Installation Guide

ManualsBrandsEverTrue ManualsLumber & Composites8-ft MDF Wall Panel

Plank Paneling Installation Instructions

Tools and Supplies Needed:

• Sharp fine-toothed saw or a power miter saw

• Miter box

• Back saw

• Hammer

• One inch finishing nails or power finishing nailer

• Nail set

• paneling adhesive

• Tape measure or ruler

• Level

• Combination square

• Plane

• Protective goggles (to be used when nailing and hammering or when using a saw)

• Caulk

• Stain and/or paint

• Appropriate paint/stain application tools.

8-Foot Height Product

Conditioning and Prefinishing: Open all packages and expose boards to the room environment

in which they will be used for a minimum of 48 hours. Removing the planks from the package

and separating and exposing them to the room environment will accomplish effective

acclimatization. Finish/seal the front, back, and all four edges of each plank prior to installation.

Pine or cedar wainscot planking may be left unfinished for a natural look or finished using a

clear, penetrating sealer, penetrating oil or semi-transparent stain. A sealer or a clear,

polyurethane is recommended for areas of high traffic or high moisture content.

All primed wood composite (MDF) planking should be painted prior to installation for best

results.

Wall Preparation: If walls are in good condition, glue and/or nail planks directly onto the

drywall or plywood. On uneven, cracked, or rough walls, planking should be nailed to a

framework of 1 x 3 or 1 x 4 furring strips of any specie that have been kiln dried. It is not

recommended that plank paneling be applied directly to studs. In rooms that are below grade,

it is recommended that a vapor barrier is in place between the studs and the drywall or subwall.

Step 1: Base Trim (sold separately from planks) Optional Step

Mark position of studs on drywall. Place base onto wall bottom with groove for planks facing

up. Level base to ensure it is horizontal. Cut base to measured length and apply adhesive to the

back. Nail base into studs. If floor is not level, you may need to add a piece of quarter round or

shoe moulding to cover any gaps between the base trim and the floor. If joining two pieces of

Summary of content (8 pages)

PAGE 1
Plank Paneling Installation Instructions Tools and Supplies Needed: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Sharp fine-toothed saw or a power miter saw Miter box Back saw Hammer One inch finishing nails or power finishing nailer Nail set paneling adhesive Tape measure or ruler Level Combination square Plane Protective goggles (to be used when nailing and hammering or when using a saw) Caulk Stain and/or paint Appropriate paint/stain application tools.
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trim end-to-end, it is recommended that they each be trimmed at a 45 degree angle to create a seamless appearance. Step 2: Tongue and Groove Planking Pick a corner of the room to start in. You will work left to right if you are right-handed and right to left if you are left-handed. All wood composite products are meant to be applied vertically but all wood planks could also be applied horizontally or diagonally.
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Horizontal Application Dry fit the first plank by beginning at a floor corner and placing the plank tongue side up. Maintain a 1/8 inch gap between the plank and the floor, the plank and the ceiling, and at each corner to allow for expansion and contraction. Decorative corner mouldings can be used on both inside and outside corners to cover gaps. Apply a bead of adhesive on the back of the plank and attach plank to the wall.
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to fit the contour of the floor. Use crown moulding to cover any gaps that occur between the top of the planks and the ceiling or follow the contour of the ceiling leaving an 1/8" gap for expansion. Step 3: Chair Rail Trim (sold separately from planks) Optional Step Cut the chair rail to measured length and apply adhesive to the back. Place the chair rail over the planks so that the groove fits on top of them.
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Instrucciones de colocación de panelesde tableros Herramientas y materiales necesarios • • • • • • • • • • • • • Sierra de dientes finos afilados o sierra ingletadora eléctrica Caja para ingletear y una sierra respaldada Martillo Clavos para acabado de 1 pulgada o clavadora de remate eléctrica Juego de clavos Adhesivo para paneles Cinta métrica o regla Nivel Escuadra combinada Garlopa Gafas protectoras (para usar al clavar, martillar o al utilizar una sierra) Masilla Tinte o pintura y las herramientas de a
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puede necesitar agregar una pieza de cuarto dosel o moldura de zócalo para cubrir cualquier espacio entre la moldura de base y el piso. Corte la moldura de base según la longitud medida y aplique adhesivo en la parte trasera. Si une dos piezas de moldura de extremo a extremo, se recomienda desbastar cada una de éstas en un ángulo de 45° para lograr una apariencia sin uniones. Paso 2: Tableros con empalme Elija una esquina de la habitación para comenzar.
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(16 pulgadas) garantizará un excelente contacto del adhesivo. Puede que necesite cortar la última pieza para que encaje en una esquina. Colocación horizontal Pruebe el primer tablero al comenzar en una esquina del piso y colocar el lado de la lengüeta del tablero hacia arriba. Mantenga un espacio de 0,3 cm (1/8 pulgadas) entre el tablero y el piso, el tablero y el techo y en cada esquina para permitir la expansión y la contracción.
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pared. Clávelo en su sitio para asegurarlo. Perfore orificios guía, según sea necesario, para evitar partir el tablero. Continúe colocando los otros tableros en la pared al introducir la ranura de cada uno de estos en la lengüeta del tablero adyacente, trabajando a lo largo hasta una esquina diagonal. Utilice adhesivo o clavos para asegurar cada tablero. Clavar los tableros a las vigas cada 40,6 cm (16 pulgadas) garantizará un excelente contacto del adhesivo.