Kit Packing C7 Vette PAC controller Pump w/4 Feet shielded cable 4 Feet 7/16 split loom 6 Feet ¼ split loom 2 long wire ties PAC wiring + DS tape 7 inch hose –6 -6 28 inch hose –4 –4 28 inch hose -4 –4 Methanol Filter 90’ 3/8 –6 fitting 90’ 3/8 –4 fitting MAP Sensor w/regulator Brass T for MAP Bracket to mount pump Cap w/vent Filter clamp + Fuse attach wire Motor Plug C5 style Tank 90 w/seal Nozzle w/washers + adapter Check valve Relay Assembly 12ft red wire Nozzle document PAC document MAP document C7 inst
General Disclaimer: The use of this system is for Off-Road use only. It is intended for racing on a closed course under supervision. Under no circumstance will Alkycontrol INC be liable for any damages stemming from the use of this product. Use at your own risk. Observe posted speed limit signs. Use common sense. Handle fluids being used with the system with care. What fluid to use? The tuner will setup what is the best fluid given the particular goals trying to be achieved.
Alky Pump install Important notes… Do Not Mount pump with head facing upwards as this will allow water to collect inside sleeve and ruin motor. Please install as pictured, It can also be installed horizontally as long as the pitch does not allow water to collect in sleeve. Any question..
C7 Corvette installation instructions 1) The pump installation You first need to gain access to the tank by dropping the drivers side inner fender. There are some clips you need to remove using a flat screwdriver, you will also need to unsnap a molding on the drivers side fender to gain access to a few T15 torx fasteners. Once the inner fender liner is removed, you will note the factory reservoir. Next I pull the motor out from the reservoir and unsnap its electrical connector.
I use a Uni-Bit that its largest size is 7/8. These are available from most hardware stores. Harbor Freight as well. Try and get any slivers of plastic as the hole is drilled. Then put grommet into hole, lube WD40 the grommet and push the barb in facing forward. At this point install the grommet into the washer motor hole, and push the barb in to seal it. Next is we need to get the pump cable into the cockpit of the car. On the drivers side kick panel there is a rubber grommet which provides perfect access.
Now the pump we need to attach the supplied steel bracket and get rid of the mounting plate it has. Once the bracket is mounted to pump, install the 90 degree pump fittings in by hand. Note the inlet fitting will face towards the frame and the outlet fitting will point straight up. I feed the 28 inch hose from the top of the drivers fender by the brake boosterand now thread it onto the outlet fitting. Tighten it as access will be hard once pump is set in place.
Next is attach the white wire to a chassis ground. A simple 5/16 self tapping screw to the plate handles this. Plug the pump harness into the pump. We are done with the inner fender portion of the install. 2) Filter and Nozzle The filter has an arrow. It indicates flow direction. It goes in the pressure side between the 2 28 inch supplied hoses. And uses the clamp to mount to a suitable location.
The nozzle goes installed in the charge pipe after the MAF sensor. Not before. *Note this particular picture shows an IAT Breakout Kit added. To do so, first is mark where the hole will be before removing the charge pipe. Next is drill hole into charge tube 3/8 diameter and clean up the hole from debris. The nozzle has two washers included. If nozzles are going into aluminum, the rubber washers help seal the nozzle. First step is you must have a washer on the inside. Period.
and fill tank with liquid being used. IE methanol. Check for leaks. If none.. you may go ahead and install the inner fender and put the wheel back on the car. Only other under-hood issue you may have is attaching the boost line reference. This concludes the under-hood portion. 3) Relay The relay will be installed in the rear of the car by the fuse box. It has 4 wires, red with an O-ring goes to the power lug, long red wire goes to red spade terminal on controller. Gray goes to trigger on fuse box.
4) PAC wiring Under the drivers side sill plate you will note the main grounds. Perfect place to attach the black wire from the PAC controller4. I also used this ground for the black wire from the 2 bar MAP sensor.
The LED for turnon must be mounted in a visible location, one option is drilling a small hole using a ¼ drill and mounting in in the dash.
A less intrusive location is to use some heat shrink and mount it right above the vent as shown below. At this point I have the pump cable under the dash, the LED wires, the map sensor, and the controller.
