Installation Guide Read this entire guide before starting installation. Failure to do so could result in serious injury or death PLEASE READ THE ENCLOSED THOROUGHLY. DO NOT DISCARD.
Before You Start Safety Practices Things to Consider Check your order Utilities Safety: Know Your Project Make sure the product label on each carton matches the product numbers on your order and project plan. Contact your dealer if there are any damaged, missing, or incorrect cabinets. Do not install if damaged or parts are missing. Read this Entire Guide Before starting the installation, read this entire guide to familiarize yourself with the precautions for installing cabinetry.
Dry Fit Installing Base Cabinets First Perform the dry fit of cabinets after you have determined the high point of the floor (see Installation Requirements). With the cabinets in place, you can see how important the Base Cabinet Top Level Line is. When installed, all base cabinet tops should match this line exactly.
Installing Wall Cabinets First Installation Requirements Whether you start at a corner or an end, the general approach with wall cabinet installation is to: 1. Mark on the back of the cabinet where the cabinet will line up with the wall studs (see further instructions page 13). 2. Predrill the hang rails at the stud locations 3. Position the cabinet with a support 4. Loosely attach the cabinet to the wall (or ceiling for peninsulas) 5. Shim and level 6. Attach the face frames together 7.
Door, Drawer, & Shelf Removal Remove Screw Door Hinge Remove doors, drawers, and roll-out trays so they aren’t in the way during installation. Removal also makes the cabinets lighter to move. Label each piece with masking tape so you know where to reinstall each piece. Store them face to face to avoid damage. Cabinet Face Frame Plate Remove Screw Remove the screws on the door hinges where they attach to the face frame.
High Point Level Line Uneven Walls & Square Corners Measure out 20-7/8" from the wall (where the base cabinets toekick line will be) and snap a line on the floor parallel to the wall. Place a straight length of 2 x 4 against the wall to find any high or low spots in the area where the cabinets will be located. Scrape or sand high spots. Mark low spots that will need shimming when you install cabinets. The more you smooth out the walls, the less you will need to shim.
Outline on Floor and Walls Locate and Mark Wall Studs Measure 19-1/2" up from the Base Cabinet Top Level Line and snap a level line on the wall. This is the Bottom of Wall Cabinet Level Line. Typical wall construction places wall studs on 16" centers. This means that every 16" you have the center of a 2 x 4 wall stud to support your cabinets. Measure 30", 36" or 42" up from the Bottom of Wall Cabinet Level Line (depending on the height of your wall cabinets). Snap a level line on the wall.
Installation Guide Installation Guide 14 Mounting Under a Soffit or Low Ceiling a soffit low ceiling IfMounting wall cabinets areunder to be mounted directlyor under a soffit or ceiling, you should find low spot of the soffita or ceiling If wall cabinets are to bethe mounted directly under soffit or ceiling, should find the spotfor offinding the soffit or high ceiling using theyou same process aslow done the spot on using theSnap sameaprocess as This donewill for be finding spot on the floor.
Attachment Minimum Requirements All cabinet frames must be fastened to adjacent cabinet frame, fillers, side wall, or ceiling. INSTALLER NOTE: If a cabinet is not bordered by cabinets on both sides, the face frame must be supported by the countertop or screwed into the soffit structure or ceiling joists using #10 x 3-1/2" Truss Head Screws. Use these screws as follows. • For cabinets 24" or less, use (4) screws, or (2) screws per frame. • For cabinets 27" or more, use (6) screws or (3) screws per frame.
Attachment to Wall (continued) INSTALLER NOTE (continued): For wall cabinets, drill 2" down from the top and 2" up from the bottom at the stud locations. For tall cabinets under 36" wide, drill 2" down from the top and through the center of the hang rail that is 1/4 of the way up from the bottom. Tall cabinets 36" wide do not have hang rails. Drill directly through the back at the same locations as above.
Supported Through Back and Adjacent 12" Deep Wall Cabinets Install four (4) 1-1/2" screws through end panel of 15" Deep Wall Cabinet into adjacent cabinet frame stile Install four (4) screws through hanger rail into wall studs Supported Through Back and Adjacent 12" Deep Wall Cabinets IMPROPER INSTALLATION Deep Wall Cabinet serious personal injury or property damage that will not be covered by the product warranty.
