® TM WE GET PEOPLE FLYING Extra 330S ASSEMBLY MANUAL Specifications Wingspan: .............. 97 in (2463.8mm) Length: ................... 83 in (2108.2mm) Wing Area: ............ 1750 sq in (112.9 sq dm) Weight: ................... 24.75–25.5 lb (11.2 kg–11.5 kg) Radio: ..................... 4-channel w/9 servos • Superior controllability and aerobatic flight characteristics Engines: ................... 3.8–4.
Table of Contents Table of Contents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Using the Manual . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Contents of Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Other Items Needed (not included in the kit) . . . . . . . .
Contents of Kit H G A D C E B I F Large Parts A. Fuselage w/Hatch B. Right Wing Panel w/Aileron C. Left Wing Panel w/Aileron D. Right Stabilizer w/Elevator E. Left Stabilizer w/Elevator F. Rudder G. Canopy H. Painted Cowl I.
Additional Required Tools and Adhesives Tools • 4-40 tap • 8-32 tap • Adjustable wrench (small) • Canopy scissors • Drill (drill press preferred) • Drill bit: 1/16", 3/32", 7/32", 1/4", #43, 1/2", 5/32", 9/64" • Drum sander • Cut-off wheel • Velcro straps • Flat blade screwdriver w/short handle • Foam: 1/2" • Hex wrench: 3/32" • Hobby knife • Masking tape • Phillips screwdriver (small) • Pliers • Ruler • Sandpaper • Scissors • Square • Syringe • Tap handle • Toothpicks Adhesives • 6-minute epoxy • 30-minut
Servo Selection The servos used for the control surfaces of the Extra 330S must have a minimum of 80 ounce inch of servo torque. In the prototype Extras, we used JR8411 servos. Before Starting Assembly Before beginning the assembly of the Extra 330S, remove each part from its bag for inspection. Closely inspect the fuselage, wing panels, rudder, and stabilizer for damage. If you find any damaged or missing parts, contact the place of purchase.
Section 1 – Aileron Servo Installation Required Parts • Wing panel (right and left) Required Tools and Adhesives • Phillips screwdriver (small) • Drill bit: 1/16" • Drill • 12" Servo Extension (JRPA098) • 24" Servo Extension (JRPA102) Step 1 Install the servo hardware (grommets and eyelets) included with the servo. Step 2 Plug a 12" and a 24" servo extension onto two of the servos.
Section 1 – Aileron Servo Installation Step 4 Insert the servo with the 24" extension towards the tip of the wing. Use the string to pull the servo lead through the wing. Position the servo so the output shaft is towards the trailing edge of the wing. Use a 1/16” drill bit to drill the locations for the servo screws. Mount the servos using the hardware provided with the servos. Photo for Step 4 Photo for Step 4 Step 5 Repeat Steps 3 and 4 for the servo near the root of the wing panel.
Section 2 – Aileron Control Horn Installation Required Parts • Wing panel (left and right) • Aileron (left and right) Required Tools and Adhesives • Felt-tipped pen • Drill bit: 5/32" • 8-32 tap • Tap handle • Square • Ruler • 30-minute epoxy • Rubbing alcohol • Drill (drill press preferred) • 8-32 x 2" Hangar 9® control horn screw (4) (Included in HAN1220 (JR™) or HAN1221 (FUT)) • Hangar 9 control horn A-nut (4) (Included in HAN1220 (JR™) or HAN1221 (FUT)) Step 1 Tape the aileron to the wing.
Section 2 – Aileron Control Horn Installation Note: A hardwood block (hard point) is located below the sheeting; you will be drilling through this. Make sure to drill the hole perpendicular to the top of the aileron. It is highly recommended to use a drill press to achieve this. Photo for Step 6 Photo for Step 5 Step 7 Mix a small amount of 30-minute epoxy and lightly coat the inside of the tapped hole and the 8-32 x 2" Hangar 9 control horn screw.
