Install Drawing

3
STEP 2: INSTALLATION PROCEDURE:
PLEASE READ THIS MANUAL IN ITS ENTIRETY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO UNPACK, ASSEMBLE, INSTALL, OPERATE OR MAINTAIN THIS EQUIPMENT. HAZARDOUS
VOLTAGES ARE PRESENT INSIDE TRANSFER SWITCH ENCLOSURES THAT CAN CAUSE DEATH OR SEVERE PERSONAL INJURY. FOLLOW PROPER INSTALLATION, OPERATION AND
MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES TO AVOID THESE VOLTAGES. TURN OFF THE MAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER IN THE LOAD CENTER BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION.
I. FOR SURFACE MOUNT INSTALLATIONS:
A. “Hard-wired” Generator Connection using a Power Inlet Box:
1. The transfer switch can be installed on either the left or right side of the main load center as it is provided with 21.5” of flexible ENT conduit tubing. Remove the dead front
cover of the main load center and the transfer switch, save the screws. Measure and cut ENT conduit to a length and snap provided fittings on ends. After attaching the
flexible ENT conduit to both enclosures through one of the bottom or side KOs, hold the transfer switch in position against the wall on which it is to be mounted, mark the
holes on the wall for the anchoring screws and anchor to wall (anchors not provided). Be sure NOT to stress the flexible ENT conduit, as it may break. [
NOTE: The Electrical
Non-Metallic Tubing (ENT) is UL Listed and acceptable for use by the National Electrical Code (NEC). However, some local codes and inspectors may prohibit its use in
buildings that exceed (3) floors above grade. If this situation arises, call 888-GEN-TRAN to request a length of flexible metal conduit (FMC) to use instead.]
2.
Fish the provided pre-assembled wire harness through the ENT conduit. Strip each wire in the wire harness 5/8” and insert and tighten the wires to the correspondingly
marked circuit breakers in the transfer switch. As you attach each marked wire to the circuit breaker, write the appliance name on the label on the transfer switch cover
per the TABLE 2 CIRCUIT WORKSHEET completed in Step 1. The unmarked BLACK wires in the harness are inserted into the UTIL MAIN 2-pole breaker in the transfer
switch. Attach the WHITE wire to the neutral bar located on the right side and attach the GREEN wire to the ground bar located on the left side of the transfer switch.
3. Install appropriately sized conduit, fittings and wire between the Power Inlet Box (PIB) and transfer switch. Remove one of the KOs on the right top or side of the transfer
switch, pull wire into transfer switch enclosure and secure wire with fitting. Install the green ground wire into the ground bar on the left, and install the white neutral wire
into neutral bar on the right. Using provided wiring connectors, connect black wire from PIB to black wiring going to Meter “A”. Repeat for red wire from PIB to Meter “B”.
Note: Model 501210 uses current transformers (CTs) connected to the meters; insert the black wire from the PIB through the hole in the CT connected to the “A” meter
and loop the wire around the CT once and through the CT hole again before connecting to the “GEN MAIN A” circuit breaker. Repeat for the red wire from the PIB before
connecting to the “GEN MAIN B” circuit breaker. See FIGURE 2 WIRING DIAGRAM. Reinstall the dead front cover to the transfer switch.
4. In the main load center, remove the wires from the breakers for the loads that will be relocated to the transfer switch. Cut each harness wire to a convenient length, strip
off 5/8” insulation and connect to the wires removed from the breakers per TABLE 2 with the provided wire connectors. Remove two adjacent single pole breakers from
which the load wires were removed and install the NEW 60A or 100A 2-pole circuit breaker (as required in the Other Items Needed section) in their place. Insert the
unmarked BLACK wires from the harness into the new circuit breaker. Terminate the WHITE and GREEN wire in the harness in an open position in the Neutral and Ground
bars respectively. If there is no separate ground bar, insert the GREEN wire into an open position in the NEUTRAL bar, and tighten.
5. Reinstall the main load center cover, and turn ON the MAIN breaker in the main load center. Turn ON all branch circuit breakers in both panels. Turn ON the UTIL MAIN in
the transfer switch. Check that power is restored to all appliances.
B. “Plug-in” Generator Connection using a Power Cord:
1. Remove the 3 screws that secure the 3 1/8” round cover plate to the top of the transfer switch. Retain screws, discard plate. Locate the Power Inlet Kit, connect to the W
(white) terminal of the Power Inlet Kit a 10” piece of white 10 AWG THHN or MTW wire and to the G (green) terminal attach a 24” piece of green 10 AWG THHN or MTW
wire, strip 5/8” insulation off of unconnected end. NOTE: for Model 501210, use 6 AWG wire.
