Assembly Instruction

Install base and high cabinets
Hang this poster on the wall
so you’ll have your hands free!
4
9. Drill through the cabinet walls
For all doors except ULRIKSDAL use a
3/16” drill bit to drill through the fourth
holes from the top and bottom edges.
For ULRIKSDAL door, drill through
the second holes from the top/bottom.
When installing a drawer cabinet, drill
through the fifth hole from the top.
8. Install the next base cabinet
Mark, drill, and insert the screws for the
next cabinet. Lift the cabinet into place,
carefully aligning it with the previous
cabinet. Use a G-clamp to fasten the
cabinets together temporarily.
7. Secure the cabinet to the wall
Tighten the screws, but not completely.
Be sure the cabinet is level, front-to-
back and side-to-side. Hint: If you plan
to install a lazy susan – do it now. It’s
much easier before the countertops are
in place.
6. Install the corner cabinet
Lift the corner cabinet back into place
and adjust the height of the legs so that
it stands level. Use a spirit level to be
sure.
5. Use the right screws and fittings
Drill holes at the spots you’ve marked.
Be sure to use drill bits, screws and fit-
tings that are appropriate for your wall
material. If you have a plaster wall and
there’s no wall stud where you’ve drilled,
insert a mooring screw before the screw
and tighten halfway.
Now it’s time for the base and high cabinets. Before
you begin, locate all plumbing, power sources and
other utilities. Mark around these and using a key-
hole saw, cut the appropriate openings before you
install the cabinets.
In the following steps, you’ll install the legs at the
front of the cabinets and secure a cabinet wall strip
to the wall. The wall strip is made of particleboard
and comes packed together with the toekicks. If you
prefer, instead of the wall strip for support, you can
put legs on the back of the cabinets.
10. Fasten cabinets together
Place the connection screws enclosed
with the cabinet frames into the pre-
drilled holes and tighten. Remove the
G-clamp. Continue in this fashion with
the remaining cabinets.
11. Install the high cabinet
The high cabinet should be installed the
same way you installed the base cabi-
nets. If you’re using cover panels on the
sides , follow the enclosed assem-bly in-
struction to mount them before install-
ing the cabinet.
12. Tighten all the screws
When all base cabinets have been
mounted and aligned, tighten all screws
into the wall. Now the high cabinet is in
place, make the final adjustments to the
wall cabinets and tighten all the screws.
13. Measure filler pieces
Check the wall with your level to see if
it is even and flat. If the wall is uneven,
skip to picture 16. If the wall is even,
measure the distance from the wall to
the cabinet and mark this distance at
the top and bottom of the filler piece.
14. Cut filler pieces
With a handsaw: draw a line connect-
ing the top and bottom marks on the
front side of the filler, and cut it with the
face side up. With a keyhole-saw: mark
both sides of the filler. Put masking tape
over the line on the front side to ensure
an even edge, without chipping. Cut it
with the back side up.
© Inter IKEA Systems B.V. 2005.
Design and Quality
IKEA of Sweden
Good to know: Legs can be shared by
two cabinets. See the assembly instruc-
tions. Place the corner cabinet against
the wall so that its back edge is resting
on the wall strip. Through the holes at
the top back corners of the cabinet, mark
where to drill for the fixing screw. Set
the cabinet aside.
Good to know: If there’s no corner
cabinet, install the cabinet that will fit
against the back and side walls. Make
sure there’s enough room between the
cabinet and the side wall for the filler
piece.
3. Secure the wall strip
Align the top edge of the wall strip with
the level line you marked at 4-5/6" in
point 1, Step 4 . Secure it to the wall
studs. Should the end of the wall strip
fall between studs, secure it to the wall
with a mooring screw or expansion bolt.
4. Start with the corner cabinet
Attach legs to the front edges of the
cabinets according to the assembly in-
structions. If you are not using the wall
strip as support, attach back legs as well.
Always use a back leg at the end of the
run – it makes attaching the side toekick
easier. For more, see Good to know.
2. Cut base cabinet wall strips
Measure the length of the base and high
cabinets to be installed. Do not include
the wall space behind appliances. Cut
the wall strips into corresponding
lengths. Cut the strip 1–1/2” shorter
where a side toekick is planned.
15. Install filler pieces
Put the filler piece in place with the cut
edge against the wall. Attach by drill-
ing a screw through the predrilled holes
from the inside of the cabinet. To be sure
the filler piece stays in place, first fasten
a strip to the wall. Install other filler
pieces in the same way. When all filler
pieces are in place, go to 17.
17. The finishing touch
To produce an airtight seal between the
wall and the cabinet, you’ll need to caulk
around the filler pieces. Choose a well-
made latex/silicon brand (it doesn’t need
to be waterproof.) Tape alongside the
area to be caulked. Apply a bead of caulk
into the crevice. Dab your finger into
a 3-in-1 oil to prevent the caulk from
sticking, then run your finger along the
caulk, forcing it into the crevice. Re-
move the tape for an airtight seal and a
straight edge.
You’ve completed Step 4!
And the cabinet frames are in place.
16. Uneven walls
If the wall is not level and flat, the filler
must be cut to conform to the wall’s
shape. To do this, you’ll need to make
a template for tracing the wall’s shape
onto the filler. A piece of thin plywood
or heavy cardboard makes a suitable
template. You’ll also need a measur-
ing tape, pencil and compass. Cut the
template material so that it’s the same
height as the cabinet. Hold it in place
where the filler will be installed. Open
the compass a couple of inches and place
the point against the wall. Holding the
compass horizontal and level, follow the
line of the wall so that the pencil traces
a clear line on the template. To cut the
template to the correct width, measure
the distance from the farthest point on
the wall to the cabinet. Find the same
point on the template and mark it. Draw
a straight line from this point to the top
and bottom of the template to form the
flat edge that will fit against the cabinet.
Cut the template and check that it fits,
then trace the shape onto the filler and
follow the cutting directions in
picture 14.
1. Marking the level lines
Using the high point of the floor that you
marked earlier, measure up 4-5/16”. Use
a 4 foot level to draw a line on the wall
at this height. Now measure 34-1/2”
from the same point on the floor and
draw another level line. This will help
you level the top of the base cabinets.
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