This section provides procedures for the checkout and replacement of the various parts used within the fryer. Before replacing any parts, refer to the Troubleshooting section. It will aid you in determining the cause of the malfunction. This section is arranged in groupings of the components that work together within the fryer. The general groups are listed below. Removing the Control Panel Probe Electrical Components Control Board Pressure System 1.
This high temperature control is a manual reset control which senses the temperature of the shortening. If the shortening temperature exceeds 420°F (215OC), this control switch will open and shut off the heat to the cookpot. When the temperature of the shortening drops to a safe operation limit, the control must be manually reset. The reset button is located above the filter knob in the front of the cooker. This will allow heat to be supplied to the cookpot.
Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by unplugging the unit, or by turning off the wall circuit breaker or electrical shock could result. 1. If the tube is broken or cracked, the control will open, shutting off electrical power. The control cannot be reset. 2. Drain shortening from the cookpot and discard. A substance in the tube could contaminate the shortening. 3. Remove control panel. 4. Loosen small inside screw nut on capillary tube. 5.
Be sure capillary bulb of high limit is positioned as not to interfere with carrier or when cleaning the cookpot wall, or damage to capillary tube could result. 15. With excess capillary line pulled out, tighten smaller nut. 16. Replace front panel. 17. Refill with shortening. There are two fuse holders on each model of the electric fryers. There are no fuse holder assemblies for the gas models other than that at the main power source.
The Power/Pump a center “OFF“ position the fryer position the filter not. Switch is a three way rocker switch with position. With the switch in the POWER wiil operate. With the switch in the PUMP pump will operate, but the heating unit will 1. Remove Control Panel. Remove electrical power suppled to the fryer by unplugging the unit, or turning off the wall circuit breaker or electrical shock could result. 2. “OFF” Position - should be open circuit anywhere on the switch. 3.
The electric fryer requires two switching contactors: a primary contactor and a heat contactor. The primary contactor energizes (contacts close) any time the Power/Pump Switch is in the “Power” position and the temperature of the pot is below 420°F (215OC). The hi limit will cut the power at the primary contactor if temperatures in the cookpot exceed 420° F (215O6). The primary contactor supplies power to one side of the heat contactors. The heat contactor is controlled by the computer controller.
The following checks, are performed with the wall circuit breaker on, and the Power/Pump Switch in the ower” position. Extreme caution should be taken. ake connections before applying power, take reading, and remove power by unplugging the power cord, or by turning off the wall circuit breaker, before removing meter leads or electrical shock could result. 5. ith power re-applied and in a heat-up mode, check the power going to both contactor coils. This is to be sure power is going to the contactors.
Each electric fryer uses two heating elements. Heating elements are available for 208 or 220/240,380 and 415 voltage. Check the data plate on the right side panel of unit to determine the correct voltage. If the shortening’s temperature recovery is very slow, or at a slower rate than required, this may indicate defective heating element(s). A multimeter will quickly indicate if the elements are shorted or open. 1. Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer.
1. Drain the shortening. 2. Remove the high limit bulb holder from the heating element. 3. Remove the Control Panel. 4. Disconnect the heating element wires from the contactors. 5. Loosen the screws on the element spreaders. 6. Slide the element spreaders to the back of the heating elements. 7. Remove the brass nuts and washers which secure the ends of the elements through the cookpot. 8.
All fryers are equipped with a drain valve micro-switch that prevents heat from coming on when the drain valve is open. With the drain valve open, the switch prevents power from being applied to the coil of the primary and heat contactors, and the solenoid coil. Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by unplugging the unit, or turning off the wall circuit breaker or electrical shock could result. 1. The following check should be made to determine if the Drain Switch is defective. a.
Henny Penny 5-11. TEMPERATURE PROBE REPLACEMENT (Continued) Model 580 3. Remove the Control Board. 4. Remove probe connections from PC board. 5. Using a ½” wrench, remove the nut on the compression fitting. 6. Remove the probe from the cookpot. 7. Place the nut and new ferrule on the new probe and insert the probe into the compression fitting until it extends .475 inches (12 mm) into the cookpot. 8. Tighten hand-tight and then a half a turn with wrench. Excess force damages the probe. 9.
Henny Penny 5-12. COMPLETE CONTROL PANEL HENNY PENNY Model 580 Should the Control Panel become inoperative, follow these instructions for replacing the board. 1. Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer. Place the Power/Pump Switch in the "OFF" position, and unplug the power cord and/ or turn the wall circuit breaker off or electrical shock could result. 2. Remove the two screws securing the Control Panel and lift panel up and out. 3. Unplug the connectors going to the Control Board. 4.
Henny Penny Model 580 5-14. PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE The following is a routine maintenance schedule for the Lid: Every 90 days • Clean and reverse lid gasket Yearly Cleaning and Inspection 5-15. REVERSING LID GASKET • Remove and clean Safety Relief Valve • Check Lid Gasket for splitting and tears - replace if necessary • Check Pressure Pads for wear - rotate if necessary • Check Cam Slide Guides - replace if worn or broken • Check Lid Rollers - replace if cracked or damaged.
