Product Manual
Table Of Contents
- Symbols on the machine:
- Symbols in the operator’s manual:
- Contents
- Dear Customer,
- Before using a new chain saw
- Important
- Always use common sense
- Personal protective equipment
- Machine¢s safety equipment
- Chain brake and front hand guard
- Will my hand always activate the chain brake during a kickback?
- Will my inertia activated chain brake always activate during kickback in the event of a kickback?
- Will my chain brake always protect me from injury in the event of a kickback?
- Throttle trigger lockout
- Chain catcher
- Right hand guard
- Vibration damping system
- Stop switch
- Muffler
- Cutting equipment
- Fitting the bar and chain
- Fuel
- Fueling
- Fuel safety
- Starting and stopping
- Before use:
- General working instructions
- How to avoid kickback
- Carburettor adjustment
- Carburettor with movement limiters
- Carburettor without movement limiters
- Checking, maintaining and servicing chain saw safety equipment
- Muffler
- Starter housing
- Air filter
- Spark plug
- Lubricating the bar tip sprocket
- Needle bearing lubrication
- Adjustment of the oil pump
- Cooling system
- ”Air Injection” centrifugal cleaning
- Winter use
- Heated handles
- Maintenance schedule
- Technical data
- Guide bar and saw chain combinations
- Saw chain filing and file gauges
- EC Declaration of Conformity
WORKING TECHNIQUES
26 – English
Directional cuts
To make the directional cut you begin with the top cut. Aim
using to the saw’s felling direction mark (1) toward a goal
further forward in the terrain, where you would like the tree
to fall (2). Stand on the right-hand side of the tree, behind
the saw, and cut with a pull stroke.
Next make the bottom cut so that it finishes exactly at the
end of the top cut.
The directional cuts should run 1/4 of the diameter
through the trunk and the angle between the top cut and
bottom cut should be 45
°.
The line where the two cuts meet is called the directional
cut line. This line should be perfectly horizontal and at
right angles (90
°) to the chosen felling direction.
Felling cut
The felling cut is made from the opposite side of the tree
and it must be perfectly horizontal. Stand on the left side
of the tree and cut on the pull stroke.
Make the felling cut about 3-5 cm (1.5-2 inches) above the
bottom directional cut.
Set the spiked bumper (if one is fitted) just behind the
felling hinge. Use full throttle and advance the chain/bar
slowly into the tree. Make sure the tree does not start to
move in the opposite direction to your intended felling
direction. Drive a wedge or breaking bar into the cut as
soon as it is deep enough.
Finish the felling cut parallel with the directional cut line so
that the distance between them is at least 1/10 of the
trunk diameter. The uncut section of the trunk is called the
felling hinge.
The felling hinge controls the direction that the tree falls in.
All control over the felling direction is lost if the felling
hinge is too narrow or non-existent, or if the directional
cuts and felling cut are badly placed.
When the felling cut and directional cut are complete the
tree should start to fall by itself or with the aid of a felling
wedge or breaking bar.
We recommend that you use a bar that is longer than the
diameter of the tree, so that you can make the felling cut
and directional cuts with single cutting strokes. See
instructions under the heading Technical data section to
find out which lengths of bar are recommended for your
saw.
There are methods for felling trees with a diameter larger
than the bar length. However these methods involve a
much greater risk that the kickback zone of the bar will
come into contact with the tree.