I General User Manual English Derby Cycle Werke GmbH 2011
2 Preface Your bike has been delivered to you ully assembled. If parts of your bike have not been installed, please consult your specialist cycle shop. The purpose of this User Manual is to help you use your bike safely in the manner for which is is intended, and enjoy all its beneits for many years to come. We assume that you have general knowledge on the handling of bikes.
3 Content 9.2.4 Adjusting the saddle angle 15 1 The bike and its components 2 2 Preface 3 9.2.4.1 3 Content 4 9.2.4.2 With a seatpost saddle clamp 15 4 Safety information 7 9.2.4.3 With a suspension seatpost 16 Adjusting the handlebar position 16 4.1 Basic safety information 7 4.2 For your own safety 7 4.3 Information for parents and legal guardians 7 4.4 Safety in road traic 7 4.5 Bike safety 8 5 Legal provisions 5.
18 Repairing a puncture 18.1 Opening the brake 24 20 Bike chain 40 24 20.1 Maintenance of bike chains 40 18.1.1 Opening the cantilever or V-brake 24 21 Brake, brake levers and brake systems 41 18.1.2 Removing the hydraulic rim brake 24 18.1.3 Opening the side-pull calliper brake 25 18.1.4 Releasing the hub gears, roller, drum or back-pedal brakes 18.2 Removing the wheel 25 25 21.1 Important information and precautionary measures 41 21.2 Brake lever 42 21.2.1 Standard brake lever 21.
23 Add-on components 50 27.5 Brake pads 58 50 27.6 Brake discs 58 23.1.1 Front pannier rack 50 27.7 Bike chains or toothed belts 58 23.1.2 Rear pannier rack 50 23.2 Wheel guards / mudguards 51 27.8 Chainrings, sprocket wheels and jockey wheels 58 27.9 Lamps of lighting set 58 51 27.10 Handlebar tapes and handle grips 59 52 27.11 Hydraulic oils and lubricants 59 24.1 Child seat 52 27.12 Gear-shit and brake cables 59 24.2 Bike stand 53 27.13 Paint inishes 59 24.
4 Safety information 4.1 4.3 Basic safety information Please read all the warnings and information in this User Manual careully before using the bike. Keep this User Manual near your bike for ready reference. Make sure that your child has been taught, and also understands, how to handle the bike safely and responsibly in the environment in which it is going to be used. If you hand this bike over to someone else, don't forget to give them the User Manual as well. 4.
Be ready to brake, especially if you are not sure what lies ahead or are riding downhill. 4.5 Bike safety Only bikes that have been approved for use in public places, as per the applicable regulations (e.g. StVZO in Germany), may be used. Observe the maximum permitted gross weight of the various bike types, as this could otherwise lead to breakage or failure of safety-relevant components. The brake system is also only designed for the maximum permitted gross weight of the bike.
7 Before the irst ride Make sure that your bike is ready for use and is set up for your body size. Never inlate the tyres to less than the minimum or more than the maximum speciied tyre pressure. As a rule of thumb, e.g. when on the road, you can check the tyre pressure as follows: If you press your thumbs into the inlated tyre, there should not be much give in the tyre even if you press hard. Check the tyres and rims for damage, foreign bodies, e. g. glass ragments or sharp stones and deformation.
9.2 Make sure you it or screw in the pedals straight, as otherwise you could damage the thread in the crank arm beyond repair. Adjusting the seat position 9.2.1 Adjusting the bike saddle The seat position is decisive for your well-being and cycling performance. 1 1 2 3 2 3 Do not remove or change the seatpost or saddle clamp. If you change or modiy components, this renders the warranty invalid.
9.2.4.1 With a two-bolt seatpost The minimum insertion depth is marked on the seatpost. If this is not the case, the minimum insertion depth must be 7.5 cm. In rames with long seat tubes that project beyond the top tube, the minimum insertion depth is 10 cm. Some seatposts have two screws for adjusting the saddle angle, one in ront of and one behind the seat tube. If you want to tilt the saddle forwards, loosen the rear screw with an Allen key and tighten the ront screw by the same number of revolutions.