Check the gasket for any tears or nicks. If the gasket is damaged it needs to be replaced. Be careful that the lid doesn’t fall down while it is in the upright position, or serious injury could result. 3. Clean the gasket and gasket seat with hot water. 4. Rotate the gasket with the opposite side facing out. Begin the installation by installing the four corners of the lid gasket, and smoothing the gasket into place from the corners.
6. Using a l/Z” wrench, tighten the nut (already threaded on the cable) against the weight securing the cable into the weight. .\ \ \.,“‘@l$ ,” $,# &i,! \.,“,, ,; ‘, ull cable over pulley and down behind the weight. 8. Thread the other end of the cable through a 5/16” nut on the underside of the bracket. 9. Tighten the cable up by screwing the cable through the nut, until the weight becomes level. - The safety cable should now have some slack in it, with the weight level. 10.
Henny Penny 5-17. PRESSURE PAD Model 580 The pressure pads are plastic strips that the lid cam presses against to seal the lid. 1. Raise the lid. 2. Remove the four screws securing the lid cover and remove cover. 3. Push the lid cam back, off of the pressure pads. 4. Using an Allen wrench, remove large bolt securing the pad. 5. Using a Phillips head screw driver, remove the small screw securing the pad and remove the broken pad.
Henny Penny 5-18. LID ADJUSTMENT Model 580 If steam leaks out from around the lid gasket, the pressure pads could be worn or broken. If the pressure pad is worn, but not broken, it can be reversed 180 degrees, and the other end of the pad used. See Section 5-17. Other problems could cause the steam to leak, such as a cracked or worn gasket, or gasket not installed properly. Be certain leaking is not caused by too much pressure before making any lid adjustments. Fryer should be operating at 12 psi.
ith the carrier and racks installed on the lid, the lid should down, in contact with the pot rim, when the lid is lowered. The user will then be able to lock the lid in place. If the lid has a tendency to rise up before getting t the magnet plate probably needs adjusting emove the six nuts securing the back shroud and remove back shroud. 2. Loosen the bottom nut under the plate and unscrew both nuts a couple turns, then lower the lid again to see if the lid stays down. If not, repeat procedure. 3.
rior to servicing the solenoid valve, it is necessary to remove the side panel on the right side of the unit. 1. Remove the “tru-arc” housing. retaining clip on top of the coil 2. Remove the cover. 3. If only the coil is to be replaced, disconnect the two coil wires at the wire nuts in the coil housing. insert new coil, and connect the wires at the wire nuts. Assemble in reverse order of disassembly. The wires may be connected in any order. 4.
Henny Penny 5-20. SOLENOID VALVE Replacement (Continued) Model 580 7. With the bonnet assembly and core-disc assembly removed, disconnect the two nut fittings. One connects the solenoid valve to the dead weight system; the other is attached to the condensation tank. 8. Remove the elbows from the solenoid valve. 9. Remove the two adapter screws which attach the pipe adapter to the solenoid valve body. 10. Remove the disc spring, guide, and Teflon seat. 11. Clean the valve body. 12.
Henny Penny Model 580 5-21. OPERATING CONTROL VALVE (Continued) DO NOT MANUALLY ACTIVATE THE SAFETY RELIEF VALVE. Hot steam will be released from the valve when the ring is pulled. Keep away from safety valve exhaust, or severe burns could result. Cleaning Steps ORIFICE 1. CAP WEIGHT AT THE END OF EACH DAY’S USAGE OF THE FRYER, THE OPERATING VALVE MUST BE CLEANED. The fryer must be OFF and the pressure released. Open the lid and then remove the dead weight valve cap and dead weight.
Henny Penny 5-22. REMOVAL & CLEANING OF SAFETY VALVE (Continued) Model 580 3. Clean inside of the elbow with hot water. NOTE Turn the relief valve towards the left side of the fryer when reinstalling relief valve. 4. Immerse the safety relief valve in soapy water for 24 hours. Use a 1 to 1 dilution rate. The valve cannot be disassembled. It is factory preset to open at 14 ½ pounds of pressure.
The drain valve is found underneath the cookpot in the back of the fryer. It is opened by pulling the red knob in the front of the fryer, allowing the shortening to drain from the cookpot. 1. rain the shortening from the cookpot. 2. Remove right side panel of fryer. emove the two cotter pins from the drain valve fitting and drain rod and pull extension from the drain valve, and let rod drop down. 4. Unscrew the drain shield from the valve. 5. Unscrew drain valve from the cookpot. 6.
The nylatron strips fiil the gap in the shroud behind the lid. 1. Secure the lid with the lid stop bracket. emove one of the tru-arc rings off of the lid pin and knock the pin out of the lid. 3. Lift the lid from the unit. The lid weighs 80 lbs. Care should be taken when lifting the lid to prevent personal injury. 4. With one person on each lid arm, release arms from the lid stop bracket and allow lid arms to rise all the way up. 5.
8. Lift the front shroud up and out, over the arms of the lid. 9. Thread the new nylatron strip through the track in the front shroud. 10. Lining up the holes in the strips, fit the front shroud over the lid arms and secure to carriage frame.
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