559 Doppelkettenstich Knopflochautomat Einfachkettenstich Schnürlochautomat Automatic double-chainstitch buttonholer Automatic single-chainstitch eyelet machine Bedienanleitung / Operating Instructions Aufstellanleitung / Installation Instructions 2 Serviceanleitung / Service Instructions 3 Postfach 17 03 51, D-33703 Bielefeld Potsdamer Straße 190, D-33719 Bielefeld Telefon +49 (0) 5 21/ 9 25-00 Telefax +49 (0) 5 21/ 9 25 24 35 www.duerkopp-adler.
Anleitung, komplett / Manual, complete 559 Übersicht Summary Bedienanleitung Aufstellanleitung Serviceanleitung Operating Instructions Installation Instructions Service Instructions Bauschaltplan Interconnection-diagram 9890 580001 B 9890 580001 B Pneumatikgeräteplan Pneumatic circuit plan 9770 559001 9770 559001 Alle Rechte vorbehalten. Eigentum der Dürkopp Adler AG und urheberrechtlich geschützt.
Foreword This instruction manual is intended to help the user to become familiar with the machine and take advantage of its application possibilities in accordance with the recommendations. The instruction manual contains important information on how to operate the machine securely, properly and economically. Observation of the instructions eliminates danger, reduces costs for repair and down-times, and increases the reliability and life of the machine.
General safety instructions The non-observance of the following safety instructions can cause bodily injuries or damages to the machine. 1. The machine must only be commissioned in full knowledge of the instruction book and operated by persons with appropriate training. 2. Before putting into service also read the safety rules and instructions of the motor supplier. 3. The machine must be used only for the purpose intended. Use of the machine without the safety devices is not permitted.
Index Page: Preface and general safety hints Part 1: Operating Instructions cl. 559 (Edition: 07/2007) 1. 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 Description of product Use in accordance with the requirements Brief description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Subclasses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Structure of product . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2. Technical data . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 3. 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.
Index Page: 10.3 10.3.1 10.3.2 10.3.3 10.3.4 10.3.5 10.4 10.4.1 10.4.2 10.4.3 10.4.4 10.5 10.5.1 10.5.2 10.6 Main level of the menu system . . . . . . . . . . Direct editing of the values in the main level . Selecting the buttonhole program . . . . . . . . Adjusting the thread tension in the main level Adjusting the cutting length in the main level . The counter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Operating the menu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Selection of a menu item . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1. Description of product 1.1 Use in accordance with the requirements The DÜRKOPP ADLER 559 is a sewing automat determined for sewing buttonholes in light to medium-weight material, i.e. fabrics made of textile or synthetic fibers. Such sewing materials are used in the clothing industry. Furthermore, this sewing automat can possibly also sew so-called technical seams.
– – – – – – – – Pneumatic cutting open of the buttonhole. Automatic adaptation of the cutting power of the buttonhole knife dependent on the programmed buttonhole length. Due to the vertically working cutting block support no follow-up work required in case of different cutting block heights. Central oil wick lubrication from two oil reservoirs. Switch at the head cover for moving to the ideal position for threading in. Electronically controlled needle thread tension.
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2. Technical data Machine head: Class 559 Type of sewing stitch: Double-chainstitch Number of needles: 1 Needle system: 558 / 579 Attention! When changing over from one needle system to the other the distance between looper and needle and the adjustment of the needle protection have to be checked in any case (see service instructions). Max. needle size: Nm 80-120 (558) / Nm 90-125 (579) Needle thread size: max. Nm 50 Looper thread size: max. Nm 30 Max.
3. Operation 3.1 Needles, threads and gimps Needles Needle system: Needle sizes: 558 / 579 Nm 80-120 (558) / Nm 90-125 (579) according to the type of sewing thread, fabric and sewing equipment (E-No.). Attention! When changing over from one needle system to the other the distance between looper and needle and the adjustment of the needle protection have to be checked in any case (see service instructions). Threads The look of the buttonhole is essentially influenced by the used sewing thread.
3.2 Removing and inserting the clamping plates 2 1 3 Caution: Danger of injury ! The removing and inserting of the clamping plates 1 has to be done with the sewing automat switched off or in the position “Threading mode” (see chapter “Threading mode”). Remove the clamping plates – Slightly lift the right clamping plate 1 at the back and pull it backwards. Then remove the clamping plate sideways to the right. – Slightly lift the left clamping plate 1 at the back and pull it backwards.
