589 Automatic double-chainstitch buttonholer Operating instructions 1 Installation instructions 2 Service instructions 3 Postfach 17 03 51, D-33703 Bielefeld Potsdamer Straße 190, D-33719 Bielefeld Telefon + 49 (0) 5 21 / 9 25-00 Telefax + 49 (0) 5 21 / 9 25 24 35 www.duerkopp-adler.
Anleitung, komplett / Manual, complete 589 Übersicht Summary Bedienanleitung Aufstellanleitung Serviceanleitung Operating instructions Installation instructions Service instructions Bauschaltplan Interconnection-diagram 9870 579020 B 9870 579020 B Postfach 17 03 51, D-33703 Bielefeld • Potsdamer Straße 190, D-33719 Bielefeld Sprache: Deutsch / Englisch Telefon +49 (0) 521 / 9 25-00 • Telefax +49 (0) 5 21 / 9 25 24 35 • www.duerkopp-adler.
Foreword This instruction manual is intended to help the user to become familiar with the machine and take advantage of its application possibilities in accordance with the recommendations. The instruction manual contains important information on how to operate the machine securely, properly and economically. Observation of the instructions eliminates danger, reduces costs for repair and down-times, and increases the reliability and life of the machine.
General safety instructions The non-observance of the following safety instructions can cause bodily injuries or damages to the machine. 1. The machine must only be commissioned in full knowledge of the instruction book and operated by persons with appropriate training. 2. Before putting into service also read the safety rules and instructions of the motor supplier. 3. The machine must be used only for the purpose intended. Use of the machine without the safety devices is not permitted.
Contents page: Preface and general safety instructions Part 1: Operating Instructions Class 589 1. 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 Product description Designated use . . . . Brief description . . . Subclasses . . . . . . Product structure. . . 2. Technical data . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 3. 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 Operation Needles, yarns and gimps . . . . . . . . . . . . Removing and replacing the clamp plates . . . Changing the needle . .
Contents page: 9.3.2 Selecting a parameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.4 Sewing process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.4.1 Switching on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.4.2 Sequence mode and single-button mode . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.4.2.1 Selecting a sequence (sequence mode) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.4.2.2 Selecting a buttonhole (single-button mode) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.4.
1. Product description 1.1 Designated use The DÜRKOPP ADLER 589 is an automatic sewing machine designed for sewing buttonholes in light to medium-heavy material. Such material, which is generally made of textile or synthetic fibres, is used in the clothing industry. This sewing machine can also be used to produce so-called technical seams.
– – – – – – – – – – – The use of step motors confers great versatility. No use of control cams. One-pedal operation for the following functions: - close/open clamps - switching on the sewing process - rapid halt with needle lift Pneumatically-operated thread-trimming system with short drive distances for precise operation. Pneumatic buttonhole slit. Central oil-wick lubrication from two oil reservoirs. Flexible cutting (two lengths preset, with/without eye). Seam-width alteration in the cross tack.
1.3 Subclasses 589-212000 With short trimmer for the upper and bobbin threads. The bobbin-thread trimmer is located in the throat plate, enabling the thread to be severed very close to the material. Flexible cutting (two lengths preset, with/without eye). For taper, round and cross tacks. Can also be used for double-chainstitch eyelets in conjunction with appropriate sewing apparatus. Fitted as standard with an electropneumatic upper thread catcher. No lower gimp.
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2. Technical data Head: class 589 Stitch type: double chainstitch Number of needles: 1 Needle system: 579 Needle thickness: max. Nm 125 (depending on the subclass) Upper-thread thickness: max. Nm 50 Bobbin-thread thickness: max. Nm 30 Max. Speed: 2200 rpm Stitch distance: 0.5 - 2 mm Max. sewing length: (depending on sewing apparatus) 32 mm (subclass 589-212000) 32 mm (subclass 589-221000) Max.
3. Operation 3.1 Needles, yarns and gimps Needles Needle system: 579 Needle thicknesses: Nm 90-125 depending on the type of thread and material and the sewing apparatus (E no.). The needle thickness to be used for each machine and its sewing apparatus (E no.) is given on the nameplate. Yarns The appearance of the buttonhole is greatly affected by the yarn used. Synthetic-fibre yarns or even silk yarn can be used as the needle and bobbin threads.
3.2 Removing and replacing the clamp plates 1 23 1 Caution: danger of injury The clamp plates 1 must be removed and replaced with the machine switched off or in the “Safe Stop” position. Inadvertently operating the pedal with the main switch turned on may lead to damage or injury. Removing the clamp plates – Slightly raise the right or left (depending on the subclass) clamp plate 1 and remove it forwards. – Slightly raise the other clamp plate 1 and remove it forwards.
3.3 Changing the needle 1 2 3 Caution: danger of injury The needle must be changed with the machine switched off or in the “Safe Stop” position. – – – – – 12 Undo screw 1. Pull the needle 2 out of the needle bar. Push the new needle as far as it will go into the hole in the needle bar. Align the needle 2 so that its throat points forward and the surface 3 on the needle piston to the left (in the direction of the attachment screw 1). Tighten screw 1.
