Kenmore INSTRUCTIONS ZIG • ZAG SEWING MACHINE MODEL 1430/1431/1625/1641/1940/1941 59982
TABLE OF CONTENTS .............................................. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Identifying Parts ................................................. Installing Machine ............................................... Converting to Free-arm Sewing ................................ Winding the Bobbin ............................................... Threading the Bobbin Case ...................................... Threading of Top Thread ........................................
_1. _KNOWING YOUR MACHINE _ FRONT VIEW @ @ @ @ @ @ @ ®.
BACK VIEW (Model 1430, 1940) !625, ! 1641, 19412 only) (-_odel 19412 only) (Flat-bed type) 3
INSTALLING MACHINE (Free-armtype) 1. To install the machine in cabinet, position machine head on cabinet platform so that holes on bottom of machine match those on boards. Insert washers and screws and tighten into place. (Fig. 1) 2. A separate base and cover is available to carry the machine when needed. The base must be removed when machine is used. To install machine in carrying case, set machine into base, with word FRONT in base facing you. (Fig.
INSTALLING MACHINE (Flat bed type) 1. Loosen the two hinge screws under holes in the rear edge of the machine bed. 2. Raise hinge pins in the cabinet or case. Slip machine head onto pins. 3. Tighten hinge screws securely. 4, Push the speed control plug onto three-prong connector under the bed plate. Lower machine head to front cabinet flap, g 6, Plug machine cord into any 110-120 volt wall outlet. Turn on power by pushing light and power switch. Spool pins are packed in accessory box.
CONVERTING TO FREE-ARM ° Remove the base from the machine by pushing the release button (if applicable) and pulling the base to the left. (Fig. 1, 2) SEWING 2. To replace the base, simply slide it along the free arm to its original position. (Fig. 1) Note: Base cannot replaced closed.
WINDING , , THE BOBBIN bobbin winder latch against until it clicks, Holding onto thread, start machine. When is slightly filled, snip off thread. Release clutch by pulling hand wheel or turning clutch knob toward you as shown in Fig. 1. Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as shown. 3. Pull end of thread through bobbin as shown. 4. Place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin. Push hole in 5. 6.
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE 1. Remove base front cover by pushing the release button on the left side. Open the shuttle cover. 2. Raise needle to its highest position by rotating hand wheel toward you. 3. To remove bobbin case from shut- tle, pull open latch of bobbin 4. Pull bobbin shuttle. case straight case. out of 5. Insert bobbin into bobbin case making sure thread is coming bobbin as shown. 6. Pull thread through shown. 7.
THREADING OF TOP THREAD Place thread on spool pin as shown with thread coming from the back of the spool. Draw thread through the top thread guide. Holding the spool stationary with right hand, pull the end of the thread between the tension discs as shown. Pull the spring wire loop up and past the top hook until the thread can be slipped into hook (See Fig. 2). When the thread is released, the spring wire loop will return to position (Fig. 3) with thread in proper place.
ADJUSTING TOP TENSIONS Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates your top thread tension. It consists of discs between which the thread passes. The pressure on these discs is regulated by turning the dial. The higher the number, the tighter the tension. There are many reasons for having to reset your tension. The best tension for one fabric may not be correct for another.
ADJUSTING Bobbin tension tension. BOBBIN requires TENSIONS adjusting less frequently than the upper thread If the stitch is satisfactory but the seam is puckered, it may be necessary to loosen the tension on both the top and bottom threads. Be sure to balance them as indicated on Page 10. When adjusting the tension on the bobbin case, make slight adjustments a screwdriver. with DECREASE TENSION _. Turn Counter Clockwise. INCREASE TENSION Turn Clockwise.
CHECKING TENSIONS The easiest way to check tensions is to sew a medium zig zag stitch on the fabric you will be using. Use the appropriate type of thread and needle. Use different colors of thread on the bobbin and upper spool. Sew a line of zig zag stitches top of the fabric.
