Kenmope INSTRUCTIONS MODEL 1230/1240/1250 - ZIG o ZAG SEWING MACHINE t ! I #52917
TABLE OF CONTENTS Section ] Knowing Your Sewing Machine Identifying Parts ........................................... 2, 3 Installing and Connecting Machine ..................... 4 Bobbin .................................................... 5, 6, 7 Threading-Top Thread ............. ........................ 8 Using the Controls Top Tension Control ................................. 9, 10 Bobbin Tension Adjusting .............................. 11 Checking Tensions .......................................
Knowing Your Machine 1. Hand Hole Cover 2. Seam Guide 3. Presser Foot 13, 4. 5. Needle Clamp Screw Presser Foot Screw 14. Special Stitch Variegator (Models 1240, 1250 only) 6. Thread 15. 7. Face Cover Thread Stitch Length and Reverse Stitch Control 8. Top Thread Tension 16. Light and Power 17. 18. Feed Dog Control Nomenclature Plate 9. Plate ewing Lines Guide Face Cover Plate 10. Take-up 11. Upper 12.
!!i_ii_iiiiiiii ii!!iii_ii!ii!iii,liiiiiiiiiiii!i_i 19. Clutch Knob 20. Hand Wheel 21, Bobbin Winder 22. Thread Spool 23. Bobbin Winder Pins Tension Disc 24. 25. Pressure Regulator Presser Foot Lever 26. Thread 27.
INSTALLING MACHINE O O O . Loosen the two hinge screws under holes in the rear edge of the machine bed. 2. Raise hinge pins in the cabinet cutout. 3. Slip machine head onto the pins and tighten hinge screws securely. 4. Push the speed control plug onto three-prong connector under the bed plate. Lower machine head to front cabinet flap. 5. Plug the speed control cord into any 110-120 volt wall outlet. 6. Turn on power power switch. by pushing light and 7.
REMOVING BOBBIN CASE FROM SHUTTLE •/ iilE• • .• •.... •i•-if! ••_• i 1. Turn hand wheel its highest position. cover plate. 2. Pull open latch to raise needle Lift hand of bobbin case. to hole 3. Pull bobbin case straight out of shuttle. To thread the bobbin case, see page 7.
WINDING THE BOBBIN • • k k - Release clutch toward you. by turning 2. Draw thread bobbin winder from spool through tension discs as shown. 3. Pull end of thread bobbin as shown. 4. Place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin. Push bobbin winder latch against bobbin until it clicks. Holding onto end of thread, start machine. When bobbin is slightly filled, snip off end of thread. , clutch through knob hole in 5. Start machine.
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE o . , 3. Insert bobbin making bobbin sure thread as shown. Pull thread shown. into through bobbin is coming slot case its highest position. Holding latch open, position case into shuttle, and release latch. Case should lock into from place when of case as Pull thread under tension spring. 4. Turn hand wheel to raise needle to o latch is released. Hold needle thread loosely hand and rotate hand wheel you one complete thread turn.
THREADING Fig OF TOP THREAD 1 Fig 2 _if,,,,,_ Fig3 y " '" _i_,i ¸ • "i,,,, __ 1. Place thread on spool pin as shown, with the thread coming from the back of the spool (Fig. 1-O). Draw thread through the top thread guide(s)(Fig. 1-_or (_). 2. Holding the spool with the right hand, pull the thread through the tension discs. The spring wire loop should be pulled up until the thread passes beyond the beak of the hook. Fig. 2. 3.
CONTROLS TOP TENSION CONTROL t _,__i_i __,__,_ __i.,i:__ii _i!,._i _i__!i_i_ __._-_!_!iii_, Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates your top thread tension. It consists of discs between which the thread passes. The pressure on these discs is regulated by turning the dial. The higher the number, the tighter the tension. There are many reasons for having to reset your tension. The best tension for one fabric may not be correct for another.
ADJUSTING O Upper TOP thread TENSIONS too tight Decrease 0 Upper thread Tension too loose Increase Tension
ADJUSTING Bobbin BOBBIN tension requires adjusting If the stitch is satisfactory the tension indicated TENSIONS on both less frequently than the upper thread but the seam is puckered, the top and bottom tension. it may be necessary threads. Be sure to balance to loosen them as on page 10. When adjusting the tension on the bobbin case, make slight adjustments with a screwdriver. CorreCt tensions will produce the stitch shown on page 10. DECREASE TENSION Turn Counter Clockwise.