9.2.4.3 With a suspension seatpost Suspension seatposts reduce vibrations caused by uneven roads thereby reducing stress on the spinal column. If you need to adjust the suspension elements in the seatpost, consult your specialist cycle shop. Bend your upper body towards the handlebar until you have found a position that is comfortable for your back. Stretch out your arms towards the handlebar. Note the approximate position of your hands and set the handlebar at this height. 9.3.
Never tighten the handlebar stem if the maximum mark or stop mark is above the top of the shat. If you cannot ind a mark, insert the handlebar stem into the head tube to a depth of at least 6.5 cm. If you do not do this, the handlebar stem could come loose or break. 9.3.4 Adjusting the handlebar position by turning the handlebar Loosen the hexagon socket screws on the ront of the stem. Turn the handlebar until you ind the position that is comfortable for you.
9.3.5 Adjusting the handlebar height with an adjustable handlebar stem With some types of handlebar stems, you can vary the handlebar tilt. The stem angle can be adjusted via the clamping screws which are on the side of the articulation or the top/bottom of the stem. Models equipped with additional stop notches or adjusting screws are available. 10 Frame The form of the rame depends on the bike type and unction.
11 Headset 12 Fork The ront wheel is held in place by the bike fork. The bike fork consists of two fork blades, the fork crown and steering tube. Headset The headset is the bearing for the bike fork in the rame. If the headset has been properly adjusted, it will turn easily. In doing so, no play should be evident. The headset is subject to a large amount of stress due to impacts with the road surface. This can cause it to come loose or afect its setting.
13 Suspension rame and suspension elements response, but does not strike through if you ride over an obstruction. It must give slightly when you sit on your bike. 13.1 13.2 Care and maintenance Frame with rear suspension If you wish to ride oroad in a particularly sporty manner or with a high degree of comfort, you may have opted for a ull-suspension model. In this case, the rear triangle of the main rame is not rigid; instead it can move and is spring mounted and damped by a shock absorber.
14 Bottom bracket and cranks Chainrings are wear parts. Their service life depends on various factors, e.g. • maintenance and care, • type of use and • distance travelled. 15 Checking the bottom bracket 16 Wheels 16.1 Checking the wheels The wheels connect the bike with the surface you are riding on. The wheels are subject to a particularly high level of stress due to unevenness of the riding surface and the weight of the rider. The wheels are careully checked and trued prior to delivery.
triangle backwards and forwards perpendicular to the direction of travel. If you notice that there is play between the bearings or if you encounter resistance when turning the wheel, have the hub bearing adjusted by a specialist cycle shop. 17 Tyres and inner tubes 17.1 Tyres A large number of diferent tyre types exist. The bike's oroad capability and rolling resistance depend on tread proile. 16.3 Checking the rims If you are using a rim brake, the rim is subject to a higher degree of wear.
The tyre pressure is requently stated in PSI. Chapter 30 "Technical data" contains a table which you can use to convert tyre pressures rom PSI into bar. 17.2 Only use tubed tyres on the designated rims. These do not have turned-up edges (rim langes) and instead have a smooth inwards-curving surface onto which the tubed tyre is glued. Tubeless tyres Tubeless tyres are also used nowadays, especially with modern mountain bikes, but also with road bikes to a lesser extent.
To inlate an inner tube with a Sclaverand or road valve, proceed as follows: 18 Repairing a puncture To repair a puncture, you will need the following equipment: • Plastic tyre lever • Patches • Rubber solution • Sandpaper • Spare inner tube, if required Unscrew the valve cap anticlockwise with your ingers. Unscrew the knurled nut anticlockwise. Push the knurled nut with your inger briely into the valve until air escapes. Inlate the inner tube using a suitable tyre pump.
18.1.3 Opening the side-pull calliper brake Open the quick-release lever on the brake arm or brake lever. If no quick-release brake mechanisms are itted, delate the tyre. The wheel can now be pulled out between the brake pads. 18.1.4 Releasing the hub gears, roller, drum or back-pedal brakes Undo the cable clamping screw or quick-release device on the brake arm. With back-pedal brakes, the screw connection of the brake arm on the chain stay must be released. 18.2.
