TM PT-19 • BUILDS QUICKLY • REALISTIC FUN SCALE MODEL • HUGE, 89" WINGSPAN (IMAA Legal) READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL WARRANTY Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification.
At Dynaflite we take pride in offering kits that are simple and straight forward to build and provide value for your modeling dollar. Because of the size and cost of this model we assume you have built several models and have a general working knowledge of modeling and its terms. If you HAVE NOT built and flown several kits, do yourself a favor and get some experience before beginning this kit. Introduction ......................................................2 Precautions.................................
1. You must assemble the plane according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos or plan. In those instances the written instructions should be accepted as correct. These are the items "not included" with your kit, that you will need to purchase separately.
IMPORTANT: During construction you will be using a number of balsa sticks to frame various assemblies. Ample material is included but you should study the plans, then make an effort to cut the longest pieces you will need first. Label the pieces as you cut them for later reference. By doing this now, you won't have to splice pieces together later. A flat, durable, easy-to-handle sanding tool is a necessity for building model airplanes.
Never point the tip of a CA bottle toward your face and be especially careful when you unclog a CA tip. Hobbico CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780) are highly recommended and will help keep the bottle from clogging. Keep paper towels or tissues close by to immediately absorb excess CA dropped on your model or work area. Read all the warning labels on your CA bottle. CA Accelerator is a chemical that you can spray over uncured CA to make it cure immediately. A mist spray of accelerator will do the job.
DIE PATTERNS 6
DIE PATTERNS 7
1. Place the fuselage drawing on your workbench and cover it with wax paper from bulkhead D aft. Begin construction by building the right rear side structure. 2. Using two 1 /4" x 15/16" x 42" balsa sticks, cut and fit the rear side stringers. Cut the longest pieces first. Pin and glue the parts into position. 6. Place the right fuselage side over the plans and mark the locations of bulkheads B, C, D, E, F, and G on the side. Place the left side over the right and transfer the marks to the left side.
you made earlier. Before the glue cures, sight across the top of both sides to double check the alignment. 12. Glue bulkhead C to the fuselage sides with 6-minute epoxy. The bulkhead is slightly large so as not to bind on the sides. Use leftover 1/8" x 1/4" balsa sticks to reinforce the bulkhead/fuselage joint as shown in the photo. The 1/8" x 1/4" stick above the lower deck is glued to the front of the bulkhead.
needed, to get the center of each bulkhead to align properly. When you are satisfied that everything is aligned properly, glue the tail together. Also glue bulkhead F and G to the fuselage sides. 17. Glue the top ply part of bulkheads F and G into position. Note that the top part of F goes in front of the lower part of F. The rear of the top part of G goes 1/2" in front of the lower part of G. 18. Cut three 1 /4" x 1 /2" x 24" balsa sticks to a length of 19".
25. Use 1/8" x 3" x 24" balsa to sheet between bulkheads B and C, from the top deck down. Soak the outside of the sheeting with water as needed to get it to bend around the curves. Thin CA works well on damp balsa. cutting the sheeting to length as the leftover will be used in the next step. You will have to soak the sheeting with water to get it to bend properly. A small amount of ammonia or 50% alcohol added to the water will help to soften the wood fibers.
31. Glue the 1/4" x 1/2" x 42" balsa stringers to the fuselage sides. Set the fuselage aside until later. It will be completed after the wing and stabilizer are built. If you have not done so already, now is a good time to obtain a mount for your engine. If you will be using a two or four stroke engine a Great Planes 60-120 mount (GPMG1091) will work well. If you will be using a chainsaw type engine you will probably need a spacer behind the mount. 3.
LE even with the tops of the ribs. Use a long metal straightedge to get the LE as straight as possible. IMPORTANT: Use a straightedge along the sides of W1 and W11 to insure that they are straight and flat. 12. Glue the 3/32" x 3" x 24" balsa lower trailing edge sheet to ribs W1 -W6 using aliphatic resin. Use a long straightedge to insure that the ribs are even and straight and that W1 remains flat. 7. Glue ribs W2-W11 into place on the lower spar with a drop of CA.
