User Manual

27
Sequential checklist -
carry out in following order
What to expect under normal conditions
Checks to perform (if not working)
Possible causes/resolutions
1. Is the power supply working
correctly?
The blue LED on power supply should light up when switched on
No signs of visible damage to cables or connectors
Mains cable should be fully pushed into power supply
Output voltage should be ~24Vdc (use voltmeter)
Check wall socket working (with another appliance)
Check plug, fuse (if applicable), swap mains power cable
if needed
Check/swap travel adapter (if using one)
Check wires between power supply and the interface panel
for damage and replace if needed
If still not working, replace the power supply with a genuine part
Contact F-Machine
2. Is the Pump Unit working?
The 2 blue operational LEDs should light (inside the window - see fig. 2.2)
Case cooling fan should start (audible)
Crank arm should visibly ‘kickwhen switched on
Red stall indicator LED inside window should NOT light up (see fig. 2.2)
Check the 90 degree power connector is fully inserted into
interface panel
Check switch on interface panel set to ON position (see
fig. 2.1)
Check nothing is visibly jamming the fan
No operational LEDs - loose internal connection or PCB failure
Fan not working - fan not connected or faulty fan
Red stall LED lights - jammed, faulty or disconnected fan
Crank arm does not ‘kick’ - loose internal connection or PCB
failure
Contact F-Machine
3. Is the remote control handset
working?
The red LED indicator on the remote should light when a button is pushed
Note: a low battery (< 11V dc) may not give sufficient signal strength to activate the machine
but the red LED may still light
Check if the battery terminals are corroded in the remote control
Check battery fitted OK/correct polarity (the spring is negative)
Measure the battery voltage with a voltmeter if you have one
(~12V dc)
If terminals are corroded, replace remote
Replace the battery with a quality brand (type MN21/A23)
If the LED indicator still does not light up, replace the remote
You will need to establish which remote code you have (T1, T2,
A or B)
Contact F-Machine
4. Does the remote handset
control the motor speed and
the suction functions?
The increase/decrease speed buttons should control the motor speed over the full speed
range (0 to 180 rpm)
The suction buttons should control the 2 internal solenoids (audible clicking sound
see Fig. 2.2)
If the Bluetooth App (Bluetooth models only) is paired to the machine, the remote control
will not respond until the App is disconnected or closed
Observe the crank speed through the window
Confirm the solenoids are clicking audibly (interface panel
end)
Alternative - check the functions with the Bluetooth App
(if applicable)
No response - low battery voltage in remote control, replace
battery
No response - possible mis-matched remote code for the
machine - contact F-Machine
If Bluetooth App works, but remote does not, replace the remote
control
Erratic speed control, or runs at full speed without control -
probable PCB failure - contact F-Machine
Runs, but cannot achieve full speed - Possible PCB failure or
jammed/faulty pump mechanism - contact F-Machine
5. Is the pump unit abnormally
noisy?
Under normal operation, the pump unit should be quiet, with slightly increasing noise under
full load (receiver attached)
It is normal to have slightly increased knocking noises under full load with the receiver
attached. This is because the pump is having to work harder
Check the crank arm adjustment bolt is tight, using hex
tool (see fig. 2.2)
Check if the oval nut has fallen off the back of the crank arm
Check the pump piston rod is moving in a linear motion
Knocking sound occurs at maximum and minimum pump travel
- probable cause is defective motor gearbox/bearings - contact
F-Machine for a replacement motor
Piston rod does not move in linear motion - pump chamber
assembly is damaged - contact F-Machine for a replacement
pump chamber assembly
6. Is there an air leak?
There should be no air leaks internal to the pump unit - conduct a stall test for internal leaks
There should be no air leaks in the system - conduct a system leak-down test
Stall test - disconnect receiver, set crank to maximum, run
the machine at > half speed. Place your finger over the
outlet port - the machine should stall and the red stall LED
should light up
Leak-down test: disconnect the power supply & receiver.
Using the hex tool, drive crank to position shown in fig. 4.1.
Reconnect the receiver, drive crank to position shown in fig.
4.2. The sleeve should inflate and hold pressure > 30 seconds
Stall test - if the machine does not stall there is probably an
internal air leak Contact F-Machine
Leak-down test - if the system does not hold pressure there is a
small leak in the system. Find and fix the leak if external to the
pump unit or contact F-Machine for assistance
7. Does the receiver perform as
expected/does it suck?
The receiver sleeve should cycle in and out when the pump is running
The sleeve should fit snugly on your penis with no gaps around the edge
The sleeve should slide on your penis with minimal resistance
Excessive slurping’ noises should not be heard during use
The receiver should not fall off the end of your penis
Ensure you have selected the correct sleeve size (see Set-
up Procedure section 1)
Ensure the receiver lid is fitted properly and the internal
seal is present (see fig. 3.3)
Ensure the duckbill valve is fitted correctly and is working
(see fig. 3.3)
The receiver air hose connection should be unobstructed
Make sure the sleeve is fitted to the receiver correctly (see fig. 6.2)
Clear any obstructions between pump unit and receiver eg.
blocked ports or kinked hoses
Check the duckbill opens corrrectly (pinch it) and that it is not
blocked with lube. Pinch to squeeze lube out
If sleeve is ‘slurping’, reduce crank displacement and retest
If receiver is falling off, decrease the crank setting and/or press
the increase suction button
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