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i:i For you and your new sewing machine We have prepared this booklet, to let you know how to operate this sewing machine and how to make use of all its sewing possibilities. We are quite sure that you will get man y pleasant hours with your new sewing machin e and that you will be successful in obtaining many fine results.
Table of contents Instructions Sewing Unpacking and putting away the machine 4 Connecting the machine 5 Connecting to wall outlet, connecting the foot control, main switch, speed control, needle stop position Machine parts 6—7 The front and rear of the machine, names of parts Function 8—9 Working surface, presser bar lever, presser foot pressure, lowering the feed dog Bobbin winding, threading 10—11 Thread tension 12—13 Accessory box 14—17 Presser feet, thread, needles, etc.
Unpacking and putting away the machin e Unpacking Place the machine on the table, with the recess for the handle furthest away from you, and fold down the handle. Lift off the cover and put it aside. Remove the foot control from the back of the mach ine. Wipe the machine clean before you start sewing, and be especially careful with the stitc h plate and the space around the needle. The machine is equipped with a number of presser feet and these are packed in two plastic bags.
Connecting the foot control Connecting the machine Remove the cord from the foot control and place the control under the table. Insert the foot control plug into the socket on the right side of the machine. Connecting to the wall outlet The voltage (V) and frequency (Hz) are indicated under the base of the machine. Chec k that these values correspond to those of the electricity source before con necting the machine. I I Main switch The light and the machine are turned on by pressing the main switch.
Machine parts 4 a 27 A : LU 31 7 8 1c 11 12 13 14 32 33 rJ A 17 18 35 36 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 6 Handle Thread tension dial Thread guide Thread tension discs Thread take-up lever Presser foot pressure dial Front thread guide with thread take-up spring Sewing light Needle bar with needle clamp Presser foot ankle Needle plate (stitch plate) Feed dog 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24.
Machine parts 34— U 39—< 31 3 — 4 c 36— 1. 3. 6. 8. 10. 11. Handle Thread guide Presser foot pressure dial Sewing light Presser foot ankle Needle plate (stitch plate) 13. 18. 19. 21. 22. 31. Free arm Base plate Needle clamp screw Presser foot Presser bar lever Handwheel 34. 36. 38. 39. 40.
Function Working surface The working surface around the stitch plate consists partly of the upper side of the accessory box and partly of the machine itself, i.e. the free arm. Retain the accessory box on the mach ine when you require a larger working surface. Pull the accessory box to the left and remove it if you wish to use the free arm. Pant legs and sleeves can be drawn onto the free arm, making it easy to sew, mend or patch these parts.
Function Presser foot pressure The presser foot pressure can be adjusted with the aid of a marked dial on the left side of the machine. Normal pressure is obtained by setting the dial at the white dot but for some fabrics it may be better to reduce or increase the pressure. The higher the number, the greater the pressure. By setting the dial at the symbol the pressure foot pressure is completely released. This setting should be used when free-hand sewing with the darning foot, i.e. darning.
Bobbin winding Removing the bobbin case Open the door in front of the shuttle by means of the small recess on the left side. Grip the bobbin case with the thumb and index finger so that the latch is depressed and pull the bobbin case out. The bobbin will remain in the case as long as the latch is depressed. When you release the latch, the bob bin will be released. Bobbin winding Turn the empty bobbin until the small round dot on one side is outward.
Threading, thread tension Threading the lower thread When the bobbin winding is finished, place the bobbin beside its case with the marking upward. The thread should run as shown in the figure. Place the bobbin in its case without turning it around. Slide the thread into the slot on the edge of the bobbin case. Pull the thread in under the tension spring. Check that the bobbin rotates in the direction of the arrow (clockwise) when the thread is pulled.
Thread tension Thread cutters I On the back of the presser bar you will find a notch. the thread cutter, by means of which you can easily cut off the threads when you have finished sewing. There is a special thread cutter for the bobbin thread. See page 11 “Insertion of the bobbin case”. I IL Tension of the upper thread The dial which regulates the tension of the upper thread is graduated from 0—10. The higher the number, the tighter the tension.
Thread tension Correct and incorrect thread ten sion In order to easily understand the importance of correct thread tension, you can try diff erent thread tensions by sewing on a scrap of fabric. Beg in by using an excessively loose tension, i.e. set the tension dial near “0”. Look at the fabric and you will find that the lower thread lies straight and the upper thread is drawn underneath the fabric. If, however, you set the dial at the highest number, the opposite will occ ur, or the seam may pucker.