3.3 Needle change 1 2 3 Caution: Danger of injury ! The needle has to be changed with the sewing automat switched off or in the position “Threading mode” (see chapter “Threading mode”). – – – – – Loosen screw 1 (Allen key in the accessories). Pull needle 2 out of the needle bar. Push the new needle into the hole of the needle bar as far as it will go. Align needle 2 in such a way that the hollow groove points to the front and the flat 3 at the needle butt to the left (towards the fastening screw 1).
3.4 Threading the needle thread 1 2 Caution: Danger of injury ! The needle thread must only be threaded in when the machine is switched off or in the “Threading mode” (see chapter “Threading mode”). – – – – – 12 Thread in the needle thread as shown in the illustrations. For threading in the needle thread push the threading in wire (in the accessories) through the hollow needle bar 1 from the bottom to the top. Lead the needle thread behind the looper. Pull the wire with the needle thread down.
3.5 Threading the looper thread Looper thread Gimp thread 1 Caution: Danger of injury ! The looper thread must only be threaded in when the machine is switched off or in the “Threading mode” (see chapter “Threading mode”). The automat must be in its final position, i.e. the looper turret with the loopers has to point to the front. – Remove the clamping plates (see chapter 3.2). – Swivel the automat upwards.
3.6 Threading the gimp thread Bottom thread Gimp thread The looper turret has been turned 90° counter clockwise in order to show clearly the thread guide of the gimp thread. Caution: Danger of injury ! The gimp thread must only be threaded in when the sewing machine is switched off or in the “Threading mode” (see chapter “Threading mode”). – – 4. Thread in the gimp thread as shown in the illustrations. Leave an approx. 25 mm long gimp end hanging out of the gimp hole of the throat plate.
5. Thread tension 5.1 Needle thread and looper thread tension 1 1 The thread tensions are dependent on the type and quality of the threads and fabrics. The buttonhole looks best if it is sewn with the lowest possible thread tension. Too tight thread tensions can lead to undesired ruffling and thread breakage, particularly when processing thin materials. Upper thread tension In general the upper thread tension has to be tighter than the looper thread tension.
1 Looper thread tension – Swivel the machine head up. – Adjust the looper thread tension by means of tension 1. Turn the tension in clockwise direction in order to increase the looper thread tension. Turn the tension counter-clockwise in order to reduce the looper thread tension. – Swivel the machine head down. Caution: Danger of injury ! The looper thread tension must only be adjusted when the machine is switched off or in the “Threading mode” (see chapter “Threading mode”).
6. Changing of cutting blocks and knives 1 2 4 3 1 The cutting length can be altered by changing the cutting blocks. Caution: Danger of injury ! Change the cutting block or the knife only when the automatic buttonholer is switched off! Change the cutting block – Loosen the Allen screw 1 (Allen key in the accessories). – Pull the cutting block 2 to the front and remove it. – Insert new cutting block and push it as far as it will go. – Tighten the Allen screw 1 again.
7. Push button By means of the push button it is possible to control the clamps and to start the sewing operation. According to the adjustment in the service menu (see service instructions) the function is different. 1. Adjustment – Key 1: The clamps are opened or closed respectively. – Key 2: The sewing operation starts when the clamps are closed. 2. Adjustment – Key 1: The clamps are opened or closed respectively. – Key 2: If the clamps are not lowered, they will be lowered now.
9. Switching on - Switching off - Threading mode 1 9.1 9.2 Switching on Switching off – Switch the main switch 1 on. The machine moves to the loading position and is ready for sewing. – Switch the main switch 1 off. All drives and the control are immediately separated from the electric supply lines. Attention! The main switch is also the emergency stop button! When the main switch is turned off, the machine is separated from the power supply! 9.
10. Control LED display Keyboard 10.1 General notes The automatic buttonholer class 559 is equipped with a programmable control. Up to 5 different buttonholes can be defined. It is possible to change between the programmed buttonholes when sewing.
10.3 Main level of the menu system After the automat has been switched on and while sewing the display of the automat indicates the main level of the menu system.
10.3.3 Adjusting the thread tension in the main level In the right field of the display the first two digits indicate the needle thread tension when sewing. This can be adjusted directly from the main level. “F”-key Keys ïð 10.3.4 Keys ñò Press the “F”-key. A value is blinking in the display. Select the first two digits of the right field of the display with the keys ïð . The value of the needle thread tension is blinking. Adjust the desired value with the keys òñ .
10.4 Operating the menu The menu system of the 559-151000 is subdivided in 3 levels. The main level indicates the used buttonhole program, the needle thread tension and the cutting length while sewing. You can change over from the main level to the menu for programming buttonholes. A menu item can include further submenu items. 10.4.1 Selection of a menu item “P”-key Menu item without submenu Keys ñò “OK”-key Menu item with submenus Submenu item 10.4.