2. Pull the outer casing out rom the outer casing holder of the cassette joint, and then remove the inner cable rom the slit in the bracket. 5. Undo the wheel nuts and put them to one side. Remove the lock washers rom the wheel axle. 6. Pull the rear wheel out of the dropout slits. Bracket Outer casing holder 18.3 Removing the tyre and inner tube CJ -8S JA 20 PA Unscrew the valve cap, fastening nut and the cap nut (if installed) rom the valve. Remove the valve insert rom Dunlop or Woods valves.
18.5 Fitting the tyre and inner tube Make sure that foreign bodies do not enter the inside of the tyre. Make sure that the inner tube is creaseree and not pinched at all times. When itting the tyre, bear in mind the running direction. If the tyre has a running direction, this will be indicated on the tyre sidewall. Make sure that the rim tape covers the spoke nipples and is undamaged. 18.6 Fitting the wheel Please note that the work steps described here are for a speciic example.
2. Fit the ixing washers onto both sides of the hub axle. Turn the shiting arm until the projections on the ixing washers engage with the slits in the dropouts. In this case the shiting arm can be mounted more or less parallel to the rame fork. Counter the clamp nut with a 10 mm spanner when tightening the clamp screw for assembly of the brake arm clamp.
Installing the shiting cable with hub gears Bring the cable around to the cassette joint pulley, hold so that the inner cable ixing nut is facing to the outside (toward the dropout), and then slide the lats part of the inner cable ixing washer into the gap in the pulley. Attach the inner cable to the pulley as shown in the illustration, pass the inner cable through the slit in the cassette joint bracket, and then insert the end of the outer casing securely into the outer casing holder.
19 Bike gears Check that the inner cable is correctly seated inside the pulley guide. LOCK LOCK Guide OK CJ-8S20 CJ-8S20 JAPAN JAPAN Guide not OK 19.1 Derailleur gears This User Manual describes the handling of typical, commercially available gear-shit components for MTB, ATB, cross and road bikes. Separate instructions are provided for other components on the CD or on the web pages of the relevant manufacturer in the Internet.
19.1.1 Operating the shiting lever The bike chain must not be on the smallest chainring at the ront and the small outer rear sprocket wheel simultaneously. The bike chain must not be on the largest chainring at the ront and large inner sprocket wheel at the rear simultaneously. Otherwise the bike chain could jump of. 19.1.1.1 Shiting lever on road bike Shimano shiting lever Lever b rom large to small chainring Never pedal backwards when changing gears as you could damage the gear-shit mechanism.
Operating the rear derailleur shiting lever Lever a: Shit to a larger sprocket. Lever a engages in positions 1, 2 and 3. Lever a When lever a is pressed, lever b moves with it. However, you should avoid putting any pressure on lever b in doing so. The same applies for lever a when pressing lever b. The gear will not change if both levers are operated at the same time. 3. Click-in position Starting position of lever a 2. Click-in position Lever a: Shit to a larger chainring 1. Click-in position 1.
Operating the ront derailleur lever with trimming (noise prevention), optional Gear shiting operations Lever a: Shit to a larger chainring Lever a Starting position of lever a Trimming (noise prevention) Depending on the position of the chain ater shiting, it may rub against the outer chain guide plate or inner chain guide plate of the ront derailleur and produce noise. In this case, lightly press lever a or lever b to move the ront derailleur until it is no longer in contact with the chain.
CHAIN POSITION TRIMMING INDICATION LEVER OPERATION large chainring FRONT DERAILLEUR MOVEMENT Chain in contact with outer chain guide plate Lever a Trimming Outer chain guide plate before trimming smaller sprockets ater trimming Front derailleur movement Middle chainring Smaller sprockets Small chainring Click-in position Chain (contact) Smaller sprockets Large chainring Chain in contact with inner chain guide plate Lever b Trimming Inner chain guide plate before trimming Larger sprocke
SRAM shiting lever Setting the swivel range The range of the shiting and brake lever pivoting movement can be adjusted individually to suit the size of your hand. 0° X° Click XX° Click Click Click 0 Rear shiting lever: To shit to a tougher (higher) gear, press the small shiting lever gently inwards until you hear or feel a click. To shit to an easier (lower) gear, press the small shiting lever urther inwards until you hear or feel a second click. You can shit down by up to three gears at once.