Accessory box Accessory box To obtain the best sewing results you should select the correct presser foot for the type of sewing you are doing. The presser feet are marked with letters and above each stitch on the control panel you will find a letter which will help you to make the right selection. By means of these feet you will be able to carry out practically all types of sewing work. There are additional accessories to assist you with special work.
Accessory box Glide plates The glide plates fit presser foot A and E. These plates can be used when sewing on foam plastic, plastic-coated fabric and leather imitations. They will minimize the risk of these materials sticking to the presser foot. Peel off the protective paper and press the self-adhe sive side of the glide plate against the underside of the presser foot. Changing the presser foot If you wish to change the presser foot, check that the needle is at its upper position.
Accessory box Needle and thread L.SL( ., c) The machine is delivered with a spoo l of synthetic thread, which can be used for all type s of fabrics and most seams. Mercerized cotton can also he used. When sewing decorative stitches, emb roidery silk No. 30—50 is generally used. It prod uces attractive buttonholes and topstitching and can also be used for darning. Always use the recommended need les (code 130/ 705 H). The size is denoted by a num ber. The needle fitted in the machine is No. 80.
Accessory box Needle design In most cases the standard needle is the most suitable and the thickness of the needle should be adapted to the type of thread and fabric. However, when sewing certain fabrics, another design of the needle point can produce better results. You will find two needles in the needle case with the description “Stretch” (completely blue). These needles have rounder tips and should be used when sewing light elastic fabrics.
Control panel Control panel There is a control panel on the upper part of the machine for setting the various stitches, etc. By means of the symbols you can select all the settings needed for sewing. The symbol to the left denotes reverse feeding. As long as the button is depressed the machine will sew the selected stitch in reverse When you press the button under one of the symbols, the machine will automatically select a stitch width and length suitable in most cases.
General hints The best way to hold the fabric is to let your left hand rest lightly on the work at A and guide it forward. Hold the edge of the fabric at B with your right hand and guide the work. Do not pull the fabric—-just guide it toward the presser foot and let the machine do the feeding. When you wish to sew straight stitch, place the work so that the needle goes down in the center of the markin g for the seam. When sewing zig-zag and other wide stitches, e.g.
Sewing with straight stitching Straight stitching If you switch on the main switch or press the button for stitch No. 3 so that the light above the symbol for straight stitch goes on, the machine will automatically be set for stitch length 2.5. This stitch is suitable for joining pieces of fabric which will not stretch and for seams which will not he subjected to strain. When sewing elastic fabrics, or when an extra strong seam is necessary, use elastic straight stitch, stitch No. 7.
Sewing with straight stitching Topstitching For topstitching on lighter fabrics, fine thread and needle should generally be used. The picture shows topstitching on lawn cotton, sewn with ordinary straight stitching, stitch length 3—4 and ordinary sewing thread. Topstitching is more attractive on double fabric. A L - r — fL fr ir 1 “ 7. rr--r- - — • .— 4. ti _J- 5 A;i . . fil 1 _k3 fi.rn.
Sewing with straight stitching Basting When sewing simpler garments you can save time by inserting pins at right angles to the seam. Then sew the seam removing each pin as you come to it. If you are careful, use fine pins, and relatively long stitches, you can sew right across the pins. However, you run the risk of blunting the needle, or breaking the needle or pins. Machine basting facilitates trying on the garment. Pin the seams as described above.
Sewing with straight stitching Sewing in zippers The zipper foot E can be attached so that it is located either to the right or to the left of the needle, making it easy to sew both sides of the zipper. To sew the other side of the zipper, re-position the zipper foot. Lapped zipper Baste the opening together using decreas ed upper thread tension and long stitches. Leave approx. 2 cm (3/4”) open at the top. Turn the work so that the wrong side is up.
Sewing with straight stitching Slot zipper Baste the opening together b machine with long stitches and decreased upper thread tension. Leave about 1” open at the top Press the seam open and baste or tape the zipper under the seam. Place the zipper foot E to the left of the needle. Use the lower needle stop position. Start at the bottom and sew the right edge of the zipper as illustrated. Open the zipper before the seam is fin ished, raise the zipper foot and pull the tab behind the foot.
Sewing with straight stitching Raised seams Exchange the ordinary needle for a twin needle and be sure that it is pushed all the way up into the needle clamp. Change to presser foot F. If you wish to use small cording, fit the raised seam plate 411 39 25—01 with its straight edge toward you, inserting the cord at the same time. Place a spool of thread on each of the spool pins and let one of the threads go on the outside and the other one go through the thread guide on the needle clamp.
