• BUILDS QUICKLY • REALISTIC FUN SCALE® MODEL • HUGE, 89" WINGSPAN (IMAA Legal) READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL. Instruction Manual WARRANTY Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification.
At Dynaflite we take pride in offering kits that are simple and straightforward to build and provide value for your modeling dollar. Because of the size and cost of this model we assume you have built several models and have a general working knowledge of modeling and its terms. If you HAVE NOT built and flown several kits, do yourself a favor - back up and get some experience before beginning this kit. Introduction................................................2 Precautions ..............................
If you are calling for replacement parts, please look up the part numbers and the kit identification number (stamped on the end of the carton) and have them ready when you call. To make your R/C modeling experience totally enjoyable, get assistance with assembly and your first flights from an experienced, knowledgeable modeler. You'll learn faster and avoid risking your model before you're truly ready to solo.
convenience. GPM is the Great Planes® brand, TOP is the Top Flite® brand and HCA is the Hobbico® brand. -(5) 4-40 Metal Solder Clevis (Seven with Flaps) (GPMQ3814) - (5) 4-40 Hex Nuts (Seven with Flaps) (GPMQ3304) 4-6 Channel Radio with One Standard Servo - (2) 4-40 x 12" Wire Pushrod, Threaded One (Three with Flaps) and Five HighTorque Servos.
the pieces as you cut them for later reference. By doing this now, you won't have to splice pieces together later. ADHESIVES This kit is built with three types of glue. Cyanoacrylate: CA glues cure almost instantaneously and are moderately strong. There are different viscosities of CA's intended for different conditions you will encounter when you build. Thin CA is great for "tack-gluing," for glue joints that fit well and for parts that are already joined but need to be permanently bonded.
minute epoxy is the strongest as it allows the epoxy to soak into the wood thoroughly. While itsets within 30 minutes, it is not fully cured for two or more hours. the parts to be glued with accelerator, join them, then add the CA. This way the CA is guaranteed to cure immediately. This prepriming is especially handy when you use thin CA because it will cure before all of the glue soaks into the wood away from the joint.
Die-Cut Pattern Note: If you will be building functional flaps for your Chipmunk, glue in the lightening holes in ribs W4 and W5. CHPGIPW06 1 REQ. Note: This page shows the location of the die-cut parts for the wing. Not all parts are marked on the die sheets. Be sure to mark all parts with a ball point pen prior to removing them from the die sheets. 1/16" X 3 - 3 / 8 " X 16" PLY CHPGW05 2 REQ, 1/8" X 5 - 3 / 8 " X 2 0 - 5 / 8 " PLY CHPGW04 2 REQ. 3/32" X 3" X 18" B A L S A CHPGW03A 2 REQ.
Die-Cut Pattern CHPGF05 1 REQ. 1/8" X 3" X 36" BALSA CHPGF04 2 REQ. 1/8" X 3" X 36" BALSA CHPGF03 1 REQ, 1/8" X 6-3/8" X 25-1/4" PLY CHPGF02 1 REQ. TOP DECK 1/8" X 6-3/8" X 25-1/4" PLY CHPGF01 2 REQ. FUSELAGE SIDE CONTROL HORN MOUNTS 1/8" X 6-3/8" X 25-1/4" PLY Note: This page shows the location of the die-cut parts for the fuselage. Not all parts are marked on the die sheets. Be sure to mark all parts with a ball point pen prior to removing them from the die sheets.
STAB SHEETING 1/16"X3"X30" BALSA SHEETING USE LEFTOVER FOR FIN SHEETING 1. Cut the stabilizer drawing from the fuselage plan and place it on your building board. Cover the plan with Great Planes Plan Protector. Q7. Sheet the stab with 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa on both the top and bottom. Do this with the stab flat on your building board and use care not to twist it as you glue the sheeting into place. Use pieces of leftover 1/16" balsa sheeting to sheet the stab tips. Q 2.
Q 16. Notch the LE of both elevators where shown on the plan and fit and glue the die-cut 1/8" ply horn bases into place. Q 17. Remove the elevators from the plan and rough sand them to the shape shown in the cross-section. Use care not to gouge the ribs. [.-111. Build both elevators at the same time. Cut the leading edges from 5/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa and pin them to the plan.The leftover 5/8" x 1/2" balsa will be used later for hinge blocks. Q 18.