Section 3 – Hinging and Sealing the Control Surfaces Required Parts • Wing panel (right and left) • Aileron (left and right) Required Tools and Adhesives • 30-minute epoxy • Syringe • Sandpaper (coarse) • Toothpicks • Robart hingepoints Properly hinging the control surfaces on giant-scale models is vitally important! Poorly installed hinges affect the model’s precision and control response and can also be dangerous.
Section 3 – Hinging and Sealing the Control Surfaces Step 3 Allow the epoxy to fully cure for at least 6 hours. When cured, work each hinge throughout its full motion several times using your hands. This will break free any epoxy that may have found its way into the hinge joint. Move the hinge throughout its full travel until no resistance is felt. This may take as many as 40 or 50 times. Step 5 Carefully attach the aileron to the wing, making sure the hinges are inserted in their respective hinge pockets.
Section 3 – Hinging and Sealing the Control Surfaces Step 7 When fully cured, move each control surface throughout its travel range several times to break away any epoxy in the hinge. Be sure to deflect the surface fully.
Section 4 – Sealing the Hinge Gaps Step 2 Using a ruler, measure 1/2" from the folded crease and mark two places with a felt-tipped pen. Step 4 Mark and cut the folded covering to an overall length of 40". This piece will be inserted and ironed down into the hinge bevel on the bottom of the aileron. Step 3 Using a sharp #11 blade and a straight edge, carefully cut through both layers of UltraCote® covering at the 1/2" point marked in Step 2. Step 5 Remove the backing from the UltraCote.
Section 5 – Aileron Linkage Installation Required Parts • Aluminum servo arms (4) • Control horn ball ends (4) • 41/2" 4-40 linkage (4) Required Tools and Adhesives • Phillips screwdriver (small) • Threadlock MatchBox Option: To simplify the installation of the aileron servo linkages, you may want to use the JR™ MatchBox™ servo matching/power system (JRPA900). Four MatchBoxes would be used in this application—one for each wing panel, one for the rudder and one for the elevator servo configuration.
Section 5 – Aileron Linkage Installation Step 4 Attach the linkage to the servo horn on the aileron. Adjust the link so the aileron is centered at the same time as the servo. Photo for Step 4 Step 5 Repeat Steps 1 through 4 for the second servo. Step 6 Repeat Steps 1 through 5 for the remaining servos in the opposite wing panel.
Section 6 – Wing Tube Installation Required Parts • Wing panels • Fuselage • Wing tube • 1/4-20 x 2" nylon bolts (2) Step 2 Carefully slide the remaining wing panel onto the wing tube that projects from the fuselage. The fit may be tight; use caution when inserting the wing panels onto the wing tube and fuselage. Required Tools and Adhesives • Flat screwdriver w/short handle • Thick CA • Sandpaper (medium) Step 3 Secure the wing panels using the 1/4-20 x 2" nylon wing bolts.
Section 7 – Rudder and Elevator Servo Installation Required Parts • Fuselage Required Tools and Adhesives • Drill • Drill bit: 1/16" • 24" Servo Extensions (JRPA102) (4) or • 18" Servo Extensions (JRPA099) (4) • Y-Harness (JRPA133) (2) • Dental floss or string The rudder and elevators require a minimum of 80 ounce inch of servo torque. In the prototype Extras we used JR8101s and JR8411 servos with excellent results. Using servos with less torque could cause a crash.
Section 8 – Elevator Linkage Installation Required Parts • Fuselage • Short stabilizer tube • Long stabilizer tube • Stabilizer half (left and right) Required Tools and Adhesives • 4-40 tap • Drill • #4 lock washer (2) • Clear UltraCote® • Drill bit: #43 or 3/32" (for 4-40 tap) • 4-40 x 1/2" socket head bolt (2) • Aluminum servo arms (2) • Control horn ball ends (2) • 41/2" 4-40 linkage (2) The technique for installing the control horns in the elevators is similar to the aileron control horn installation.
Section 8 – Elevator Linkage Installation Step 6 Cut off the first section of two of the hinges. This is done to clear the tube installed in the elevator. Step 7 Glue the elevator hinges in place using the same techniques used to hinge the ailerons. The shortened hinges will be installed into the stabilizer towards the root. After hinging the elevator, use the same technique to seal the elevator’s hinge gaps. Use Clear UltraCote® for the bottom of the elevator.