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Imp:ortant ":: ' uTru"e'o _ w :"'rnin u"_tke control, Controlis at reddot: : ..... ::_: .... make sure needle is above fabric and Stitch Width._:_ "::::_: illustrated above is the one used for most of your stitching. At this The setting ...... .... . . • zi za stitch, ......... strai htst=tch, stretch st=tch and make a simple g g ::::, ,,. setting you. may ..... g .... •in sof our other controls, carerul=y ...... , ....... ........ the sett g Y :ous st=tches. . ..... ...... :: . As ..... eac h stitch ....
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OTHER ADJUSTMENTS OF MACHINE IN SEWING In addition to the obvious controls of your machine there and controls to aid you in using your sewing machine. PRESSER Push down FOOT PRESSURE are other small regulators REGULATOR outer ring of presser foot pressure regulator (See above illustration). This will release pressure of presser foot. To increase pressure, push down inner pin until suitable pressure is obtained. For ordinary sewing, the inner pin should be all the way down.
FEED DOG CONTROL The feed dog control is located on the right front of the machine bedplate. There are a few times when you want to control the feeding of the fabric yourself. When the control is set to the left, the feed dogs drop and do not move the fabric. For most of your sewing the feed dog control is turned to "U". (Feed dog up) Fig. 1 SEWING LIGHT The light and power switch shown at left provides the electric current for the motor as well as the light. In order to operate be on.
SEAM GUIDES Seam guides are printed on either side of the needle plate to aid you in guiding your fabric. THE GUIDE LINE EXTENDING ABOVE THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE NEEDLE PLATE IS THE "ALL IMPORTANT" 5/8" SEAM LINE. _ i ¸ _r , PRESSER FOOT LEVER To aid you in the placement of heavy fabrics under the presser foot, the lever can raise foot beyond the normal "up" position. This is also an aid in changing your presser feet.
ACCESSORIES i; i _¸ _ :_:ii¸_iiiiii;_ili;il ¸ ii J " _-,- . : I I II I NEEDLES Us'e KENMORE needles. The size of the needle should conform with the size of the thread and both should be suitable to the fabric (See next page). Never use a bent needle or one with a blunt po!nt. Fig. 1. shows you the exact length of your needle. Be sure you never use one in your machine that is not this exact length, You will find among "Q NEEDLE",. with special sewing needle knits your accessories a blue shank.
NEEDLE, THREAD _::_- .: i!i iii _HREAD AND ...... ...... :. FABRIC , SIZE:Y:_::, _IIIi!_:_ii:: CHART NEEDLE :::i:i_SIZE : Fine::Me_cerJ_e_:_:co_n :':_:::_:!::_i/-:! :i:{: _//} ;_y_ter :SYnthetic!.:f:::_:::::::::::::::::::::: ..... :_: i ::_:::_ i:: i: I:,,,!,U'I_!:}• •i:,_ i:!;:_V::!I! :_!_:!iii:i_,i::il;:}i: •_:•i}:%i_::,::i::;:i:i: •'•i::!_:i_;:,-_:_:f :: _,• 4',:i!:_ :_•i;i 4 FABRIC : Lightweight: Batiste, Dim Chiffon, Silks, Synthetic J_ Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffetta.
PRESSER Presser foot lever The various presser feet that come with your Kenmore Sewing Machine are designed to help you to do every kind of sewing easily and perfectly. To change 1. Presser foot : screw Presser FEET You have been given of presser A. Zigzag Stitch Foot B. Satin Stitch Foot C. Straight Stitch D. Zipper Foot Foot Raise the needle to its position by turning hand towards you. highest wheel Raise the presser bar to its highest position by lifting the presser foot • lever. 3.
Starting Now that you accessories Kenmore down are provided sewing familiar " with the for the machine, machine. Below controls on you are ready are some good your machine to start and with to sew with habits to follow your the new each time you sit to sew: Check . to Sew the needle-it It should should b_ the correct needle frequently.
GA {MENT CONSTRUCTION STITCHES STRAIGHT STITCHING SETTINGS: (Model 1250 only) °ill - 24"" Special Stitch Dial- _'olll (Model 1250 only, Special Stitch Variegator- Red mark on top (Model 1250) Red dot to the left (Model 1240) Stitch Width Control - Red Dot Stitch Length Control - 8 to 12 Straight Stitch Foot :: :::: :..... i " You will find in garment temporary and permanent. ° Temporary Set your machine just as shown in the .illustration in order to straight stitch.
