™ •89” IMAA-legal aerobatic trainer •Selig 8036 semi-symmetrical airfoil for maneuverability & low-speed stability •Performance excels with a wide range of engines READ THROUGH THE PRELIMINARY INFORMATION BEFORE YOU START BUILDING. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS, WARNINGS, AND INFORMATION CONCERNING THE BUILDING AND USE OF THIS MODEL. Instruction Manual WARRANTY Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.
TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION INTRODUCTION .................................................2 PRECAUTIONS...................................................3 PREPARATIONS.................................................3 Required accessories ...................................3 Suggested supplies.......................................4 Building notes ...............................................4 Types of wood ..............................................4 Metric conversions ..........................
modeler. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors if needed. at: (217) 398-8970 or you may email us at productsupport@dynaflite.com and we'll be glad to help. If you are calling for replacement parts, please look up the part numbers and have them ready when calling.
reference as you cut them. By doing this now, you won't have to splice pieces together later. SUGGESTED SUPPLIES We recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ • Do not throw away any leftover material until after you have completed your model. Some small pieces of leftover balsa or plywood are used during construction. 4 oz. Thin CA Adhesive (GPMR5904) 4 oz. Medium CA+ Adhesive (GPMR5910) 2 oz.
METRIC CONVERSIONS 1/64" 1/32" 1/16" 3/32" 1/8" 5/32" 3/16" = = = = = = = .4 .8 1.6 2.4 3.2 4.0 4.8 mm mm mm mm mm mm mm 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" 1" 2" 3" = = = = = = = = 6.4 9.5 12.7 15.9 19.0 25.4 50.8 76.2 mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm DIE PATTERNS 5 6" 12" 18" 21" 24" 30" 36" = = = = = = = 152.4 304.8 457.2 533.4 609.6 762.0 914.
❏ 5. Remove the fin from the building board. BUILD THE TAIL SECTION BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER ❏ 1. Cover the FIN/RUDDER PLAN with Great Planes Plan Protector or wax paper. ❏ 6. If you will be adding flying wires, drill a 5/16" hole in the bottom of the upper rear gusset. Cut 3/8" off one of the 5/16" x 6-5/8" dowels. Using thin CA, glue the 3/8" piece in the hole. ❏ 7.
shape shown. Make sure the “V” is large enough to allow for the specified left and right movement of the rudder (see “SET THE CONTROL THROWS”, page 30). ❏ 10. Round the leading edge of the fin and the top and trailing edge of the rudder. Note: Check the plans to see the location of the dorsal fin and do not sand the leading edge of the fin in that area. BUILD THE STABILIZER ❏ 6. Using two 3/8" x 15/16" x 24" balsa sticks, cut, fit and glue the leading edge and trailing edge. ❏ 1.
❏ ❏ 3. From a 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue the 1/2" elevator ribs and corner gusset to the leading edge. Note: It is important that the trailing edge of the ribs align accurately with the plans. ❏ ❏ 8. One at a time, install the remaining four 1/16" x 3/8" x 24" balsa sticks as you did the first, using medium CA to glue each successive stick to the one applied before it and pressing it in position until the CA dries. Note: Leave some balsa overhang on both ends to be trimmed off later.
W3s (including the two with the doublers) to the paper wing tube. Use your rotary tool to enlarge the holes in the ribs as necessary. When satisfied with the fit, remove the ribs from the tubes and set the tubes aside. BUILD THE WING Note: The airfoil used on this plane is semisymmetrical. We positioned the embossed labels on the die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs so that they are right-side up when the wing is right-side up. This is the easiest way to reference the top and bottom of the ribs. ❏ 5.
❏ ❏ 14. Glue the 1/8" x 3/8" x 42" basswood bottom aft spar in place, being careful to keep the ribs straight over the plans. ❏ ❏ 11. Select two of the four W3 ribs you fitted to the wing tube. Position them in the two W3 locations where the wing tube installs. Glue those two W3 ribs, one W3 (which was not fitted to the tube), three W4 and two W6 ribs vertically to the bottom spar. Glue one W5 with a strut brace and one W5 without a strut brace in the locations shown. ❏ ❏ 15.