Sewing with zig-zag Zig-zag By pressing the push-button for stitch No. 4 so that the e light above the symbol for zig-zag goes on, the machin length (stitch will automatically be set for sewing a seam 2, stitch width 2), which is suitable for many sewing operations like gathering with shirring elastic, bound edging, sewing on appliqués and lace. It can also be used for overcasting but in most cases, however, three-step zig-zag is recommended for better binding of the threads and a neater appearance.
Sewing with zig-zag Gathering with zig-zag Gathering by zig-zagging over elastic cording gives soft, supple gathering for smocking and elastic in blouses, children’s clothes and nightwear. The elastic can he stretched while sewing or when the seam is finished. The latter method is particularly suitable when sewing sever al rows of gathering.
Sewing with zig-zag Attaching lace The simplest way to attach lace is to place it 1/2’ orso in on the fabric and stitch with fairly close zig-zag (stitch length 0.5, stitch width 3). Trim from the wrong side. The lace will be more firmly attached if it is first placed approx. 1/2’ in on the fabric and sewn on with narrow, widely-spaced zig-zag, stitch length 1.5 and stitch width 2.
Sewing with three-step zig-zag Three-step zig-zag By pressing the push-button for stitch No. 5 so that the light above the symbol for three-step zig-zag goes on, the machine will automatically be set for sewing a seam (stitch length 1.2, stitch width 4) which is suitable for overcasting the majority of fabrics, particularly fine stretch or easily-frayed fabrics. It has many advantages compared to ordinary zig-zag. It is more elastic and does not pucker the edges of the fabric.
Sewing with three-step zig-zag Overcasting Trim the edges of the fabric before overcasting. Make sure that the needle reaches over the edge of the fabric. It is enough to allow the edge of the fabric to follow the right marking on the presser foot. For smooth fabrics, use presser foot A but for overcasting terry cloth, presser foot B is recommended, as illustrated in the lower picture.
Sewing with three-step zi-a ‘- , Mending Three-step zig-zag is a versatile stitch which can be utilized for mending and darning the majority of materi als. Use presser foot A. The thread should be the same color as the fabric. The setting should be adapted to the material. Stitch length 0.5—1. When mending a tear, place the edges of the fabric together and sew them together with three-step zig-zag.
Sewing buttonholes C.fl 0* [UE] E ‘i I F — [iZ] T F — to W a s q w a ua e a a a a a IflO Ft a [a I Buttonholes if you press the push-button for buttonholes (No. 1) so that the light above the symbol goes on, the machine will automatically be set for sewing a buttonhole (stitch length 0.6, stitch width 5) which is suitable for the major ity of ordinary fabrics. Change to presser foot C, which you will find in the accessory box, and attach it in the same way as the other presser feet.
Sewing buttonholes Ordinary buttonholes Mark on the fabric where you want to place the but tonhole. Insert the fabric under the presser foot. remem bering that the machine will begin to sew in reverse. Hold the upper thread at a right angle to the left. Press push-button No. 1 so that the light above the buttonhole symbol goes on. Start to sew. Stop when you reach the required column length. By holding the thread end as illustrated it is easier to check that the second column is the correct length. ,.. .
Sewing buttonholes Reinforced buttonholes t If a more raised and tight buttonhole is required, sew once more withou s: follow as the bar tacks, l Press push-button No. 1 so that the light above the buttonhole symbo left the under goes on. Increase the stitch length by pressing the + button digital indicator. Sew the first column to the required length. Press the reverse feed button twice and sew the other column the same length. Re-press the reverse feed button twice and sew the first column once more.
Sewing buttonholes Corded buttonholes A small cord can be used to sew buttonholes in elastic material, in order to keep the shape better. Attach the cord around the projection at the heel of the buttonhole foot as shown in the illustration. Draw the cords toward you, one under each groove in the presser foot. Lower the foot and sew the buttonhole in the normal way. Note: Do not hold the cords.
Sewing on buttons Sewing on buttons By pressing push-button No. 2 so that the light above goes on, the machine will be the button symbol automatically set for sewing on buttons. Lower the feed dog. Remove the presser foot. Put the button in place on the garment and lower the presser bar so that the presser foot ankle is in the center of the holes in the button. Hold the thread ends to one side. Turn the handwheel and test carefully that the needle enters the left hole of the but ton.
Sewing with flatlock Flatlock By pressing the push-button for stitch No. 6 so that the e light above the symbol for flatlock goes on, the machin tive decora seams, ping overlap sew to set is automatically hems,binding and edges on woven and elastic fabrics. The standard setting for the stitch length is 3.0 and the stitch width 5. The length and width can be changed if required. To sew an overlapping seam, lap one piece of fabric 1.