Q 10. Cut the rudder base from the rest of the 1/2" x 15/16" balsa. Glue and pin it into place. 5. Cut and fit the ribs from the remainder of the 3/16" x 3/8" x 24" balsa. Cut the longer ribs first. When satisfied with the fit, glue them into position. I—I 11. The rudder tip leading edge is built up from three laminations of die-cut 1/8" balsa pieces, for a total thickness of 3/8". Glue the three pieces together and pin them in place on the plan, using some leftover 1/16" balsa shims where shown.
Q 1.The fuselage plan is in two pieces. Cut the plan as indicated and tape the two parts together. Cut the fuselage top view from the plan. Cut the drawings for bulkheads B, C, D, F and H from the plan. Place the bulkhead drawings on your workbench and cover them with Plan Protector. [-I 3. Inner bulkhead D has notches cut in the sides for the longerons and longeron doublers. These notches may be cut now or later when the inner bulkhead is fitted to the fuselage side. Q 4.
CUT ALONG EMBOSSED LINE RIGHT FUSE SIDE [-] 7. Locate one of the die-cut 1/8" ply forward fuselage sides. Cut off the front end of this side along the embossed line.This will establish two degrees of right thrust. Note: Only the right forward fuselage side has this cut made. I-J10. Place the right fuselage side over the plan and mark the locations of bulkheads B, C, D, E, F, G, H, HTW and I on the side. Place the left side over the right and transfer the marks to the left side.
t_] 15. Lightly sand the sides of bulkheads F and H to match the slope of the sides. Install them in their proper locations in the fuselage sides and hold them in position with pins. Do NOT glue until later. Q 12. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply fuselage top and bottom decks to the right fuselage side. The parts interlock. Do not glue the bulkheads to the decks. IMPORTANT: Be absolutely certain that the shorter side of the top and bottom decks are glued to the right ply side.
fuselage side view as a guide. These mount blocks are glued to the bottom longeron at an angle to conform to the curve on bottom formers HTW and JTW. Sand the blocks as needed for this angle and glue them to the bottom longeron. Q 19. Cut a stringer from 1/8" x 1/4" x 31" basswood to length and glue into place to the bottom of formers AB and BB.The remainder of this stringer will be used on the top formers. Ql 20.
you will be using the Great Planes Isolation Mount™ you will need to reposition the Mounting Grommets as shown on the plan. Note: Depending on the type of engine you are installing, you may need to add spacers between the engine mount and firewall. Layers of aircraft grade 1/4" plywood (not included) work well for this. The firewall location is designed so that a typical gasoline engine can be mounted on a Great Planes Isolation Mount (GPMA2000, not included). Q 29.
Note: If you will be entering your Chipmunk in IMAA events you need to review their requirements for servo and control linkage sizes. They require high-torque servos on control surfaces and 4-40 size control linkages, with metal clevises. Q 33, Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply and balsa top bulkhead formers AT, BT, IP, (2) CT and (2) DT into position. Note: Make sure that AT follows the angle established for the firewall. Q 31.
1-1 37. Glue two sheets of 1/8" x 3" x 24" balsa together to form a sheet 6" wide. Sand the outer side of this sheet flat and smooth. Cut, fit and glue this sheet into position to the left fuselage side between side formers A and D with the smooth side out. Align the top edge of the sheet even with the top of the top deck. Note: This sheet should extend only to former D and should not cover DD. Wet the sheeting as needed to allow it to bend better. Q 40.
Q Q 1. Lay the right wing plan on your building board and cover it with Plan Protector. Note: It will be easier if you prepare all four leading edge wing skins at the same time. U U 3. Pin the 1/4" x 3/8" x 44" basswood lower spar over the plan. BOTTOM WING SKIN USE LEFTOVER FOR OTHER SKIN 3/32" X 3" X 42" BALSA SHEETING l-l t-l 4. Pin a 1/4" x3/8" x 44" basswood stick on the dashed lines called "shim stick.
plan. There are two doublers for W2. The one with the long cutout is glued to the side facing the wing root. This cutout will lock in the landing gear stub (torque) block. Check the fit of the landing gear block and stub block in their cutouts. Make sure you make a set for the right and left wing panels. Q Q 9. Glue the 1/4" x 3/8" x 44" basswood top spar to the ribs. Q Q 10. Cut a 1/4" x 3/4" x 24" balsa stick to the correct length and glue it to the rear of W8-W12.