STITCH WIDTH CONTROL This control regulates the width of the stitch you select. THE HIGHER THE NUMBER*THE WIDER THE STITCH. You may vary your zigzag stitch width by adjusting this control to the setting you desire. This control must be on Red Dot in order to do straight stitching. Turn only the outer rim of this control to set the stitch width. The center of the control dials the special stitches the machine is capable of sewing.
REVERSE STITCH CONTROL': It is best to begin and end seams with a few stitches taken in reverse, This is called back tacking. Back tacking fastens the ends of the seams firmly and preventsrave!ing. _ : • _ :_: When reverse stitching is needed, turn the control clockwise and: hold_ there dur!ng sewing, The fabric w!ll..immediately sta[t feeding backwards and seam will be fastened .....
SPECIAL STITCH DIAL There are certain types of utility stitches you will use often in your home sewing. This control enables you to just dial the stitch you need for the task at hand. All stitches printed in red on the dial must be sewn with the Special Modifier set at the Red Dot. Stitch To make the stitches printed in white on this dial, the Special Stitch Modifier must be set at the White Dot. THE RED DOT SETTING The setting illustrated above is the one used for most of your stitching.
BLIND STITCH AND OVERCAST STRETCH STITCH "V"V" _ Blind hems are made by using the setting shown above with the Stitch Modifier set on the Red Dot. When the Modifier is set on the White Dot, overcast stretch stitching is made. SPECIAL MENDING STITCH AND SMOCKING STRETCH '"'_ '_tVY_00_ You will find that much of your sewing is in the mending category. For this reason you have been provided with a stitch for the repair of tears.
OTHER ADJUSTMENTS OF MACHINE IN SEWING In addition to the obvious controls of your machine, there are other small regulators and controls to aid you in using your sewing machine. PRESSURE Push down REGULATOR the outer ring of the pressure regulator. This will release the pressure on the presser foot. (See above). To-increase the pressure, push down inner pin until a suitable pressure is obtained.
FEED DOG CONTROL There are a few times when you want to control the feeding of the fabric yourself. Remove the base cover from the base. Pull down the feed dog control or turn to the left as shown in Fig. 1. The feed dogs will drop. You may then determine the movement of the fabric yourself. For most of your stitching, the feed dog control should be in the up position. Whenever you raise or lower the feed dogs, be sure to have the presser foot in the up position.
NEEDLE PLATE INSERTS (Free-arm type) You are provided inserts: with two needle plate A. Needle plate with wide oval hole for all zigzag stitching. B. Needle plate with round hole for regular straight stitching and straight stretch stitch sewing. CHANGING INSERTS NEEDLE PLATE 1. Raise needle to its highest and raise presser foot. 2. Swing position shuttle cover open. 3. Push a spring under the plate as shown to release the needle plate insert. 4.
MULTI PURPOSE NEEDLE PLATE (Flat-bed type) This multi purpose needle plate provides a small round hole for straight stitching and a wide oval hole for zig zag and decorative stitching. i CHANGINGMULTI PURPOSE NEEDLE PLATE 1. Raise needle to its highest position and raise presser foot. 2. Open hand hole cover plate. 1 * . Remove multi purpose needle plate by placing thumb under edge of plate and lifting it up and out. Reverse and reposition the needle plate as shown.
ACCESSORIES NEEDLES Use KENMORE needles. The size of the needle should conform with the size of the thread and both should be suitable to the fabric (See next page). Never use a bent needle or one with a blunt point. Fig. 1. shows you the exact length of your needle. Be sure you never use one in your machine that is not this exact length. You will find among your accessories "Q NEZI_LES",.with blue shanks.
NEEDLE, THREAD O r) AND FABRIC CHART
PRESSER SUPER-HIGH FEET BAR TYPE Simply drop the presser foot lock and slip the foot away from the presser bar. To aid you in the placement of the presser foot, the presser foot lever can raise the foot beyond the normal "'up" position. After the foot is placed on the presser bar, lift the lock as high as it will go to hold the foot securely. SNAP-ON TYPE Raise the presser bar to its highest position by lifting the presser foot lever.
BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT You will find the following your Attachment Box: parts in 1. Cover Plate with pinion gear in the center. 1 Buttonhole adapter to be used instead of base cover When buttonhole attachment is used. (Free-arm type only). 3. A set of 2 templates is furnished with each attachment. Each template is marked showing the type and length of each buttonhole. = Desired size of buttonhole is select- ed by turning template advance knob.
Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew: Test the needle - it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point, It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently.
GARMENT CONSTRUCTION STITCHES STRAIGHT .... STITCHING Set your machine just as shown in the illustration in order to straight stitch. it is important each dial have the following settings. SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial . wwa_--_ Stitch Width Control - Red Dot Stitch Length Control - 12 to 6 Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot Straight Stitch Foot Straight Stitch Needle Plate You will find in garment construction sewing - temporary and permanent. that you are doing two types of 1.
TURNING A SQUARE CORNER To turn a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge, stop stitching with the needle tip piercing the fabric, when reaching the cornering guide as shown. Raise the presser foot, turn fabric. New stitching line will align with 5/8" seam guide on side of needle plate. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in new direction.
STRETCH STITCHING The stitches shown below are all for use with stretch and knit fabrics. are special stitches built in to the machine I\I ,,,> \/ • k /\/ \/\ /\/ for your quick selection. Straight Stretch Rick _ Rack Stretch Smocking Stretch Elastic Stretch Overcast Stretch 6. Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch \/\ /\/ % 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. These J% (I)®®®®® STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - v_l_i_ Stitch Width Control- Red Dot Stitch Length Control - 6 .....
RICK-RACK STRETCH STITCHING .... SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - wN_=-" Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4 •Stitch Length Control - 6 Special Stitch Modifier - White Dot Zigzag Presser Foot Zigzag Needle Plate Use this special stitch for al!-purpose heavy duty sewing of stretch fabrics: Sew as you do a 'regular plain zigzag seam. The machine will make triple lock stitchesback and forth of a fixed stitch length, to give the stretch to seam, SMOCKING STRETCH STITCHING SETTINGS Step 1.
OVERCAST STITCHING STRETCH .......... SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial. "VV WW Stitch Width Control - 4 Stitch Length Control - 6 Special Stitch Modifier. White Dot Zigzag Presser Foot Zigzag Needle Plate This is the same type of stitch used by the garment industry in making sportswear. It is used for seams of 3/8" to 1/4"', The seam is formed and finished in one operation. It must be used when you are making swimwear, ski pants and other garments that require stretch. Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.
After the basic construction of your garment is finished, there are still many finishing touches to be done. To aid your completion of your garment, the Kenmore has been designed to do the following tasks that formerly BUTTONHOLE had to be done by hand. MAKING (Model 1625 only) SETTINGS Special Stitch Dia!- w_]-.--Stitch Width Control - 1 to 1_ Stitch Length Control- 12 Buttonhole Control - F Special Stitch Modifier- Red Dot Bottonhole Foot Zigzag Presser Foot Zigzag Needle Plate .
3. Turn the control to "R" stitching _ back to the beginning of the buttonhole. _The speed with which the control is turned determines the number of stitches at the end of the buttonhole_ The slowerthe control is turned while sewing, the more stitches foimed. ....... 4. Turn the control back to F to finish buttonhole. Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you pian to use. Try the buttonhole with the button you will use.
BUTTONHOLE MAKING Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. Try the buttonhole with the button you will use. Use an interfacing between the layers of fabric - tissue paper can be used and torn away after the stitching. For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your top tension slightly and use a wider stitch w{dth setting. SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - w_-_-=.
4. Pull guide plate all the way forward so that guide pin is at S. This will enable you to start at one end of the buttonhole. Drop guide plate into place over gear on cover plate. _4 .. . , , , o •Fig. 5 34 Pick up bobbin thread through guide plate by turning hand wheel and drawing thread to back of machine. Place fabric between presser foot and guide plate. Line up edge of fabric with marked indentation on guide. See Fig, 4.
