Workbook

SILVER SOLDERING A MUZZLE CONTROL DEVICE

Silver soldering is as much an art as a science. What is critical is that your solder, flux, and heat source are

all appropriate for the temperature you will be operating at (>1100 degrees F.). Also critical is that your

surface is absolutely oil free. I recommend sand blasting, then degreasing in alcohol, acetone, lacquer thinner

or Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). For most applications, a propane torch will not generate sufficient heat for

high temperature solder. I recommend an oxygen-acetylene torch or MAPP Gas. Follow manufacturer's

caution with regard to fumes. Most of the parts I have soldered turn a dull red at 1100 degrees, and cherry

soon after.

In theory, you clean and flux the parts to be soldered, heat, then apply the silver solder and it will flow evenly

into all the gaps in your work area, neatly and permanently attaching your parts. I have not been particularly

successful with this method. I have attached DSA brakes using Brownells' "Silvaloy 355" (1/2 oz $15 #080-

538-405) ribbon. I cut a piece of ribbon that matches the barrel circumference, flux the threads and barrel,

wrap the ribbon around the barrel right behind the threads, then screw the brake on. Heat until cherry. Melts

at 1145 degrees, flows at 1205 degrees.

My favorite is a product from Brownells called "Fusion" Silver Solder Paste. It is a paste that has flux and

silver powder pre-mixed. It is excellent for attaching brakes. Simply apply the paste to the threads, screw

the muzzle control device on, index it, and then heat with MAPP gas until it turns dull red. You will see the

silver melt. Let cool, wire brush, and you're done. I have found it to be a little messy in the clean-up, but if

the gun is to be painted or refinished, this is not a big deal. The STL 1205 Silver Braze melts at 1100 degrees

and costs $26 for 1 oz. One ounce should do 10+ jobs. Stock number #322-100-650

LESSON 212: INDEXING AN L1A1 FLASH HIDER

(Revised 01-15-01)

The British, Canadian, and Australian bayonet/flash hiders have a small lug in back of the bayonet lug.

There is a hole for a cross-pin and a washer. The end of the barrel also has a small groove right before the

threading stops. This is how the Flash hider locks in place. Without it, the hider could unscrew during use.

You need to thread the hider on and index it so the bayonet lug is at 6 o'clock. Then insert the washer

through the rear lug, engaging the groove in the barrel, and pin in place. You may or may not have a tiny

washer that fits between the end of the barrel and the inside of the flash hider. This washer is made in a

variety of widths and is to increase the rigidity of the hider. The washer should be thick enough so the hider

stops a few degrees short of proper alignment and you torque it the last few degrees. It is easy to break the

bayonet lug or washer tabs off. A special tool helps prevent damage. The photo below shows an original

flash hider tool, a handmade version, and one for the differently shaped Belgium long flash hider.