Q Q 16. Glue a 3/32" x 15/16" x 24" balsa TE sheet to the inner TE and ribs using aliphatic resin. Note that the sheeting extends from W1 toW7 and is trimmed at an angle. Use your long straightedge to keepWI straight. 13. Glue the 1/4" x 1/2" x 48" balsa leading edge stick to the front of the ribs. Align the top of the LE even with the tops of the ribs. Use a long metal straightedge to get the LE as straight as possible.
1—1 19. Glue the leading edge skin that you prepared in step 2 to the top spar, ribs and LE using aliphatic resin. The sheeting extends to the center of the spar. Ql [-1 24. Glue the landing gear's 5/8" x 1" x 1" maple stub block to W2 using 30-minute epoxy. The block fits into the long cutout in the 1/8" ply doubler. The groove faces W2. I-] Q 20. Using 3/32" x 1/4" x 30" balsa, cut, trim and glue cap strips on the tops of ribsW4 -W12. Cut the longer pieces first. Q Q 25.
U U 27. Using a 1/4" bit, drill a hole through the landing gear rail into the stub block. Radius the top of the hole to fit the bend in the 1/4" landing gear wire. (See the photo at step 26.) U U 1. Prepare the wing panels for joining by cutting a 1/16" wide slot in front of and behind the spars in W1 as shown in the photo. Q Q 28. Glue a 3/32" x 15/16" x 24" balsa TE sheet to the bottom of the inner TE and ribs using aliphatic glue. Note that the sheeting extends from W1 to W7 and is trimmed at an angle.
but it is a bit harder to install this way. Do not sheet the bottom center section at this time. Q 6. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply LE doublers to the rear of the LE between W1 andW2 on both wing panels. [-1 7. Drill two 5/16" holes through the wing LE and doubler where shown on the plan and in the photo. Q 8. Cut two 1/4" x 7/8" x 7/8" balsa blocks from leftover sticks and drill a 5/16" hole in the center of both blocks. LI 3. After the epoxy has cured, slide the right panel back into position.
satisfied with the fit, glue the dowels into the wing with 6-minute epoxy. Use caution not to get any epoxy on the fuselage. Q Q 16. Sheet the area around the servo using leftover 3/32" x 3" balsa.This gives the covering a place to adhere to. Oil-] 17. If you are installing flaps on your Chipmunk, build the flap servo mount between ribsW4 and W5 as you did above for the aileron servo. Sheet the area around the servo. Q 13.
plan as a guide to cut the sheeting to the proper size. Glue this piece to the tops of the ribs. 1-1 Q 22. GlueW2A into position. Sand theTE of the sheeting on the bottom to match the contour of W1,W2 andW2A. Q Q 3. Cut the LE from 1/4" x 3/4" x 24" balsa. Sand the bottom of the LE to match the angle of the aileron ribs at their LE. Glue and pin it to the 3/32" x 1/2" LE sheet. I-] l-l 4. Glue ribs A7 -A12 into place. Q Q 5.
Q [-I 7. Remove the flap from the plan. Carve and sand the top of the LE to match the contour of the ribs. Taper theTE as well. Be careful as it is easy to sand into the ribs. [-I Q 12. Cut four additional hinge blocks from the 1/4" x 1/2" balsa. Glue these into position in theTE of the wing opposite the position of the blocks in the aileron. Q 13. Return to step one and build the left aileron. Note: You must build the flaps even if you will not be installing working flaps.
Q Q 12. Cut four additional hinge blocks from the 1/4" x 1/2" balsa. Glue these into position in theTE of the wing opposite the position of the blocks in the flap. Q 13. Return to step one (1) and build the left flap. [-.I 2. Mark the location of the wing bolt plate on the outside of the fuselage. Mount the wing on the fuselage and align it squarely to the fuselage. This is easily done using a piece of string as a guide. Put a pin in the tail of the fuselage on the centerline.
Q 5. Fit the two die-cut 1/8" ply wing bolt plates for the wing bolt holes onto the bottom of the wing. Glue these into position over the holes with 6-minute epoxy. l—l 6. Enlarge the wing bolt holes in only the wing with a 17/64" bit, drilling through the 1/8" ply plates as well. [-I 12. Glue doubler DB to the front of bulkhead D. Align DB 3/32" above (towards the top of the fuselage) the TE of the wing to allow for the 3/32" balsa sheeting that will be added to the bottom of the fuselage. Q 13.
