Instruction Manual by Al Doig
Supplemental Instructions for Bird of Time After producing an initial run of Bird of Time kits Mark's Models has come to a conclusion: Dave Thornburg's concise instructions may be a tiny bit too brief. We have therefore taken the liberty of expanding upon those areas where further clarification might even help experts. WING 1. Join the plan-halves with Scotch tape or rubber cement and tape to the building board - cover left panel drawing with wax paper.
8. Taper the outboard end of the 1/4" I.D. brass wing-wire tubes as shown on section R-R. This will permit the proper angle of dihedral. Sharpen the end of one tube and drill a hole in the proper location in the root AA rib so the tube will Just touch the top spar. Roughen the outside of the tubes with sandpaper. Using the piece of 3/8" sq. X l8" balsa, make the fillers that support the brass tube. Make sure the top filler does not protrude into the spar area. Set aside for now. 9.
18. Unpin the Inboard panel from the building board. Block It up, laying the outboard panel flat on the building board and pin it tightly. Trim and splice another l/l6" X 3" X 36" balsa sheet for the top leading edge sheeting.This sheeting may extend to the end of the tip, if you wish. Glue in place again being careful that the sheeting is snug against the ribs. Glue and pin the l/l6" X 1/4" cap strips in place. When dry remove from the building board. 19.
2. Cover the plan with wax paper. Slide the 3/32" shims under the wax paper at the trailing edge of each of the four ribs. Let it protrude from under the trailing edge 1/8" or so to support the ribs. Do the same at the leading edge using the l/l6" shims. Pin the leading and trailing edges in place over the plan supported by the shims, gluing the leading edge to the tip with Titebond or white glue. 3. Trim the main spar to length from 3/16" hardwood. Taper the outboard 2" symmetrically to 1/8".
2. The rudder is joined and sanded to the airfoil section shown on the drawing. Again, it seems prudent to cut large lightening holes in the rudder. For maximum lightness, a built-up rudder is easily built and is extremely strong. 3. To construct a built-up rudder you will need 3 pieces of l/l6" X 1/4" X 36" balsa, 1 piece of 1/4" sq. X 12" balsa, and some scrap 1/4" balsa sheet (these pieces are not furnished). Glue the 3/8" balsa rudder together and sand the edge to the correct outline.
4. Use either epoxy or Titebond or white glue to fasten the noseblock to the sides. Pin the bottom edge flat to the work surface while drying so fuselage sides will be aligned. 5. Epoxy l/l6" plywood doublers to bulkheads 1, and 2 as shown on the drawing. Drill 1/4" holes and epoxy the 1/4" dowel into the holes. Sand the vee notch into the top of all three bulkheads - notch for Nyrods & antenna, To digress a moment - most contest flyers are occasionally forced to make those point-getting spear landings.
31. Either install the servos temporarily or have a darned good idea exactly where they will go. Install the Nyrod pushrods with the stabilizer horn installed on it's pushrod. Epoxy the 1/8" aluminum pivot tube to the top of the fuselage sides as shown. Make sure It is free with the Intended servo throw. As previously noted, the pushrod should install in the hole giving a 1:1 ratio. Secure the Nyrods in several places using epoxy and microballoons. 12.