Section 8 – Elevator Linkage Installation Step 10 Remove the tube and install it into one stabilizer halfway up to the first line on the tube. Drill through the hole into the stabilizer and tap for a 4-40 bolt. Install the bolt to secure the tube in the stabilizer. Step 11 Install the shorter tube into the stabilizer half with the secured tube. Slide the assembly into the fuselage. Slide the remaining stab half onto the tubes and drill and tap the location for the 4-40 retaining bolt.
Section 8 – Elevator Linkage Installation Step 13 Screw a 4-40 ball link 5 to 6 turns onto a 41/2" long 4-40 linkage. Screw the opposite end of the linkage into the swivel control horn on the elevator. Adjust the linkage length until the hole in the ball link lines up with the outer hole in the servo arm when the elevator is neutral and the servo arm is centered. Step 14 Using the 4-40 screws and nuts included in the Hangar 9® package, attach the ball link to the outer hole in the arm.
Section 9 – Rudder Linkage Installation Step 2 Using a 5/32" drill bit and drill press, carefully drill a 5/32" hole through the rudder perpendicular (90°) to the rudder centerline at the marked position. Be especially careful when penetrating through the backside of the rudder. Step 6 Measure the width of the rudder. Divide the measurement by 2 and make marks on either side of the center mark the distance calculated. Step 3 Using an 8-32 tap, thread the hole that you just drilled in the rudder.
Section 9 – Rudder Linkage Installation Step 9 Screw a molded swivel link onto each side of the 8-32 threaded rod so the top of the link is 11/4" from the surface of the rudder. Step 11 Remove the stock servo arms and replace them with heavy-duty 11/4" arms. The arms need to be positioned as shown. Step 12 Screw a 4-40 ball link 5 to 6 turns onto a 5" long 4-40 linkage. Screw the opposite end of the linkage into the swivel control horn that was installed in Section 6.
Section 10 – Landing Gear Installation Required Parts • Fuselage • Landing gear fairing • 10-32 x 1" socket head bolt (4) • 10-32 nylon lock nut (4) • #10 lock washer (4) • 1/4-20 x 2” nylon bolt Step 3 Press the landing gear fairing into position to transfer the location of the bolt heads into the foam. Use a hobby knife to remove the foam to provide clearance for the heads of the bolts.
Section 11 – Wheel Pant Installation Required Parts • Wheel (2) • 3/16" wheel collar (4) • #4 washer (2) • #4 lock washer (2) • Fuselage w/landing gear • Wheel pant (left and right) • 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screw (2) Required Tools and Adhesives • Drill • Drill bit: 1/2" and 9/64" • Felt-tipped pen • Square • Ruler Step 3 Use a rotary tool or drill to make a 1/2" hole at the location made in the last step. Note: When using drill bits, it is best to start small and work up to the larger size bit.
Section 11 – Wheel Pant Installation Step 5 Remove the pant and use a 9/64" drill bit to drill the location marked in the previous step. Step 6 Install a 4-40 blind nut into the hole from the inside of the pant. The nut will be drawn into the plywood later in this section. Step 7 Install the following items onto the axle: wheel pant, 3/16" wheel collar, wheel then another 3/16" wheel collar. It will be necessary to fit the parts inside the wheel pant and slide them onto the axle.
Section 12 – Tail Wheel Installation Required Parts • Fuselage • Tail wheel assembly Required Tools and Adhesives • Drill • Drill bit: 3/32" • #6 x 3/4" screw (2) (not included) • Felt-tipped pen Step 1 Assemble the tail wheel per the instructions included with the tail wheel assembly. The nylon control horns included with the tail wheel assembly are not used. Step 4 Use two #6 x 3/4" sheet metal screws to secure the tail wheel bracket in place.