, Permanent stitching-This is the actual stitching that holds the garment together. Much of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment and therefore must be good looking. The best length stitch to use for medium weight fabrics is 10-12 stitches per inch. This is in the middle range of the Stitch Length Control. •:' •_ _ ,!i •i :i_ •rr •' You must remember to lengthen the stitch for heavier fabrics, multiple layers of fabric and thicker seams.
ZIGZAG STITCHING SETTINGS: (Model 1250 only) 8 Special Stitch Dial ._o _/,l(Model 1250 only) Special Stitch Variegator- Red mark on top (Model 1250) Red dot to the left(Model 1240) Stitch Width Control - 2 to 5 Stitch Length Control-Any setting except White Dot 6- Zigzag Stitch o , ..... 24 !2 F Foot This type of stitching greatly expands the use of your machine. This is the feature that enables you to overcast seams,, applique and monogram.
STRAIGHT STITCHING STRETCH (Models 1_40, 1250) SETTINGS' 0 (Model 1250 only) 2412- 86- • _ i_¸ • i., Special Stitch Dial - _®J,_,l (Model 1250 only) Special Stitch Variegator-Black mark on top (Model 1250) White circle to the 'left (Model 1240) Stitc Width Control - Red Dot Stitch Length Control - All the way down Straight Stitch Foot Use this special stretch stitch with knitted fabrics and othre fabrics that stretch. Sew as you do a regular straight stitch seam.
SPECIAL FINISHING STITCHES After the basic construction of your garment is finished, there are still many finishing touches to be done. To aid your completion of your garment, the Kenmore has been designed to do the following tasks that formerly had to be done by hand.
SATIN STITCHING SETTINGS: (Model Closely 1250 only) spaced o zigzag stitches used for appliqueing, Whenever Special Stitch Dial- {e ',ll(Model 1250 only) Special Stitch Variegator- Red mark on top (Model 1250) Red dot to the left ( Model 1240) Stitch Width Control - An'y number 2 to 5 Stitch Length Control- Between 24 and white dot Satin Stitch Foot are called monogramming, you are using the top thread slightly. be. this stitch, The wider satin stitches.
APPLIQUEING SETTINGS: Same as with Satin Stitching Select an applique design to be applied to your garment and baste it in place. Satin stitch around the raw edge of the applique completely covering tlie edge. You may want to do this with a contrasting color of thread or same color.
BUTTONHOLING SETTINGS: Special Stitch Dial - {o Iii(Model 1250 only) Special Stitch Variegator- Red mark on top (Model 1250) Red dot to the ..--=left(Model 1240) Width Control - -_.-: Length Control- Between 24 and white dot Satin Stitch Foot Stitch Stitch Y Special St!tCh (Model 1250only} 1 Mark ends Stitch Width Length: :: Control : the buttonhole length at both and also the center line. See Fig. 1 Fig. 1 . Position fabric under needle.
::_ :' ....... .... .... :_::: 4. fabric Raise to 5. Drop feed dogs and lower presser foot. Bartack about three stitches. See Fig. 4. Complete bartacking with needle on the left side of stitching. Point D. See Fig. 4 _ ..... :; Fig_=4 . Raise presser foot and reset stitch width control to original setting. Raise feed dogs and lower presser foot. Sew other side of buttonhole until desired with needle E stitching.
BUTTON SEWING SETTINGS: Special Stitch Dial - _oa, l: (Model 1250 only) Special Stitch Variegator- Red mark on top (Model 1250) Red dot to the left ( Model 1240) Feed Dog - Down Zigzag Stitch Foot r ' r . r _ i_' iii',i:_?_ii •i :i I i'_:_/'_ , . o . Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold the button securely. Turn hand needle point wheel manually until is just above button. Adjust stitch width control so needle will enter left hole of the button.
NIAXi -STITCH STRETCH STITCHING. (Model 1250 only) SETTINGS: " !i Special Stitch Dial - ,,_v_ Special Stitch Variegator- Red mark on top Stitch Width Control - 2 to 5 Stitch Length Control - Any setting except white dot Zigzag Stitch Foot The elastic used in lingerie, swimwear and sportswear may be sewn into place with this stitch. Simply stitch the elastic into place around, the waist, armhole or leg of the garment. The elastic may have to be stretched slightly to fit the area of the garment.