5) Under Dash wiring This maybe a good time to take a break, wash hands, the easy part begins. This is just guidelines from numerous installations I have done. The sky is the limit on creativity, and this should only be used as reference for what I have done, has been easy, and has worked. Important note: The Turn-on LED is not resistor protected. Do not connect to 12v. Not even for a split second. The first thing I always do is visually place where the location of the “turn-on” LED will be located.
PAC terminal wiring instructions The following pictures show how to connect the pump cable wiring to the PAC controller. Tools needed 1)Heavy duty set of crimpers(available through Home Depot, NAPA, Sears, Klein, BluePoint, etc.) Do Not Use Cheap made in China crimpers….
Step 1 Strip insulation from end of pump cable and separate wires. Note there are three wires. Red, Black, bare wire. Strip insulation Red and black wires. About ¼ inch is fine. And use the small supplied Male spade terminals. Crimp the terminals from the bottom as shown. Step 2 Slide large black heat-shrink over terminals and cable. Next is slide white heat-shrink over Bare wire, slide Red heat-shrink over Red wire. Slide Black heat-shrink over Black wire.
Step 3 Apply heat to the heat-shrink. Step4 Slide large heat-shrink over entire connections Step 5 In the event more than one wire will be attached to the Red wire. Example Map sensor regulator, use the larger supplied Male spade that can accommodate larger wire and assemble as stated above. I mounted the PAC controller up and behind the dash above the hood release cables. The MAP sensor in my case also was installed there.
7) The gray/violet wire Be careful on how this wire is to be used, most applications will not benefit from it being connected. Here’s the principle and connectivity. The violet wire while a ground is applied will limit the pressure output of the system. And its only use is to help assist with spool-up while brake torque is applied to spool the turbo in a racing application. So here are some ideas and methods to connect the wire for this feature to be present.
If these tests are passed, then your ready for a road check. And on your maiden voyage bring the boost up slowly and as the gauge goes past 4 PSI boost, the turn-on LED will illuminate. If it doesn’t, do not continue the test and see why the MAP sensor isn’t working. This is very important. If it does work correctly, then proceed to increase the boost level observing how the engine feels and assure there is no surging when the system is spraying.
www.alkycontrol.com PAC- Progressive Alcohol Controller Introduction The PAC is a versatile electronic motor controller using pulse width modulation technology. It allows the user to custom tailor voltage output to the injection pump being used so that it increases pressure with the increase in voltage output coming from the vehicle MAP sensor. Recommended that vehicle have a 3 bar map sensor for better voltage control. Will support any injection pump rated up to 15 amps.
Green is connected to the MAP sensor signal wire. On in the case of Ford vehicles.. MAF Gray is an auxillary output that will switch + voltage when system activates. Examples to run a solenoid driver relay module, input to external boost controller, etc.. typically not used Orange/Brown twisted go to the Turn-on LED. These wires will flip polarity when pressure is developed. Suggestion is to place turn-on LED near boost gauge to indicate system has activated.
Tuning suggestions First, best place to tune an alcohol system is the race track under closed track conditions. I do not recommend hi-speed testing of products on public roadways where you or others may be indanger. Also no expressed liability is expressed with the use of this product. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. Ok, we’re ready. Set pump gain knob to 6 and bring turbo up to your initial PSI setting(recommend ½ half of factory boost setting) see if LED illuminates, if not re-calibrate setting in main controller.
Adding gain to the knob(clockwise) increases pump pressure output. If the knock is occurring due to transitional, increasing initial pump speed or decreasing turn-on point will aid these conditions. Again every vehicle is different, the initial and turn-on will more than likely never be recalibrated once system is setup. They will not correct a tuning problem and/or engine fault. Timing suggestions, Low timing and high boost.
Auxiliary Intake Air Temperature Sensor (Optional): IAT Breakout: Both wires on the IAT sensor harness are reverse polarity. On the MAF sensor locate and cut the White/Light-Blue wire in pin #1 on the MAF sensor and the Black/Violet wire in pin #3 on the MAF and connect those to the wires from the IAT sensor harness using the supplied connectors.
Install IAT rubber grommet by drilling a 5/8” hole in the charge pipe AFTER the Alky nozzle so when the methanol sprays it hits and reads the IAT sensor. Install and plug IAT sensor and replug MAF sensor. Complete.