Section 13 – Receiver, Battery and Fuel Tank Installation Required Parts • Fuselage Required Tools and Adhesives • 1/8" light plywood • Velcro straps • 6-minute epoxy Step 3 Use foam and rubber bands (or Velcro® straps) to secure the receiver to the battery tray. Note: We have also mounted MatchBoxes for the rudder and elevator servos next to the receiver. Step 1 Remove the hatch to allow access to the interior of the fuselage.
Section 13 – Receiver, Battery and Fuel Tank Installation Step 6 Assemble the tank per the instructions included with the tank. Be sure to use the gas-compatible stopper and fuel tubing. Step 8 Mount the receiver switch in a convenient location in the side of the fuselage. Step 7 Place foam on the floor of the tank compartment. Secure the tank in place by wrapping rubber bands or Velcro straps around the tank and tank floor. Cup hooks can be used to hook the rubber bands to the tank floor.
Section 14 – Mounting the Engine and Cowl Required Parts • Fuselage assembly • Engine • 1/4" lock washer (4) • 4-40 Ball Links • Fuel Filler (HAN115) • 1/8" plywood • Kill Switch (ZEN20000) • 4-40 x 12" threaded rod (2) • Engine mounting adapter plate (G62 only) • 1/4-20 x 11/2" socket head cap screw (4) (G62) • Cup engine Mount (B&B6202) (G62) • 1/4-20 x 1/2" socket head cap screw (4) (GT80) • 2' Gas-Compatible Fuel Tubing (DUB800) • 18" Servo Extension (JRPA099) • 6" 4-40 Threaded Rod (DUB802) Required To
Section 14 – Mounting the Engine and Cowl Step 3 Make up the throttle linkage using a 4-40 rod and two ball links. Carefully tap the throttle arm of the carburetor with a 4-40 tap and connect the ball link to the throttle arm. Use the remaining ball end to attach the linkage to the servo arm. Step 4 Attach a 4-40 rod with a ball link to the choke lever. Route the linkage to the bottom of the fuselage where it can be easily accessed during the starting of the engine.
Section 14 – Mounting the Engine and Cowl Step 3 Mount the throttle servo on the bottom of the engine box 3/4" back from the front edge of the box. Use the hardware supplied with the servo to attach the servo to the engine box. Completing the Engine Installation Step 1 Run the fuel lines from the pick up in the tank to the carburetor and run the vent line out the bottom of the firewall. We recommend using a fuel filter and a kill switch mounted on the fuselage for convenient fueling and safety.
Section 15 – Hatch Assembly Required Parts • Hatch • 4-40 x 1/2" screw (4) • Decals • Canopy • #4 washer (4) • 1/3-scale pilot Step 3 Install a 1/3-scale pilot figure to the hatch using Shoo Goo or similar adhesive that will remain flexible. Let the glue dry before securing the canopy in place. Required Tools and Adhesives • Hex wrench: 3/32" • Formula 560-canopy glue • Shoo Goo • Masking tape Step 1 The Extra hatch comes pre-installed on the fuselage and is held on with four 4-40 socket head cap screws.
Step 5 Lightly sand the inside edge of the canopy and slightly inside the line drawn on the hatch using medium sandpaper. Step 6 Apply a bead of RCZ56 Canopy Glue (ZINJ5007) around the inside edge of the canopy. Position the canopy onto the hatch. Use tape to hold the canopy secure until the glue fully cures. Step 7 Apply the decals using the photos on the box as a guide. Section 16 – Balancing the Model Correctly balancing an aerobatic model is critical to its performance and flight characteristics.
Section 17 – Radio Setup A 7-channel or greater computer radio is highly recommended.
Preflight at the Field Range Test Your Radio Step 1 Before each flying session, be sure to range check your radio. This is accomplished by turning on your transmitter with the antenna collapsed. Turn on the receiver in your airplane. With your airplane on the ground and the engine running, you should be able to walk 30 paces (approximately 100 feet) away from your airplane and still have complete control of all functions.
The Prototype Model Setup All of the recommended settings in this manual are a result of the flight testing on the prototype Extras. There are no secrets. If you follow the instructions and these tips, your Extra will be set up just like mine. Although a computer radio is not mandatory, it is preferable in this model. I use Exponential on all controls to soften the feel around neutral. This makes it easier to fly smooth in precision maneuvers and also makes it less likely to over-control in 3D mode.