23. Fit and glue the 1/8" die-cut ply webs to the front of the landing gear rail using 30-minute epoxy. The webs should fit tightly between the ribs, sheeting and landing gear rail. 16. Prepare the 1/4" x 3/4" LE that you installed in step 11 for sheeting. Carve and sand the LE to blend with the tops of the ribs. Use masking tape on the ribs so that you don't alter their shape. 24. Using a 1 /4" bit, drill a hole through the landing gear block into the stub block.
27. After the glue has dried, turn the wing over and fit and glue a 3/32" x 15/16" x 24" sheet to the trailing edge between W5 and W11 with aliphatic resin. You will have to trim the 3/32" x 3" sheet installed in step 12. 28. Trim the LE and TE sheeting even with ribs W1 and W11. Sand the tip and root of the wing so that it is smooth and flat. 32. Cover the tops of ribs W7-W11 with masking tape. Use a long T-bar sander to sand the top of the wing tip so that it is parallel to the top surface of the wing.
39. Measure the distance under the left wing tip at the bottom of rib W11. If it is 8-3/4" you have exactly 6 degrees of dihedral in each panel. Don't be concerned if it is a little off as the dihedral angle is not at all critical. If it is off by more than 1 /2" you might want to find out why, but you don't really need to fix it. When you are satisfied, glue the dihedral braces to the left wing panel with 30-minute epoxy. 35. Build the left wing panel. 36.
12. Repeat steps 1 - 11 to build the left aileron. 2. Cut the lower TE sheet from a 3/32" x 3/4" x 24" balsa stick and pin it to the plan. 13. Cut six additional hinge blocks from the 1 /2" x 5/8" balsa stick. Glue these into position along the inside edge of the TE of the wing opposite the position of the blocks in the aileron. 3. Cut the LE from a 1 /4" x 3/4" x 24" balsa stick. Glue and pin it to the 3/32" x 1/2" LE sheet. 4. Glue ribs 6 - 1 1 into place. I 5.
11. Cut the elevator tips from 5/8" x 15/16" x 6" balsa. Glue and pin them into position. 12. Glue and pin the shaped balsa elevator roots into position. 6. Cut and fit the ribs from 1/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa. Cut the longer ribs first. When satisfied with the fit, glue them into position. 13. Cut some shims from 3/16" x 3/8" x 24" balsa and place them in position over the plan at the TE. NOTE: It is important that the ribs fit the LE and TE well.
3. Cut the fin post (trailing edge) from 3/8" x 15/16" x 30" balsa and pin it in position. 4. Cut the fin base from the 3/8" x 15/16" x 30" balsa and pin it into position. Glue all three pieces together. 5. Cut and fit the ribs from 3/16" x 3/8" x 24" balsa. Cut the longer ribs first. When satisfied with the fit, glue them into position. LI 18. Cut the tip shape from the plan and position it over the stabilizer. Use the 15" marks, LE and TE as a guide. Cut the stab and elevator tips to shape.
12. Build three shims from leftover 3/32" and 1/16" balsa to create 5/32" thick shims. Place the shims into position over the plan and then glue and pin the TE into position. 13. Cut and fit the ribs from 3/16" x 1 /2" x 30" balsa. Cut the longer ribs first. When satisfied with the fit, glue them into position. NOTE: It is important that the ribs fit the LE and TE well. It is not important that each rib fit the exact location shown on the plan. a 14.
12. Enlarge the wing bolt holes in only the wing with a 1/4" drill, drilling through the 1/16" ply plates as well. 8. Align the wing squarely on the fuselage. This is easily done using a piece of string as a guide. Put a pin in the tail of the fuselage on the centerline. Tie a loop in the end of the string and place it over the pin. Move the other end of the string to one wing tip and put some masking tape around the string. Draw an arrow on the tape where it reaches the wing tip.
18. Sheet the bottom center of the wing. 19. Attach a cap strip to the top and bottom of all the ribs using 3/32" x 1/4" x 30" balsa sticks. Cut the longer pieces first. 25. Use leftover 1/8" ply to make a bulkhead where the leading edge of the wing meets the fuselage. First fit it to the bottom surface of the wing, then use a pencil to draw the outline where it meets the fuselage. Now trim this former to shape allowing for the 3/32" sheeting that will be used to fair the wing to the fuselage. 20.
