Installation Guide

oor or “pinch” the oor under doorways, cabinets, etc. This could cause the oor
to pull apart or buckle because it is not allowed to oat freely. Be especially careful
when installing moldings and trim not to nail into the oating oor.
• While installing ooring, it is best to work from several cartons of material to
properly blend the naturally occurring lighter and darker boards to achieve a more
uniform oor appearance. In addition, this will help distribute the random length
planks.
• Decide the direction the ooring will be installed in the room. If possible, it is
best to install perpendicular to the direction of the ooring joists. Flooring will be
accented best if installed parallel to the largest windows in the room.
• This oating wood oor requires a minimum 3/8” expansion space around the
perimeter of the room to allow for normal expansion and contraction, as well as
around any other vertical objects in the room (cabinets, columns, etc.).
• Extra expansion space is required in large areas (i.e. one room; two rooms with
adjoining archways or a room with an extended hallway) measuring more than 24
linear feet in either direction (width or length). Either install a T-molding across the
width of the room, archway or use an additional 1/4” expansion for each additional
12 linear feet (i.e. for a 3/8” product in a room that measures 36’ x 36’ you would
PRE-INSTALLATION PLANNING CONTINUED
leave 5/8” expansion around all vertical surfaces which can be covered by your
choice of molding).
• Pre-plan the number of rows (based off of board face width). Often the last row
will need to be ripped lengthwise to fit. If the measurement for the last row is less
than 2” (allowing for required expansion space), it would best to rip the boards in
the first and last rows to balance the installation. If the ripped boards have to be
narrower than 2”, use a high quality carpenter’s glue in the tongue and groove to
secure the narrower boards to the wider adjoining planks.
• Remove any base, shoe, or threshold moldings prior to beginning installation.
These can be replaced at the end of the install.
• Under cut door jambs to allow for expansion space and to avoid difficult scribe
cuts. This can be done by using a small piece of the ooring as a guide/rest for your
jamb saw.
• The use of putty to fill small gaps or correct minor defects should be considered
normal in any wood ooring installation. When using putty on low sheen (gloss)
wood oors, use a plastic putty knife and remove excess immediately with a soft
cloth to prevent gloss-up of the finish.
CHECKING SUBFLOOR FLATNESS
• Use a straight edge to determine suboor atness (throughout oor). The
suboor should be at to within 3/16” in an 8’ area.
• High areas need to be sanded and low areas filled. NEVER SAND ANY EXISTING
FLOOR OR ADHESIVE SUSPECTED TO CONTAIN ASBESTOS OR CRYSTALLINE
SILICA (such as resilient vinyl or linoleum, or the adhesives used to bond them).
• High or low areas in the suboor could cause the oated oor to ex causing
squeaking, popping, or other noises. Over time this exing could also cause the
locking system to weaken resulting in gaps or loose boards in the oor.
CHECKING SUBFLOOR MOISTURE
WOOD SUBFLOORS:
• The moisture content of the suboor must be checked using a reputable
manufacturer’s moisture meter. Wood suboors should not exceed a 14% moisture
content, and the moisture variance between the wooden suboor and the new
ooring to be installed should not exceed 4%.
CONCRETE SUBFLOORS:
• When ooring is installed directly to a concrete suboor, one of the following
moisture tests is recommended:
• Calcium Chloride Test (maximum 3.0 pounds)
• Tramex Moisture Meter (maximum reading of 4.5)
• Delmhorst BD2100 Moisture Meter (reading of green/dry)
• RH (Relative Humidity) should not exceed 75% in slab
• Keep documentation of all moisture readings. If results indicate a moisture
problem exists, DO NOT INSTALL THE FLOORING! Most moisture issues can
be corrected easily (sealing, etc.). When corrected, retest the suboor to assure
moisture guidelines have been met.
SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
• Foam Underlayment
• 6-mil Polyethylene film
(if going over concrete)
• Roberts #1406 T&G Adhesive
• Chalk Line
• 3/8” Wood or Plastic Spacers
• T-square
• Tapping Block
• Pencil
• Measuring Tape
• Wood Chisel
• Safety Glasses
• Circular or Rip Saw
• Jamb Saw
• Dust Mask
• Knee Pads
• Pull Bar
TOOLS NEEDED
OVER WOOD SUBFLOORS
• Roll out underlayment butting the edges following manufacturer’s instructions.
The underlayment used over wood suboors does not require an attached moisture
vapor barrier, nor is a separate layer of 6-mil polyethylene film required.
OVER CONCRETE SUBFLOORS
• Loose-lay 6-mil polyethylene film as a moisture vapor barrier. Overlap the seams
of the poly by 8” and tape the seams with clear packaging tape. Poly should be lapped
up the wall but not touching the sheetrock. Roll out underlayment butting the edges
over the poly film following manufacturer’s instructions.
• NOTE: IF YOU ARE USING AN UNDERLAYMENT THAT CONTAINS A
MOISTURE VAPOR BARRIER ATTACHED, THE SEPARATE 6-MIL POLY LAYER IS
NOT REQUIRED.
LAYING THE FLOOR
• ALL BOARDS SHOULD BE
INSTALLED WITH THE TONGUE
SIDE FACING THE WALL.
• Begin installing the first row in the left corner of the room by laying a board at
on the underlayment. Apply a thin bead of glue in the groove end of the first board.
Align the end of the second board with the first and join these two boards together
by simply pushing straight down on top of the
first board. Repeat these steps to complete
the boards in the first row. Usually the last
board in the row will need to be cut to size.
If leftover cut pieces are longer than 12”, they
can be used as starter boards for future rows.
It is recommended to weigh down the boards
in the first row until the glued ends have time to set. Subsequent rows do not have
to be glued as they are installed.
• Insert wood or plastic spacers between the wall and the boards in the first row
to maintain the required expansion space for the oating oor. Additional spacers
will need to be added along all walls as the installation progresses to assure that the
proper expansion space is allowed around the perimeter of the room.
• Start the second row by holding the long side of the
board at approximately a 45 degree angle to the first
board in the first row. Engage the board sides by rotating
the board downward toward the oor while pushing it
against the edge of the first board. Repeat this step for
the other boards in the second row, cutting the last board to size if necessary. (Note:
A tapping block can be helpful when engaging ooring boards.)
• Install the third row and subsequent rows in the same manner as described above.
Once three rows have been installed, recheck the spacers to be sure they are tight
against the wall. If necessary, adjust the oor to ensure the installation is square.
• The boards in the last row often need to be ripped lengthwise to the needed
width (be sure to allow for the required expansion space). Mark the boards to
be ripped to the correct width including the contours/irregularities of the wall as
needed.
• After the oor is completely installed, remove spacers, install moldings, vacuum
to remove grit and thoroughly clean the oor with an approved hardwood oor
cleaner. If the oor needs to be covered for protection, use a breathable material
like craft paper or clean, uncoated and unprinted cardboard. Never cover a newly
installed wood oor with plastic, coated materials or adhesive backed films that can
trap moisture.
INSTALLING FLOOR
Tongue Side