Use and Care Manual

13
8 - TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
Are you having problems with your water heater?
Please call or email our customer service and technical support team for any help you may need.
TOLL FREE 1-800-543-6163
[e-mail]
The following table represents some of the most common technical support questions we receive. Before
calling us, please read thoroughly to see if your question or problem is addressed.
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
SOLUTION
Unit is not heating at all (water is
flowing but the unit is not heating
at all — the outgoing water
temperature is the same as my
cold water supply) and/or the
digital display does NOT light up.
No power or incorrect
wiring.
Make sure the breakers at main electrical panel are ON. You may have a
faulty breaker or unit may be wired incorrect. Refer to page 9 for proper
wiring layout.
Internal part failure.
Please call us for technical assistance.
Unit is not heating at all (water is
flowing but the unit is not heating at
all - the outgoing water
temperature is the same as my
cold water supply) The digital
display DOES light up.
Internal part failure.
Please call us for technical assistance.
Flow rate is too low / water
pressure is too low
Your water heater has an activation flow rate of approximately 0.3 GPM.
If your water flow rate is less than this level, your unit will not activate.
Increase the flow rate.
Activation temperature too
low
The water heater will turn on when the temperature of the water at the
inlet of the AutoBooster™ falls below the activation temperature (when
the tank is not providing hot water). Increase activation temperature.
Unit is heating but the water
temperature is not hot enough.
User temperature setting
too low.
Turn up the temperature setting on the unit.
Voltage less than 240 volts.
The heating elements on your unit are designed for 240 volts. When use
with a lower voltage, they produce less heating power.
Mixing too much cold water
You may have an anti-scald feature on your faucet that is mixing cold
water. These types of faucets can usually be adjusted to reduce the
amount of cold water mixed. Also, your tank may be completely out of
hot water and is mixing cold water. Give the tank time to recover or
reduce the amount of water you are using.
The water temperature at my faucet
is less than the temperature setting
of my water heater.
Voltage less than 240 volts.
The computer chips in your unit are programmed with the expectation
that your incoming line voltage is 240 volts. If you have less than 240
volts, it may affect the reading on your unit’s digital display and cause it
to read slightly higher than the actual output temperature. To
compensate for this, increase the setting on your unit if you need / want
hotter water.
Anti-Scald
pressure/balancing valve or
tempering valve.
Your faucet may have an anti-scald feature or a tempering valve that
automatically mixes cold water even when you turn your control lever or
handle to full hot. These devices are usually adjustable so you can turn
off the cold mix completely. You can compensate for this by increasing
the setting on your unit if you need/want hotter water.
Thermal loss due to long
pipe run
As the hot water from the unit runs through the hot water delivery
system to your faucet, some heat will be lost especially if it has long
distance to travel or the pipes are cold. This is normal. You can
compensate for this by increasing the setting on your unit if you
need/want hotter water.
Pre-existing water tank is not
heating.
Incorrect wiring.
The unit may be wired incorrectly. Refer to page 9 for proper wiring
layout.
Relay switch is defective.
Please call us for technical assistance.
Unit displays 999 as inlet and/or
outlet temperature
Thermistor on
corresponding channel is
defective
Please call us for technical assistance