2. Cut the stab mounts from 1/4" x 3/4" x 30 balsa and glue them securely to the fuselage. 5. Cut two 10" pieces from a 3/8" x 3/4" x 24" balsa stick. These are the fairing blocks. Tack glue them into position on the shims and carve the assembly to shape. When you are satisfied with your work, remove the fairing blocks and shims from the fuselage. Clean up the stab mounting area. 1—1 3. Use leftover 1/8" sheeting to sheet below the stab to the stringer with the grain running vertically.
8. Glue the fin and fin fairing blocks into position with 30-minute epoxy. Be sure the fin is perpendicular to the stab and aligned with the fuselage centerline. Position the mount on the plans at the firewall then locate the engine on the mount to fit the front of the cowl properly. Check the position on the model to be sure blind nuts and bolts will clear the structure. 9. When the epoxy has cured, remove the wing. Fill in and blend any areas that need it with leftover wood and hobby filler.
7. To drill the mounting holes in the cowl use the cardboard technique again. Tape some cardboard to the fuselage side and mark the center of the mounting blocks. Slip the cowl into position and mark the location of the holes. Drill 3/32" holes through the cowl and blocks, then remove the cowl and enlarge the holes in only the cowl to 1/8". Mount the cowl with #6 x 1 /2" sheet metal screws. 18. Hinge the control surfaces.
TEMPORARY PIN TO KEEP HINGE CENTERED You may cover and finish your model now if you desire. We prefer to install the radio before finishing so we don't add any hanger rash to our finished model. Our radio installation consisted of the following: C. Join the elevator to the stab with the hinges. If the hinges will not stay centered, insert a pin through the center of the hinge, then join the surfaces and remove the pins. D.
(GPMR2400). If the tail drops, shift the receiver and/or battery pack forward (if possible) to balance the model. If the nose drops, shift the receiver and/or battery pack aft. If possible arrange the battery pack and receiver to achieve balance but make sure they remain secure in the fuselage so they cannot shift during flight or a rough landing. If you must add additional weight to the nose or tail of the PT-19 to achieve balance use Great Planes adhesive lead weights (GPMQ4485).
sure the control surfaces respond correctly. The engine must be "broken-in" according to the engine manufacturer's recommendations for break-in. Refer to the Engine Safety Precautions on the next page before you start your engine. After you run the engine on the model make sure all screws remain tight, the hinges are secure and the prop is on tight. Get help from an experienced modeler when you learn to operate engines. Use safety glasses when you operate model engines.
flying safe and enjoyable. We recommend that you join the AMA and a local club so you may have a safe place to fly and insurance in case of a flying accident. If a club flying site is not available, find a large, grassy area at least 6 miles away from houses, buildings, streets and other R/C activity like boats and cars. Avoid flying R/C models near traffic or areas such as parks, school yards, office building lawns, etc. that may attract unrestrained observers (wild kids).
Here is a short list of terms and definitions so you'll know what they're talking about at the flying field. Ailerons -Hinged control surfaces located on the trailing edge of the wing, one on each side, which provide control of the airplane about the roll axis. The control direction is often confusing to first time modelers. For a right roll or turn, the right hand aileron is moved upward and the left hand aileron downward, and vice-versa for a left roll or turn.
Epoxy -A two-part resin/hardener glue that is extremely strong. It is generally available in 6 and 30-minute formulas. Used for critical points in the aircraft where high strength is necessary. Expanded Scale Voltmeter (ESV) -Device used to read the battery voltage of the on-board battery pack or transmitter battery pack. Field charger -A fast battery charger designed to work from a 1 2-volt power source, such as a car battery. Fuselage -The body of an airplane.
NiCd -Nickel Cadmium battery. Rechargeable batteries which are typically used as power for radio transmitters and receivers. Nitro -Nitromethane, a fuel additive which increases a model engine's ability to idle low and improves high speed performance. Ideal nitro content varies from engine to engine. Refer to the engine manufacturer's instructions for best results. Nitro content in fuel is indicated by the percent of the fuel.