Sewing with reinforced straight stitch Reinforced straight stitch By pressing the push-button for stitch No. 7 so that the light above the symbol for reinforced straight stitch goes on, the machine is automatically set to join seams in stretch fabrics. It can also be used for topstitching in stretch fabrics. The standard setting for the stitch length is 3.0. It can be increased to 4.5 or decreased when necessary.
____________________ Sewing with reinforced zig-zag I ÷ F — 0* • q a a a a.. çp a a a •••• eac•••e ••a•• •• • 1FII 3• Ii RI Ia 4. I IT 8 Ia Ia hi a 113 14 11 i lu ia [i zo Reinforced zig-zag (Ric-Rac) By pressing the push-button for stitch No. 7 so that the light above the symbol for reinforced straight stitch goes on, you can also sew Ric-Rac. Set the width by pressing the + button under the right digital indicator. Use presser foot B.
___________________ Sewing with bridging stitch e* • Cfl P I? 8 P # P 8 8 17 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 ,ee ••ac •s•• ••a•• •e• L°J rq.. [+F.—[i [—1 Ft 1a 1[r ai iIw i[ia wi11L[irta[azl Bridging stitch By pressing the push-button for stitch No. 8 so that the light above the symbol for the bridging stitch goes on, the machine is automatically set for sewing a seam which can be used for joining two pieces of fabric with folded edges. The standard setting for the stitch length is 1.
Sewing with overcast stitch Overcast stitch By pressing the push-button for stitch No. 9 so that the light above the symbol for overcast stitch goes on, the machine is automatically set for joining and overcasting the edges of light woven and stretch fabrics like cham bray, taffeta, nylon cire and silky-knits (jersey). The standard setting for the stitch length is 2.5 and for the stitch width 5 and this can be increased or decteased depending on the fabric and how tight you wish the seam to be.
Sewing with double overlock Double overlock By pressing the push-button for stitch No. 10 so that the light above the symbol for the double overlo ck stitch goes on, the machine is automatically set to sew over casting or for joining and finishing a seam in one opera tion in both stretch and non-stretch fabrics. The standard setting for the stitch length is 3.0 and for the stitch width 5.0. The length and width can be changed if required.
Sewing with overlock Overlock By pressing the push-button for stitch No. 11 so that the light above the symbol for the overlock stitch goes on, the machine is automatically set to sew a seam which joins and finishes in one operation. It is elastic and binds the edges well. It can be used on all fabrics but is particu larly suitable for producing narrow, supple stretch seams in double-knit, jersey, stretch terry cloth and other knit ted fabrics. The standard setting for the stitch length is 3.
__ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ B lindstitching cn [71 V; L+ F __s *[ç B ann a ao a a 888888 •e .e ...•eo .• •••• * [:4T 5 a [a; Blindstitching By pressing the push-button for stitc h No. 12 so that the light above the symbol for blin dstitching goes on, the machine is automatically set for sew ing a seam which has small zig-zag stitches between the larger zig-zag stitches. It is used for hemming skirts mad e of woven and knitted fabrics, without the stitches being visible on the right side.
Blindstitching Fold the fabric as illustrated. Make sure that the fold line of the fabric rides in the groove under the left side of the presser foot. Test sew a few stitches and compare the results with the illustrations. The picture to the left shows how the stitches fail to reach the fold line of the fabric. A check should be made that the fold line of the fabric rides in the groove and, if necessary, increase the stitch width slight ly by pressing the + button under the right digital indi cator.
__________ __________ _ Sewing decorative designs . cn n nan nn a a a a a a a a a a ... ••••.......... .. . C F ‘. I + I * I iEiw (iL_13 Is G Ii a Is in In [iTh4. [ii Is [if is [is zo C Decorative stitches Stitch No. 13 up to and including No. 20 are mainly for use as decorative stitches. By pressing the push-button under the symbol so that the light above the selected symbol goes on, the machine is automatically set to sew the stitch pattern indicated.
Sewing decorative designs Mirroring By pressing the mirroring push-button after selecting a pattern stitch the upper light will go on. The machine will now sew the pattern in the reverse image. By pressing the same push-button again the light above the lower blue symbol will go on. The machine will now alternate the pattern stitch once the original way and once mir rored, as indicated by the lower blue symbol.