Rudder-to-Elevator and Rudder-toAileron Mixing This mix is used to dial out unwanted pitch and roll caused by the rudder. The Extra has very little coupling, but dialing it out will make knife-edge maneuvers easier. Use a preprogrammed mix if your radio has this feature, or if not, use a P-mix feature. Assign rudder as the master channel and elevator as the slave. Set the mixing values so when the rudder is deflected all the way in either direction on high rate, the elevator moves up 1/4" (21/2°).
Unloading Snaps That’s the whole trick. To start a snap roll, the same method as with a smaller model is used. Pull full up, full rudder and aileron in the same direction. But as soon as the sticks reach the corners, neutralize the elevator, while keeping the rudder and ailerons at full deflection. When you do this correctly, the Extra will not get “deep” into snaps. This allows it to keep more airspeed as it exits the snap, so it stops snapping where you what it to and flies out with more air speed.
The Blender What it is: The Blender or Panic maneuver is a vertical diving roll that virtually stops its descent as it instantaneously enters into a flat spin. 40 Setup: Follow the 3D setup as described in the manual. Be sure to use Expo. Setting the CG toward the aft location will help, but I have had great results even at the forward CG location. This is a wing tester and can be extremely violent but will always generate gasps of excitement. But done correctly, the Extra 330S can handle the challenge.
The Elevator What it is: The plane drops vertically while in a nose high attitude. Depending on the head wind conditions, the model will drop anywhere from about a 45-degree angle in calm conditions to vertical or even a little backwards in more windy conditions. Throttle is used to determine rate of descent and the nose high attitude of the model. plane to go where you want it to go. Recovery: Basic recovering—add full power, flip to normal rate elevator, and fly out.
The Harrier What is it: It is very slow forward flight in a very nose high (about 45 degrees) attitude. Setup: Same as the Elevator, and the raised ailerons help in this maneuver even more. How it’s done: Start by entering an Elevator maneuver. Let the Extra drop a small amount, then slowly add power until the vertical descent stops and the model begins to fly forward with the nose very high, all the while your holding full up-elevator (on 3D rate).
The Torque Roll What it is: The Extra 330S “hovers” vertically in place, rotating left around its roll axis. How it’s done: Fly low along the ground at low throttle and gently add power with up elevator to bring the model into a vertical position. Add throttle to keep the nose pointed up and make corrections with rudder and elevator to keep things straight. If the model hovers but won’t start rolling left, quickly blip the throttle up and down. The torque change will usually get it going.
The Parachute What it is: The Parachute is a vertical dive that instantly decelerates in its descent as it instantaneously corners into an Elevator. Setup: Same as the Elevator, and the raised ailerons help in this maneuver too. How to do it: Start from about 400-500 feet straight and level, chop throttle, and push the nose straight down. As soon as the model is diving straight down at low throttle, add full up-elevator.
The Wall What it is: The Wall is a Parachute turned on end. The model starts in normal level flight and suddenly corners nose up 90 degrees, as if it hit a wall. Advanced Recovery: Juggle the throttle to sustain a hover and transition into a torque roll. Worst way to mess up: Don’t get the throttle in quickly enough and the model falls backward. Great combo: This has become one of my favorites to do with the Extra 330S.
2003 Official AMA National Model Aircraft Safety Code Effective January 1, 2003 Model Flying MUST be in accordance with this Code in order for AMA Liability Protection to apply. GENERAL 1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows or model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be airworthy by having been previously, successfully flight tested. 2) I will not fly my model higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator.
2003 Official AMA National Model Aircraft Safety Code Continued 4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission. (Only properly licensed Amateurs are authorized to operate equipment on Amateur Band frequencies.) 5) Flying sites separated by three miles or more are considered safe from site-to site interference, even when both sites use the same frequencies.
® TM WE GET PEOPLE FLYING © 2003, Horizon Hobby, Inc. 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, Illinois 61822 (877) 504-0233 www.horizonhobby.