❏ ❏ 24. Using a razor plane and/or sanding bar, shape the top of the sub leading edge to the contour of the ribs. Trim the sub leading edge flush with the wing tip rib and the root rib. ❏ ❏ 19. Cut the paper wing tube in half. Insert the aluminum tube inside the paper tube. Using medium CA, glue the paper tube to the four ribs and the ply shear web, aligning the end with the root rib. Remove the aluminum tube from the paper tube. ❏ ❏ 25.
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 3. Using a square to properly align the sheeting with the trailing edge of the wing as shown on the plans, position the sheeting and glue it in place. DO NOT align with the trailing edge of the ribs. (See the cross section of the plans.) ❏ ❏ 6. If this is your second or fourth time through this section, complete the following steps: ❏ ❏ 6a) Cut the 1/4" x 3/8" x 8" basswood stick in half, making two 4" long aileron servo rails. Glue one servo rail in the forward square holes in the W5 ribs.
❏ ❏ 10. Lift the wing off your work surface. If this is your second time through this section, go back to the start of “BUILD THE WING” and build the other wing half. If this is your fourth time through this section, go to “FINISH THE WING”. ❏ ❏ 11. Flip your wing over, aligning the spar over the spar on the plans. Notice how you did not have to move your wing jig -- it still sets the washout for your wing. ❏ ❏ 15. Sand the trailing edge sheeting as shown in the cross section on the plans and in the photo.
❏ ❏ 2. Using the plans and the leading edge gauge as a reference, razor plane and sand the leading edge to shape. BUILD THE AILERONS ❏ ❏ 1. From two 3/32" x 3" x 42" balsa sheets, cut two aileron sheets 18-9/16" long. Pin one in place over the aileron section on the plan. ❏ ❏ 3. Hold the 2-1/2" x 2-3/4" x 14-7/8" balsa wing tip onto the wing tip rib and trace the tip rib onto the wing tip with a pen. Cut the block on the line you drew. ❏ ❏ 2.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE ASSEMBLE THE FIREWALL We tested our prototype Super Decathlons with an O.S.® 1.20 4-stroke and with a 25cc US Engine™. From this point forward when we refer to a glow installation, we are referring specifically to the steps we took to install the O.S. 1.20 4-stroke. Similarly, when we refer to gas installation, we are referring specifically to the steps we took to install the US 25.
❏ 8. Loosely mount the Great Planes 60 - 120 engine mount to the engine mount spacer/firewall with four 8-32 x 1-1/4" socket head cap screws and #8 washers. Slide the mount halves to the widest position, then tighten the mount to the firewall. ❏ 2. Turn over the firewall and draw two straight lines from the outer punch marks. Note: These lines are used for locating the engine on the firewall. ❏ 3. Drill four 7/32" holes at the punch marks. ❏ 9.
GAS ENGINE INSTALLATION The following steps are for a gas engine installation. Skip these 10 steps if you are using a glow engine. ❏ 4. Using a hammer, gently tap four 1/4-20 blind nuts into the back of the firewall. Glue in place with thin CA. ❏ 1. Select the three die-cut 1/8" ply firewall pieces A, B and C. With the embossed labels toward the desk top, laminate B onto A then C onto B, all with 6-minute epoxy. This assembly is now known as the firewall. ❏ 2.
BUILD THE BULKHEADS AND THE FUSELAGE SIDES ❏ 1. Place the FUSELAGE PLAN on your workbench and cover the bulkheads with Plan Protector. ❏ 7. Remove the engine and mount from the firewall. Using your rotary tool, make clearance holes in the firewall for the engine mounting bolts and washers. ❏ 8. Re-attach the engine and mount to the firewall. Note: For clarity, our photos show the fuse components off of the plan, but you should build over the plans. ❏ 9.