3.4 Threading the upper thread 1 Caution: danger of injury The upper thread may only be threaded with the machine switched off or in threading mode (see “threading mode” section). – – – – – Thread the upper thread as shown in the illustrations. To thread the upper thread insert the threading wire (in the accessory kit) upwards through the hollow needle bar 1 from below. Place the top end of the upper thread in the hook. Pull the upper thread down with the wire.
3.5 Threading the bobbin thread 1 2 Caution: danger of injury The bobbin thread may only be threaded with the machine switched off or in threading mode (see “threading mode” section). The machine must be in its final position, i.e. the hook turret with loopers must point forwards. – Remove clamp plates (see section 3.2). – Swing machine up. – Use the threading wires in the accessory kit to thread the bobbin thread as shown in the illustrations.
3.6 Threading the gimp thread (only 589-221000) Gimp 1 589-221000 Caution: danger of injury The gimp thread may only be threaded with the machine switched off or in threading mode (see “threading mode” section). – – Thread the gimp thread as shown in the illustrations. Leave about 25 mm of bobbin thread hanging out of the gimp hole in the throat plate.
4. Thread tension 4.1 Needle and bobbin-thread tension 1 2 3 4 The thread tensions depend on the type and quality of the yarn and material. The thread tension should be the minimum at which the appearance of the buttonhole is satisfactory. With thin material excessive thread tensions may cause unwanted gathering and thread breakage. Upper-thread tension The upper-thread tension must generally be set higher than the bobbin-thread tension.
4.2 Bobbin-thread-tensioning spring 1 2 3 4 5 1 Caution: danger of injury The thread-tensioning spring may only be adjusted with the machine switched off or in the “Safe Stop” position. The deflection and pre-tensioning force of the thread-tensioning spring 1 affect the bobbin-thread tension and thus the shape and purling of the buttonhole. Adjusting the deflection: – Undo screw 2. – Twist bracket 3. – Tighten screw 2. Adjusting the pre-tension: – Undo screw 5. – Twist bracket 4. – Tighten screw 5.
5. Changing the cutting blocks 1 2 Two cutting blocks are available. The cut length can be changed by switching cutting blocks. Caution: danger of injury Cutting blocks may only be switched with the machine switched off or in the “Safe Stop” position. Removing the cutting-block – Remove clamp plates (see section 3.2). – Remove the cutting-block 1 by raising it at the position indicated by the arrow. Fitting the cutting-block – Insert the cutting-block in the cutting-block holder 2.
6. Spreading the workpiece 1 2 1 3 Where cutting precedes sewing the incision opens to enable the piercing needle to sew the left and right seam rows cleanly without piercing the cut edge of the material. On machines where cutting follows sewing the material is kept taut for the sewing process. A spread of 1.5 mm is normally sufficient. The workpiece is spread just before sewing begins. The clamp plates are forced apart by the two pins 1.
8. Switching on - Switching off - Safe Stop 1 8.1 8.2 8.3 Switching on Switching off 2 – – The sewing-drive switch 1 must be in position 1. Turn on the main switch 2. The Dürkopp Adler logo briefly appears. The opening screen appears. – Turn off the main switch 2. All drives and the controller are immediately disconnected from the power supply. Safe Stop Before any work is carried out on the machine it must be switched off or the safe stop mode activated. Push the pedal back.
8.4 Switching threading mode on and off Caution: danger of injury For threading either the machine must be switched off or threading mode must be activated. – – – – 9. Push the pedal back. The hook turret is rotated to the optimum threading position. The thread tensioners are opened. Turn switch 1 to position “0". This message appears. Thread the upper or bobbin thread. Turn switch 1 to position “I”. After a short pause the machine switches to sewing mode. The machine is ready for operation.
9.2 Operating the controller Display OK key Entry field key function ï ð In the main menu: switch from one buttonhole program to another If an entry field is activated: switch from one position to another. Where functions have a number of selection possibilities: switch from one to another, e.g. from “cut before sewing” to “cut after sewing” or “no cut ”. 22 ò ñ If no entry field is activated: switch from one menu line to another. The selected line appears on a dark background.
9.3 9.3.1 Changing parameter values Numerical values Numerical values can be changed in the following way: – Use the ñ and ò cursor keys to select the line containing the value you wish to change. – Press the enter key. The cursor flashes under one digit of the numerical value. – Use the ï and ð cursor keys to move from one digit to another. Use the ñ and ò cursor keys to increase or reduce the value of the selected digit. Where parameters are limited to certain values (e.g.