Gear shit complete stroke Click-in position Trimming operation Click-in position H b l (B) Lever b Lever b Shiting rom a large to a smaller chainring Press lever b once to move the chain rom a large to a smaller chainring. Operating the standard rear derailleur shiting lever Lever a starting position 1 When lever b is operated, there is one click where trimming (the noise prevention mechanism) engages, and a second stronger click when the gear shit stroke is complete.
Rear derailleur The adjustment screw may also be on the shiting lever or on the rame. Have your specialist cycle shop carry out maintenance on the derailleur gears, or replace or adjust them. Adjustment screw Precision adjustment / rear derailleur B Operate the shiting lever to shit the chain rom the smallest sprocket to the second sprocket. Then take up the slack in the shiting cable with the shiting lever and turn the crank.
Cleaning Whenever possible, avoid using cleaning agents on the chain. If you use cleaning agents, such as rust remover, this may wash lubricant out of the chain which could lead to malunctions. The chainrings and sprockets should be cleaned regularly using a neutral cleaning agent. You should clean the derailleur and lubricate the moving parts (mechanism and rollers) at regular intervals. 19.
19.2.2 Adjusting gears with Shimano hub gears Example shown is a 7/8-speed hub. Turn the cable adjustment bolt on the shit lever to align the marking lines. Next, set the Revo-shit lever rom position 4 to position 1 then back to position 4. Check that the yellow marking lines still line up. Select shit lever position 4. Cable adjustment bolt Check whether the yellow marking lines on the bracket and cassette joint pulley line up.
20 Bike chain There are two types of bike chain: • A wide bike chain (½ × 1 / 8") for hub gears and • A narrow bike chain for derailleur gears. These are available in diferent widths, depending on how may sprockets are on the cassette. Only use chains that are approved for precisely the number of sprocket wheels on your bike. Clean and lubricate your bike chain regularly.
21 Brake, brake levers and brake systems This User Manual describes the maintenance and handling of typical, commercially available brake components for MTB, ATB, cross and road bikes. For other components, refer to the separate information or enclosed instructions. If you have questions on installation, adjustment, maintenance and operation, please consult a specialist cycle shop. 21.
21.2 Brake lever 21.3.1 Drum and roller brakes 21.2.1 Standard brake lever The bike is equipped as standard with a suitable brake lever. Check regularly that when you operate the brake lever it does not reach the handlebar and make contact with it. With the brake lever pulled, push the bike forward and check whether the braking performance is suicient. If the bike rolls slightly forwards, you will need to have the brake cable readjusted or the brake pads replaced.
21.3.2 Back-pedal brake Avoid operating the back-pedal brake continuously on long descents as the internal components of the brake system can become extremely hot which reduces braking performance. On long steep descents, always alternate between the rear wheel brake and the second brake (ront wheel brake) to allow the rear wheel brake to cool down. As the brake drum can become extremely hot when braking for prolonged periods, you should not touch it for at least 30 minutes ater riding.
21.4 Rim brakes V-brakes produce an extremely high braking force. You should therefore familiarise yourself with the V-brake and only apply the brake gradually. Practise emergency braking until you are sure you will be able to remain ully in control of your bike if you have to apply the brakes with force. 21.4.2 Adjusting the brake-pad clearance in relation to the rim Turn the cable adjustment bolt to adjust the clearance between the brake pad and the rim.
21.4.3 Wear of brake pad Most brake pads for rim brakes come with grooves or notches. If required, you can readjust the rebound force via the spring adjustment screw so that both brake arms move symmetrically. Once you have done this, check that the brake is working properly (see Chapter 21.4.1 "Readjusting the brake").
If you hear unusual noises when braking, the brake blocks may have reached their wear limit. Allow the brakes to cool down then check the brake block depth. Have the brake blocks replaced if necessary. If the brake disc is worn, cracked or bent it must be replaced. Have this work carried out by a professional bike workshop. If the depth of the brake blocks is less than 0.5 mm, they must be replaced. > 0.5 mm 0.
