Cracks to
seal around the four edges of the foam board.
4. Seal around all wires and pipes that penetrate the rim joist.
A recent study conducted by Dow
revealed that, by sealing the sill plate/
rim joist penetrations, homeowners can
begin to see, on average, pay back after
9.4 months and $44 in annual savings.*
* In this study, conducted by Dow and D.R. Nelson & Associates. air loss was measured using blower door tests. Potential energy savings were estimated using REM Home Energy Analysis
Software. Results vary based on construction, style, year built and other unique home characteristics.
HVAC
Your air conditioning system setup might be doing more than just cooling your house.
It might be an air-infiltration culprit.
1. Check the areas where the HVAC ducts enter your living space. Typically, these
ducts extend from the basement up through the first floor.
2. Cover your basement floor before foaming.
3. Seal around all duct penetrations. Position your ladder so that you are not foaming
directly above your head.
Main Electrical Panel
It’s the hub of all electricity in the house and
a large distributor of unwanted airflow.
1. Be sure to turn o the main electrical switch.
2. Stand in front of the main electrical panel
and trace, starting at the top of the panel, and follow the covered wires until the
main electrical supply enters the main floor of the house. Be sure that wiring is
run through a pipe or a protective covering before applying foam.
3. Air seal around the entry hole to the main floor with GREAT STUFF
™
Fireblock
Insulating Foam Sealant.
Note: GREAT STUFF
™
Insulating Foam
Sealants are combustible, so it’s very
important that all electrical switches are
turned off before starting your project.
Also, never apply foam to exposed wire or
inside an electrical box. Be sure that wires
have a protective covering before applying.
BASEMENT or closed crawl space
It’s damp, dark and cold. That’s why it’s an excellent place to seal with GREAT STUFF
™
Insulating
Foam Sealants.