• Simple Entry Level Construction • Stable Flight Characteristics • Excellent R/C Trainer READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL. Instruction Manual WARRANTY Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification.
Introduction ........................................................2 Precautions ........................................................2 Preparations...................................:...................3 Required Items..............................................................3 Suggested Building Supplies ......................................3 Optional Building Supplies ..........................................4 Building Notes ....................................................4 Adhesives ......
flight instructors are available. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below: Academy of Model Aeronautics 5151 East Memorial Drive Muncie, IN 47302 (800) 435-9262 Fax (765) 741-0057 Internet address: http://www.modelaircraft.org parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you have any questions about building or flying this model, please call us at (217) 398-8970 and we'll be glad to help.
6-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6045) Single-Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312) 30-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6047) Heat Gun (TOPR2000) 4 oz.
•Whenever the instructions tell you to glue pieces together, thin CA should be used. When a specific type of glue is required, the instructions will state the type of glue that is highly recommended. When 30-minute epoxy is specified, it is highly recommended that you use only 30-minute (or slower) epoxy because you will need either the working time and/or the additional strength. Airfoil: A curved structure designed to create lift by the reaction to air moving over its surface. C.G.
Sailplanes are launched by several methods: a giant sling shot called a high-start or a winch which pulls the sailplane up like a kite. Gusset: A brace used to reinforce the joint between two parts. High-start: A device used to launch a model glider like a slingshot. This device consists of a stake, an elastic tube, monofilament line (or string), a parachute or streamer and a ring for attaching the high-start to the glider.
Die-Cut Pattern 7
Start by cutting and placing the longest piece first, working until you are placing the shortest (end) pieces. Glue each piece together using medium CA as you proceed. BUILDING HINT: BUILD THE FORMERS Q 1. Unroll the plan. Re-roll the plan inside out to make it lie flat. Wax paper or Great Planes Plan Protector" placed over the plan will prevent glue from sticking to the plan. If you are unfamiliar with "Built-up" construction, we have found that the following method is very easy and accurate. A.
Q 6. Remove the stabilizer from your building surface. Examine and add thick CA glue to any open joints, then use your sanding block with medium (150-grit) sandpaper to sand both sides of the stabilizer framework smooth. Q 3. Remove the rudder from your building surface. Examine and add thick CA glue to any open joints, then use your sanding block or bar sander with medium (150-grit) sandpaper to sand both sides of the rudder smooth.
CUTTING THE HINGE SLOTS Q 1. Lay the rudder and elevator on the plan sheet and mark the hinge locations. Place the rudder against the finTE and transfer the marks over to the fin. Place the elevator against the stabTE and transfer the marks on to the stab. I..1 2. To cut the slots for the hinges, use the following steps: A. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow siit at the hinge position on the centerline.
trued edge. Apply medium CA to the fuse side where the sheet will contact it. Place the sheet onto the fuse side. FUSE STRUCTURE ASSEMBLY Q Q 6. From another 1/16" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet, trim an angle on an end close to 45°, but not quite. Test fit the piece against the first, and make sure the sheet fully covers the forward fuse side. Glue the sheet to the fuse side using medium CA. Q 1.Test fit the die-cut 1/8" ply former F2 in place on the right fuse side.
Q 9. Cut two 7" long pieces from the 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" balsa stick. Glue the pieces to the upper inside edge of the fuselage in front of F2 using medium CA. Q 10. Once the glue sets, use your sanding block or bar sander with medium (150-grit) sandpaper to sand the sticks smooth. I-] 6. Locate the die-cut 1/8" ply forward fuse bottom. Place the forward fuse bottom onto the fuselage. Set the fuselage assembly upright (in its normal position) on the waxed paper.
sandpaper, round the corners of the fuselage to the shape shown on the cross-sections of the formers on the plan. Shape the nose block to the shape as shown on the plan. PREPARING THE CANOPY Q 13. Use medium CA to glue two pieces of 3/16" x 3/16" balsa stick into the corners between the fuse bottom and the fuse side between formers F2 and F3. Use medium CA to glue two more pieces of 3/16" x 3/16" balsa stick between formers F2 and F3 along the upper edge of the wing saddle as shown on the plan side view.
Note: The Daydream wing, much like the fuselage, is designed with simplicity and ease of building in mind. Always remember to test fit parts before using glue to make any adjustments for the best possible fit. Q Q 1. Cut the "right wing panel" section from the plan and tape it on your building board. Tape a piece of wax paper or Plan Protector over the plan. Q Q 6. Remove the die-cut 1/16" balsa wing ribs R1 and R2 from the die-cut sheets. Slide the wing ribs into position on the bottom spar. QQ17.
touch or be glued to the ribs. They should be thoroughly glued to the spars. a hobby knife or razor saw. Use your sanding block or bar sander with medium (150-grit) sandpaper to sand the sheeting and the leading edges smooth. 14. Using a Hobby Knife, remove the section of the tip R2 rib between the spars. Q Q 10. Remove the pins holding the wing panel to your building surface. Slowly lift the trailing edge up off the plan, rolling the wing onto the front part of the wing ribs.
on the table, use medium CA to glue the balsa shear webs to the front and back of the spars, between the R3 and R4 ribs, and to the front of the spars from R4 to R8. Q Q 19. Remove the die-cut 1/16" balsa wing ribs R3 through R10 from the die-cut sheets. Slide the wing ribs into position on the bottom spar Glue the wing ribs to the spar and TE sheeting using medium CA. Glue the R3A and R3B wing ribs to the R2 rib of the center panel using medium CA. Q Q 20.
