U!N!A leflUelAl 6u!MOS 6 I
CONTENTS General hints 2— 3 Steps in sewing 4—27 Marking Basting Overcasting and assembling Top stitching Buttonholes Eyelets Loops Sewing on buttons, buckles, etc.
This is part two” of the instructional literature that comes with your Viking sewing machine. r want “Part one” is the Operating Manual. Wheneve you r to orde in do to check which dial to turn or what else to , ation oper make your machine perform a specific sewing kly. you can look it up in the Operating Manual, quicing. read now are you h The Sewing Manual, whic t find contains many additional sewing hints that you migh it has let book rate helpful.
General hints RIGHT WRONG WRONG e fabric you are a tension test on th ent together. try to se wi s ay w al garm It is ing to sew your wa using before beginn cut of the fabric in half and se ofT an o ld tw th e is To do th e grain: th the direction of th o layers of fabrics. straight seam in tw e th n ck betwee threads should lo lies along the underneath of the ad re th er w e top thread If the lo thread through.
the needle down in the When turning a corner stop with ping the machine in stop when fabric. This also applies order to re-arrange the work, reverse button. Lock the seam ends by pressing the rds. This prevents kwa bac sew e hin making the mac ng zig-zag sewi n Whe stitches from coming undone. stitches with few a ng sewi by end stitches lock the seam the feed dog lowered. e is no need to lock With the elastic straight stitch ther e automatically.
Marking ; —I— .‘ - - - - - - to transfer all ent it is necessary rm ga ur yo t cu g Havin to the fabric. On m the paper pattern can mark with fro s on cti tru ins the u s delicate fabrics yo cotton and other les eel or with chalk or pencil. For wh marking paper and e the Viking ate fabrics you us lic de re mo d an er machine for fin t (41 13 931). Set the marking presser foo 2—2.5 and stitch width 2. Reduce zig-zag stitch length buttonhole symbol test). thread tension to the • - — 4 — fabric.
aDLII ., —. 7 _.. I - - - \/3: rt and snip the stitches Pull the pieces of the fabric apa threads now remain in The ric. between the layers of fab els and show where the fabric in the form of small tass the seams are to be sewn. to the reverse side Tape-Sew hint. Attach pieces of tape directions on write the of the pieces of garment and sleeve”. “upper collar”. t “lef . ve” slee ht “rig them i.e. . buttonholes. etc.. can kets poc etc. The positions of the also be marked ith the tape.
Overcasting and assembling PRESSED OPEN SEAMS the fabric are formed by first overcasting the edges of of type r othe with three-step zig-zag or some together overcasting seam. and then sewing the pieces ic. elast or ary ordin r eithe . seam t straigh a with it is wise to overcast the edges of every piece If it is individually before sewing the garment together. seam the necessary to adjust the seam and cut off the other allowance, it can easily be overcast again.
pieces of fabric Straight stitch can he used for joining to be subjected y likel not are and ic which are not elast n. strai to much ture and The normal stitch length is 2.
ER CAST TOGETH H EDGES OVER e pieces together and SEAMS WIT th when you stitch stitch. are obtained n use elastic knit ca ou Y p. ste e on in st ca over tch. ck or overcast sti ance. Using presser double overlo w lo al am se ” ic a 114 Calculate ith 2 you can let the edge of the fabr 51 as . 14 ot fo r 31 se o. es N pr e foot king on th ar m d an -h ht rig follow the shown. ce you have am allowance on se ng ni ai m re e Trim th . finished the seam N —.-.
c! M1i1 ll itill 1: jijI ‘ 11j ) t1 : sting Double overlock can he used for sewing and overca . fabrics retch non-st and stretch both in one operation in ideal re therefo is and et close-s very is sting overca The for loosely woven, rough textured materials and fabrics that tend to fray. I l 1 4 if Ii OVERLAP SEAMS are soft and pliant and therefore ideal for baby and children’s clothes and for sewing in leather. Place the seam allowances on top of each other (matching the markings).