Maintenance Care of the machine To keep your sewing machine operating satisfactorily it requires, like other precision machines, regular clean ing. It need not, however, be lubricated. The stitch plate should occasionally be removed. Re move the presser foot and lower the feed dog. There is a recess in the free arm to the right above the hook cover. Push the stitch plate straight up approx. 1 mm and back ward at the same time until it loosens.
Maintenance Changing the light bulb The machine is equipped with two lights, to provide the best possible lighting and avoid shadowing from the presser bar and needle bar. They are located on each side of the needle bar, as illustrated. In both cases, the plastic guard can be removed by inserting the small screwdriver at the rear edge of the guard, by the arrows, and apply ing slight downward leverage. Do not turn the light, just pull it downward and fit in a new one.
Fault-finding Why haven’t I got the results I expected? Very seldom does anything go wrong with this sewing machine. It is well constructed and can withstand very intensive use. Yes, generally it performs better the more it is used. However, below you will find some advice if, in spite of everything, you are not satisfied with your sewing results. Always start by checking the needle An important part which needs to be changed from time to time is the needle.
Fault-finding Why haven’t I got the results I expected? (cont.) Uneven thread tension This may be due to poor quality thread. Irregular bobbin winding The bobbin is not placed correctly. See page 11. The machine is not correctly threaded for bobbin winding. See page 10. The fabric puckers The upper thread tension is too tight. See page 13 for correct thread tension. The machine does not feed the fabric The stitch length is too short. Press the + button. The feed dog may be lowered.
Needle assortment F9 Only use needles of System 130/705 H. 401 60 86-01. Needle No 60. 401 60 89-01. Needle No 70. 401 60 92-01. Needle No 80. 401 60 96-01. Needle No 90. 401 60 99-01. Needle No 100, 401 61 02-01. Needle No 110. 401 61 06-01. Needle No 120. 401 58 19-01. Needle case containing 1 No 70, 2 No 80, 1 No 90, 1 twin needle No 80 with 2 mm needle gap. 401 61 19-01. Needle case containing 1 No 80, 3 No 90, 1 No 100. 411 07 14-01. Needle case containing 3 No 80, 2 No 90. 411 45 18-01.
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Extra accessories LI 411 26 83-01. Cutting needle No 100 for sewing on leather or thick skin. / 411 26 84-01. Wing needle produces a hemstitch effect. Can be used for zig-zag and pattern stitching. Maximum stitch width setting 4. / 411 85 86-01. Finger guard, effectively protects your fingers while sewing. 411 26 85-01102/03. Slotted needles Nos 80, 90 and 100, for people with impaired vision. When threading, pass the thread along the needle, until it glides into the slot.
Extra accessories 41185 11-01. Presser foot withseven holes for decorative stitching over yarn or for satin-stitching with wide zig-zag. 41162 87-01. Thread the needle threader from under neath the presser foot and draw the threads down through the holes. 411 85 10-01. Piping presser foot for fastening tape with a flat and round part (piping). Only the round part will be visible when the tape is in place. 4118501-01. Braid guide, facili tates guiding tape, cord, etc. 411 85 00-01.
Extra accessories 411 73 90-01. Darning foot. For darning with straight stitching when the work is stretched in a hoop. For darning socks use zig-zag stitching. The material is guid ed by hand. Set presser foot pressure at darning symbol. 411 85 27-01. Edging presser foot. For overcasting with zig-zag or joining fine, slippery fabrics with overcast stitch. t. . 411 85 29-01. Roller presser foot.
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Extra aLsskrids 411 85 84-01. Dual feeder. To be used for materials which easily shift, e.g. plastic, velvet, etc. LTseful also for checked and striped fabrics. 411 85 04-01. Bias binder for edging with bias tape. For use with 24 mm (1”) unfolded tape. zig-zag or decorative stitch. 411 85 35-01. Straight stitch presser foot. For straight stitching in fine fabrics. It compresses the fabric more firmly to the stitch plate. Use only stitch width 0. 411 85 02-01. Presser foot for gathering.
Extra accessories —3 1,) -1 • 411 85 03-01. Marker presser foot. By using this foot fabric. you can transfer markings from paper patterns to ZUt-_:• 3, 411 85 26-01. Attachment for circular sewing. Stretch the fabric over an embroidery hoop, place a thumbtack in the middle as a pivot point and attach the guide over the pivot thumbtack. • • - 1= • 1; 1• I L=1 IF ri iE[ L1 401 53 67-01. Hemstitcher.
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We reserve the right to change the machine equipment without any previous notice, or make modifications in the design or appearance of the machine, which do not negatively affect the function.
