Instructions / Assembly

ManualsBrandsDRICORE ManualsBuilding materialsSMARTWALL 4 in. x 2 ft. x 8 ft. All-in-One Wall Panel with Light Switch Box

DRI8DG: SMARTWALL

Detailed Installation

Faster, More Convenient and Better Results. DRI8DG: SMARTWALL

PATENTED MODULAR WALL SYSTEM

Step 2:

You will need to assess the type of insulation that

your basement currently has and determine how

best to deal with it. Earlier building codes only

required the insulation to go roughly 4’ below

grade (outside ground level). This insulation is

usually installed in a continuous “bag” around the

basement perimeter walls. Because the DRICORE

SMARTWALL system is a Vapour Barrier, you will

need to effectively destroy the vapour you

currently have in place. Simply slicing it is not

effective, to do it properly cut out large sections

of the polyethylene bag, leaving just enough plastic

at the edges to continue to hold the ﬁberglass

batting in place (see photos below) If your

basement has a framed wall section 4’ below grade

with insulation batts installed between the studs,

you can either remove the stapled on vapour

barrier, leaving the studs and insulation in place, or

to save space, you can fully remove the vapour

barrier, insulation and studs and install your

DRICORE SMARTWALL closer to the concrete wall.

Code Compliancy:

Always check your local requirements with

reference to building codes and electrical codes.

DRICORE SMARTWALL panels are designed around

National Building and Electrical Codes, and should

be acceptable to most State, Provincial, County

or Municipal codes. It is recommended that all

projects be done under both a proper Building

Permit and a proper Electrical Permit. This is for

your protection, giving you the peace of mind that

your renovation project has been done correctly

and safely. If you are having trouble achieving

Code Compliance, please contact us directly at

1-866-767-6374.

Save These Instructions

We recommend taping these instructions inside a

closet area or to the back of an exposed wall panel

section where they are easily accessible.

Step 1:

Install the 2 x 2 cleating material around the room.

Start at the ﬂoor joists that make up your basement

ceiling, attaching the 2 x 2 cleats using 2 ½” #8

wood screws. Start with the cleats that will run

perpendicular to your ﬂoor joists. Leave enough

room to clear any obstructions that may exist

on your job, such as plumbing, plumbing stacks,

uneven walls, etc. For installing the cleats that will

run parallel to the ﬂoor joists, you may need to

install blocking between two ﬂoor joists to provide

a surface to attach your top cleat to. Blocking, if

required, should be spaced no wider than 24” apart.

The top cleats may be installed touching in the

corners.

Once all the top cleats are installed, drop a plumb

line from each end of each wall, and mark the

ﬂoor surface. From this mark, measure into the

room 2 3/8” and mark the ﬂoor again. These are

the marks you will use for the chalkline, so make

them bigger and clearer so not to confuse with

the original plumb line mark. Do this at each end

of each wall. Chalk line between these marks, and

then install the bottom cleats using the appropriate

length of concrete nail or screw, depending on

your ﬂooring application (Subﬂoor installed, no

subﬂoor installed, PWF construction etc). Make

sure you level the cleats using shims if needed since

almost all basement ﬂoors will slope toward the

ﬂoor drain area, and level cleats will ensure the wire

channels align perfectly. Also, if the cleats are level

each panel should then be the same height, which

simpliﬁes your cutting the panels to the required

height. Also, in the corners of the bottom cleats,

when turning a corner do not butt the cleats tight.

Leave a 2” space between the two cleats.

At this stage, if you are constructing under a

Building Permit, you would call for your initial

framing inspection.