❏ 6. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa top longeron and die-cut 1/8" balsa bottom longeron to the fuse sides. ❏ 10. Lift the left fuse side off the right side and lay it down mirrored to the right fuse side. Write “left” on the inside for clarity. Remove both fuse sides from your work surface. Sand the glue joints smooth on both sides of each fuse side. ❏ 11.Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply wing saddle doubler and the two die-cut 1/8" balsa longeron doublers to the inside of both fuse sides.
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE ❏ 1. Pin the die-cut 1/8" ply fuse bottom in place on the top view plans. Note: Make sure the slot in the front of the fuse bottom matches the plan. This slot helps set the right thrust. ❏ 7. Laminate the two die-cut 1/8" ply tail gear mounts. ❏ 2. Fit the fuse sides, bulkhead 3A and bulkhead 4 in place. Use a square to check that the fuse sides are perpendicular to your work surface at 3A. Glue 3A to the fuse sides and fuse bottom.
❏ 13. Sand bulkheads 4, 5 and 6 flush with the top of the fuse. ❏ 14. Turn the fuse upside-down. Glue the servo tray to bulkheads 5 and 6. ❏ 15. Sand bulkheads 5 and 6 flush with the bottom of the fuse. ❏ 19. Turn the fuse right-side up. Laminate the diecut 1/8" ply bulkheads 3B and 3C with medium CA, aligning the bottom corners. ❏ 16. Fit the servo hatch in place, trimming as necessary. Note: The hatch is made oversize to allow for any deviations in building. ❏ 17.
bulkheads, then the first front ply shear web. DO NOT drill through the second shear web. ❏ 22. Fit and epoxy the 1/4" x 1-3/4" x 5-3/4" ply wing bolt plate. ❏ 3. From the 5/16" dowel, cut two 3" pieces. Fit the 5/16" dowel through the hole you drilled. ❏ 4. Drill the second hole the same as the first, making sure the wing halves are still tight against each other. ❏ 23. From a 1" x 1-3/4" x 6" balsa block, shape and glue the filler block to the top of the wing bolt plate. MOUNT THE WING ❏ 5.
❏ 7. On each of the wing bolt plates make a mark 1" from the trailing edge and 2" from the root of the wing. ❏ 9. Drill two 13/64" tap holes at the marks you made on the wing bolt plates through the wing bolt plate. ❏ 10. Remove the wing from the fuselage. Tap threads into the holes in the ply plates in the fuse with a 1/4-20 tap. Apply thin CA to the tapped threads to harden them. Re-tap the threads after the CA has hardened. Hint: Your drill, triggered at a slow speed, works well as a tap driver. ❏ 8.
SHEET THE TOP LINE UP WITH THE WING ❏ 3. Glue the tank floor, with the tank attached, in place in the fuse. ❏ 4. Attach the fuel lines to your tank and route them through the firewall. Note: You may have go up through the front deck plate with the carburetor line. If so, run the line now, then cut the deck plate as needed during its installation to allow for the fuel line. ❏ 1. Mount the wing to the fuse.
❏ 2. From a 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue the four belly pan stringers in place. ❏ 7. Using two 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa sticks, fit and glue the seven front deck stringers in place. ❏ 3. Sand the side stringers to the shape of the sub-formers. ❏ 4. From each of three 1/8" x 3" x 24" balsa sheets, cut a 6-1/4" long piece. Edge glue the three 6-1/4" pieces together, making one 9" x 6-1/4" sheet. Save the three leftover 17-3/4" sheets for step 9. ❏ 8.
❏ 7. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply sub-formers 3, 4, 5 and 6 in place perpendicular to the fuse bottom. Glue the two die-cut 1/8" ply sub-former braces to sub-formers 3 and 4. ❏ 10. Sand a taper on one 6" end of the sheet so that when the sheet is positioned on sub-formers 5 and 6 the tapered end of the sheet fits flat against the fuselage bottom. ❏ 8. Glue the four 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa stringers in place. Sand the stringers to the shape of the sub-formers.
