User Manual

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Diamond/FMS F4U Corsair
I say that this model is constructed
entirely of foam but there are a couple
exceptions to this rule. The canopy is a very
nice Lexan piece that comes pre-installed
to the foam hatch and ready to fly. Also,
the gear doors and cowl are molded ABS.
All the non-foam pieces are pre-installed,
ready for action, and painted to match this
beautiful model.
As for the scale markings, they are
painted on. There are no decals to install
and nothing left to make this model as
accurate of a scale replica as possible. As
most of you know, applying decals is one
of my least favorite tasks, so this definitely
made me happy.
As I took the smaller packages out of the
box, I was pleased to find that all hardware
was in pre-labeled baggies. If you are work-
ing on the horizontal stab and elevators,
you simply have to find the bag marked
“elevator” and you’ll have everything you
need for that step. All hardware is metric
thread and has Phillips heads for easy
installation and tool selection.
I did not have to make any modifications
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when building the FMS Corsair. There was
one molded screw hole for securing the
horizontal stab that needed to have a little
excess plastic cleared away. Other than
that, everything went together exactly as
described in the instruction manual. As
with almost everything on this model, the
motor comes pre-installed. All that’s left
is to assemble and install the very scale
4-bladed propeller.
One very nice feature that I wanted to
point out on this model is the wiring. The
wings include harnesses that take the three
servos and one retract per wing (eight total
connections) and combine them into just
three connections (aileron, flaps, and gear)
that connect into your receiver. This really
simplifies the setup and reconnection of the
wings in the event that you remove them.
conclUsion
Assembly of this potentially complex
warbird is very easy. Spend two to three
evenings in the shop and you can easily
have it ready for its maiden voyage. I am
confident that just about anyone who has
minimal experience to RC models could
easily build this plane.
My one recommendation for this model
involves the mounting of the wing. In the
directions, you are asked to glue the wing
mounting plates to the wing. This essen-
tially makes for a one-piece wing. This is
fine, however if you have limited transpor-
tation and storage room you might want
to think about leaving this out so that the
wing can be separated. I looked carefully
at the construction of this model and this
would not weaken the model at all. In the
end you will have a great flying, very scale
looking Corsair that you will enjoy flying
every weekend.

Extra Sidebar
Over the years, most modelers have become familiar with handling and repairing balsa/ply
airframes with plastic film covering. With the new wave of foam airplanes taking over the
marketplace, I thought it might be good to take a look at a few things that you may run into over
the course of owning one of these models.
First, let’s talk about special handling needs. While foam is very durable and resilient overall,
the finish can be a little delicate. ings to watch out for are other objects touching/rubbing
your plane during transport and excessive force being placed in a small area. While building my
latest foam aircraft, it spent quite a bit of its time inverted in an airplane cradle. When I finished
the undercarriage, I flipped the model over to find some indents where the cradle was making
contact with the fuselage. is was undoubtedly made worse by the pressure I was applying while
assembling different parts of the plane.
Fortunately, in the example above there was no damage to the structure of the plane or the
painted finish. However, if you find yourself in a situation where there is damage to either the finish
or the structure of the model, there are a few things you need to be aware of. First of all, many of
the paints and glues that we use regularly on a wood airplane will harm your new foam model. e
biggest culprit is everyday CA glue. Be sure you are working with odorless/foam-safe glue before
you start your repairs. Next is the paint that you will use to re-finish your model. Make sure to test
your paint on something other than your model before diving in.
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