Instruction Manual

No. 870

ADDITIONAL TIPS & TRICKS

TWO WAYS TO MORTISE A WORK PIECE THAT IS LESS THAN 2" WIDE

Method #1

The center of the clamp which holds the work piece is 2" below the positioning bars so if you wish to clamp stock in the

jig for mortising that is less than 2" wide you’ll need to position the stock using a ‘shim’ as well as re-setting the bit in the

router to accommodate the width of the shim.

Assuming you were going to mortise a work piece that was 1-1/2" wide. You would use a 1/2" shim and place it on top of

the work piece when bringing it up to the positioning (swing) arms. You would then tighten the clamp screws and retract

the positioning arms and remove the shim before cutting. Adjust the router bit depth by increasing it by the thickness of

the shim (in this case 1/2") over the desired mortise setting.

Method #2

The second method would be to have a work piece that was twice the width of your finished work piece (plus the kerf of

your circular saw blade). Then you would cut your mortises on both sides of this piece. Follow the regular mounting

instructions and after completion of the mortise cutting you would simply rip the work piece lengthwise (in half) yielding

two finished pieces.

PAGE 1
No. 870 ADDITIONAL TIPS & TRICKS TWO WAYS TO MORTISE A WORK PIECE THAT IS LESS THAN 2" WIDE Method #1 The center of the clamp which holds the work piece is 2" below the positioning bars so if you wish to clamp stock in the jig for mortising that is less than 2" wide you’ll need to position the stock using a ‘shim’ as well as re-setting the bit in the router to accommodate the width of the shim. Assuming you were going to mortise a work piece that was 1-1/2" wide.
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TWO WAYS TO ELIMINATE OR REMOVE THE “FENCE” WHEN CUTTING TENONS Method #1 On a 3/4" thick piece of wood if you cut a 3/8" tenon with the 3/8" bit. This will create joints with no fence. Simply use the corresponding bushings as directed on Fig. 27 on page 13 of the instruction manual for mortise and tenon sections.