SIDE SHEETING 1.1/4" 5" 2-1/2" 13-1/2" 31" 36"" 3" Q 2. Add a stringer to the fuselage from former DT to HT. Use the supplied 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" balsa sticks. Cut notches in top formers DT, ET, FT, GT and HT, and add a stringer to each side as shown in the photo above. This will provide a gluing surface where the top sheeting meets the side sheeting. Before sheeting the rear of the fuselage you should decide what technique you would like to use.
clevis (GPMQ3814) at the rudder end and a 4-40 metal threaded clevis (GPMQ3794) at the servo end with a 4-40 hex nut. CJ 11. Fit the horizontal stab to the fuselage. To do this you will need to cut a slot in the stab for the rudder torque rod. Cut this slot spanwise as shown in the photo above. Fit the stab into position centered on the fuselage centerline. Pin it into position temporarily. 1-1 7. Sand the side sheeting fiat across the 3/8" x 3/8" filler strips from DB to EB.
room table for the next steps. Just make sure to cover the table so you don't scratch it or get glue on it, lest - well, you get the idea. Q 18. When the epoxy has cured remove the wing. Bring the model back to your workbench with thanks for the use of the table. Q 15. Next, you will mount the stab to the fuselage, but before doing so you need to look more closely at it. As this is a large model, you should not depend on glue alone to hold the stab in place.
Q 1. Finish the cockpits. The cockpit area was designed to be structure free so you can add as much detail as desired.The simplest is to glue a couple of Williams Brothers pilots to the top deck. The kit includes two instrument panel decals which can be positioned on the front instrument panel and rear former CT, or you can fashion separate instrument panels. Details in the cockpit area will really dress up the appearance of your model. Q 4.
DRILL A 3/32" HOLE 1/2" DEEP, IN CENTER OF HINGE SLOT CUT HINGE SLOT WITH HOBBY KNIFE AND #11 BLADE D. Use a hobby knife with a #11 blade to make the hinge slots.The first cut should be a shallow slit to establish the hinge slot location. After the first cut make several more cuts, going slightly deeper each time. Move the knife from side to side and widen the slot as you cut. B. Drill a 3/32" hole in the center of all the hinge slots to allow the CA to fully penetrate.
to wipe away excess CA. If you spill a few drops of CA on the MonoKote® film you can use CA Debonder (GPMR6039) to remove it. Or wait until the CA fully cures, then carefully lift it off with a hobby knife blade. Do not use accelerator on any of the hinges. Do not glue the hinges with anything other than thin CA and do not attempt to glue one half of the hinge at a time with medium or thick CA. They will not be secure and the control surfaces could separate while the model is flying.
Q 9. Mount the landing gear and 4" wheels (ROBQ1537). Note: Optional landing gear struts are available from Robart that fit this model. These struts not only add a nice touch to the model but help absorb landing stresses as well. Complete instructions from Robart are included. Ul 10. Mount the control horns to the ailerons, flaps, elevators and rudder. Measure the throws at the widest part of the trailing edge of the rudder, elevator, flaps and ailerons.
halves next to the fuselage.The balance point is shown on the plan and is 5-1/2" (140mm) aft of the leading edge. Now that the model is covered and nearly completed, this is the time to balance it laterally (side-to-side). Here's how: Q 2. This is the balance point at which your model should be balanced for your first flights. Later, you may experiment by shifting the balance point up to 1/2" (12mm) forward or back to change the flying characteristics. Q 1.
arm onto the servos and the servo cords are securely connected to the receiver. If you are not thoroughly familiar with R/C models, ask an experienced modeler to inspect your radio installation and make sure the control surfaces respond correctly. The engine must be "broken-in" according to the engine manufacturer's recommendations for break-in. Refer to the Engine Safety Precautions on the next page before you start your engine.
9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind). Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller. The engine gets hot! Do not touch the engine during or immediately after you operate it. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine and cause a fire. RADIO CONTROL 1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground check before the first flight of a new or repaired model. 2.
compensate for engine torque and propeller "P" effect. The tail will rise almost immediately, indicating that the tail surfaces have gained effectiveness. Allow the model to continue to accelerate until it has reached flying speed. Use as much of the available runway as you can. Then, gently apply some up elevator. Your Chipmunk should slowly lift from the runway. Continue straight ahead until you have accelerated to a safe flying speed. Make your first turn away from the spectator and pit area.
Center Pull
TWO VIEW DRAWING Use copies of this page to plan your trim scheme -Out Page