10.4.3 List of menu and submenu items Menu item Description 100 Buttonhole number: up to 5 different buttonholes can be programmed. 110 Taper tack selection: buttonholes with taper tack (1), cross tack (2), round tack (3), and without taper tack (0) can be programmed. 120 Length adjustments 121 Sewing length: the sewing length can be set from 6 to 50 mm, depending on the equipment. 121 Eyelet diameter: the internal diameter of the eyelet, depending on the equipment adjustable between 1-7.5 mm.
Menu item 143 Description Eyelet inclination: the buttonhole eye can be slightly inclined to the left or to the right. 150 Throw width: the mechanically regulated throw width (stitch width) can be enlarged up to 1 mm and reduced up to 0.5mm. 160 Cutting adjustments 161 Cutting mode: depending on the sewing equipment, the buttonhole cut can be set either after sewing (1), before (2), or not at all (0).
Menu item Description 190 Round tack adjustments 200 26 191 Number of stitches in the round tack: from 6 to 12 stitches can be set in the round tack. 192 Throw width in the round tack: the throw width (stitch width) for the whole buttonhole (see menu item 150) can be reduced in the taper tack. 193 Seam end position (1 = in the tack, 2 = within the lip) 194 Overlapping in the round tack: overlapping of the seam beginning and the seam end.
Hint! In order to give you a better overview of all the submenus and to facilitate the programming, a quick-reference is accompanying the manual. You can store it above the drawer. 1 10.4.4 Programming a buttonhole taper tack cross tack – Press the “P”-key to get from the main level to the buttonhole programming mode. – Select menu item 100 with the keys ñò. Press the “OK”-key for activating the menu item. Select the buttonhole (P01 to P05) you want to alter and confirm with the “OK”-key.
10.5 Sewing operation 10.5.1 Switching on Field 1 Field 2 – – – 10.5.2 Switch on main switch. The machine moves to the loading position. The main level is indicated in the display. Field 1: used buttonhole program Field 2: The first two digits indicate the thread tension. The last two digits indicate the cutting length of the buttonhole or the internal diameter of the eyelet in mm. Selection of a buttonhole program – – Press the “F”-key. Go to field 1 with the keys ïð.
10.6 Sewing The sewing operation can be controlled either by push button or with the keys “OK” and “ESC” at the control panel. Sewing with the push button With the push button the clamps can be controlled and the sewing operation started. According to the adjustment in the service menu (see service instructions) the function is different. 1. Adjustment (Standard) – Key 1: The clamps are opened or closed respectively. – Key 2: The sewing operation starts when the clamps are closed. 2.
Replacing the knife – Loosen screw 1 and remove the fabric holder 4. – Take out the old knife 2. – Stick the new knife 3 in the groove and snap it off in the arrow direction. – Tighten the screw 1. – Fix the fabric holder using the screw 4. 3 Hint! The knife may not exceed the fabric holder. 1 1 2 4 11. Information messages 11.1 Needle not in basic position If the needle is not in its basic position at the sewing start, the information code in the margin appears.
11.4 Threading mode As long as the sewing automate is in the “Threading mode”, the information code in the margin appears. The sewing automat is in the “Threading mode”, the needle is not in its upper position. Correction – Switch off the “Threading mode” by pressing the button at the head cover. The needle moves to its upper position. – Switch on the “Threading mode” again.
13. Maintenance Caution: Danger of injury ! Carry out maintenance work only when the machine is switched off. In case maintenance work has to be done when the machine is running, practice utmost caution. 13.1 Cleaning A clean sewing automat avoids disturbances ! Daily cleaning: – Clean the zone around looper, thread trimmer and throat plate as well as the sewing head daily from sewing dust, thread tails and cutting waste. If a vacuum cleaner is available, vacuum up the waste.
13.2 Oiling 4 5 Check the oil level in the oil reservoirs 4 and 5 weekly ! 1 Caution: Danger of injury ! Oil can cause skin eruption! Avoid a longer contact with the skin! Wash yourself thoroughly after a contact! ATTENTION ! The handling and disposal of mineral oils is subject to legal regulations. Deliver used oil to an authorized collecting station! Protect your environment.
13.3 Control 1 6 3 2 Caution: Danger of Injury ! Turn the main switch off. The maintenance of the automatic buttonholer must only be carried out with the machine switched off! ATTENTION ! If the automatic buttonholer has not been used for a long time or after assembling the machine, oil the wicks, felts, looper and needle bar components (see Installation Instructions chapter 10).