Top stitching using can be achieved by Attractive top stitching and varying methods. as es several types of stitch page. The jacket shown here e sit po op the on shown with Ric Rac. has top stitching done l0 le fabric. In ld be done on doub The stitching shou use interfacing. to le even advisab thinner fabrics it is the skirts shown above has been The top stitching on es.
stitching on Use fine thread and a fine needle for top hing on stitc s top show re pictu The cs. thinner fabri ght stitch. strai ary ordin with cotton cambric performed d. threa ng sewi ary long stitches and ordin materials to give Coarser thread can be used in thicker shows top re pictu The t. effec a more pronounced silk, ordinary e nhol butto hetic synt with sewn stitching 6. th straight seam and stitch leng j%i.- - • hing in Elastic straight stitch gives attractive top stitc d. threa fine knit.
Buttonholes 15mm 3mm 18mm :“‘ e by measuring of the buttonhol nding on the th ng le e th e in m depe Deter ding 1/10” to 3/16” the button and ad tton and the fabric. The distance l ua thickness of the bu e garment should normally be eq th of ge ed e from th e button. to the width of th sure that the tape . check first to enpe pe ta g in ld preferably us n he W bric. The ta shoun so that you fa e th e ag m da t positio does no ide the buttonhole be placed alongs e tape.
You can make a reinforced buttonhole, by sewing the “columns” twice as described in your Operating Manual, or make a corded buttonhole, by sewing over a coarse thread, buttonhole twist thread or gimp thread. Corded buttonholes are recommended whenever you sew with knitted or stretch fabrics. Attach a gimp thread loop as shown in the picture around the projection at the heel of the buttonhole foot (41 11 650). Draw the gimp threads towards you, one under each groove in the presser foot.
s Making eyeletj’ Making loops 1 I it is posibIe to l eyelet plate. Plates are ia ec sp a of d ai lts. etc. With the /32”). embroidery, be make eyelets in s of 4 mm 15/32”) and 6mm (7. Lower ly le ve ho ti r aailahle fo 855-02 respec attach the -0l and 41 IS r foot and No.41 15 55 pr ove the esse hooks at the rear of em R g. do ed fe e th the plate by sliding and then press down the special e’. elet s ot sl g do ed fe oidery e the plate into th Darning or preferably embr tension e. e at th pl ed.
- Sewing on buttons, DucKlets, eu. s and eyes. Not only buttons. but also rings, large hook presser the ove Rem ine. mach by etc. may he sewn on the er Low e. ankl foot er press the only ng foot. leavi tion posi and left-h the feed dog. Set the stitch selector in the on Sew h. widt h stitc ct and test to find the corre t stitches. You button. ring or buckle with seven or eigh of stitches. by row a can also attach the ring. etc. with lly, fasten the Fina ards.
Gathering the most stitch length is d se ea cr in ith w obtained if the Gathering best results are imately 3 or he T d. ho et m ox appr common ly increased to slightly. stitch length is on thread tension is loosened r by side pe de up si e sewn 3.5 and th g stitches are in er d th lle ga pu of s en w th Two ro ws are s from both ro g.
le Gathering with sheer elastic gives soft, stretchab and gathering for use on blouses, children’s garments and front in nightwear. Hold the elastic firmly both the behind the presser foot and stretch the elastic notthat so enough wide be should h stitc fabric The zig-zag be the elastic can glide within it and the gathers will length h d. Stitc finishe is work evenly spaced when the 2.5 and stitch width 2 are usually sufficient. g In a similar way. double overlock can be used as casin for 1/8 flat elastic.
____ ____ _ __ __ __ __ Bound edges 1,t. .. _. r. as binding. e ready-made bi us to is d ho et m t edge it should The simples wn on to a curved fabric se be to is g in nd If the bi ge of the ld it over the ed er part he pre-shaped. Fo allowing the low the on be ll wi (which fabric) e th of reverse side . Sew er id w tly gh to be sli or. am using a straight se g-zag. zi g in us even easier. d stitch stitch length I an . st) width 1—1.5 (te h may tc sti e A decorativ .
lded bias Another method is to use ready-made, unfo double them Fold c. fabri the tape or to cut strips from right the st again strip the e Plac . press lengthwise and on Sew ther. toge s side of the garment with the cut edge the . Fold ance allow seam the tape. leaving about 1/8” t 1/8” visible strip over to the reverse side. leaving abou of the side on the right side. Stitch from the right hing so that material exactly along the last line of stitc side.
ethod m r a l u g e R : pers p i z n i g n i w e S d edge of the left-han Zipper under g te the the openin er closed. Bas using Keep the zipp ne hi ther by mac thread opening toge d loose top es long stitch an proximately 3/4” ap tension. Leave Put on the zipper p. to e th at en op atitis l 12 989)soth presserfoot4 needle. e to the left of th am allowance 1/8” se ar re e th d it to Fol seam and sew from the bastededge of the zipper the right-hand versed and sewing re with the work upwards.