DARNING , • •• • : u - : ::: L_• . SETTINGS: Special Stitch Dial - _olII (Model 1250 only) Special Stitch Variegator- Red mark on top (Model 1250) Red dot to the left (Model 1240) Stitch Width ControlRed Dot Feed Dog - Down No Presser Foot Remove presser foot, stretch fabric between embroidery hoops with hole centered. Draw the bobbin thread up through the fabric by holding the top thread and taking one stitch at the spot where you wish to start darning.
ZIPPER APPLICATION SETTINGS:' Special Stitch Dial - _o'_t_ I, (Model 1250 only) Special Stitch Variegator- Red mark on top (Model 1250) Red dot to the left(Model 1240) Stitch Width Control - Red Dot Stitch Length Control - 10 to 12 Zipper Foot REGULAR / Fig_ 1 ZIPPER The foot is adjustable for use on the right or left side of the needle when sewing the regular type of zipper. Adjust the foot so the needle clears the side notch on the foot. See Fig. 1.
GUIDANCE For Your Selection of the Best Kind of Stitch For Your Stretch Fabrics, STRAIGHT STRETCH (Models 1240, 1250) RICK-RACK STRETCH (Models 1240, 1250) FEATHER STRETCH (Model 1250) ;'VVVV MAXI STITCH STRETCH (Model 1250) USE Use on stretch knit fabrics. 'Use to repair knit ready made garments where seams need give. Use to seam areas of stress in children's and adult sportswear-crotch seams, armholes', etc. Sew center seam of men's neck ties. Sew any seam that is on the bias and must give.
Nylon Tricot Straight stretch or Rick-Rack stretch. (Model 1240, 1250) Feather stretch. (Model 1250) Sharp new needle, Size 9 or 11. Blind hem. (Model Synthetic 1250) Terry Cloth Regular Corduroy Straight or simple zigzag. Straight stretch or Rick-Rack stretch. (Model 1240, 1250) Feather stretch. (Model 1250) Maxi stitch stretch. (Model 1250) Terry Cloth Stretch Straight stretch or Rick-Rack stretch. (Model 1240, 1250) Feather stretch. (Model 1250) Maxi stitch stretch.
Checking Performance Problems WHATTODO i PROBLEM |rregular Stitches Breaking Needle Bunching of Thread i PROBABLE i CAUSE Incorrect size needle. improper threading; i CORRECTION Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric. Rethread machine. Tighten upper thread tension. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Increase pressure on presser foot. Reset presser foot. Rewind bobbin. Replace shuttle, or polish off burrs completely, Light pressure on presser foot.
PROBLEM Skipping: SIitches PROBABLE i: , CAUSE Certain; knits and synthetics; Bent or blunt needle .... Incorrect :setting of needle. Tight upper thread tension: Light pressure on presser foo_. : .... Breaking Upper Thread Starting to stitch too:fast. improper: :threading. Tight upperithread tension. incorrect size needle Sharp eye in needle. Nicks or burrs on shuttle; Nir,,ks or burrs:at hole of needle plate.
Caring for the Machine CLEANING Fig. 1 Cleaning brush. AND OILING the feed dogs with a To insure the best possible operation of your machine, it is necessary to keep the essential parts clean at all times. Using a small brush, remove the lint that accumulates in the shuttle area and Fig. 1 around the feed dogs. Fig. 2 Parts of the Shuttle _, , Assembly i ¸ To Clean the Shuttle Area' 1. This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread.
OILING PLATE UNDER Remove the indicated. To remove plate. OILING Tilt machine top TOP cover top cover COVER plate plate, and unscrew PLATE swing the AND face cover plate two bolts on the top cover UNDERSIDE head back IN FACE to oil points .indicated below.
PARTS LIST 2 5 6 9 10 7 8 11 12 15 16 o 13 17 14
PARTS LIST All listed parts Simpsons-Sears herein WHEN ORDERING INFORMATION: 1. PART NUMBER 3. MODEL plate. may Limited NUMBER (See Section be ordered store or service REPAIR from PARTS, Pan No. 1 2 3 4 135 214203 231008 200878 5 6 7 8 9 9363 6873 6757 214383 *6740 "6741 *6742 *6743 *67214 *6746 1939 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 6797 *6862 6510 47 214381 3015 3016 Sears, ALWAYS GIVE 2. shown on the nomenclature Roebuck and Co. 4.
SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any Sears Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck and Co. or Simpsons-Sears Limited Stores. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit. The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the front side of bedplate of your Sewing Machine. See Section 1, Page 2 for location.