Installation How-to’s Base Blind Corner Cabinets During the “dry fit” step, it is a good time to check the blind corner cabinet spacing from the corner wall. Dry fit the cabinets tightly together, starting at the end of the row of cabinets and butt against the Blind Corner Cabinet. Mark the position where the end of the Blind Corner Cabinet is spaced away from the corner wall. The Blind Corner Filler (provided with some products) provides clearance between 90° cabinets for drawer and door pull hardware.
Peninsula Base Cabinets Base Corner Cabinets Peninsula base cabinets must be secured to the floor. Peninsula Cabinets are secured to the floor with wood blocks behind the toekicks, on each side of the cabinet. The approach to install Base Corner cabinets is to attach the adjacent cabinets on each side and install the group of cabinets as a unit. To prepare blocking, square the Peninsula Cabinet with the adjacent Base Cabinet and mark the floor at the toekick locations, front and back.
Wall Blind Corner Cabinets (continued) 3” Maximum Wall Outline Spacer Shim as Needed Check the Wall Outline for the distance the Blind Corner cabinet is pulled away from the corner. The maximum distance is 2-7/8". Transfer measurements, predrill, and fasten cabinet to wall per Attachment to Wall requirements. Wall Fillers are available to fill gaps between the end of a row of cabinets and a 90° wall. INSTALLER NOTE: A Backer Board is required behind the Wall Filler if the Filler is wider than 3".
Wall Filler; Base, Wall (continued) Transfer Width to Filler Place, shim, level, and install the final cabinet. With the final cabinet in place, measure the gap between the wall and the top of the cabinet. Masking Tape If the wall contour is even, use this dimension to mark and cut the Filler. Filler Width If the wall contour is irregular, you’ll need to scribe the surface of the Filler. Clamp the Filler to the adjacent cabinet so the edges are exactly aligned.
Tall End Filler & 24" Deep Wall Cabinet Installation The Tall End Filler conceals the side of a refrigerator and supports a 24" Deep Wall Cabinet above. Tall End Fillers are shipped without a Toespace Cutout and must be inverted for left- or right- hand use before marking and cutting the Toespace. Determine whether the application is Left- or Right- Hand. Measure the Toekick height and depth from an adjacent Base Cabinet and transfer these dimensions to the proper end of the Tall End Filler.
Oven Cut-out Determine oven opening size (rough-in dimensions) by referring to the oven manufacturer’s specifications; or measure your oven. Position the oven so a minimum of 1-1/2" of frame cross rail is left above and below the oven to retain rigidity of the cabinet frame. Larger ovens will require that one or more frame cross rail(s) be removed. DO NOT cut an opening larger than what will leave the 1-1/2" required material available.
Bookcase Vanity Sink Cabinets Installation of a bookcase by itself is NOT recommended unless additional support such as attachment to a soffit or supported by a countertop. Bookcases that are 54" or 60" high are designed to mount on a countertop and must be secured to the wall. Transfer the location of the supply and drain lines to the back or bottom of the cabinet. Using a hole saw, cut openings 1/4" larger than that of the pipe at these locations.
Conversion of Vanity Drawers to False Front (continued) Lay the Drawer Front face down on a protected surface. Drill a 3/32" diameter 1/2" deep hole as shown. For traditional overlay door styles, the hole is located 2-3/4" from the bottom of the drawer front and 15/16" from the side of the drawer front. For full overlay door styles, the hole is located 2-3/4" from the bottom of the drawer front and 1-5/8" from the side of the drawer front. Repeat on both sides.
6-way Hinge Adjustments (continued) Toekick Covers Measure the length of the toekick area and cut the Toekick Cover to that length. Clean the area of any debris. Apply glue to the back of the Toekick Cover and place onto the toekick area. Use small finishing nails to tack the Toekick Cover in place. Hardware Screw B Screw C Countersinking the hardware screws to the proper depth will prevent the screw heads from striking the cabinet frames during normal operation.
