Workbook

LESSON 101: TOOL SELECTION

(Revised 01-15-01)

MEN can never have enough tools – must be built into their psyches. A little innovation and careful

shopping at yard sales and pawn shops will keep the cost down. Rust doesn't keep a hammer from

working and most tools polish out nicely. Most MANLY MEN have some of these tools on hand

already. Some brands have free replacement if you find a broken one and there is nothing wrong with

pooling the cost of the specialty tools with friends who are also building FALs. I have included the

Brownells part number where applicable. They are definitely not the least expensive, however it is

one-stop shopping and their excellent customer service and no-hassle return policy makes them my

first choice. Prices are retail. Any law enforcement, government, or gun-related retailer can request

dealer pricing and a free 450 page catalog.

Screwdrivers. Use "hollow ground" only. Chapman or Midway is the best value - 20-30 bits with

wrench and driver handle for $30. Brownells also makes an excellent basic set (part #080-101-801,

$37) and several expansion sets set for the more discriminating user . Get the "Police Armorer" short

handle and the "clip-tip" (part #080-088-001, $8) instead of the magnetic tip – magnetized tips don't

release the part you are trying to push into place. Tapered screwdriver blades that you find at most

hardware stores ruin guns. The screw slot is squared. Put a tapered screwdriver into the slot and it

only puts torque on the top edges of the slot. I know you've seen grip screws with hour-glass shaped

swages taken out of them. That's why. This is the one tool you CANNOT avoid without dire

consequences. A hollow ground screwdriver allows you to put force on all parts of the screw slot

evenly. Select a driver that is as wide as the slot.

Files. ($6-$12 each) A 12" and a 6" mill file, sharp with one edge ground smooth or "safe" is best.

Select one thin enough to fit inside the receiver where the bolt-carrier slides. Also 6" triangular file,

one side ground smooth. When grinding a safe edge, use a belt sander with a hard backing. Quench

the file constantly. If the file ever turns red during grinding, throw it away as you have ruined the

temper and it will never hold an edge again. Nicholson makes some inexpensive handles that are

nice.

Belt Sander. (from $70). A real time saver. Not necessary, but will speed things up. This and your

grinding wheel are the "poor-man's lathe"

Grinding Wheel (from $45), as fine as possible, may have to true to get a sharp, 90 degree edge.

Must have a rest on the grinder. Often the belt sander and grinding wheel can be had on the same

machine.

Rotary Tool. (Dremel, et. al. from $55) Not totally necessary, but well worth the modest price. If

you are feeling wealthy, a flexible shaft is very nice.

Standard Punch Set. Buy Craftsman from Sears ($25). They are more expensive than other brands,

but you WILL break them and they are replaced free. Used for driving pins. My 1/16" punch cost

$4.99 and I have replaced it at least 40 times in the last 10 years.

Small Hammer. A framing hammer is too big. You need control. You must be able to comfortably

swing it with wrist action only while seated. A brass one is best. If you use a steel one, belt-sand the

face perfectly flat; they are usually slightly convex. The Brownells 1"nylon/brass is a good value

and you can purchase replacement nylon, brass, or steel heads, but avoid the plastic (part #818-600-

100, $15).