BLIND HEMMING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - WWW Stitch Width Control - 2 to 3 Stitch Length Control - 12 to 8 Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot Zigzag Presser Foot or Edgestitcher if available Zigzag Needle Plate 1. Finish edge of hem anyway you desire. Turn up hem appropriate width. (Fig, 1) 2. Fold garment away from hem leaving 1/8" of hem edge extending: (Fig. 2) 3.
SATIN STITCHING °4 o SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial . w_l_= Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4 Stitch Length Control - Red Zone Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot Satin Stitch Foot Zigzag Needle Plate Closely spaced zigzag stitches are ca|led satin stitches. This is an attractive stitch used for appliqueing, monogramming, buttonhole making. Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the tension of the top thread slightly. The wider the stitch you make, the looser the tension should be.
ZIPPER APPLICATION SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - w_l_..=Stitch Width Control - Red Dot Stitch Length Control - 12 to 10 Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot Zipper Foot Straight Stitch Needle Plate REGULAR ZIPPER The foot is adjustable for use on the right or left side of the needle when sewing the regular type of zipper. Adjust the foot so the needle clears the side notch on the foot. See Fig. 1. Carefully follow directions the zipper package.
MENDING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial -.V_._ Stitch Width Control - 4 Stitch Length Control - Red Zone Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot Zigzag Presser Foot Zigzag Needle Plate To repair a straight or three-cornered tear, position the tear under the needle in such a waythat the stitching catches both sides of the tear. When mending a three-cornered tear, stitch from each end to the center. It is well to use a piece of fabric under the tear for reinforcement. DARNING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial. ww_[]_.
BUTTON SEWING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - ww_=-._ Feed Dogs - Down Zigzag Presser Foot Zigzag Needle Plate 1. Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold the button securely. 2, Turn hand wheel manually until needle point is just above button, 3. Adjust stitch width control so needle will enter left hole of the button. 4, Turn hand wheel again by hand so needle enters second hole. Readjust stitch width if necessary, Stitch a number of times. 5.
FREE-ARM SEWING (Free-arm type only) This sewing machine can be used like a flat bed machine, but easily converts to free arm machine by removing the base. The free arm enables you to sew tubular types of pieces more easily. Just slip the sleeve or pants leg on the free arm as shown above. You will find many uses for this free arm feature such as: 1. Mend elbows and knees of garments more' easily. 2. Sew in sleeves more easily. This is especially true when sewing smaller garments. 3.
3.
m_ • _i _ • ii _z _ _ !ii , _ _i _ i¸ _ i I _
CARING FOR THE MACH NE ................................................................................................ CLEANING AND OILING Fig. 1 Cleaning brush. the feed dogs with a To insure the best possible operation of your machine, it is necessary to keep the essential parts clean at all times. Using a small brush, remove the lint that accumulates in the shuttle area and around the feed dogs. Fig. 2 Parts of the Shuttle To Clean the Shuttle Fig. 1 Assembly Area: 1.
OILING UNDER ARM COVER PLATE Remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head. To remove cover plate, insert a screw driver into the spacing between arm casting and top cover plate and lift the cover plate as illustrated below.
OILING UNDERSIDE (Free_armtype) Tilt maqhine head back and remove bottom underside of machine. To remove bottom (C), (D) and (E) as shown below.
OILING UNDERSIDE Tilt machine head (Flat-bed type) back to oil points indicated on underside of machine. < OILING PLATE IN FACE cOVER Swing hinged face cover plate open and oil points indicated in illustration.
PART LIST 47
PARTS LIST All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears, Simpsons- Sears Limited store or service center. WHEN ORDERING REPAIR INFORMATION : 1. PART NUMBER 3. MODEL NUMBER PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE Roebuck and Co. or THE FOLLOWING 2. PART DESCRIPTION 4. NAME OF ITEM If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling. Ref. No.
SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Sewing Machine, should a need ever' exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any Sears Service Center and most Seam, Roebuck and Co. or Simpsons-Seam Limited Stores. Be sure to provide all pertinent factswhen you call or visit. The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the right side of your Sewing Machine. See page 3 for location.
