Owner manual

15
15
❏ 5. Install the antenna tube (not included) if you
are using one. I believe this quote is from Dave
Thornburg: “If I catch you running your antenna out
from under the wing and straight back to the tip of
the rudder or stab, I will personally jump up and
down on your Bird of Time until it is no more.
Antennae go inside fuselages, out of the slipstream.”
❏ 6. If you are known for your spear landings, then
you may want to glue the 1/8" ply stiffener in the
rear of the fuselage as shown on the plan.
Otherwise don’t, as every ounce in the tail requires
2-1/2 ounces in the nose to balance it.
❏ 7. Before gluing the top rear fuselage block in
place you should cut the notch for the elastic bands
in the front of the block. The plan shows a suggested
outline. Glue the top rear fuselage block to the
fuselage sides with CA, using the same “squeeze”
technique as you did with the bottom blocks.
❏ 8. Fit the fin into position, trimming as necessary,
and glue it to the fuselage using aliphatic resin glue.
Be sure it is square with the fuselage and aligned
with the fuselage centerline. Check that the dorsal fin
is even with the top of the fuselage. Check that the
elevator linkage is in it’s cutout area and that the
bellcrank still moves freely. Pin the fin in position
until the glue dries.
❏ 9. Insert the 3/32" I.D. brass tube stab pivot
shaft into the hole in the fin hardwood block so that
about 3/16" sticks out from the side with the 1/16"
skin on it. Partially install the stab half with the wires
in position by inserting the large wire in the pivot
shaft and the small wire into the hole in the nylon
swivel clevis. Use the elevator pushrod to move the
linkage up and down, marking the location of the
slot to be cut in the fin skin. After cutting the slot,
push the stab fully into position and move the
linkage throughout it’s full range to check the
clearance of the forward wire in the slot. Remove the
stab, place the other fin skin in position against the
fin and mark and cut the other slot.
❏ 10. Cut a 1/4" long piece of the small aluminum
tube and clean out any burrs. Install this piece in the
holes at the end of the swivel clevis. Install both stab
halves on the fin and make a final check of the
elevator linkage. You should have a total throw of at
least 1/2". Also check the stab is perfectly square
with the fin. If it isn’t, move and twist the fin and
pivot shaft as needed. When satisfied with the fit,
glue the pivot tube in position by putting a drop of
CA on each end where it meets the fin. Be very
careful not to get any glue in the tube itself or on
the wire, unless you don’t mind the stab being
permanently glued to the fin!
❏ 11. Remove the stab and glue the second fin skin
to the fin with aliphatic resin glue. Pin it into position
and then check that the elevator linkage does not
bind on the skin. Make any needed adjustments
before the glue sets.
❏ 12. Add a few more drops of CA to the stab
pivot shaft to insure it is solidly glued into the fin.
Grind the ends of the shaft with a Dremel
®
tool or
file so each side sticks out about 1/16". Drill out the
tube with a 3/32" drill to remove any burrs or glue
from inside the shaft.
❏ 13. Trim the front and rear of the nose hatch
cover to shape. It should be the only piece of wood
left in the box. If it isn’t, now is a good time to find
out why! Drill a 1/8" hole into the front end of the
hatch where shown and glue the 1/8" dowel into
the hole. Align and drill the mating 1/8" hole in the
upper nose block. Tack glue the hatch in position
with CA.
❏ 14. Use a razor plane and knife to carve and
sand the fuselage to the contours shown on the plan.
Sand the rudder and fin to the contours shown. Fill
in around the dorsal fin so that it blends smoothly
with the fuselage.
❏ 15. After a final sanding, remove the hatch and
decide how you will hold it down. We used “J”
hooks and a rubber band. If you are a spear
landing artist it is advisable to cover the nose of the
aircraft with fiberglass back to bulkhead F1.