9.4 9.4.1 Sewing process Switching on Number of buttonhole sequence Buttonhole shape Buttonhole sequence Rotation speed buttonhole length cut mode Piece counter – – – 9.4.2 Turn on the main switch . The Dürkopp Adler logo briefly appears.. The main screen appears. Press the “RST” key on the operating panel. The machine moves to the insertion position and is ready for operation. A sketch of the buttonhole to be sewn first appears in the left half of the display.
9.4.3 Changing buttonhole parameters The main parameters of the buttonhole are displayed on the main screen. Changing the parameters – Use the ñ and ò cursor keys to select the line containing the parameter to be changed. – Press OK. – Change the parameter value. – Press enter to accept the changed value. – If the new value is not to be accepted, press “ESC”. 9.4.
9.5 Sewing The sewing process can be controlled with the pedal, the hand switches or the “RST” and “ESC” keys on the operating panel. In automatic operation the machine moves to the new insertion position after each sewing process (sequence mode). In manual operation it moves to the insertion position of the current buttonhole (sequence and single-button mode). 0 1 2 0 R Sewing with the pedal – Push the pedal back. The machine moves to the insertion position. – Insert the material.
9.6 Changing a buttonhole program A B C D Up to 50 different buttonholes can be programmed in the buttonhole programming menu. The various parameters of each buttonhole shape can be changed. A sketch of the current buttonhole shape is shown in the left half of the display. If the ñ and ò cursor keys are pressed to switch from one buttonhole parameter to another in the right half, the current measurement is always highlighted in the sketch.
meas. a kl l qb ql qs qv x y designation stitch distance taper tack length length cross tack length lateral cross tack position stitch distance in the cross tack seam extension eye shape eye shape NB: Not all symbols are displayed, only the ones that are important for the pertinent buttonhole type. Symbol Parameter Meaning Buttonhole number The number of the buttonhole to be processed. If a new buttonhole is selected, a * appears before its number.
Symbol Parameter Meaning Intermediate fabric This parameter changes the intermediate-fabric type. Taper tack length In buttonholes with taper tacks, the length from the tip of the taper to the end of the taper (measurement kl). The minimum taper tack length is 2 mm. When changing the buttonhole length please ensure that the maximum sewing length is not exceeded. This can occur with taper-tack buttonholes as the length of the taper tack forms part of the sewing length.
9.7 Buttonhole sequence The 589 controller can be programmed with up to 25 sequences of buttonhole shapes. Each sequence can contain up to 5 buttonholes. – Press “S”. The controller switches to the buttonhole-sequence programming menu. – To program or alter a buttonhole shape press “P”. – To leave this menu press the “ESC” key. 9.7.1 Selecting a buttonhole sequence – The number of the selected sequence is displayed behind this symbol.
9.8 Piece counter General The 589 machine is equipped with a piece counter. The piece counter counts the number of buttonholes sewn, not the number of buttonhole sequences sewn. The current piece-counter value is displayed behind the “S” symbol. Switching the machine off does not affect the piece-counter value. The piece counter counts up to a maximum of 65000 buttonholes. When this value is exceeded, counting begins again at 0.
9.9 Buttonhole and sequence programming: a brief description 9.9.1 Selecting a buttonhole number – Push the pedal back: the cloth carrier plate and hook turret move to their starting positions – Press “P”: The display switches from sewing mode to buttonhole programming mode. In this mode the buttonhole parameters can be changed. The buttonhole number line appears on a dark background. If you wish to change the buttonhole displayed, skip to section 9.9.2.
9.10 Setting buttonhole sequences: a brief description 9.10.1 Selecting a buttonhole sequence – Push the pedal back: the cloth carrier plate and hook turret move to their starting positions. – Press “S”. The display switches from sewing mode to sequence mode: in this mode sequences can be programmed. The line sequence number appears on a dark background. – If you wish to change the sequence displayed, skip to section 9.10.2.
10. Error messages 10.1 Pressure monitor The pressure monitor monitors the pressure of the air supply. If the pressure is inadequate this warning message appears in the display. Fault rectification – Switch the machine off. – Ensure that the air pressure is adequate. – Switch the machine on again. 10.2 Firm hold When the machine is in firm hold mode this warning message appears in the display. 10.3 Error messages If an error or fault occurs, a window containing an error code appears.
11. Maintenance Caution: danger of injury Maintenance work may only be carried out with the machine switched off. The utmost care must be taken when carrying out maintenance work that requires the machine to be running. 11.1 Cleaning A clean machine is a trouble-free machine. Daily cleaning: – The looper, thread trimmer, throat plate and sewing head areas must be cleansed daily of lint, pieces of thread and other debris. 1 1 2 3 – Check the water level in the pressure regulator every day.
11.2 Lubrication 1 2 Check the oil level in oil reservoirs 1 and 2 every week. Caution: danger of injury Oil can cause skin eruptions. Avoid protracted contact with the skin. In the event of contact, thoroughly wash the affected area. CAUTION: The handling and disposal of mineral oil is subject to legal regulation. Deliver used oil to an authorised collection point. Protect your environment. Take care not to spill oil.