Zipper under the center of the opening. Baste the opening together by machine with long stitches and loose top tension. Leave about 3/4” open at the top of the opening. Press the seam open and baste the zipper under the seam by hand. Change to the zipper presser foot (41 12 989) putting it to the left of the needle. Sew the left-hand edge from the bottom upwards. leaving the zipper closed. Before the seam is finished stop with the needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot.
oa h t e m w e s e Tap : s r e p p i z n i Sewing stens at fa arent tape th fabric. Use a transp e th to ng fast without sticki e tape-sew method th s. You can use types of fabric l al t os m al for h it w n e cautio However, us ed material. Test pp na or delicate fabric scrap of the a on pe ta the first. ge of e left-hand ed th r de un r pe Zip the opcnmg er by ening togeth Baste the op long stitches and g machine usin Leave at ad tension. re th ress loose top . allowance P least 3/4” seam.
Turn the garment wrong side out. Unfold the pressed seam allowance. Begin to sew from the bottom upwards hut do not sew through the tape. Sew on the zipper with a row of stitching in the fold. Remove the tape. Now tape the opening together from the Wright” side so that the edges of the opening overlap slightly (at least 1/8”). Turn the presser foot so that it is to the right of the needle. Turn the garment wrong side out.
center of the Zipper under the opening er by the opening togeth Baste stitches and machine using long sion. Ensure ten loose top thread 3/4” seam st lea at is that there seam open. allowance. Press the opening the Topstitch around the basted m fro ” 1/4 ut keeping abo ht” rig seam. sewing from the m sea the h oug side and also thr ting. bas the ve mo Re . allowance presser foot Change to the zipper presser (4> >2 989>. Attach the dle. foot to the left of the nee the to e tap of ce Attach a pie tape.
Attach the zipper to one edge of the opening with the tape. More than half of the zipper will be co’ered b the edge of the opening. Turn the garment wrong side out and fold back the fabric. Sew from the bottom upwards as close to the stitching on the seam allowance as possible. Stop the machine just before the seam is completed and draw down the slide. Finish sewing and fasten the threads. Remove the tape. Turn the presser foOt and repeat in the same manner for the other edge of the opening.
Hemming hIS ... e acquired iesaving after you hav Blind stitching is tin ric, the fab the thicker and softer some practice. The ng. less visible the stitchi types of blind stitching for ch two you es giv Viking stit above is the regular blind hemming. Illustrated . 228 14 e foot 41 for normal fabrics. Us — < I for ch. It should be used This is the elastic blind stit e fabrics. On some stretch abl foot knitted and other stretch ease pressure (test). Use rel to ble fabric, it is advisa 41 4228.
I Hemmers You will find a hemmer useful when sewing long hems in fabrics which are not excessively thick. The following hemmers are available: 2 mm (5/64”). 41 II 384:5mm (3/16”), 41 11 385; 3mm (1/8”) shell stitch. 4111 386: 2 mm (5/64”) rolled hem, 4111 387. I The edge to be hemmed should be trimmed and straight. Fold over the edge twice for the 3/16” hemmer. First fold over a little less than 3/16”. and then again to bring it up to approximately 3/16”.
th Sewing terry clo fabric in which loosely woven Terry cloth is rather e frequently thick and where hems ar for getting the seams easily break ns tio es a few sugg and clumsy. Here are ing in terry cloth. sew best results when oceed as follows. When overcasting pr er leaving 5/8” to 3/4” seam geth do not fray. Sew the garment to seams so that they the edges the im Tr . allowance sew d allowances an Fold back the seam ent with three-step zig-zag.