21.5.2 Vapour bubble formation Vapour bubble formation can occur if the brakes are operated continuously for some time, e. g. during a long steep descent. Instead of applying gentle pressure continuously with the brakes, operate them for shorter periods, with more force if necessary, releasing the brake lever intermittently. Vapour bubbles form if water in the brake luid heats up, evaporates and forms bubbles in the brake system. As these are easily compressed, the brake lever travel distance increases.
22 Lighting system 22.3 Generator / dynamo The dynamo produces the energy required to operate the ront and rear lights. There are diferent types of dynamos. In some EU countries, only lighting systems that are prescribed by national legislation (the Road Traic Licensing Regulations (StVZO) in Germany for example) and have been approved for use may be installed on bikes. If in doubt, ask your specialist cycle shop. 22.3.1 Sidewall dynamo 22.
22.3.2 Hub dynamo 22.4 Failure of the lighting system The hub dynamo is inside the hub of the ront wheel. The hub dynamo is highly eicient, and the wear is extremely low. If the lighting system fails or develops a fault when riding in the dark this could cause a serious accident. Have the fault repaired at a professional bike workshop before you continue your journey. Hub dynamo Extremely powerul (rechargeable) battery-operated bicycle and outdoor lights are available rom some retail outlets.
23 Add-on components 23.1.1 Front pannier rack 23.1 Pannier rack The pannier racks on the bike satisy the standard EN 14873. The load-carrying capacity of the pannier rack falls into one of four possible categories: 5 kg, 10 kg, 18 kg and 25 kg. The information on load-carrying capacity is embossed on the pannier rack. The maximum load it can handle may be higher, depending on its design. This is stated separately. If you carry luggage, this changes the ride characteristics of your bike.
If you notice that a wheel guard is damaged, always replace it before using the bike again. If you carry pannier bags or other loads on the pannier racks, make sure they are securely attached. Make sure that nothing can become caught in the spokes and the turning wheels. 23.2.1 Re-engaging the safety-release mechanism Only it child seats to rear pannier racks if suitable ixtures are provided. In doing so, be careul not to exceed the permissible weight category.
24 Accessories and equipment Always install enclosed accessories according to the instructions. Use the correct tightening torques for screw connections (see Chapter 30 "Technical data"). Only use accessory parts that meet the requirements of the national road traic licensing regulations (these are the Road Traic Licensing Regulations (StVZO) in Germany for example). Non-approved accessory parts are not safe for use in traic and can cause accidents.
24.2 Bike stand Never leave your child sitting unattended in the child seat when you park your bike. The bike could fall over and severely injure the child. Never ride with the stand folded out. 24.3 Bike trailer 24.4 Bike basket The ixing for the basket must not damage the handlebar or handlebar stem. Attach the basket so as not to cover the ront light and ront relector. In doing so, be careul not to bend the brake and shiting cables. Do not carry more than ive kilogrammes of luggage in the basket.
25 Bike carriers for mounting on roof and rear of car Only use roof and rear-mounted bike carriers that meet the requirements of the road traic licensing regulations in your country (the Road Traic Licensing Regulations (StVZO) in Germany for example). Non-approved roof and rear-mounted bike carriers are not safe for use in traic and can cause accidents. Adjust your driving to take the load on your car roof into account. Bear in mind that your car's overall height has changed.
ranty void. This kind of adapter should only be itted by a specialist cycle shop. • Once the adapter has been itted in the carbon rame it cannot be removed. Inspect the following components and areas regularly (at least every 100 km) for cracks, ractures or changes in surface appearance. Furthermore, if you come of the bike or if it falls over, these components must always subsequently be inspected: 26.4 Carbon rame 26.
26.7 Carbon wheels Surface wear, change of surface, e. g. due to heat produced when braking, abrasion of brake blocks, wheel hub or their lanks ment of pannier racks, trailers and other ixtures are not permitted due to the risk of breakage. 26.10 Splinters If you are using a bike with carbon rims, bear in mind that the braking behaviour of this material is much poorer than aluminium rims. Note that only approved brake blocks may be used. 26.
27 Care and maintenance of the bike Have defective parts replaced before you ride the bike again. 27.1 Touch up damaged paintwork. Care Do not allow care products or oils to come into contact with brake pads, brake discs and the rim's brake contact surfaces. This could reduce the efectiveness of the brake.
