Remote Starter User Manual

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Instructions for the Estart Kit XR400

Read the instructions before you do anything and if there are questions call 408.924.0139

First off you must be competent with basic hand tools and be patient otherwise you might break a lot

of things. The only special tool required is a Honda Fly Wheel Puller, which can be had at any local

bike store.

Lets begin. First put the bike on a Jack or stand and drain all of the oil. There is a plug by the

alternator side to help drain the left side.

Remove the seat, tank, skid plate shift lever, and the connectors from the alternator cover. You will

have to remove the crank vent assembly; now I can’t legally tell you to throw it as faraway as possible

but when they stick and they do it will blow out every seal in your motor. Now I can’t tell you to

replace it but I have seen people run a hose up to the air box and put on a little uni-filter. Keep it high

up if you forge deep streams. Remember I can’t tell you to do this so if you do its on your on accord.

Next remove the alternator cover from the motor. Pull out the stud that’s left in the engine case. Now

carefully remove the three 8mm screw and 2 8mm screws holding the stator and pick-up. (Hint

degreases every thing makes life easier). Be aware of how the cable and cable hold-downs are

situated.

Now carefully install the stator (hopefully you got a

200 watt version) and pick-up in the new cover use

locktite on the screws (just a little please). Bend the

cable tabs a bit to make sure it does not rub. You

may have to pull the wires through the rubber

grommet, as some stators are a little short. It is

imperative that there is enough strain relief in the

harness.

Remove the Alternator/flywheel, and inspect the key

to make sure there are no burrs or distortions.

Check the crank to make sure it’s clean and

smooth. If not sand with Emory cloth. It is

imperative that there are no high spots or burrs

other wise you will experience the sadness of your

bike dying due to shavings collecting on the coils

from the fly wheel rubbing.

Now in stall the Shim marked P1, (This is the thicker of the two shims) follow with the crank adapter.

Hint: Rotate motor so key is facing up.

Crank adapter

Summary of content (14 pages)

PAGE 1
Instructions for the Estart Kit XR400 Read the instructions before you do anything and if there are questions call 408.924.0139 First off you must be competent with basic hand tools and be patient otherwise you might break a lot of things. The only special tool required is a Honda Fly Wheel Puller, which can be had at any local bike store. Lets begin. First put the bike on a Jack or stand and drain all of the oil. There is a plug by the alternator side to help drain the left side.
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Tap the crank adapter with a soft mallet to help set it in place. If you have a dial indicator it would be a good time to check the run out. Install the Joeracer key in the adapter making sure that it is sitting flush and snug with no burrs folds spindles or mutilations. Next install the needle bearing over the adapter making sure to grease well. Now install part 3 from the clutch assembly sketch, paying attention to the correct direction the gear is in-stalled.
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Note the position of ft the key and the drive pins. Make sure everything rotates freely and apply a libbrial amount of motor oil. (At this point the clutch will only rotate freely in one direction. In stall the second shim (part 9 from the clutch assembly sketch Honda part). Now carefully align the flywheel to the key, you will have to rotate the clutch assembly to align the drive holes with the 2 holes in the flywheel. Carefully! Tap the flywheel in place.
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We no longer use the machined socket head screws. The button heads should be installed last after the flywheel is torqued down and the assembly is rotates to center the clutch. Through the two holes in the fly wheel install the button heads and locktite torqued to 20 ft. lbs. Now install the 75x12x1.25 mm bolt, washer (use the original) and lock washer and torque down to 70 ft.lbs. (no more no less if you do it will distort the crank adapter).
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Now locate the over flow hose’s from the carb. At the engine case there is a metal rod that holds them in place. Remove the screw and rod, as that’s where the starter bolts to the case. From the flywheel side slide the starter and align with the screw hole that you removed the rod from. From your pile of old case bolts find a screw about 35 mm (1.25) or so and reinstall the metal rod on top of the screw.
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Now is the scary part. Be very careful. Put the gasket on the engine case with the dowels. If the dowels are on the alternator, cover case remove them and put them in the engine case. Now carefully install the alternator. Cover. The magnets on the flywheel will want to pull it on so have a good grip. If everything is nasty oily greasy, clean it NOW! You will have to fudge with the starter motor to align it. Ok now if everything is in place per the assembly drawing start putting in screws.
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Ok having had lunch or dinner and resting, the fun starts. I won’t go in to a lot of text here. I’ll show pictures it’s pretty easy. The most complicated part is the battery mount and air box mod. But before we do that. Knowing that the bike runs, replace the stock CDI with the Dynatek box. Read the directions once then read it again. Now pull out the spark plug and make sure we got spark. If that’s cool then follow the pictures forthwith shows.
PAGE 8
Drill two matching holes in the inner fender and fasten with either the rivets or screws, use washers on both sides. If you use screws use button heads. If you use rivets use the big head type with backing washers. Use the straps to tie down the battery. Note: The new battery box has two legs as opposed to an angle bracket. The rest of the pictures show the install of the wiring. I’ll assume you know red is positive.
PAGE 9
Location of button Connect the button wires to the solenoid harness Route on tank pad so wires wont get pinched or connectors come loose.
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Solenoid connector and ground strap, which connects to air filter, mount bolt. This is the positive wire for the Solenoid and the starter cable, which goes to the solenoid post.
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This is what it should look like when you getting close. The short cable goes from the battery positive to the solenoid; the starter cable is on the other post.
PAGE 12
Well? What are you waiting for start your engine! Some advice: Charge the battery fully! Crank the motor with the release in to charge the caps in the CDI box and then freshen the fuel charge in the cylinder. With the choke on full hit the button for a few seconds then dump the release lever, the bike, if jetted properly should fire right up. The skid plate may need to be bent to clear the case and the shift lever will need to be tweaked I bent it by putting it in a vise before the weld.
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Electric Start Option Honda OEM parts PN 0100-1000r4 Parts for clutch assy.