Q 2. Use a flat blade screwdriver to knock out the center of the second R1 ribs between the spars. Q 3. Locate and glue the two die-cut 1/8" ply center dihedral braces together using medium CA or 6-minute epoxy. Note: In preparation for the next step, protect your work surface by covering it with waxed paper or Plan Protector. Q Q 28. Use a razor plane and medium (150grit) sandpaper to sand the leading edge to shape. Use the die-cut LE gauges to check the shape of the leading edge as you work.
together with the brace installed. Once the brace fits, use 30-minute epoxy to liberally cover the brace and the two R1 ribs. Also coat the spars inside the wing by applying epoxy with a stick. There should be enough epoxy that it will "ooze" out of the center of the wing panels. This excess epoxy can be cleaned up using a paper towel and isopropyi alcohol. Use masking tape to hold the two panels together until the epoxy has cured.
8. Elevator bottoms, followed by the top 9. Rudder LE, right side followed by the left sid» 10. Hatch Wing: Tack the covering to the wing tips and leading and trailing edges. Do not shrink the covering until after the wing is completely covered. Do not confuse this procedure with "checking the C.G."That will be discussed later in the manual. 1. 2. 3. 4.
a tape measure to set the stabilizer tips equal distance from the nose. Q 9. Follow the same procedure to install the rudder on the fin. Q 3. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the stabilizer in position on the fuselage, rechecking the alignment before the epoxy cures. Q 10. Reinstall the control horns. Q 4. Remove the covering from the bottom of the fin. Test fit the fin onto the stabilizer. The trailing edge of the fin should align with the trailing edge of the stabilizer.
Q 3. Install the servos using the hardware included with your radio system. Use the plan as a guide to position the servos laterally in the fuselage. Q4. Install the receiver, battery and switch. Use foam to cushion the receiver and battery. 4. Use a hobby knife to sharpen one end of a piece of 3/16" (outside diameter) brass tubing, then use this tubing to cut the pushrod exit holes (you may use a 3/16" drill bit, but the brass tube method gives a much neater cut).
arm. Trim the nylon pushrod 1/2" ahead of the threaded rod.This will allow the threaded rod to be securely attached. Remove the clevis from the servo arm and thread the rod into the nylon pushrod. Reattach the clevis to the servo arm. RADIO SETTINGS RADIO SET-UP 0 9. Repeat steps 4 through 8 for the remaining pushrod assembly. Q 10. Once the pushrods are fully installed, use the remaining 3/16" x 3/16" balsa to make supports for the pushrod tubes.
a slight nose down attitude. Add lead to the front of the fuselage to correct a tail heavy model. Getting the weight farther back helps correct the "nose heaviness." 2-5/8" [67mm] The balance point (C.G. - Center of Gravity) is located under the spar. This is the balance point at which your model should balance for your first flights. Later, you may wish to shift the balance up to 3/8" behind the spar to change the flying characteristics. Moving the C.G.
This means with the transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have control. Have someone help you. Have them stand by your model and, while you work the controls, tell you what the various control surfaces are doing. CHARGE THE BATTERIES Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio instruction manual.
and I will not thereafter perform maneuvers, flights of any sort or landing approaches over a pit, spectator or parking area. forward. The plane should be launched with a gentle push forward. With a little practice you will be able to launch it just the right speed so it soars straight ahead in a long and impressive glide path. Adjust the trims on your transmitter to get the plane to fly straight ahead in a smooth glide path.
your first flights pull the plane back until there is approximately 8 Ibs. of tension. More tension can be used after you get acquainted with the launching procedure. Hold the plane above your head with the wings level and the nose pointed slightly up and directly into the wind. Give the plane a healthy push forward to get it flying and it will climb up like a kite. You should not have to touch the elevator during the launch but use the rudder stick to keep it going straight up.
Thermals are a natural phenomenon that happen outside, by the millions, every single day of the year. Thermals are responsible for many things including forming several types of clouds, creating breezes, and distributing plant seeds and pollen. If you have ever seen a dust devil (which is nothing more than a thermal that has picked up some dust), you have seen a thermal in action. Their swirling action is very similar to that of a tornado's but of course much gentler.
circle you will be swept along with it. Be careful when thermaling that you don't get so far downwind you can't make it back to the field to land. If the sailplane is flying along straight and all of a sudden turns, let the plane continue to bank (you may have to give it some rudder to keep it banking) until it has turned 270° (3/4 of a full circle). Straighten out the bank and fly into whatever turned the plane.
bring the sailplane in for a landing higher or faster than normal to guard against any last minute sink or gusts and dump the extra altitude and speed at the last second. They can also be used to help control your skid. Opening the spoilers will stop the plane from sliding a little quicker. You can also "steer" the plane while it is sliding along the ground. Don't expect to be able to "horse it around" but you can gain valuable inches by using the rudder to guide it toward the spot as it slides to a stop.
top of the slope and "slide" into the top of the slope without encountering any turbulent air. On steeper slopes you may have to be a little more aggressive to get the plane out of the lift. In any case it is a good idea to plan your landing before you launch your plane. DYNAFLITE™ HI-STARTS DYFP8301 (Standard) DYFP8302 (Heavy Duty) In strong wind conditions, you may want to add ballast (weight) to the sailplane to increase its wing loading which increases its normal flying speed.
Dynafilte Skeeter" Versatile, affordable and easy to assemble, the 55.5" span Skeeter will deliver for beginners and pros alike. An S3021 airfoil cuts through the air to gain maximum altitude, whether launched by hand or high start. An allwood weight of just 12 oz. allows it to thermal in a trim, tight spiral, or make use of the gentlest breezes on the slopes. DYFA2014 Dynafilte Talon" No matter if the air's light and the airfield's small — you'll be thrilled with the Talon's speed and maneuverability.