Another method is to sew on a bias strip. “right” sides together. Turn against the wrong side and sew down ith three-step zig-zag. Buttonholes in terry cloth should be reinforced with gimp thread to prevent them from stretching. The thread is drawn together and the ends fastened on the wrong side. The thread loops should lie against the outer edge of the buttonhole as an extra reinforcement against wear by the button. Stretch terry is terry cloth which is knitted instead of oven.
rics b a f h tc e tr s d n a s Sewing knit tured in many knits are manufac Double and single tton, wool, silk. qualities, such as co that they different fibres and is em mon to all of th and synthetics. Com require elastic seams. e stretch and therefor , by various woven fabrics which may stretch Stretch fabrics are ey Th . en made elastic processes, have be wise or both. In principle they can th id w s.
5 b01 When sewing stretchable fabric it is important that all the seams are elastic. Hems should therefore be sewn using elastic blindstitch. Sew darts with elastic straight stitching. Cr -1 [1k} ;° I Use overlock or double overlock stitching to sew on collars, cuffs, stripes, pockets. linings and so on. The overlock stitch can be used these purpose in all materials. A gimp thread should always be used when making buttonholes to ensure that they keep their shape after having been used for some time.
its Sewing sweateinrbulkyknknitted le to sew even It is perfectly possib nit and machine-knit, using the material, both hand-ks. Double overlock and overlock modern elastic seam ble for these materials. Use fine ita stitch are the most su esser foot pressure slightly. Use pr the e as le transparent thread. Re (41 13 901; or the esser foot ot fo r se es pr r lle ro e pr th 2) as an ordinary presser foot (41 14 51 the stitches.
Sewing silk and silk-like synthetic tabrics In silk and silk-like synthetic fabrics, use a fine needle and fine thread in order to avoid puckered seams. The thread tension should be somewhat looser than normal. Ordinary straight seams should be sewn with a stitch length of 2—3. Use overcast stitch or three-step zig-zag for the overcasting. Hold fabric taut front and back.
drawn down A thin, elastic material tends to be the start of a into the at plate seam le need the on hole needle tly back when you start Grip both threads and pull sligh suitable for the seam. The overcast stitch isovercasting inthese one and ng sewi for both materials, ng.
For swim-suit and girdle material (Ivcra) a fine needle should he used which has a slightly rounded point Vikings standard needle). With certain materials of this type a needle with an even more rounded point may he necessary, known as a ball point needle. Use fine thread. In most cases a somewhat increased pressure on the presser foot is required. Stitches suitable for these fabrics are elastic straight stitch, three-step zig-zag overlock stitch. overcast stitch.
ieaIiii n io at it im d an er h at le g in Sew and for imitation leather In general the same rules apply her. fabric backed plastics as for leated by using an Thin qualities can be strengthen on and will give the interfacing which can be ironedwell as counteracting material a certain firmness, as skip stitches. dles can be used for most Ordinary sewing machine nee es of imitation leather. typ types of leather and for all necessary to use a be may it For thicker qualities cutting point.
A stronger seam can be obtained by placing the edges overlapping 1/2—3/4” and stitching along both edges from the right side, for example using Point de Paris hernstitch. Edging around collars, pockets and so on. is decorative with ordinary straight stitching (long stitches). Ric Rac or Point de Paris hemstitch as in the picture below. Use Point de Paris hemstitch to make attractive buttonholes. Start by cutting a slit of a suitable length for the buttonhole.
Decorative stitches Thread roidery thread whtch is fine Use special machine emb inent embroidery is desired. and shiny. If a more prom through the thread guides ded two threads may he threa ther. Some patterns and the eye of the needle toge ple E blue. may hich are not so closely set. for exam d. threa er also he seon usin thick to be threaded If the thread you want to use is too thick nd onto the wou be it can le.
Borders Borders may be composed of only one decorative stitch pattern or of several different seams running parallel. If the border is to be symmetrical, always start with the middle row. The next rows of stitching are then sewn on each side of the center row. continuing outwards row by rov Remember that if the stitch itself is asymmetrical then you must turn the work when sewing the other side. Always use the edge guide to obtain straight rows. . Splicing If the thread should break.