2. Insert Power inlet into hole from which the cover plate was removed. Remove and discard wire connectors from the black and red wires attached to the meters. Strip 5/8”
insulation off of both wires, insert and tighten the black wire into X terminal of the Power Inlet Kit, the red wire into the Y terminal. Align the 3 holes in the Power Inlet Kit
flange to the 3 holes in the enclosure, secure with the 3 screws retained in step 1. Terminate the loose end of the green wire attached in step 1 to the ground bar, the white
wire to the neutral bar. Torque all terminations to specifications on product label. See FIGURE 2 WIRING DIAGRAM. Note: Model 501210 uses current transformers (CTs)
connected to the meters; cut and strip 5/8” (both ends) from two 12” pieces of 6AWG THHN or MTW wire (one black, one red), connect the black wire to X terminal on the
Power Inlet Kit, the red to the Y terminal, insert the black wire from the X terminal through the hole in the CT connected to the “A” meter and loop the wire around the CT
once and through the CT hole again before connecting to the “GEN MAIN A” circuit breaker. Repeat for the red wire from the Y terminal before connecting to the “GEN
MAIN B” circuit breaker. See FIGURE 2 WIRING DIAGRAM.
3. Proceed to Section I.A above, skipping Step 3.
II. FOR FLUSH MOUNT INSTALLATIONS:
A. “Hard-wired” Generator Connection (new construction or unfinished walls) using a Power Inlet Box:
1.
Install the transfer switch at the same time as the main load center, in adjacent wall stud openings (the transfer switch enclosure is 14.25” wide and will fit in standard 16”
wall framing). Remove the transfer switch dead front cover, save the screws. Knock out the appropriate mounting slots on the sides of the enclosure and secure to framing
with nails or screws; be sure the front edge of the enclosure extends forward to be flush with the thickness of the finished wallboard.
2. Mark and drill a 2 1/8” diameter hole in the stud between the main load center and the transfer switch, lining up with the lowest side KO in the load center and near the
bottom center KO in the transfer switch. Remove the KO’s , cut the provided ENT conduit to length, snap on the provided fittings to the ENT conduit, push the ENT conduit
through the drilled hole and install the ENT conduit assembly to the KO openings in the main load center and transfer switch.
3. Complete Section IA3 above. Cut a piece of cardboard to 14.5” x 12.5”, using the 4 screws removed in step IIA1, attach the cardboard to the front of the transfer switch.
4. After the walls have been finished and painted, remove the cardboard cover and complete the installation as described in Sections IA2, 4 and 5. NOTE: To simplify
installation, all conductors for the branch circuits can be terminated directly into the transfer switch instead of the main load center, eliminating the need to install the
harness wires between the main load center and transfer switch for each circuit.
B. “Hard-wired” Generator Connection (retrofit with finished walls) using a Power Inlet Box:
1. Remove the dead front cover from the main load center and the transfer switch, save the screws.
2. Determine where to install the transfer switch (keep in mind the length and flexibility of the ENT conduit provided and where the generator wires will enter), Verify that
there are no wires going thru the side of the main load center into the space where you want to mount the transfer switch. Use a “stud finder” to determine if you have at
least 14.25” between the studs to mount the transfer switch. Hold the transfer switch enclosure in the desired position on the wall and mark the exact dimensions of the
box. Set the enclosure aside and cut the hole in the wallboard.
3. Remove a 1” or 1-¼” KO in the lower side (towards the hole cut in Step 2) of the load center. From the inside of the main load center, drill a ¼” pilot hole through the
stud in the center of the KO removed. Reach down inside the hole cut in Step 2 and drill a 2 1/8” diameter hole in the stud using the pilot hole as a guide. Remove the
bottom center KO in the transfer switch, snap the fittings on the ENT conduit, and attach the ENT conduit assembly to the transfer switch.
4. Remove one of the KO’s on the top of the transfer switch enclosure and install an appropriately sized fitting for the incoming wires form the Power Inlet Box. Knock out the
appropriate mounting slots on the sides of the transfer switch enclosure.
5. Insert the transfer switch enclosure into the hole in the wallboard, inserting conduit fitting on attached ENT conduit assembly into the KO removed in Step 3. Fasten conduit
fitting to main load center with locknut. Secure transfer switch enclosure to framing with nails or screws; be sure the front edge of the enclosure extends forward to be
flush with the finished wallboard.
6. Complete Section IA2 thru 5 above.