27.3 Tyres Due to their unction, bike tyres are subject to wear. This depends on how the bike is used and the rider can inluence this signiicantly. Do not brake so sharply that the wheels lock. Check the tyre pressure regularly. The maximum permissible tyre pressure, and normally also the minimum permissible pressure, can be found on the tyre wall. If necessary, inlate the tyre up to the speciied value. This reduces wear.
27.10 Handlebar tapes and handle grips Handlebar tapes and handle grips are subject to unctionrelated wear and therefore may need to be replaced. Check regularly that the handles are securely seated. 27.11 Hydraulic oils and lubricants The efectiveness of hydraulic oils and lubricants decreases over time. If lubricants are not replaced, this increases the wear of the relevant components and bearings. Clean and relubricate all relevant components and bearings regularly.
28 Regular inspections Have the following components readjusted: As the spokes settle, the length of the brake and shiting cables increases and the bearings will run in during the irst kilometres on the bike, you will have to have an initial inspection carried out by your specialist cycle shop ater the irst 200 kilometres, or ater four to six weeks. This is also important for the acceptance of claims made under the terms of the warranty. • headset, • gearshit, • brakes, • suspension elements.
ater 3000 kilometres If necessary, the 29 Link list • headset, You can obtain important information on your bike and its components via these links. The relevant user manual is normally provided on the manufacturer's web pages, in addition to important tips for use and making settings. • pedals, www.rohlof.de • shiting cables * and www.speedliter.com • brake cables www.brooksengland.com should be www.paul-lange.de / produkte / shimano • dismantled, www.ritcheylogic.
30 Technical data 30.1 Maximum permitted gross weight of bike The maximum permitted gross weight of the bike comprises the weight of the bike, the weight of the rider and the weight of the luggage. It also includes the laden weight of a trailer. BIKE TYPE MAXIMUM PERMITTED GROSS WEIGHT 20" trailer 50 kg 20" child's bike: 60 kg 24" child's bike: 80 kg Urban bike, city / trekking 130 kg max. 115 kg Urban bike, semi XXL 150 kg max. 135 kg Urban bike, XXL 170 kg max. 155 kg E-Bike 130 kg max.
30.2 Maximum permitted loading of pannier rack Note that the data on your pannier rack or in the manufacturer's user manual may be diferent. Maximum weight loading of ront pannier rack: • Loading area above wheel: 10 kg • Low loading area: 18 kg Observe the minimum screw-in depth. For hard aluminium alloys this is at least 1.4 times the screw diameter (e.g. nominal diameter M 5 × 1.4 = 7 mm). Whenever possible, you should tighten all safety-relevant screw connections using a torque wrench.
General Carbon SCREW CONNECTION THREAD TIGHTENING TORQUE (NM) Crank arm, steel M8x1 30 Crank arm, alu M8x1 30 Pedal 9 / 16" 30 Axle nuts, ront gen. 25 Axle nuts, rear gen.
30.5 Lighting set 30.3.1 General tightening torques for screw connections The screw grade, e.g. 8.8, is embossed in the screw head. Unless otherwise speciied by the manufacturer, the following tightening torques (average values) apply depending on the screw grade: GRADE THREAD V2A / V4A 8.8 Depending on which type of lighting set is itted on your bike you may require diferent spare lamps. The following table shows which bulbs you require. TYPE OF LIGHTING SET USED POWER SUPPLY Front light 6V 2.
31 Warranty conditions Read Chapter 27 "Care and maintenance of the bike" careully. Comply with the inspection and maintenance intervals speciied in Chapter 28 "Regular inspections" . Compliance with the service intervals is a prerequisite for the assertion of warranty claims. The statutory warranty period is two years. This starts when the bike is handed over by the specialist cycle shop who is also your contact partner for warranty claims.
I General User Manual 67
We hope you thoroughly enjoy using your new bike! Copyright © 2011 Derby Cycle Werke GmbH Reproduction in whole or in part is not permitted without the consent of Derby Cycle Werke GmbH. Subject to misprints, errors and technical modiications.