❏ 12. Trim the sheeting and sand the edge to the angle of the sub-formers. ❏ 15. Round the edges of the belly pan sheeting to shape. ❏ 13. Glue the third 1/8" x 3" x 7-5/8" sheet to the side of the sub-formers and to the center of subformer 5 (front to back). Trim this sheeting flush with the bottom sheeting. Use the leftover piece to sheet the other side. ❏ 16. Epoxy the 1/8" x 3-1/8" x 7-1/2" ply landing gear plate in place inside the fuse. ❏ 17.
horizontally as well. When satisfied with the fit and alignment, glue the stab to the fuselage with 30-minute epoxy. ❏ 3. Cut the 1/2" x 12" balsa triangle stock in half, making two 6" pieces. Glue them to the fuse and the bottom of the stab. ❏ 18. Using four 8-32 x 3/4" bolts, pull four 8-32 blind nuts into the landing gear plate. Glue them in place with thin CA. MOUNT THE TAIL ❏ 1. Sand a flat on the leading edge of the stab so the stab fits flush against bulkhead 7. ❏ 4.
MAKE AND MOUNT THE WING STRUTS ❏ 1. Drill an 1/8" hole which is 3/4" deep in one end of each of the four shaped basswood wing struts. ❏ 6. Laminate two of the die-cut 1/8" balsa top spines, making a 1/4" spine. Laminate the other two, making a second 1/4" spine. Glue the spines to the top sheeting, with the forward edges 1-1/4" from the fuse side and the rear edges against the fin and the forward edge of bulkhead 7. ❏ 2.
❏ ❏ 6. Mount the wing to the fuselage. Screw one of the 6-32 x 1-1/2" studs all the way into one of the nylon strut ends. Mount the strut end (and stud) in the forward hole in the wing. ❏ ❏ 7. Align the strut overlapping the strut end. Make a mark on the strut at the position of the end of the strut end as shown in the photo. Remove the strut. Cut the strut at the mark you made. Drill a 1/8" hole in the end of the strut.
to the two rear halves and test fit it over the front of the fuse. After all the fitting is done, glue all joints with thin CA. FINISH THE WINDSHIELD AND COWL ❏ 7. Cut the holes in the cowl for the engine, carburetor, air inlets and air exit. If you go slowly and remove a little material each time, you will be rewarded with a tight-fitting and good-looking cowl. ❏ 8. Mount the cowl with four #6 x 1/2" sheet metal screws and washers.
FINISHING ❏ 1. Finish the cockpit. The cockpit area was designed to be structure-free so that you could add as much detail as desired. Add neat details such as seats and scale instrument panel by installing the cockpit kit (available separately). ❏ 2. Cover the model. If you prefer iron-on coverings that do not require painting, this type of model lends itself very well to 21st Century Fabric®. This material has a painted appearance with a fabric texture.
BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY PREFLIGHT BALANCE YOUR PROPELLERS Do not confuse this procedure with “checking the C.G.” which will be discussed later in the manual. Many problems are the result of vibration caused by an unbalanced propeller. Nuts and bolts can vibrate loose. Vibration can damage delicate radio components and even damage the delicate glow plug element, resulting in an engine that is difficult or impossible to start.
RANGE CHECK YOUR RADIO When you start and run the engine, keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from the plane of rotation of the propeller. Check the operational range of the radio before the first flight. Before you turn your radio on, the first thing you always must do is make sure no one else is on your frequency (channel). Most model flying fields utilize frequency control so familiarize yourself with their system.
take your Super Decathlon up for the first time and make sure it performs correctly, then give you valuable flight instruction. He can hand you the transmitter when the Super Decathlon has climbed to a safe altitude or connect your transmitter to his if both of your systems have a trainer cord or “buddy box” capability. Assistance from an experienced modeler will make your modeling “career” progress faster (and cheaper). the same basic flying characteristics.
TWO VIEW DRAWING Use copies of this page to plan your trim scheme