Appliqués m figures before sewing the You can either cut out the it onto the garment around sew on. or draw the figure. , cutting close to the trim n the and rs tou the con stitching. e or pins. Secure the pieces with tap g chine, using a long zig-za ng Tack the figures on by ma usi e tim ond the edges a sec stitch. Then stitch around stitch length should be e Th ch. stit g For a short zig-za thickness of the fabric.
Raised seams (pintucks) Raised seams are sewn using the twin needle and the raised seam presser foot (41 II 389). Use as fine a thread as possible. The thread tension can be somewhat tighter than normal for both upper and lower threads. The tighter the tension, the more pronounced will be the raised effect. A gimp thread for example a fine cotton thread or even a thin cotton twine for coarser fabrics will make the seam more prominent and durable. When sewing several rows of raised seams.
Lace ing on lace. depending There are various ways of sew and partly on the type lace the partly on the position of sewn. of fabric onto which it is being n. the lace may be sew n bee ady alre has If the hem and sewn on using fold the placed edge to edge along ). three-step zig-zag or bridging stitch (as in the picture ow the needle to pass All one of the decorative stitches. .
If the lace is to be inserted, proceed as follows. Place the lace in position on the fabric. Baste it on both sides with long zig-zag stitches. Cut open the fabric on the reverse side, in the center between the two rows of stitching. Fold the edge of the material back against the reverse side and sew once again from the ‘right” side of the fabric with a shorter length zig-zag. c Trim the fabric edges on the reverse side close to the seams.
Monograms use the appliqué A simple way of monogramming is to them on in the sew and technique. Cut out the letters ter “Appliqués”. same manner as described in the chap tape. Form Monograms may also be made with cloth it with pins or h attac and r lette ofa the tape in the shape stitch ag. zig-z on ine mach the Set tape. transparent and gear lo ge Enga length I .5 and stitch width 1.5. s. sew around the edge around the edge if a prominent contour is desired. sew th 0.3. stitch leng h stitc ag.
i-ree-nana monograms ana emuroiaery Free-hand embroidery and monograms are not easy. but with practice you will improve. If you find drawing and painting easy, you will also find free-hand embroidery easier you have to have a steady hand. — Practice the technique by sewing circles and figures entirely by free-hand. When you have gained a little experience you can draw designs or monograms and sew as described below. Stretch the fabric in a hoop or back it with an interfacing. Use embroidery cotton No.
IVienaing aiiu UCIIIIiii three-step A patch is sewn on around all edges with a be turned to need not do patch the of s edge zig-zag. The ing t. under if the stitch length setting is quite shor Sew it. n gthe stren will s time ral round the patch seve With three-step zig-zag be Three-step zig-zag is a valuable stitch which can of rity majo the ing darn and ding men for ed utiliz is the materials. This method is called Quick-mend and ary ordin The ing. of darn od meth st quickest and easie or ing darn .
table. Use fine darning thread and gauze as a rein forcement for larger holes. Set the machine at straight stitch and decrease thread tension somewhat. Lower the feed dog. Set the presser foot pressure on the darning symbol. Place the hoop under the darning foot. Lower the presser foot and bring up the lower thread. Begin by sewing back and forth over the hole with long stitches. Since the feed dog is disengaged. you must guide the hoop back and forth yourself and thus determine the stitch length.
Darning socks Lower the Set the machine at zig-zag. stitch width 3. the on ure press foot er feed dog and set the press darning symbol. d the Change to the darning foot (41 12 897). threa draw and n cotto ry roide machine with darning or emb foot. er press the of hole le need the gh the cotton throu under hole the place and arm free the over sock Pull the bring up the darning foot. Lower the presser foot and 4 yarn in the the lower thread.
Alphabetical index Appliqués on leather 37 Appliqué work 40 Assembling 6—9 Basting 5 Blindstitch 26 Borders 39 Bound edges 18—19 Bridging stitch 35. 42 Buckles 15 Buttonholes 12—13 Buttonholes in double-knit 31 Buttonholes in leather 37 Buttonholes in terry cloth 29 Buttons 15 Darning 46-48 Designs 39 Double action stitch 9. 30 Double-knit 30—31 Double overcast seams 8 Double overlock stitch. 6. 9, 30—32 Edge guide 7. 38 Edging 38 Elastic blindstitch 26. 31 Elastic cord 17 Elastic knit stitch 8.
