Install Instructions

The insulation of the complete length of the outdoor piping is optional, except
in areas of extreme cold. Insulation of the piping is best accomplished by the
use of a maximum of
1
/2” thick polyethylene foam (PEF) insulation, such as
the “Tundra
®
” insulation available at most hardware stores. (Unlike berglass,
polyethylene foam insulation is not affected by water). The addition of the
1
/2”
thick PEF jacket will greatly improve the freeze protection capability and energy
efciency of any installation; the associated energy savings and enhanced pipe
freeze protection will more than offset the small cost of that insulation.
If uninsulated, the water supply pipe should be buried in at least 3” of topsoil or
sand. Any sections of pipe exposed to the elements should be insulated and
protected from wind, as the “wind chill factor” can be a serious impediment to
the performance of the heating cable. For example, a large drainpipe can be
used to protect the water pipe from wind chill effects and from such damage as
may occur due to, for example, ice movement at the water shore.
Insulation of underwater piping can present signicant problems, primarily due to
the fact that PEF insulation is quite buoyant and will tend to make the water pipe
oat on the surface of the water. This can be overcome by attaching weights, such
as steel or concrete, to the insulated piping. In general, insulation of underwater
piping is probably not necessary below about the 1 foot water depth.
It is recommended that the in-line pipe heating cable system be energized at
all times during the winter season such that water supply pipes do not freeze.
(During warmer winter periods, the thermostat control will automatically
disconnect power from the heating cable to minimize energy consumption). In
the event that the water pipe freezes, such as might happen during an electrical
power interruption, it might take a few hours to thaw a frozen pipe once power is
restored, depending on the weather conditions, duration of power outage, etc.
It is not recommended that the cable be used to regularly thaw uninsulated
frozen pipes. If power outages of 24 hours or more are frequently expected,
or if the cable is to be used to regularly thaw frozen pipes, it is recommended
that the complete length of outdoor piping be insulated.
The heating cable must only be plugged into the receptacle in the power control
enclosure. Hence, the power control enclosure must be mounted in close
proximity to the cable exit from the T-coupling. Refer to Figure B. Ideally, the
power control enclosure should be located within 10 ft of the estimated coldest
point of the water pipe such that the thermostat sensor can be attached there.
This ensures that heat is always applied to the pipe as required to ensure that
the coldest point does not freeze.